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While the COVID era of our lives was pretty crap, it offered me the opportunity to slow down my travel and focus on what was right in front of me. Instead of jetting off to an all-inclusive in Mexico or spending two weeks traipsing around Europe, I was grounded, so to speak. This meant exploring my surroundings, driving instead of flying, and appreciating the outdoors.

I’ve taken three national park road trips, so I’m basically an expert at this point. Keep reading to learn how to plan a national park road trip that is equal parts epic and manageable.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps, service can be spotty.
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need (trust me).
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.

Park Access

 Don’t forget that entry to most national parks for four people in one car is about $30. If you plan on visiting more than one park or staying multiple days, you should absolutely opt for the annual pass.

The America the Beautiful Pass costs $80, lasts an entire year, and gives you unlimited access to national parks across the United States. It has paid dividends for me time and time again.

My Road Trips

What was originally supposed to be a trip to Patagonia turned into a two-week American Southwest national park road trip (read about it all here). We started in Las Vegas and visited the following parks (you can find my complete travel guides to some of these below):

• Death Valley National Park
• Grand Canyon National Park
• Mesa Verde National Park
• Capitol Reef National Park
• Arches National Park
• Canyonlands National Park

Four girls, countless miles driven, dozens of miles hiked, one bonus state park, a photo shoot in the salt flats, and more giggles than I could count.

That spring we continued our exploration with a shorter—but still robust—road trip through Texas (which you can read about here). We flew into El Paso and visited Big Bend National Park, explored the caves at Carlsbad Caverns National Park, climbed the highest peak in Texas at Guadalupe Mountains National Park, had a dance party in the desert at White Sands National Park, and wrapped up the trip at Saguaro National Park seeing the famous cacti.

While not nearly as expansive, I also visited almost every national park in Florida the following year. We flew to Miami and, after soaking in the sun and accidentally feeding my phone to what I now refer to as the sewer crocodiles (a phrase I made up after stepping off a curb and watching my phone slip straight from my hand into a giant sewer drain), we began our park tour.

We started at Everglades National Park, followed it with a slightly comical boat ride through Biscayne National Park, and finished the adventure with a ferry ride to Dry Tortugas National Park.

Consider this my résumé for how to plan a national park road trip. Now let me help you plan yours.

Hopes & Dreams

I think the most important step when figuring out how to plan a national park road trip is deciding what your hopes and dreams are. This is a phrase my best friend and I use constantly when planning trips. It’s how we frame everything we want to see, eat, accomplish, or experience.

Yes, I’ve had friends roll their eyes when I ask the question. But it genuinely captures what matters: what do you want to get out of this trip, and how do we design an itinerary that makes that happen?

Do you want to see the bottom of the Grand Canyon? Visit the most remote national park in the U.S.? Start checking parks off a list in a quest to visit them all? Are you craving beautiful scenic drives or rugged multi-day hikes? Something close to a city, or completely off the grid?

The beauty of national parks is that there is truly an experience for everyone. Once you know what you want, it becomes much easier to start shaping the trip.

Time

The next question when planning a national park road trip is how much time you actually have.

Are you renting a van for a month and planning to explore every nook and cranny? Or do you have a long weekend where you want to see as much of one park as possible? Can you fly to a starting point, or do you need to begin driving from where you live?

Once you’ve chosen your starting point, you also need to decide how much time you’re comfortable spending in the car each day. Is five hours too much? Would you rather visit fewer parks but spend less time driving? Or are you totally fine with a longer drive if it means seeing something incredible?

Travel time between parks is important, but so is the commute once you’re there, which we’ll talk about more later.

I’ve visited three national parks in three days, I’ve seen everything I wanted in one park in a single day, and also felt like I could easily spend more time somewhere like Arches even after multiple visits. It really comes down to personal preference, PTO, budget, and your tolerance for long drives.

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Proximity

Every good road trip is built on proximity. You probably aren’t going to visit Dry Tortugas in the Florida Keys and then swing over to Zion National Park on the same trip.

Yes, this sounds obvious, but choosing parks close to each other is how you maximize a national park road trip. Even visiting all the national parks in Florida still requires several hours of driving.

When you’re deciding which parks to visit together, think about regional clusters. A few ideas to get you started:

• Alaska parks
• Florida parks: Everglades, Dry Tortugas, Biscayne
• Utah parks: Zion, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, Arches
• Northern California parks: Redwood, Kings Canyon, Sequoia
• Pacific Northwest parks: Crater Lake, Mount Rainier, Olympic, North Cascades

When to Go

I have a hard time recommending travel outside of spring and fall. In my opinion, those seasons are the sweet spot for exploring almost anywhere and that includes national parks.

My first national park road trip happened in November. It was perfect for the Grand Canyon, where I was hiking in a T-shirt by noon, but I also accidentally smoked us out of our yurt trying to keep warm at night (you can read all about that here).

Timing becomes even more important if you plan on camping or backpacking. Trailheads may be closed due to snow or seasonal conditions. For example, Highway 20 in Washington doesn’t reopen until April or May, which makes visiting North Cascades National Park difficult outside of summer.

While I don’t love traveling during June, July, or August, sometimes you just have to make it work. If that’s the case, avoid places with extreme weather. Visiting Death Valley in July, for example, would be a nightmare.

Camping Accommodations

If you’re feeling adventurous and planning to visit multiple national parks over an extended period, you might consider renting a camper van or motorhome. These can be pricey, but they come with everything you need: a kitchenette, a place to sleep, sometimes even a bathroom and shower.

Traveling this way opens up campground options within the parks themselves.

If you’re starting the road trip from home, you can also bring your own camping gear. This significantly lowers accommodation costs and gives you more flexibility.

One thing to keep in mind with camping is reservations. Some campgrounds take bookings, while others are first-come, first-served. During peak summer season, competition can be intense. Camping in the Pacific Northwest is particularly cutthroat, I’ve learned the hard way that even when you think it won’t be busy, it absolutely will be.

Finally, there is often BLM land available near parks. Around Capitol Reef, for example, there are many free first-come-first-serve camping areas on BLM land. If you go this route, remember to pack everything out, leave no trace, and respect the landscape (a rule we should all be practicing regardless of where we go !!).

Planning Your Stay

If you’re like me and will camp if necessary but still prefer a roof and a bed each night, don’t worry, there are plenty of options.

Towns surrounding national parks often have a surprising number of Airbnbs specifically catering to park visitors. Many even include maps, hiking suggestions, and local restaurant recommendations.

That said, proximity can be tricky.

When visiting North Cascades National Park, we stayed outside the town of Winthrop in a beautiful cabin. It was cozy and scenic, but hiking Cascade Pass required nearly three hours of driving each way, including about an hour on a gravel road leading to the trailhead.

During our trip to Big Bend National Park, we stayed in the town of Alpine and drove an hour just to reach the park entrance each day. From there, reaching hikes like Santa Elena Canyon required even more driving inside the park.

When choosing accommodations, consider the following:

How many days you plan to spend in the park. If you’re just passing through, a longer commute may be fine. If you’re staying several days, it might get old quickly.

• Use Google Maps to estimate drive times, not just to the visitor center, but to the actual hikes you want to do.
• Be honest with yourself about early mornings. Are you really going to wake up at 4 a.m. to drive three hours to a trailhead?
• If you can’t find clear directions online, contact the park’s visitor center. Rangers are some of the most helpful people in the world and are always happy to give advice.
• And finally, AllTrails is your best friend when planning hikes. Trail descriptions, closures, conditions, and trailhead details are all there, which means fewer surprises when you start your drive down that inevitable gravel road.

Activities

Hiking is usually the main activity for me in national parks, but if you’re more adventurous, the options are endless. Rock climbing, cycling, backpacking, canyoneering, remote backcountry hikes, there is truly something for everyone.

If you’re planning to do multiple hikes in one day, read the trail descriptions carefully on AllTrails or the national park website to estimate how long they will realistically take.

For certain activities, you’ll also want to reserve gear ahead of time. For example, if you plan to hike the Narrows in Zion, stop by Zion Outfitters the afternoon before to get fitted for shoes, socks, and waders. They allow early pickup the day before your hike, which lets you start whenever you want instead of waiting for the shop to open.

Add Ons

Don’t miss the chance to explore nearby destinations during your national park road trip. While the parks are the main attraction, you’ll often pass incredible places along the way.

During our Texas road trip we stopped in the quirky art town of Marfa (read all about what to do in Marfa here). On our Southwest road trip we visited Dead Horse Point State Park and hiked there as well. We ended that trip in the Bonneville Salt Flats outside Salt Lake City, where we made some of the most memorable moments of the entire adventure.

Enjoying the journey and what’s along the way is just as important as reaching the summit.

The Bottom Line

National parks are truly one of the greatest treasures in the United States, and I hope everyone gets the chance to visit at least one in their lifetime.

Whether your goal is to check every park off your list or simply see what America has to offer, learning how to plan a national park road trip is absolutely worth the time and effort it takes.

And if you need help planning your national park itinerary, send me an email or slide into my DMs at @updatelater on Instagram.

Happy trails.

The post How to Plan an Epic National Park Road Trip appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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While London is a big draw and the main reason people travel to England, there is so much more to the country than its capital. Don’t get me wrong, I love London, it’s my favorite city in the world and I’d go back anytime. But limiting yourself to the city is such a disservice when the country has so much to offer.

So when you’re dreaming of getting off the Tube and into the countryside, look no further than the Cotswolds. If you are planning a trip to England and want to channel Elizabeth Bennet walking through a muddy field (IYKYK), then keep reading for your complete Cotswolds travel guide.

What is the Cotswolds

The Cotswolds is a region of England lying northwest of London, about two hours away. It includes over 800 acres of pristine villages and landscape and makes up England’s largest AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). You really can’t beat that title and accolade.

This region is defined by the small towns and villages that are full of history, may have some strange names (looking at you, Stow-on-the-Wold), and are identifiable by the distinct honey-colored limestone that makes up most of their buildings. While visiting the area you’ll see sheep-dotted hills, lazy winding rivers, and picturesque viewpoints. The beautiful scenery makes it an incredible place to explore on foot, through the valleys and the hills, getting up close and personal with the surroundings.

In fact, among the many, many walks and hikes available in the Cotswolds, the town of Winchcombe hosts a walking festival every year, and many people opt to try the 100-mile Cotswold Way, which takes you from Bath to the town of Chipping Campden.

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Most importantly, the Cotswolds is where you suspend your disbelief a little bit and just let the place work its magic. Not every destination needs to be busy, packed every minute and exciting in the obvious sense. Sometimes travel means slowing down and embracing the small things around you, like a historic church, a local chocolate shop, or a short jaunt up a hill overlooking the English countryside.

If you are feeling suspicious about whether this is up your alley, check out my post about who should and shouldn’t visit the Cotswolds.

Who Should Go to the Cotswolds

While I personally love the Cotswolds and everything a day in the life of visiting the Cotswolds looks like, I can also recognize that exploring this area of England is not for everyone. So before you download the hype from the internet, let me lay out who exactly would enjoy a trip to the Cotswolds.

You’re okay with seeing all the seasons in one day: if you are looking for a sunny vacation, this isn’t it. England has particularly finicky weather and the Cotswolds is not exempt from that. Even in the summer, the region can have rain and chilly days, so plan accordingly.

You don’t mind a slower vacation: even if you jam-pack your days and try to see everything the Cotswolds has to offer on your trip, you won’t be bustling around like you would in a larger city. Which is actually such a plus. Slow down and take your time to enjoy the small details in the Cotswolds.

You don’t mind driving: while visiting the Cotswolds is doable without a car, if you are trying to get the best bang for your buck, you’ll want to rent a car. I’ve driven on the left a handful of times and it’s really not as confusing as it seems. Check out my guide to all things rental cars here.

You don’t mind that the most exciting thing you may see in a day is a slow-moving creek and a historic church: the Cotswolds is full of history and beauty, but this isn’t the Colosseum or even Big Ben. It’s churches from the 1600s, historic trading posts, and pubs that inspired Tolkien. If that sounds interesting to you, then you’re in the right place.

How Long to Spend in the Cotswolds

If you’re not like me and plotting how you can move to a picturesque village to live out The Holiday while finding your own Jude Law (I say as a happily married gal), then I guess we can talk about time to spend in the Cotswolds.

Your timing depends on a few factors:

• What areas you want to visit
• Where you base yourself, or if you plan to change locations every couple of nights
• What outdoor pursuits you want to accomplish (if any)
• Whether you are depending on train travel or have a car

I’ll tell you what I did to give you an idea. We stayed for one week, with some of those days being Christmas Eve and Christmas. Additionally, we arrived later in the afternoon on the first day. So that really breaks it down to just five full days of exploration, with one of those being Christmas Eve.

In that time, I visited around 13 towns and went on one hike. I had a car and was able to drive myself, which greatly helped my ability to explore.

Itinerary Ideas

If you want to skip ahead and read an in-depth post on Cotswolds itineraries, check out my write-up here that gives detailed ideas on how to spend your time if you have 3, 5 or 7 days to visit the Cotswolds.

One Day

If you don’t have time but still want to dip your toes into visiting the Cotswolds, day trips are absolutely doable. There are a few that leave from London and allow you to see the Cotswolds without the hassle of staying overnight or renting a car.

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2–3 Days

Focus on basing yourself in one region, which could look like this:

• Stay in the south: visit towns like Bath, Lacock, Castle Combe, Tetbury, Stroud, and Cirencester.
• Stay in the east: explore villages like Bibury, Burford, Asthall, Kingham, Charbury, and Chipping Norton.
• Stay in the northwest: stop in places like Winchcombe, Blockley, Moreton-on-the-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and Chipping Campden.

This lets you focus on a smaller area instead of trying to tackle the whole region. If you don’t have a car, this would be a good option. Regional buses are much more manageable this way, and it’s easy to grab a train from London to one of the bigger towns to begin your adventure.

5–7 Days

If you have this much time, I absolutely would recommend renting a car. You’ll be able to adventure throughout the region and dictate your own schedule. We chose Winchcombe as a base, which was great for exploring a lot of the small towns in the northwest of the Cotswolds and only put us about an hour away from the more southern towns like Castle Combe.

Area Overview

Here is a short recap of the regions and why you would want to visit them. Just know that these regions and divisions have all been divided and named by me, so don’t start Googling “Classic Cotswolds.” I mean, you can, but it may not be what you’re looking for.

Classic Cotswolds

This includes the towns you probably imagine when you think of the Cotswolds: Stow-on-the-Wold, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and Bourton-on-the-Water, famous for the River Windrush running through it. These villages are small and all possible to explore on foot.

Don’t miss the mini village in Bourton-on-the-Water, which is a verbatim replica of the actual town. So cool. Otherwise, these towns are separated by minimal driving. If you take a one-day tour from London or Bath, these are some likely stops.

Southern Cotswolds

The southern Cotswolds comprises the towns of Castle Combe, Lacock, and Tetbury. Castle Combe has been named one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds. Don’t miss exploring the gorgeous Castle Combe Manor, view of the town from the river/bridge and end your visit with a stop at Old Stable Tea Rooms.

Lacock is famous for its Abbey, which is not to be missed, as multiple scenes from Harry Potter were filmed in the Abbey and village. Finally, Tetbury is an antique lover’s paradise.

Eastern-ish Cotswolds

Visiting the west allows you to explore Burford, Cirencester, Bibury, and Asthall. Cirencester is one of the larger towns in the Cotswolds and has a beautiful church, the Church of St. John the Baptist, that you can’t help but gawk over.

Burford is said to be the gateway to the Cotswolds and was home to the wool trade in the olden days. While you may not spend a ton of time there after walking up Burford Hill, you will want to stay longer in Asthall, which is quite tranquil and home to an impressive Roman church from the 12th century.

Finally, don’t miss a visit to Arlington Row in Bibury, which is home to some of the most famous cottages in the Cotswolds.

Stroud & Golden Valley

In the west side of the Cotswolds you’ll find Stroud and the Golden Valley. Stroud has some of the best walking in the Cotswolds over its hilly terrain. This is where you really get off the beaten path, away from the crowds in the classic Cotswolds towns.

The nearby town of Painswick is peaceful and refined. Bonus points in this area are its proximity to the towns of Gloucester, Cirencester, and Cheltenham.

North Oxfordshire

In the North Oxfordshire region of the Cotswolds you’ll find Chipping Norton, Charlbury, and Kingham, to name a few. There are a number of great pubs in Charlbury, and Kingham has great access to London via train.

But a lot of the fun things to see and do in the North Oxfordshire area are actually outside of the main villages. Diddly Squat Farm Shop from the well-known show Clarkson’s Farm is in North Oxfordshire, as is Daylesford Farm. You could spend a day at Daylesford shopping their farm store and home goods, or explore the farm and stay for a meal at one of their restaurants.

Northern Gateway

At the northern edge of the Cotswolds you’ll find Chipping Campden, Blockley, and Moreton-in-Marsh. Chipping Campden is the well-known starting location of the Cotswold Way 100-mile walk through the countryside. But strolling through the town is just as fun as getting out into the grassy hills.

Full of sweet little shops, a historic church, and a trading post, you can easily spend a day or afternoon exploring the town. Moreton-in-Marsh hosts a robust market every Tuesday, but don’t miss having a pint at the Bell Inn, which was Tolkien’s inspiration for the Prancing Pony in The Lord of the Rings.

Broadway Hills

Finally, the Broadway Hills include the towns of Broadway, Stanton, and Snowshill. With sweeping views overlooking the entire AONB region, you won’t be disappointed.

Make sure to visit Broadway Tower for its history, incredible views, and the on-site deer park, which makes it great for kids. While you can walk through Snowshill in about five minutes, it’s worth swinging by to see its historic manor. Escape to the fairytale village of Stanton with its timbered buildings and typical limestone manors.

Getting Around

The best way to get around the Cotswolds, without a doubt, is by having a car. The freedom of a car will allow you to access not only the towns and villages of this AONB region, but also restaurants, sights, and unique experiences outside of them. Not every site to see sits in the middle of town. Getting out of the villages is necessary for a true Cotswold experience.

We ate at some amazing pubs while in the Cotswolds, but most of them sat outside of the villages, in those in-between spots down winding roads between towns.

I truly believe that anyone with a bit of confidence can rent a car and drive on the left. I’ve driven on the coast of England, through the Cotswolds, and down crazy “two-way” roads in Ireland where you are almost kissing a brick wall as you let people pass. It isn’t for the faint of heart, but it is absolutely worth the effort. Read more on driving abroad here.

Public Transport

Fear not, if driving isn’t doable for you, the public transport access to the Cotswolds gets better and more creative as time goes on.

Trains

You can easily take the train from London to one of these larger hubs to connect to your time in the Cotswolds:

• Bath
• Charlbury
• Cheltenham
• Chippenham
• Evesham*
• Gloucester*
• Hanborough*
• Honeybourne*
• Kemble
• Moreton-in-Marsh
• Oxford*
• Stratford-upon-Avon*
• Stroud
• Swindon*
• Ashchurch*
• Cam & Dursley*

The starred train stops are on the outer edges of the Cotswolds but have public transport access to nearby towns. For example, if you take the train to Honeybourne, you will be just outside of Chipping Campden, which is a great place to start your journey.

Bus

Once you have accessed the Cotswolds via train, it’s time to load onto a bus. Some things to be wary of when taking a bus through the Cotswolds:

• There are nine different companies that serve the Cotswolds region.
• Bus service wraps up around 6 p.m. most days, not including Sundays and public holidays, which have their own schedules or sometimes nonexistent service.
• Busy bus routes may have several buses throughout the day, but less common routes may only have two buses a day.
• You are completely beholden to the bus timetables.

Bus travel is absolutely doable and relaxing when you get the hang of it. But it involves a lot of pre-planning of routes and sticking to a schedule. If you miss the bus back to your home base and it was the last of the day, a taxi may end up setting you back a bit of money.

The main bus companies are Stagecoach and Pulham’s Coaches, so start there when it comes to planning your route.

Taxi, The Robin & The Cotswolds Pass

Because the bus routes end earlier than most would like throughout the week, you can reserve a taxi if you are wanting to have dinner out of town or in a neighboring town. Reserving in advance will ease your mind about making sure you get back to your home base after a nice pub meal.

The Robin is a new and amazing little service in the Cotswolds. It is a combination of a taxi and bus that provides on-demand mini-bus rides to lesser-known spots throughout the region. The Robin is how you get to more rural villages that traditional buses don’t serve.

There is no regular timetable for this service. Instead, it creates a route based on what people are looking to do. You can book up to two weeks in advance via their website or phone, or up to the hour before you want to depart.

You can only book The Robin by region, so if you want to go from Chipping Campden down to Tetbury, that isn’t possible on a single Robin mini-bus. Instead, you would have to find a common destination where the services connect and then change to another bus.

The Robin is also great for walkers. If you are heading out on a long trek and don’t want to make the return walk, you could opt for a ride on The Robin to get back to your home base, or even back to where you parked if you rented a car.

Safety

While the Cotswolds are safer than a lot of big cities, being a tourist still paints a bit of a target on your back. Keep an eye out for anyone getting too close to you or acting suspiciously. Make sure your personal belongings are secured and, if you are driving, that anything important in the car is tucked away in the trunk.

Here are the UK emergency numbers just in case:

• EU emergency number: 112
• UK emergency number: 999
• Non-emergency line: 101
• Urgent medical problem and need advice: 111
• Or visit 111.nhs.uk

What’s Actually Worth Seeing

I really have nothing negative to say about the Cotswolds. It absolutely caters to one part of my travel style, and that’s the slow part. Strolling through small villages, learning the history of seemingly inconspicuous sites that end up being significant and centuries old, popping into unique shops full of handmade products where the owner is the one ringing you up and giving genuine thanks for supporting their small business and having too many coffees, teas, pastries, and sweets throughout the day because each bakery deserves a stop-in. Walking through muddy fields, waving to sheep, and getting amazing views under that overcast lighting. That, to me, is travel magic.

Don’t get me wrong, I love beach lounging, exploring busy cities, and seeing famous sights, but this is the other side of travel that I adore.

With that said, if you are coming to the Cotswolds to be stunned, wowed, and mesmerized by the sights, I’d recommend going somewhere else. I visited 13 towns during my five days in the Cotswolds and while I enjoyed every minute, and each place has something different to offer, I can see how it may get redundant for other people.

If I had to dumb it down, each town has generallllyyyyyy the same things: a historic church, a few other historic buildings like trading posts, manors, or homes of famous people, some cafés, restaurants, and shops. I say this kind of hating myself for saying it that way. But I also want to be realistic.

So instead of saying you absolutely need to go see one hyper-specific thing, I’m going to create an essential Cotswolds visiting guide. Here are the things you absolutely have to do, and you get to choose in which towns you do them based on what interests you most.

Essential Cotswolds Experiences

• A historic church: like St. John’s the Baptist in Cirencester, St. James Church in Chipping Campden, or St. Mary’s Church in Chipping Norton.
• A countryside walk or hike: like the Bourton-on-the-Water to Stow-on-the-Wold circular, the Lower Slaughter and Upper Slaughter loop, or the Castle Combe and Nettleton circular. While not necessary, getting a little muddy is part of the fun.
• A historic manor, building, or sight: Blenheim Palace, Sudeley Castle in Winchcombe, Lacock Abbey in Lacock, or the Manor House in Castle Combe.
• A pub lunch, dinner, or pint: The Horse & Groom outside Bourton-on-the-Hill, the Kingham Plough in Kingham, The Potting Shed in Malmesbury, or The Farmer’s Dog in Asthall.
• Coffee, tea, and pastries at a bakery: Bakery on the Water in Bourton-on-the-Water, Mor in Chipping Norton, or Otis & Belle in Cheltenham.
• Window shopping or actual shopping: all the towns have their own little boutique-filled streets, but my favorite shopping was in Burford and Broadway.

If you hit one thing from each category, I’d say you’ve had a true Cotswolds experience.

Dining

You can’t visit the Cotswolds, or even England for that matter without a stop at the pub. This is an English requisite and they actually won’t stamp your passport without proof you drank a pint (NA included!).

The Cotswolds has some of the best pubs in England, in my personal opinion, and you can find one that caters to whatever you’re feeling that day. Fine dining? Check. Cozy seats and a fire in the grate? Check. Lively atmosphere? Check. Locals approved? Absolutely check.

While each town has a pub, some of the best ones are tucked on the narrow winding roads between the villages. Here are some of the best, some personally tested, pubs in the Cotswolds to add to your list.

• The Fox Inn: Moreton-in-Marsh
• The Double Red Duke: Clanfield
• The Bull: Charlbury
• The Swan: Swineford
• The Fox: Oddington
• The Wild Rabbit: Kingham
• The Chequers: Churchill
• The Bell Inn: Langford
• Eight Bells: Chipping Campden
• The Lion Inn: Winchcombe
• Horse & Groom: Bourton-on-the-Hill

If the pub is not your thing, well, don’t go to the Cotswolds. KIDDING.

In all seriousness, there are plenty of restaurants around the area to get you by when you eventually get sick of mashed potatoes, if that is even possible. Larger cities like Cheltenham and Cirencester have some great Indian food I wish I had more time to try. So don’t be discouraged, but if you’re not huge on pubs, try staying in one of these larger cities for more variety and options.

And if you are really committed make sure to book a Sunday Roast at one of the pubs. Chicken, beef, roasted veg, multiple types of potatoes and of course, Yorkshire pudding. Not to be confused with pudding (meaning dessert, as the Brits say), these are fluffy, airy, gravy holding dinner rolls meets popovers. I’m drooling just thinking about them.

When to Visit

Every time I write a “what to know before you go” post, I get stuck on when to go because I always write the same thing: spring and fall, spring and fall. But alas, I differ today.

I actually think the best time to visit the Cotswolds is… anytime.

If you know English weather, you know it can be quite fickle, and I think there are positives and negatives to visiting any time of year. I wouldn’t have initially opted for a December visit, but it was so magical and perfect that now I can’t imagine going in the summer. Here is a quick breakdown:

Fall: enjoy the beautiful foliage, making the towns somehow even more picturesque than they already are. Crowds will be lower and you may have a mix of sun and rain, but it won’t be too cold yet.

Winter: brace yourself for biting wind and bring a scarf and hat. Yes, it’s cold, but there can still be a decent amount of sun. I had only sprinkles on one or two days I was there in December. Crowds are mixed because locals and Brits are home for the holidays, so to speak, and tourists are also present for the Christmas magic.

Spring: this is probably the time I would least recommend coming. The rain will be the heaviest, and while the flowers blooming in later spring are delightful, the weather may be too unpredictable. But if you spend time getting muddy in the fields, you may see them dotted with lambs.

Summer: this is the obvious crowd-pleaser. Yes, crowds will be the heaviest, but having lots of sunshine makes walking through the countryside and along the Cotswold Way super dreamy. Fair warning though, very few places will have air conditioning, and while 75 may not feel hot in Miami, it does feel stressfully warm in England.

The TLDR is just go to the Cotswolds in whatever time of year you can. You won’t regret it.

The Bottom Line

Can you tell I am absolutely in love with this place? While I am an England apologist and have few negative things to say, I do think I’ve outlined why the Cotswolds deserve their hype. There is a reason Cameron Diaz decided to stay forever, and yes, it was Jude Law, but it was also very much the beautiful region of the Cotswolds.

Ta-ta for now!

The post Cotswolds Travel Guide: Everything to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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If you’re like me, fully committed to all things English and always happy to return to London, you’ve probably considered exploring the countryside at some point. If the Cotswolds haven’t made your list yet, they should. Let this be your introduction, and a little push, to start planning a trip to one of England’s most charming regions.

The Cotswolds stretches over 800 square miles and includes a myriad of towns and villages to visit. In between those towns are historic pubs, countryside trails to explore, and beautiful sites to see. So how do you see it all? How long should you plan for your visit? Well, I’m here to share the perfect 3, 5, and 7 day Cotswolds itinerary.

And if you’re wondering whether the Cotswolds are worth a visit at all, check out my post about why they may or may not be for you here.

What is the Cotswolds

What are the Cotswolds, you may ask? The Cotswolds is a rural region of rolling hills and historic villages in southwest England, known for its honey-colored stone cottages, countryside walks, and traditional market towns. You may have heard of some of the more unique villages, like Stow-on-the-Wold or Bourton-on-the-Water.

Before you start planning your trip to the Cotswolds and deciding how long to spend in this gorgeous area, I recommend reading my Cotswolds: What to Know Before You Go guide. There I break down the main regions, towns, and villages to help give you an idea of what to do and see while visiting.

How to Plan Your Cotswold Itinerary

There are a few factors to consider when planning your trip to the Cotswolds.

Transportation

The Cotswolds is best and most easily explored by car. Because some of the towns are more rural, it is simply easier to have a car to access them. That is not to say you can’t accomplish a trip to the English countryside without one. The Cotswolds’ public transportation gets better every year, and many of the towns are served by train from London. So if you don’t want to rent a car, you can absolutely manage with public transport and by being detail-oriented with your schedule.

Town vs Outdoor Time

One of the best things to do in the Cotswolds is go walking. Yes, walking. Strolling through sheep-dotted fields, climbing hills with incredible views over the region, and following historic trails that lead you to picturesque towns. Walking is so entrenched in the culture of the Cotswolds that there is a walking festival every spring that takes place in the town of Winchcombe.

If you are visiting the Cotswolds for the wonderful walking and hiking, you’ll likely spend a bit less time exploring the villages. And vice versa, if hiking isn’t really your thing, you’ll have plenty of time to poke around the towns.

Main Sights vs Local Gems

I think some of the best sights are the more low-key ones you may not have heard of. The town of Lacock, for example. It’s not on many radars, it sits quite far south, and it’s not super close to a lot of other spots. But it’s home to Lacock Abbey, which is iconic in its own right and grows infinitely cooler when you find out they filmed Harry Potter there.

Venture into town and you’ll see locals with honor-system farm stands outside their homes, selling everything from pickled eggs to friendship bracelets with a little tin nearby to collect cash. Plus, a house in Lacock was used as Harry’s parents’ home in Godric’s Hollow. So yes, did I love Lacock because of its Harry Potter references? Absolutely. Was it worth exploring even without that knowledge? One hundred percent.

If you are more interested in sticking to the better-known towns like Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, or larger towns like Cirencester and Cheltenham, you don’t need a ton of time or even necessarily a car. But if you are hoping to dive into the lesser-known spots, the time and transportation needs do start to add up.

Homebase

Where you choose to make your home base can greatly affect how much time you need to spend in the Cotswolds. If you’re in love with the idea of staying at The Manor House in Castle Combe, one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds, then you’ll likely be spending a lot of time in the car driving north to explore other parts of the region.

So it really comes down to how you want to travel: do you want to settle into one town, get to know it, and embrace the local rhythm? Or use your home base as a jumping-off point to explore more of the region?

3 Day Cotswolds Itinerary

This is the minimum amount of time I would spend in the Cotswolds and is perfect for those using public transportation. In a 3 day Cotswolds itinerary, you’re going to focus on seeing the main sights, having time for one or two countryside walks, and enjoying a couple of great pubs.

• Home base: Stow-on-the-Wold
• Best for: first-time visitors
• Driving time: max 1 hour per day

Day 1

Either drive or take the train to Moreton-in-Marsh before transferring to the 801 bus for about 25 minutes to get to your home base of Stow-on-the-Wold.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon exploring your home base. If you are in need of lunch, look no further than Cotswold Baguettes, which are delicious and won’t slow you down.

There is a lot to see and do in Stow-on-the-Wold. Head first to St. Edward’s Church and have a look around the property and a peek inside the historic church. Don’t miss a photo op at the famous yew-tree door, which is said to have inspired Tolkien’s Doors of Durin in Moria. Pop around to see the historic market area and the Golden Triangle.

Evening

Wander into some of the shops like Cotswold Cheese Company or Cotswold Chocolate. If you are into art, there are a few galleries to explore as well. For a pre-dinner drink, head into Off the Square and grab a beer from the case or on tap. Your dinner stop should be The Porch House, the oldest pub in Britain, which is just rude to skip if you’re already there.

Day 2

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Stow Town Coffee before adventuring to your next town. Once you’re properly caffeinated, head to Lower Slaughter, about a five-minute drive away.

The Slaughters are very small villages, but they are absurdly quaint. Make sure to walk down Copsehill Road, which is often called one of the most romantic streets in Britain. Visit the church and old cemetery, and make sure to stop at the picturesque old mill.

Walk one mile to Upper Slaughter, about 20 minutes. There isn’t a ton to see here, but Lords of the Manor is a sight to behold. I also recommend walking down the hill toward the river to see some gorgeous houses, if that is your thing. Me? I am always picturing myself living in wildly impractical but beautiful places like this.

Afternoon

After your one-mile return walk back to Lower Slaughter, have lunch at The Slaughters Country Inn or continue on for more options in Bourton-on-the-Water.

If you decide to postpone your meal just a little longer, try The Mousetrap Inn for a pub lunch or grab some pasties at the Cornish Bakery for something lighter.

When you’re done, it’s time to explore Bourton-on-the-Water, about a four-minute drive away. Enjoy wandering through the village and make sure to stop at Bakery on the Water, stroll along the River Windrush, and see the 1/9th-size replica of the village at the Model Village. It is delightfully weird and charming.

Evening

When you’re ready to turn back, head toward Stow-on-the-Wold, about 10 minutes away. If you want to have dinner outside of Stow, head to The Fox in Oddington, which is only about a five-minute drive out of town. Otherwise, The Queen’s Head or D’Ambrosi are great options for dinner.

If you are feeling energized and want to spend more time walking in the countryside, this entire day is doable on foot, albeit a bit long. Start in Stow-on-the-Wold and walk to Upper Slaughter, about 3-ish miles. Then walk the mile to Lower Slaughter. After that, continue to Bourton-on-the-Water, about 1.5 miles. From there, you can opt for the V12 bus, about 15 minutes, or the 801 bus, about 20 minutes, back to Stow-on-the-Wold. Or continue the additional three miles and return on foot if you are feeling particularly outdoorsy.

Day 3

Start your day with a proper English breakfast at The Hive in Stow-on-the-Wold. After that, head out to Chipping Norton, about 17 minutes away. On your way, stop at the historic Chastleton House, which sits between Moreton-in-Marsh and Chipping Norton.

Explore Chipping Norton. If you want a more tranquil day, spend a few hours at the lido or visit nearby Soho Farmhouse. But if you’re feeling more adventurous, stroll through town, stopping by the historic theater and the Chipping Norton Museum of Local History. Once you’ve had your fill, move on to Daylesford Farm.

Afternoon

Shop around and have lunch at one of the restaurants at Daylesford Farm, about 15 minutes away. There is a lot to discover here, so take your time. If you want to jam-pack your schedule, swing by the nearby town of Kingham. While you’re there, walk through town and stop by St. Andrew’s Church. On your way out, also stop by All Saints Church, just two miles outside of Kingham. This church was modeled after Christ Church and Magdalen College in Oxford and is very cool to see.

Evening

Spend your early evening strolling down the main drag of Moreton-in-Marsh, about 15 minutes away. Keep an eye out for Redesdale Hall, built in 1886 and once an early venue for Elton John. If you have time and daylight, you could also stop at Bourton House Garden or Batsford Arboretum.

Plan for dinner at The Bell Inn, which was Tolkien’s inspiration for The Prancing Pony. Then head back to your accommodations in Stow-on-the-Wold, about 10 minutes away.

Ta-da. There you have it: a short, sweet, but jam-packed three days in the Cotswolds. To recap, you saw some of the most famous villages in the Cotswolds, like Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Moreton-in-Marsh. You saw multiple centuries-old churches, classic honey-colored stone cottages, and had a few essential pub meals. This is a great itinerary if you are using exclusively public transport.

5 Day Cotswolds Itinerary

Welcome to your 5 day Cotswolds itinerary. I’m so glad you have more time to spend here. We are going to build off the 3 day itinerary and keep exploring this AONB region. This itinerary is best done with a car.

Home base: Stow-on-the-Wold or Winchcombe
Best for: first-time visitors who have a little more time and want to see a lot of the Cotswolds
Driving time: up to 2–3 hours per day

You’re going to start your itinerary by completing Days 1–3. In just those first three days, you can confidently check off two of my eight designated regions of the Cotswolds. Want to know exactly what those regions are? Check out my post on what to know before you go.

This itinerary gives a home base of Stow-on-the-Wold or Winchcombe. Alternatively, you could spend the first three days in Stow and then switch over for Days 4 and 5, staying in Winchcombe.

Day 4

Morning

If you decide to stay in Winchcombe, start your day with a visit to The Old Bakery for breakfast provisions. Make sure to caffeinate, because today we are driving south.

Drive down to Castle Combe, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Parking is up the hill from the village. Stroll down and enjoy exploring the old village. See the market cross anchoring the center of town. Head to the left from the market cross to check out The Manor House. The ivy-covered facade is regal, but the most epic photos come from the nearby staircase.

Exit down the long lane and gate from The Manor House, which will put you right near the famous bridge and view of the town. That river, bridge, and honey-colored building combo is exactly why Castle Combe gets crowned one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds. If you’re feeling peckish, The Old Stables is a great place to stop for a slice of cake.

Don’t hesitate to explore The Manor House. The day we visited they were hosting a wedding and had signage saying the grounds were closed, but we, along with others, were still able to stroll around in the morning without any issue.

Afternoon

Head next to nearby Lacock, about 18 minutes away. Grab tickets to the Abbey and explore the beautiful grounds and ancient building. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, make sure you check out the cloisters, warming room, sacristy, and chapter house, all of which appeared in the films.

Make sure to stroll through town before leaving as well. For a quick lunch, grab a sandwich at Lacock Deli, or if you want to sit down and take a load off, The George Inn is a great option.

Evening

End your day by driving to Tetbury, about 30 minutes away. Stroll through the shops, including the many antique stores. Make sure to see the Chipping Steps and St. Mary’s Church while spending time in Tetbury. If you have time and daylight, the Tetbury Police Museum or Tetbury Goods Shed Arts Centre would also be great stops.

Have dinner at The Royal Oak or opt for Italian at Casa. If you’d rather get the driving over with, head back to Winchcombe first, about an hour away, and have dinner at The Lion Inn.

Day 5

Morning

After a busy Day 4, today we are going to enjoy Winchcombe and stay local and mostly out of the car. Start with a walk down to The Tipsy Egg for breakfast. Once you’re done, head to Sudeley Castle. You can drive there to make your visit quicker, or walk down the long lane. Explore the castle and gardens. If you are there around Christmas, go in the evening for the impressive garden light show and mulled wine.

Afternoon

Enjoy exploring the town of Winchcombe. Stop by St. Peter’s Church and picturesque Vineyard Street. Then it’s time to head out into the countryside. Hike out to Kenelm’s Well via this route to see the site where, as the story goes, a spring appeared to save monks. Or choose this hike that takes you to Belas Knap, an ancient burial site. Either option will take you most of the afternoon.

Evening

After washing the mud from your shoes, it’s time to relax. Head to 5 North Street if you want to indulge in French food in Winchcombe, or The Plaisterers Arms for a pub dinner. If you don’t mind driving, head to the amazing Horse & Groom, which is only about 15 minutes away in Bourton-on-the-Hill.

The 5 day itinerary really opens up your options in the Cotswolds. You now get to see some major and beautiful towns like Castle Combe and Tetbury, explore the smaller hidden gem of Lacock, and spend a day actually walking through the hills. And that, to me, is a true Cotswolds experience everyone should have.

7 Day Cotswold Itinerary

Lucky you. To spend an entire week in the Cotswolds is a dream. You’ll be able to accomplish a lot during this week, or if seeing and doing is not your main goal, a full week is also plenty of time to enjoy small-town life, walk in lush green hills, and lean fully into everything English.

Home base: Winchcombe or Cirencester
Best for: those who want to dive deep into the Cotswolds
Driving time: up to 2-ish hours per day

Similarly to the 5 day itinerary, if you want to change locations after Days 4 and 5, try staying your final two days in Cirencester for slightly bigger-town vibes.

Day 6

Morning

Start this day at Roots + Seeds Café for breakfast in Cirencester. Spend the morning exploring some of the town. Stop at the ornate Church of St. John the Baptist, as it is a core sight of the Cotswolds and one of those churches that makes you stop mid-thought and just gawk a little.

Try the 2.5-mile circular walk around Cirencester, which will take you to the ancient amphitheater and through beautiful Cirencester Park.

Afternoon

Grab lunch in Cirencester at Corn Hall Deli or drive to Bibury, about 18 minutes away, for lunch at Twig. Explore the cute and petite town of Bibury before walking to the famous Arlington Row. These are the quintessential Cotswolds cottages on basically every postcard, so yes, you very much should stop by.

Continue on to the town of Burford, about 17 minutes away. Burford has an incredible church near the main parking area in town. It is very grand and worth a stop. Spend the rest of your time slowly walking up the High Street hill. Pop into whatever shops look appealing or stop for a beverage along the way. Enjoy the view from the top of the hill.

If you have time, stop in the local Tolsey Museum in Burford, which is free to enter, donation appreciated, and just small enough to squeeze into the end of the afternoon.

Evening

If you would like to continue spending your evening in Burford, stay for dinner at The Angel at Burford. Or head just 15 minutes farther out, yes making your drive back to Cirencester a bit longer, to The Bull in Charlbury or The King’s Head in Bledington, both of which are excellent pubs.

Day 7

Morning

For our final day in the Cotswolds, we are heading north again, but this time for a little retail therapy, a famous tower, and a couple of tiny blips of towns.

First, grab breakfast at Jack’s before leaving Cirencester. Then head out to the town of Broadway, about 45 minutes away. Stop at Guilt Trip Coffee if you need a little pick-me-up before exploring. Walk down the picturesque High Street and pop into the shops. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, meeting the locals and seeing all the little goods and tchotchkes is half the fun.

Instead of shopping, or in addition to shopping because I support both, feel free to stop by the Broadway Museum and Art Gallery or the Gordon Russell Design Museum.

Afternoon

Before leaving Broadway, grab lunch at Russell’s Fish and Chips or Broadway Deli. Head next just down the road to Broadway Tower, about seven minutes away. This tall stone tower sits in the middle of an open green space and dates from 1768. Originally it was a retreat for artists and a place for a printing press. Later, the area was used as the site of a nuclear bunker. If possible, opt to go see the bunker while you’re there.

And do not miss the herd of deer located between the tower and the parking lot. This is the second-highest point in the Cotswolds, so make sure to enjoy the view overlooking 16 counties. Casual.

After the tower, head to the town of Stanton, about 14 minutes away. Stroll through the small town, which is one of the most architecturally significant villages in the Cotswolds. Stanway House and Fountain and St. Michael and All Angels Church are great stops to make nearby as well.

Evening

The final stop of your trip is the tiny town of Snowshill, about 12 minutes away. The main stop here is Snowshill Manor. If you have time and daylight, check out the incredible collection of 22,000 objects gathered by Charles Paget Wade. But the gardens, divided by theme, are also worth your time.

The village green is home to classic Cotswolds cottages covered in greenery and a small church. And if you recognize the area, yes, it was used as Bridget Jones’ parents’ house in the movies. Make sure to enjoy the views from the hills in and around Snowshill overlooking the Cotswolds.

Then head back to Cirencester, about 40 minutes away, and have your final dinner at the famous The Bear Inn.

1 Day Only

Not everyone has enough PTO to go frolic in the English countryside. If that sounds like you, fear not you can still enjoy the Cotswolds in just one day! Here are some tour ideas to get you started:

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Bottom Line

Regardless of how much time you have, the Cotswolds is absolutely doable. I hope this post opened your eyes to all the possibilities while visiting this picturesque part of England. There is a reason it is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

So whether you go for three days or a week, take a day trip or explore the countryside in full, just make sure you go.

The post The Perfect 3, 5, and 7 Day Cotswolds Itinerary appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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I would describe myself as an anxious packer. Here are the demands I place on myself with every trip:

• An outfit for every day, some backup shirts in case I spill coffee, which is both unfortunate and alarmingly common, especially when I’m wearing white.

• A workout outfit and shoes, because what if I want to go for a run?

• I also don’t want my suitcase to be barely closable or feel like I have no space. I am a maximalist packer who wants to fit into a minimalist bag. The fact that my favorite Away bag claims it fits five to six outfits is laughable. Five to six outfits for whom? A cartoon character with no range?

So when it came time to pack for three weeks in South America, including five days of backpacking clothes meant to accommodate every season, because yes, you really can see everything in Torres del Paine, the stress level was high. But through thorough and detailed planning, I actually packed nearly perfectly for Patagonia.

Read on to find out what went on my Patagonia W-trek packing list and, maybe more importantly, what was left behind.

The Plan

We visited Patagonia during February and planned to backpack for 5 days as well as have some city time in Santiago to round out the trip. Overall, the plan was:

• Fly to Puerto Natales
• Hike the W-Trek over five days
• Pick up a rental car and drive to El Calafate
• Drive to El Chaltén
• Drive back to Puerto Natales
• Fly to Santiago
• Fly home

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The itinerary looks simple and straight to the point. Our total time away was 18 days. But here were the factors we had to consider:

• Needed gear for all seasons. You should expect nearly everything on the W-Trek except snow, depending on the season.
• Clothes for walking around Santiago, which was going to be warm (and I wanted to look cute!)
• Travel clothes for long flights and bus rides.
• Space. Not only did I need to pack clothes, but gear as well for camping and the bulk of my meals for the trek.
• Car space. We were five girls renting a small crossover-type SUV, and somehow all of our gear had to fit in the trunk.

So with all of those factors combined, packing became the equivalent of solving a 1,000-piece puzzle. But as a type-A, Capricorn planner, this was a task I was more than ready to take on.

The Bag Breakdown

Let’s start with my packing vessels before we dive into what actually filled them.

Of course, backpacking required a specific backpack. The most important thing when you are considering buying a pack to trek through the mountains is the fit. I highly recommend visiting an REI and getting properly fitted for a backpack. Be open to buying something you hadn’t originally considered. I am a petite 5’1″, and getting fitted was essential.

Years ago, hiking on Mt. Hood in Oregon, I borrowed a friend’s backpack that left me with bruising all over my sides and a lot of back pain because she had about six inches on me. That experience alone sold me on the importance of getting the right fit. I ended up with the right pack for my frame after trying on a few options at REI, and it made all the difference.

Other things to consider with a backpack: if you are planning on doing day hikes during your trip, consider a bag with a removable top that turns into a daypack. Other than fit and function, a rain fly that comes with the bag is absolutely essential.

I ended up with the Osprey 55L Ariel Backpack in an extra small/small. Don’t forget you’ll need and want a bag for your bag. You definitely don’t want to send a backpack with all its straps and doo-dads through the checked luggage system. Grab a duffel like this one to protect your bag.

Packing Cubes

I use packing cubes regularly and somehow now own three different sets of them, which feels excessive but also deeply on brand.

Initially, my in-laws gifted me a starter set, which was perfect. Then I bought the Away packing cubes, thinking that since they were made for the suitcase they would absolutely level up my packing game. Then I got influenced by Instagram and started using compression packing cubes.

Dear God, who needs this many packing cubes?

But here is what I’ve learned about using them:

• Sometimes the small ones are the most valuable. Yes, maybe this little cube only holds five pairs of socks, but having those socks contained in their own neat little world can make the feng shui of your bag significantly better.

• Don’t overfill the cube. Packing cubes are inefficient and not really worth it if you are just jam-packing them full of oddly folded items. The trick is folding and fitting your items to the size of the cube so the shape actually works for you.

• And honestly, having a variety of cubes is the move. While the bag of bags I now own to hold all these cubes is slightly ridiculous, I do love having different sizes and compression options for different types of trips. For optimal packing, diversify your packing cube portfolio.

• I used packing cubes in both my suitcase and backpack. The shape of the cubes in my backpack mattered a lot. I ended up using three of my Away cubes, which helped divide undergarments, camp clothes, and daily hiking clothes.

And now that I’ve talked your ear off about the benefits of packing cubes, I’m also going to recommend that whatever bags you use inside your backpack are actually waterproof. While I used packing cubes, I put my main items in dry bags. I did have a rain fly, but I still wanted to protect my hiking clothes from the elements. Hiking in the rain is hard enough without discovering your supposedly clean clothes are already wet too.

The Away Suitcase

I’m a big apologist for the Away suitcase, and I was thrilled when my friend introduced me to it.

We had registered for beautiful, high-quality, carry-on Samsonite suitcases for our wedding in 2016. And lucky for us, we got them. They were spacious, gorgeous, and the wheels were excellent. Away, frankly, could learn something there.

However, in 2018 in Italy, we were forced to pay and gate-check our bags because they didn’t fit the standard Italia Airways sizing. I wasn’t new to traveling in Europe and knew those airlines could be picky, but I had never had a problem in the past with other bags and backpacks. The key issue was that the Samsonites had soft tops. Yes, a carry-on-sized suitcase can technically fit the dimensions, but anything soft-sided has the opportunity to expand. A hard suitcase doesn’t allow that. It just strains at the zipper. And lucky for me, the Away zipper is basically made of steel.

Away Carry-On Luggage, Lightweight Hardside Suitcase with Spinner Wheels, 22 Inch Airline Approved, TSA Lock, Sea Green

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While the wheels leave much to be desired, I have packed for two weeks in NYC in the winter in this suitcase, three weeks in Sicily in the summer, and squeezed in more than I ever thought possible. And the best part? I have never had an airline say my bag was too big.

I was boarding Icelandair once to travel from Oregon to Europe, and the agent said, “Please put your bag in the box to check the size.” I did. She was busy on the computer and didn’t watch. It fit just fine, obviously. I pulled it back out, and she looked up and said, “I didn’t hear it hit the sides.”

Smugly, I replied, “Because it didn’t.” Thank you Away.

What I Packed but Didn’t Need

The number one thing my group brought that I don’t think we truly needed was a camp stove.

Luckily, we all own Jetboils, so the real estate required was pretty minimal. But the only place we actually used it was Paine Grande. Since then, I’ve read that all refugios now have hot water available for those bringing their own meals. We obviously couldn’t pack propane on a plane, so the day before the trek we bopped around Puerto Natales to buy a small canister. We used it once and then left it in a propane donation bin along the trek, about 90% full.

So while it wasn’t overly expensive or wildly space-heavy, it was still kind of unnecessary.

Instead, I would opt for one of these alternatives:

• Pack food that can survive the trek and doesn’t require hot water, like tuna packets, bagels and peanut butter
• Grab a meal or snacks at a refugio. Gray and Paine Grande have camp shops, and places like Cuernos offer hot food
• Have something like cold granola mixed with water for dinner instead

Controversial take: I would also ditch the camp pillow.

To be honest, I bought a nice one from REI that rolled up quite small and had an inflatable side with a foam pad. But it sucked. It wasn’t comfortable, my head bobbed around on it all night while I tried to find the perfect amount of inflation, and it just wasn’t smushy. Yes, smushy is the technical term here.

Instead, I would use:

• A couple of clothing items smushed up
• The top of my sleeping bag on part of my backpack
• My actual sleeping bag

It wasn’t that cold when we were in Patagonia, luckily, so most nights I had my head out of the nook at the top of the sleeping bag anyway. Truly, buying a solid sleeping bag is some of the best advice I can give.

What I Packed and Was Glad I Had

If you are like me and love being outdoors but ultimately also love a hot shower and a bed each night, you may find the W-Trek a little outside your comfort zone. I took a few precautions during the trek to help myself survive five days in the wilderness without my usual creature comforts.

And if you are strong and rugged and don’t mind being dirty, feel free to skip ahead.

But if you are like me and want at least the feeling of being clean, bring your shampoo.

My friend said, “It’s a waste of space. You don’t need to wash your hair.”

Let me tell you, that private shower where I washed and conditioned my hair after wearing it in braids for three days was life-changing. No more itchy scalp. No more sweat buildup. I felt like I had rejoined civilization for 17 glorious minutes. So for me, it was worth the weight in my bag.

Clothing Options

I’ve said it in nearly every blog post I’ve written about Patagonia, and at least once or twice already in this one, but you must pack for Patagonia like you may experience all four seasons in one day.

Because I’m here to tell you: you might.

Sleet, rain, heavy winds, and sunshine strong enough to hand you a sunburn without apology. Plan for the best, but prepare for the worst.

So while my bag was heavy, I was thrilled to have a clean top to wear every day that could accommodate the weather for that day, whether that meant a T-shirt or a long sleeve. And when I was freezing and shivering while waiting for the sun to rise at the Towers, I was so happy to be wearing a long-sleeved workout top, fleece jacket, packable puffer jacket, raincoat, beanie, and gloves.

Yes, I was still cold. But can you imagine being there without all of that?

So when you begin to think about what to pack for the W-Trek in Patagonia, the answer is simple: bring layers. More layers than your optimistic self thinks you need.

Extra Curriculars

I think the overarching theme of this post is that people will tell you, “You don’t need it,” in the name of saving space and weight on your back.

But I’m here to say: if you train correctly, plan appropriately, and pack efficiently, you can trek through these Chilean mountains and eat your cake too. Bad pun fully intended.

I packed my Kindle, my headphones, and a portable solar charger. Yes, going off the grid sounds amazing and relaxing in theory, but I am not a lover of silence and contemplation. So for me, bringing some extracurricular activities was important.

I listened to audiobooks, podcasts, and music while hiking. I read a few pages of a book each night before falling asleep. And I kept my phone charged not just for photo opportunities, but also for calling my husband on Wi-Fi at the refugios.

Normally, I can go five days without speaking to my spouse. But these were special circumstances.

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Food

Packing food for the W-Trek can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make it.

If you are flexible and don’t mind spending a little more, you can absolutely buy food in South America. Stores have everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to camping food. You may just be paying a premium for it.

If you follow a specific diet, though, it may be a little more challenging to find what you need. Traveling abroad with food is no big deal if that’s the route you want to take. I packed all my favorite protein bars, peanut butter packets, trail mix, and favorite Mountain House meals. In addition, I brought Starbucks Via packets for my morning coffee, and the girls and I shared a dried coconut non-dairy creamer.

Bringing that in my checked luggage was no big deal, and it meant I had things I knew I would actually want to eat, with the goal of adding a few fresh extras once we got to town.

Whoopsie

I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I packed way too much food.

It was done with anxiety in mind. I do fear being hungry without options, and a common question I ask myself while traveling is: where is my next meal coming from? In fact, food is such a big part of travel for me that I have an entire section of my blog dedicated to dining while traveling.

But with that said, I was overprepared.

I had Mountain House breakfasts and dinners for each day of the trek. My lunch had a full snack-platter theme. Protein bars, jerky, pickles, apples, peanut butter, trail mix, nuts, and more. While I am a hungry gal, I left the trek with so much extra food because we didn’t really stop for full lunch breaks while hiking. Maybe fifteen minutes here or there to eat an apple or some jerky, but otherwise we saved a lot of our eating for meals at the start and end of the day.

The other factor is that most of the refugios have purchasable snacks and meals. So I would opt for packing less and, if you find yourself in a bind or hungrier than expected, grab a weird zucchini pizza at Cuernos or a bag of Doritos at Paine Grande to fill the void.

What Went in My Suitcase

While I definitely usually ride with the “flexibility is key” mindset when packing clothes for a trip, because a girl needs options, this was not one of those trips.

Outfits needed to be planned out. Space needed to be conserved. And I had to be super intentional about what I was bringing.

After hiking the W-Trek, we still had hikes and visits in El Calafate and El Chaltén to dress ourselves for. We booked a place in El Calafate that had laundry, which was essential, and were able to basically reset our W-Trek clothes and wear them again for future hikes, hangs, and travel days.

I specifically packed what I’d call my “in-between clothes” in my suitcase. Comfortable clothes for our drives, cute clothes for our days in Santiago, and casual clothes for the days between hikes in El Chaltén and El Calafate. I already had my outerwear layers, which made warmth and comfort easy moving forward.

I brought only one other pair of shoes, these comfortable Everlane “band shoes”, as my husband so lovingly calls them, for strolling through towns and exploring Santiago.

What I’d Change Next Time

I can’t help but toot my own horn here, but clothing-wise, I think I packed perfectly.

While I didn’t really need the second cute outfit for Santiago, it would have been sad for my friend Kate, who wore the skirt and top I didn’t end up wearing, if I hadn’t brought it along. And while I never wore the one pair of hiking shorts I packed, if it had been blazing hot one day on the trek, I would have been sad to be sweating and not letting my legs see the sun (it was February after all and I did live in the PNW).

I think it’s important to be as prepared as possible for the W or O treks, and if that means a couple of unused items or an extra few ounces because you brought shampoo to deal with your Hagrid mane, then so be it.

As I said above, though, the food was overkill and the propane was ultimately unnecessary. If you want to read more about what I would change about hiking the W-Trek, check out my post here.

The Bottom Line

Packing for three weeks can be hard. Packing for three weeks of backpacking and hiking in rural South America, plus city visits and long plane rides? Brutal.

But with your type-A, neurotic Capricorn bestie on your side, that would be me, you can absolutely pack efficiently and still bring the items you really care about.

While there are definitely things I would do better next time when packing for the W-Trek and the following two weeks in Chile and Argentina, I think I accomplished what I wanted packing-wise: lots of options and feeling fully prepared.

I’m always happy to advise travelers on anything Patagonia-related, especially if it includes packing. DM me on Instagram or shoot me an email at Jess@updatelater.com.

If you want to read a day-to-day breakdown of my W-trek adventure, check out day 1 here!

The post Patagonia W-Trek Packing List: Complete Guide appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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When I was growing up and started dreaming about traveling the world, Rome was the first place I thought of. Yes, maybe it was because Lizzie McGuire threw her coin into the Trevi Fountain and all her pop star dreams came true. But I like to think I have a little more substance than that.

Note to the readers: I don’t.

Going to Rome lived on my bucket list for years in a way my little travel bug simply would not let go of. Now, many years later, it’s one of the cities in Europe I’ve been to the most, and for me it never gets old. So whether you are a first-timer or a fifth-timer, I think there is something to learn in this Rome travel guide.

Who Should Go to Rome

While I think the Eternal City is just that, eternal, I personally believe Rome is a great destination for any traveler.

Rome is a perfect destination if this is your first time in Europe. Flights may not be as fast, easy, or inexpensive compared to places like London, for example. However, you make up for the lack of travel ease with incredible history, drool-worthy food and a city that truly transports you back in time. Rome is a place that makes you feel like you are genuinely in another country and experiencing a new culture.

You don’t mind big cities. Rome is actually incredibly manageable on foot, with the occasional cab or bus when needed. But there is a reason why Rome is popular and guess what? I’m not the first person to realize it. So while Rome doesn’t feel like a huge city in the way NYC does, the cat is very much out of the bag, and you should expect lines, crowds, and waiting at many of the main attractions.

Food is important to you. In my opinion, Rome has some of the best food in Italy and that is due in part to the regionality of Italian dishes. In Florence you don’t skip the Florentine steak, in Sicily you have pasta alla Norma, and in Rome you get the best of the best. Their local pasta dishes are cacio e pepe, gricia, carbonara, and amatriciana. A white sauce, crunchy pork bits, a peppery cheese situation, and a spicy red sauce, we have covered all the main pasta moods. Add in the street food, like supplì, and you absolutely will not go hungry here.

You want to see and learn about history. Ancient Rome was the building block of seemingly everything in the world: art, architecture, religion, governance, drama, all of it. Having even a small insight into how Roman culture influenced the world is eye-opening. Plus, sites like the Colosseum, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain are jaw-dropping and memorable in their own right.

How Long to Spend in Rome

With a lot of destinations I can easily say, “Stay 2–3 days, but if you really want to know the city, stay a week.” And to be honest, Rome is incredible, but I also don’t think you need a full week to enjoy and embrace it. Some places are best when you leave them still head over heels, rather than staying just a bit too long and falling out of love with the experience.

Here is what I recommend, along with an idea of what is possible in each time frame.

2 Days

This is both the bare minimum and, honestly, maybe the perfect amount of time. If you are motivated and love to walk, you can do a lot in Rome in two days.

In just one morning, you can see many of the sights in the center: the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and the famous Campo de’ Fiori market, all before 10 a.m. Explore the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, and the Borghese Gardens.

Spend the next morning at the Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Castel Sant’Angelo before lunching at Da Enzo in Trastevere. Add in an afternoon tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill before strolling to Giardino degli Aranci for the optical illusion and insane city views. Then have dinner in the hipster and nearby Monti neighborhood before scoring gelato on your way home.

3–4 Days

Perfect for those who don’t want to be rushed and want more time to nibble around the city. Since you can cover many of the major sights in two days, this gives you the chance to spread things out and save one “big sight” per day, think Colosseum, Vatican Museums, or the historic center.

Now you have more time to visit a few of the 900-plus churches in Rome, like St. John Lateran, Santa Maria in Trastevere, or San Clemente. This is the sweet spot for people who want to see the city without feeling like they are being chased through it by their own itinerary.

5 Days

This is the absolute maximum amount of time I would spend in Rome in one go. You have plenty of time to see everything Rome has to offer, and with that freedom, you can opt into more specific tours and experiences.

I have done the Key Master tour in the Vatican Museums and it is single-handedly the best tourist experience I have ever had. You could also opt for a food tour, like the one I took in Trastevere. And if you want a break from history and the hustle of Rome, you can take a day trip out of town.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Neighborhood Overview

If you want a full breakdown of where I think the best areas to stay in Rome are, check out my Rome neighborhood post, which also has great hotel recommendations. Otherwise, here is a quick overview of what you may find in each part of the city.

Historic Center

This one is easy. You are right in the center of Rome, which makes it perfect for first-time visitors. No, I wouldn’t recommend most of the restaurants in this area, but you really can’t beat stepping out your hotel door and being minutes away from gorgeous piazzas, unknown churches and crumbling stone monuments around every corner. You’ll find Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and more.

Prati

This neighborhood sits west of the river and feels more modern than much of the rest of the city. It’s convenient if you are prioritizing the Vatican and is well connected by public transit to the rest of Rome. Here you will find posh restaurants, bars and boutiques.

Monti

Best for quick and easy access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill, Monti sits just above the historic center. Here you will have the opportunity to rub shoulders with locals while enjoying a spritz on cobblestoned streets. It’s stylish without being unbearable about it.

Trastevere

The most popular district in Rome, and very much alive. This is a great place to base yourself if your focus is delicious food and you don’t mind walking a bit. You’re just across the bridge from the historic center and near Vatican City. The energy is high, it attracts a younger crowd, and you won’t be disappointed by the cute corners and warm people of Trastevere.

Aventine Hill

Located up a hill past the Colosseum, you’ll find this peaceful and quiet side of Rome. Home to many wealthy locals, and the views absolutely explain the real estate prices. This unspoiled part of the city is great for exploring Giardino degli Aranci, the Aventine Keyhole, and some truly insane views. It is also well connected by public transit.

Getting Around

Like I have said before, Rome is extremely walkable. Yes, some of those walks can be a bit long if you are heading to sights on opposite edges of the city, but a lot of it is totally doable on foot, especially if you group your visits by area.

However, if you are not up for big city-crossing treks just to see the Vatican Museums and the Spanish Steps in the same day, you can always opt for the metro. While it doesn’t go everywhere, major misses include the historic center and Trastevere, it is very useful for longer distances.

Using the Roman Metro

There are underground and overground trains, and both accept the same tickets, despite being run by different operators.

A single ticket costs around €1.50, but there are also passes available for 24 hours up to a full week.

You can always opt for the Roma Pass if you want discounts on some tourist sights and unlimited use of public transportation around the city for a few days.

You can buy tickets at the stations, just make sure to validate your single-use tickets before entering the train.

If you want to use your phone instead, you can opt for the Tap & Go option available in Rome. Tap to enter through the barrier on the circular disc and tap out the same way to exit. The system then charges you accordingly.

You’ll notice above that there are a few places not serviced by public transport, and for good reason. Even now, Italy is working on adding an additional metro line that could open up the transport system immensely, but it is a slow process for a lot of reasons. One of them being that they keep finding gorgeous preserved statues, frescoes, and historic items as they dig to create the underground. Incredible. Inconvenient maybe, but incredible.

Ride Share

Uber is available in Rome, but be aware that they only have black car options. So you will be paying a slight premium if you take an Uber around the city.

You can also try other options like Free Now, which links you up with a taxi and lets you pay everything in the app, or the itTaxi app, which is Italy’s taxi app.

Safety

Where there are tourists, there are pickpockets. Always stay alert when visiting a foreign country or a big city. People are practiced and experienced in the art of being sly.

While I haven’t found as many scam opportunities in Rome as I have in Paris, you should still keep an eye out for those things. Pay special attention in the following scenarios:

• Arriving by Train: there is something about not knowing where you’re going and schlepping your bags around a train station that makes you an excellent option for a pickpocket.

• Big Crowds: Speaking from experience here, watch your bag and your pockets closely when you are stuck in a big crowd. Learn from the mistake I made in Marrakech.

• Metro Stations and Bus Stops: these are prime target spots for thieves. Be especially on guard in these locations, particularly during rush hour.

Emergency Numbers

And as always, I would be remiss if you didn’t know how to get help if you needed it. When in doubt, dial 112.

112 = National emergency number (police, ambulance, firefighters)
118 = Ambulance
115 = Fire department
113 = Police

What’s Actually Worth Seeing

Rome is a city where it is pretty clear what the main sights are. But of course, I would always encourage people to get off the beaten path and explore some of the lesser-known things too. And don’t forget to make time for food. Update Later Travel believes food is just as important, and thus we aim for no bad meals while on vacation.

Main Sights

• Colosseum & Roman Forum
• Vatican Museums
• St. Peter’s Basilica
• Vatican City
• Trevi Fountain
• Piazza Navona
• Campo de’ Fiori
• Pantheon
• Spanish Steps
• Borghese Gallery
• Giardino degli Aranci
• Gianicolo Hill
• Piazza del Popolo
• Altare della Patria
• Aventine Keyhole
• Castel Sant’Angelo

Lesser-Known Spots

• Aqueducts
• Basilica di San Clemente
• Capuchin Crypt
• Domus Aurea
• Palazzo Colonna
• Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
• Via Appia Antica and the Catacombs
• Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
• San Giovanni in Laterano
• Circus Maximus
• Piramide di Caio Cestio
• Baths of Caracalla

Plus, if you are a movie buff, you could follow Robert Langdon from Angels and Demons and traipse through all the churches and sights mentioned there.

This is one of those cases where I think almost everything is worth it. Yes, this is a giant list of sights, and not everyone wants to spend their time in Rome slogging through churches they don’t have context for or waiting in lines all day. But for me, so many of these places give that “wow” or “is this a green screen?” kind of feeling that I wouldn’t want to miss.

Visiting the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museums has been epic every time I’ve been there, which is now three times. It’s a total pinch-me moment when I think about the history that has transpired there and how Michelangelo painted those epic biblical scenes on his back. While security guards are scanning the room with military intensity to see if you’ll snap a picture against the rules and occasionally yelling “shhhh” at everyone, there is still a reason I go every single time I’m in town.

And I feel like that is the true test of Rome. These places really are epic if you are into that sort of thing.

Because there is so much to do and historical context matters, check out a few walking tours around Rome that may help open some doors for you or at least ease the stress of tackling this big list.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Dining

There is one big rule I have when visiting Rome: do not eat in a piazza.

For the most part, when people are standing outside the restaurant trying to wave you in, or there is a giant laminated menu on display showing every possible thing they serve, you are not getting the best food or the best deal. Head down a small quiet street, even in the historic center, and enter a restaurant where it looks like they genuinely could not care less whether you came in or not. Those are the spots that are going to be serving Nonna’s amatriciana, authentic, delicious, and without breaking the bank.

The only time its okay dine in a piazza is for aperitivo. It absolutely will not break the bank to grab an aperol spritz in a square and dine on little nuts and crunchy bits while you people watch.

Don’t miss trying the big four Roman pastas that I mentioned above. But while visiting Rome, make sure to dip your toe into some of the street food too. Supplì, porchetta, focaccia, panino, and of course gelato.

If you want the opportunity to try many of the Roman delicacies in one go, a food tour would be a great idea. I took this evening food tour in Trastevere and was smitten with each bite.

When to Visit

I truly believe shoulder season is the best time of year to travel.

Visiting Rome in the spring allows you to see the city as flowers are blooming, windows are opening and that sense of freshness and newness is everywhere. Yes, you may have a few select days of cooler temperatures or even rain, but those are also the best opportunities to spend your day exploring a museum.

The other time of year I would recommend visiting Rome is early fall. September and October allow you to see the city without the overwhelming crush of summer crowds. So many places in Europe don’t have air conditioning, so visiting during milder temperatures can make tromping around the city much easier.

With all of that said, Rome is a popular destination. There are going to be crowds all year long, no matter when you go. So while spring and fall may be a bit less intense, the city will never exactly be empty.

The Bottom Line

Wow, I love Rome.

I loved writing this and reminiscing on my many trips to the Eternal City. Yes, there is so much history embedded in the museums, the architecture, the churches, and frankly around every corner. But while the sights are great, Roman culture itself is really unmissable. It’s lively, kind, welcoming, and full of the kind of energy that makes you want to come back before you’ve even left.

I think everyone should visit Rome at least once in their lifetime. And if you’re lucky enough to drop a coin in the Trevi Fountain, then Rome will be waiting to welcome you back on your return.

The post Rome Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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If you have ever been on the application Instagram and scrolled through European travel reels and posts, you have probably encountered the restaurant Pink Mamma. Located in Pigalle (9th arrondissement) in Paris, this restaurant is no stranger to long lines and well-earned internet clout. And yes, this is why Pink Mamma is famous.

But Pink Mamma isn’t the only Mamma out there.

There are nine restaurants from the Big Mamma group in Paris alone, with 20 locations throughout Europe (plus one in Dubai) and 14 total in France. And before you yell CHAIN!—hold on. I’m going to dive into why having 34 restaurants does not automatically equal the narrative that chain restaurants are bad.

Keep reading to find out why Pink Mamma is appropriately well-known… but why it may not even be the best Big Mamma restaurant.

A Chain

When you think of a chain restaurant, some big hitters come to mind: McDonald’s, Burger King, KFC, Chipotle, Subway. You aren’t visiting these places for their culinary prowess, you’re there for convenience, speed, and familiarity (and yes, the flavors do hit sometimes).

Because of that, chain restaurants have become synonymous with poor quality. Add in the modern obsession with authenticity, unique experiences, and food that feels special, and chain restaurants tend to land low on the list with a glaring mental stop sign.

I’m here to dispel some of those preconceived notions.

Chain restaurants may scream shortcuts, poor quality, and the idea that you can get the same thing anywhere. And while that absolutely describes a lot of fast-food joints, it doesn’t describe the Big Mamma group. Where fast casual cuts corners, Big Mamma very intentionally showcases time, care, and respect for Italian food.

Unlike chains that feel diluted from location to location (looking at you, Starbucks), Big Mamma restaurants are chock-full of flavor, one-of-a-kind dining rooms, and consistently excellent service.

This is where the distinction matters: Big Mamma operates at scale, but not at the expense of personality, product, or experience. That’s the difference and it’s why the “chain” label doesn’t quite stick.

What Big Mamma Consistently Does Right

It starts with their products. Big Mamma sources 75% of their ingredients from Italy or Italian producers, which means you aren’t getting a run-of-the-mill spaghetti pomodoro just because you’re eating Italian food in Paris. The tomatoes in your sauce? Grown and canned in Italy. And you can taste that care.

While a lot of chain restaurants achieve consistency by flattening their menus, Big Mamma does it with an asterisk. Their food is dependably delicious, and their menus share familiar favorites across locations, but they don’t stop there.

I once ate at three Big Mamma locations on one trip (my friend is a serious pasta lover), and each menu still felt spontaneous rather than repetitive. Yes, there is crossover (the truffle is a Big Mamma staple) and there should be. Why mess with a good thing? But the menus evolve with seasons and locations, which is exactly why you can visit multiple Big Mamma restaurants in one trip and still feel like you went somewhere new each time.

The Atmosphere

What initially confused me about the Big Mamma group was their atmosphere, in the best way possible.

I once walked into Palatino, the Big Mamma restaurant in Bordeaux, without realizing it was part of the group until I opened the menu. The immediate reaction was wonder and awe. My thought was not “this seems familiar” but rather, “how did I not know about this unique and fun spot?”. Busy walls, neon lights, gingham tablecloths, it was layered, playful, and maximalist. But somehow, it never tipped into gaudy.

It felt intentional, not overwhelming. Welcoming, not chaotic. Interesting, not cookie-cutter.

The funniest part? Despite having visited several Big Mamma locations before, I didn’t connect the dots immediately. That’s because Big Mamma doesn’t copy and paste their environments. Each restaurant has its own identity. The Manchester location feels completely different from Bordeaux, which feels different from Paris.

If you’re checking out multiple locations (and you probably will), you’ll still be surprised every time you walk through the door. Each space has its own fingerprint, and that’s rare at this scale.

Service Choreography

I don’t believe bad service is mandatory at chain restaurants. I’ve been helped by genuinely kind, hardworking people in plenty of chains, even ones slinging Big Macs.

But what Big Mamma does with service is something else entirely.

I’ve written before about fluid restaurant choreography, most notably in my post about Dishoom, and Big Mamma nails this same concept. From arrival to ordering to the final check drop, you feel continuously taken care of without being hovered over.

Servers are confident, knowledgeable, and actually helpful. You never feel forgotten, and they can recommend Italian wines with ease, even while surrounded by some of the best French bottles in the world. That level of service consistency, across dozens of locations, is impressive and absolutely part of why the group works.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Pink Mamma Model

Pink Mamma in Paris is the jumping-off point. It’s four floors of magic.

Located on a corner, the triangular (yes, pink) building feels like stepping into Alice in Wonderland. You ascend a spiral staircase where every inch of wall space is covered in framed portraits. Each floor has its own spin, leaning fully into maximalism.

And then you reach the top.

The final floor opens into a garden-of-eden-style space with a glass ceiling, dangling plants, warm bulb lighting, and a green bar as the pièce de résistance in the center. It’s stunning. It’s cinematic. It’s Instagram bait in the best way.

Add in the speakeasy on the lower level, No Entry, hidden behind a freezer-style door, and you’ve got yourself a moment. Honestly, the cocktails and the speakeasy alone are worth a visit.

But here’s the thing: visiting the Pink Mamma isn’t essential.

Pink Mamma is notorious, which means lines, crowds, and limited chances of snagging that iconic top floor. While we can thank Pink Mamma for being our gateway drug into the Big Mamma universe, it’s not the only (or even the best) option.

Other locations offer more relaxed vibes, easier reservations, and the same quality of food. Don’t let Instagram fool you. Pink Mamma is great, but the other Mammas are just as good.

When Big Mamma Makes Sense

After visiting five Big Mamma locations, here’s when it actually makes sense to go:

• A group: They accommodate groups of all sizes easily.
  
• When you need flexibility: I once adjusted a reservation online 30 minutes before we were due to arrive after a friend got stuck in an Uber from CDG. No phone call. No stress.
  
• When you want consistency: Not every meal hits. When you want easy, delicious pasta or pizza that won’t disappoint, Big Mamma has your back.
  
• First nights: When you’re jet-lagged and learning the city, a dependable reservation is a gift.
  
• Short on time: In cities like Paris and London, there’s almost always a Big Mamma nearby when your schedule is tight.

That said, there are times when Big Mamma doesn’t make sense.

• Italy: Yes, the food is good and the ingredients are Italian, but when you’re in the pasta capital of the world (a title I just assigned), prioritize local spots.
  
• Peace and quiet: Busy walls, loud rooms, lots of people. This is not your hushed, candlelit dinner destination.
  
• Local discovery: If you’re on a strict duck-and-foie-gras agenda while in France, this may not be your stop.
  

Practical Notes

• Reservations: Yes. Make them. They’re easy, adjustable, and ideal for groups. If you’ve ever seen the line outside Pink Mamma, you’ll thank me.
  
• Timing: First nights are ideal, but don’t sleep on lunch if your evenings are packed.
  
• No Entry speakeasy: Go earlier than you think. You won’t regret sipping a glowing cocktail out of a coconut.
  

The Bottom Line

Yes, Big Mamma is a chain. And yes, it’s delicious and worth it. Two things can be true.

So the next time you’re scrolling past another reel about Paris and Pink Mamma, remember: sometimes the places getting the most attention actually deserve it. Overrated and touristy are not words I’d use here and I think you’ll agree.

If you’re looking for more restaurant content, you can find all of my food & drink posts here.

The post Is Pink Mamma in Paris Worth the Hype? appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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I have to be upfront with you. I’m biased. There, I said it. I am biased as hell when it comes to where I’m from. I think it’s the best, and I honestly wouldn’t blame everyone if they wanted to come live there. It’s hard to navigate blog life and travel life as an unbiased creator when it comes to my hometown: Portland, Oregon.

So when I begin to write about anything Portland-related, I ultimately just end up thinking, “Well, go there. It’s the best.”

This applies to the food, the coffee, the beer, and of course, the wine. You would be absolutely remiss to visit Portland and leave wine out of your plans. The city has an incredibly robust wine scene, from wine bars like Bar Diane to the impressive carte de vin at restaurants like Ok Omens and Kann (which you can read all about here!)

But if you want the full Oregon wine experience, you need to head out to wine country. The Willamette Valley, which houses over two-thirds of all Oregon vineyards and is one of the best Pinot Noir-producing regions in the world.

About

The Willamette Valley stretches over 150 miles and is an excellent place to grow grapes, especially pinot noir. The Coast Range mountains to the west protect the valley from frigid ocean air, while the Cascade Mountains shield it from the desert-like aridity of the east. It’s a bit Goldilocks out there. Cocooned by mountains and fed a healthy diet of mild weather, the Willamette Valley has the kind of conditions grape growers dream about.

And then there’s the soil, which is where wine people start to get really annoying in the best possible way.

Jory soil, which is more volcanic in nature, holds moisture well and provides fertile ground for grapes. Another main soil type is marine sedimentary soil called Willakenzie, named for the Willamette and McKenzie rivers of Oregon. These are some of the oldest soils in the area and were formed by the uplift of the ocean floor many, many moons ago. This helps contribute to grapes developing darker berry notes and earthy character. Lastly, there is the windblown silt called Loess, which arrived by… the wind. Revolutionary. While its loose structure doesn’t make it ideal on its own for planting, it is well known for adding character to the wine.

So combine all of that with passionate, knowledgeable winemakers, and you have yourself an incredible wine region that still feels a little less commercialized than places like Napa. And thank God for that. In fact, because there are so many winemakers in Oregon, there is genuinely something for every budget. You absolutely can find very high-quality and very expensive Pinot Noirs from famous producers like Domaine Serene. But there are also other winemakers making wines that feel much more approachable in both taste and cost, like Stoller Family Estate Pinot, which will set you back around $21.99.

Planning a Trip to the Willamette Valley

With so many incredible producers and tasting rooms, you could spend ages exploring the region, tasting different varietals, and taking in the gorgeous scenery while you do it. Whether you go just for the day or decide to fully luxuriate in the Willamette Valley for a weekend, there are a myriad of options at your fingertips.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Where to Stay

There are plenty of Airbnbs around the Willamette Valley that can accommodate groups of all sizes. So whether you are planning a bachelorette party or a romantic getaway, you should be able to find exactly what you’re looking for. But if you want a more unique stay right in the heart of wine country, check out some options below.

The Allison Inn & Spa

This is your splurge spot. With beautiful rooms, excellent service, and one of the best spas I’ve ever been to, a stay at The Allison Inn should be at the very top of your list for your next Willamette Valley wine tasting adventure.

The Vintages

I love any opportunity to stay somewhere unusual. A tree house in Costa Rica, a clear-topped dome for the Northern Lights in Iceland, and in the Willamette Valley? Vintage Airstream trailers. Say less.

The Silos

Continuing on with unique stays, check out The Silos at Abbey Road Vineyard. These are actual grain silos reconstructed into adorable, well-decorated B&Bs. Bonus points for staying right on the property near all the wine, the vineyards, and the nearby farm animals, which really rounds out the pastoral fantasy.

Stoller Family Estate

Take advantage of staying on property at the well-known Stoller Family Estate. They have three vacation rental houses that accommodate six to twelve guests, respectively. And of course, you get the best possible views over the vineyards and estate without having to drive anywhere after a tasting. Huge win.

Airbnbs

While there is a wealth of fun and wine-focused stays in the Willamette Valley, there are also a number of excellent Airbnbs. Saunas, pools, and gorgeous views are very much the name of the game. Here are some beautiful spots for your trip.

• McMinville with Fire Pit

• Dayton House for a large group with a Pool ! 

• Gorgeous Country House on 6 Acres

• House Walkable to Wine

Honorable Mentions

• Sosta House
• Atticus Hotel
• Inn the Ground

A Quick Bit About Wine

I nerd out a little bit on wine science. When people go to tastings and aren’t hanging on every word about how the wine was made, it genuinely boggles my mind. I want to know where the grapes are from, how long they fermented, what kind of vessel they aged in, and yes, how many weird little choices were made along the way. There are so many aging vessels now. Have you heard of an amphora? Because I have, and I would love to discuss.

Anyways, yes, this section is partly here for me because I love it, but mostly because I want to break the stigma around natural wine. Despite the internet memes, words like natural, biodynamic, and zero-zero still trigger something in people who love a traditional bottle. So let’s break it down real quick so you can head into Willamette Valley wine tasting with an open mind and without acting scared of a cloudy orange wine.

Conventional Wine

This is most of the wine people drink around the world today. There are policies wineries are beholden to, but farming practices, intervention, and growing techniques can vary widely. Wineries can use pesticides and herbicides if needed, they may use machines to pick grapes, and they may add sulfites and other additives to influence the wine during the winemaking process. This is not to say conventional winemakers are dumping Roundup into your glass, just that the practices are more open and more traditional. Winemakers still want to put forward their best bottles.

Natural

Maybe part of the issue is that natural wine can mean a lot of different things, depending on who is talking and how insufferable they are being about it. But for the most part, it means little to no intervention. This includes minimal filtering, fewer additives, low sulfur, and native yeast fermentation. Unfortunately, because of that lower-intervention approach, these wines often do not have the same long shelf life as conventional wines you can toss in a cellar for decades and forget about until you suddenly become a person who says “cellar.”

Organic

All natural wines are organic, but not all organic wines are natural. Essentially, organic wine means the grapes are grown without synthetic fertilizers and the winemaking is done organically, for example by using organic yeast. These grapes and wines can still have been treated with approved sprays during the growing process, unlike natural wines. And if you are looking specifically for organic wines, be careful: an organic label on the bottle can mean the grapes are organic, but not necessarily that the entire process was. Have I lost you? Great, let’s continue.

Biodynamic

This winemaking process goes back to the early 1900s and was developed by Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher. Biodynamic practices follow the lunar cycle in both crop growing and production. The calendar is broken down into fruit, root, leaf, and flower days, which guide practices like harvesting, pruning, watering, and resting.

While this can make people yell “witch!” and sprint back to their dependable conventional bottles, biodynamics is actually one of the more natural processes a winery can implement. Biodynamic wines, similar to organic and natural wines, do not allow the use of pesticides and other more conventional vineyard practices. While not strictly required, many biodynamic wineries also hand-pick their grapes and avoid machinery in the vineyard. It may sound crunchy, but the wines can be incredible, so let’s all calm down.

Wineries To Visit

This is arguably the most important question when visiting the Willamette Valley. You can find new and small producers, natural and biodynamic producers, and big pinot houses that will make you feel like you’ve been transported straight to Burgundy. I’ve included a mix of classic producers and spots with inventive wine lists that feel a bit more off the beaten path.

Domaine Drouhin

Over a century ago, Joseph Drouhin began his winery in Burgundy, France, and the family has since opened another stellar spot in the Willamette Valley. Burgundy and Oregon are closely linked, especially when it comes to chardonnay and pinot noir, and Domaine Drouhin does both beautifully here in Oregon. They took over 100 years of winemaking history in France and brought that expertise with them to create some truly incredible Oregon wines. Plus, their tiered patio overlooks the vineyards and has one of the best views around for a sunny afternoon. Tastings range from $40 to $60 depending on the tier you choose.

Day Wines

Day Wines, run by Brianne Day, is my personal favorite place to drink wine in the Willamette Valley. I was part of their wine club for years before moving to France, and yes, I consider that a huge endorsement. The tasting room is small and chic, and their crush pad patio is perfect for a sunny day.

The wines are made with grapes sourced from biodynamic, natural, and low-intervention vineyards, and the production follows suit. A tasting of five to six wines costs $25 and is waived with a $75 purchase. Do not miss a chance to try their pét-nat Mamacita, a personal favorite, and their Vin de Days L’Orange, which is a skin-contact orange wine that is perfect for anyone wanting to dip a toe into that world without feeling bullied by it.

Youngberg Hill

Nicolette, the owner of Youngberg Hill, has a goal of letting the grapes speak for themselves in the bottle. They focus on highlighting the fruit and allowing each glass to tell the story of the vineyard and its terroir. The Youngberg Hill property is located on, you guessed it, a hill, with some of the most beautiful surrounding landscapes in the area.

They also have a B&B on site if you want to wake up every morning with a view of the vines, which is an extremely good way to live, even temporarily. Youngberg Hill is also a great place to go with a group. They are very accommodating, tastings start at $30 per person, and reservations are not required.

Artist Block

This winery is another woman-founded and run spot in the Willamette Valley. Their focus is on creating the unexpected when it comes to winemaking and making art feel approachable for visitors. The owner, Anna Sweet, is well known for her pop-art sculpture donuts and has made Artist Block a home for up-and-coming local artists to showcase their work and grow their business on the walls of the winery.

They host parties, serve delicious charcuterie boards, and yes, offer bumps of caviar if you are feeling fancy. Tastings range from $40 for a non-alcoholic tasting to $100 for their rarest wines, and those fees are comped with a bottle minimum, an art purchase, or by joining the wine club.

Soter

Their 250-acre farm is 100% biodynamic. They really nurture the farm through natural processes, from purposeful pollinators to the on-site Scottish Highland cows that, combined with their farming practices, create a unique ecosystem for the grapes. They offer a traditional tasting for $40 per person or a more extravagant tasting and meal for anyone looking to indulge a little harder.

Argyle

Argyle is your sparkling wine destination in the Willamette Valley. They started with a grower-first mentality decades ago, and they apply an Ojo Brilloso philosophy to their winemaking. It means “shiny eye” or “nice observation,” and they’ve turned it into a broader philosophy about care for the land, intuition and deep knowledge of the vineyard.

They have landed on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list in the sparkling, chardonnay, and pinot noir categories, so do not sleep on the wines that don’t fizz. Tastings are around $45 per person, and they host a whole range of wine-related events like library tastings and master classes on sparkling wine. But they also have more community-focused gatherings like murder mystery parties, silent reading days, and western nights, which is honestly excellent programming.

Stoller

Stoller Family Estate is one of the best overall wineries to visit in the Willamette Valley. Their wine is good, but their tasting space is iconic. They have been making wine since 1943 and have spent the last 50 years cultivating their vineyards and farm across 400 acres of property.

Their indoor tasting room is modern and airy, while the outdoor space is fun for the whole family. With a tire swing off in the distance and rolling grassy hills for kids to run around, you’ll be in total bliss sitting in an Adirondack chair, glass in hand, admiring the view. Stoller is super approachable, walk-ins are always welcome, and tasting options range from $25 to $55. They also have smaller tasting rooms in Newberg and Bend.

Honorable Mentions

This is absolutely no shade to these spots. In fact, I love some of these wineries, but I would have you here all day if I wrote out every detail about each place, their practices, and their tasting rooms. So here are some amazing spots to keep on your list:

• Martin Woods
• Brick House
• Durant
• Ponzi Estates
• Cho Wines
• Domaine Willamette
• Corollary
• Kelley Fox

Where to Eat

Joel Palmer House

Located in Dayton, between McMinnville and Dundee, this is an unmissable fine dining experience. The restaurant is set in a historic white manor that feels like stepping back in time. The family has been running restaurants since the early 1900s, and they focus on wine and wild mushrooms, which is both a family tradition and a nod to their Polish roots.

This is not your casual in-between-winery-stops lunch like Trellis. This is your proper dinner plan, your “let’s act like we have taste and a reservation” meal while in the Willamette Valley.

Trellis

My favorite spot in the Willamette Valley. Make a reservation in advance if you’re coming with a big group or visiting on a weekend during busy season, or just walk in and hope for the best. The staff at Trellis are so kind and accommodating. I recommend fully committing to one of their sandwiches, and you absolutely must order the Trellis fries, which are covered in grated pecorino and rosemary. Those fries have my full respect.

Red Hills Market

Nestled in Dundee, Red Hills Market is your go-to neighborhood spot. Head there for breakfast to start your day with a bang or stop in between tastings for something easy and delicious. They have incredible wood-fired pizza, salads, sandwiches, and homemade cookies. And if you’re not looking to sit down, they also have a great market stocked with picnic goodies to take with you on the road.

Antica Terra

If you want to pair a memorable meal with your wine tasting, book it at Antica Terra. Located in Amity, a small town outside Dundee, this is the place for a robust lunch or dinner with food that emphasizes local Pacific Northwest agriculture. And the wine accompaniment to your meal will be its own adventure. Whether it’s a storied pinot noir from the region or a taste of some new, slightly weirder innovation, you will leave remembering this meal for a very long time.

Honorable mentions:

• Alchemist’s Jam: bakery in McMinnville
• Cuvée: French bistro in Carlton
• Rosmarino Osteria Italiano
• Pura Vida: Latin American restaurant
• JORY: attached to The Allison Inn
• Humble Spirit: farm-to-table in McMinnville
• HiFi Wine Bar
• Hayward

When You Don’t Want to Drink Wine Anymore

While wine is obviously the name of the game in the Willamette Valley, there are plenty of other adventures to round out your trip and make the most of your time.

Shopping

The cute main street of Newberg is a goldmine for boutiques. I once brought some friends from out of town there just to kill time before our first tasting, and we all ended up buying things we absolutely did not need but absolutely loved. But don’t skip the boutiques in McMinnville either. Here are a few of my favorites:

• Lemon
• Evelyn Taylor Avenue
• Blue Bow Boutique
• Left by West
• Mes Amies
• Lineage
• Lauretta Laynnie Boutique

The Beach

Driving out to the Willamette Valley puts you a touch closer to the Oregon Coast, especially to beaches farther south like Newport and Lincoln City. So if you feel like swapping pinot noir for sea air, here are a few options and drive times to make a coastal add-on happen:

• Pacific City: 1 hour 4 minutes
• Newport: 1 hour 33 minutes
• Lincoln City: 1 hour
• Neskowin: 1 hour 5 minutes
• Tillamook: 1 hour 24 minutes

Adventures

Enchanted Forest: A theme park based on stories and fairy tales. Crawl through the tunnel leading to Wonderland, visit the crooked house, and see Humpty Dumpty sitting on his wall, all while enjoying a log flume and a small roller coaster. While it’s mostly for children, I still think adults would get a kick out of it. Frankly, whimsy is wasted on kids.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum: While this museum has over 150 air- and space-related exhibits, its pièce de résistance is the famous Hughes plane, the Spruce Goose. You can admire the iconic aircraft from the outside and also explore inside the cockpit and plane.

99W Drive-In: Yes, a drive-in movie theater still exists. For you younger people, I recommend watching Grease to fully understand the cultural weight of the drive-in movie experience. Located in Newberg, you can still roll up in your car, bring your own snacks, snuggle in, and watch a movie the old-school way.

Festivals: This region of Oregon has a ton of festivals throughout the year, especially in spring and summer. Keep an eye out for the UFO Festival, Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival (just outside of the Willamette Valley), Oregon Truffle Festival and Hot Air Balloon Festival. If you want to read about the best bucket-list type festivals around the world, I dove deep here.

Explore the Beer Scene: Wine is not for everyone, and that’s okay. If you need a break or want to accommodate others in your group, check out some excellent beer and cider spots:

• Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery
• TopWire Hop Project
• Xicha Brewing
• Raw Cider Company
• La Familia Cider

My Favorite Wine Tasting Accessories

Whether you are hosting a wine tasting or need a couple things for a wine focused picnic in the vineyards, here are some essentials that I personally use and love.

The Bottom Line

Despite not having the household-name recognition of Napa, Sonoma, Burgundy, or Tuscany, the Willamette Valley wine region can absolutely hold its own. With world-famous pinot noirs being bottled around every corner and a combination of valley air, Oregon rain, and coastal influence hitting the hills just right, some of the best wines in the world are being made here.

And yes, I said it at the beginning: I am biased. This is absolutely a homer pick. But I still think the Willamette Valley is worth the effort to visit. Because while it is about the wine, it is also about the community and the kind of special people who care deeply about the land, the bottle, and welcoming visitors into both.

The post The Ultimate Willamette Valley Wine Tasting Guide appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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One of my favorite little trends on Instagram is “the influencers lied and I cried.” It’s essentially a reality check on destinations that were hyped to hell and then… didn’t quite deliver. Shockingly, I haven’t seen this trend applied to the Cotswolds yet, so I’m stepping in to say the quiet part out loud.

Below, I’m breaking down what some influencers won’t tell you about the Cotswolds, and giving you five honest reasons you should (or absolutely should not) visit. Keep reading to decide if the Cotswolds is your dream destination or one that looks better in movies than in your PTO calendar.

Why Visit the Cotswolds

I had the Cotswolds on my dream destination list for years. Where that dream started, I truly have no idea. But I’d be lying if I didn’t blame the very specific fantasy of spending a snowy Christmas in an old stone cottage à la Cameron Diaz in The Holiday. So when the opportunity arose to live out my own cozy countryside moment, I jumped on it.

The Cotswolds is a large collection of towns, villages, and countryside about two hours west of London in England. What surrounds the villages is just as important as what’s inside them. Each town has its own history, its own church (I’m convinced every single village has one), and at least one pub anchoring the community.

The region is officially designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), which means the rolling hills, farmland, and countryside aren’t just pretty, they’re protected. The honey-colored Cotswold stone used throughout the villages ties everything together visually, making it feel like you’ve wandered into a storybook that forgot to modernize.

The Reasons You Should (or Shouldn’t) Visit

Despite having the Cotswolds on my bucket list for years, I was still surprised by what I found, and what I didn’t. To be very clear, I loved every moment and would return in a heartbeat. My husband? He does not need to go back. He didn’t hate it, it just wasn’t his place.

That’s where this post comes in.

Below are five reasons to help you decide if you’re saying “yes, absolutely, give me the Cotswolds” or if this is a destination that’s been overly romanticized by picturesque movies and eager influencers and you’d rather spend your PTO elsewhere. And listen: it is completely okay if this destination isn’t for you. Update Later Travel is judgment-free. I just want you traveling somewhere you’ll actually enjoy.

You Like Slow Travel

My days in the Cotswolds looked like this (and yes, this is my ideal pace of life):

• Driving through rolling countryside and narrow, tree-lined lanes
  
• Finding the paid parking lot in town
  
• Downloading a different parking app in every village and paying for 1–2 hours
  
• Strolling picturesque streets
  
• Popping into shops: homewares, chocolate, Cotswold wool, local goods
  
• Visiting “the sights,” which usually meant an ancient church, a historic pub, or stone buildings older than my country
  
• Grabbing a coffee, pastry, or lunch at whichever café looked the cutest
  
• Driving to the next town and doing it all again
  

You down?

If that itinerary sounds delightful (this is where I personally thrive), then the Cotswolds is absolutely for you.

If you prefer all-inclusive beach resorts, jam-packed schedules, adrenaline activities, or jaw-dropping historical landmarks that demand awe, the Cotswolds will likely leave you underwhelmed. This is not a thrill-seeker destination. It’s a meander-and-vibe destination.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

You Don’t Mind Driving

I’ve learned that many of my bucket-list destinations share one trait: they’re best explored by car. The Irish countryside, the Cornish coast, ancient ruins in Morocco, all possible with public transportation, but infinitely easier with a car.

The Cotswolds is technically approachable by public transport. From London, you can train to towns like Cheltenham or Moreton-in-Marsh, and buses connect many villages. The region is actively trying to improve accessibility with initiatives like the Cotswolds Pass.

However.

Buses (Pulham’s and Stagecoach) run infrequently, can be packed, and aren’t especially efficient. If you’re relying solely on public transport, visiting more than one town per day can feel unrealistic. Having a car gives you freedom, flexibility, and the ability to actually follow the dreamy itinerary you imagined.

If renting a car and driving on the left doesn’t faze you, the Cotswolds will be a joy. If driving abroad is a hard no, this destination may test your patience. If you’re on the fence, read over my guide about renting a car abroad and driving on the left to hopefully diminish nerves about foreign car rentals.

Window Shopping Sparks Joy

Some towns, like Cheltenham or Stow-on-the-Wold, can easily fill half a day or more with walking paths, dining, and sights. But once you’ve seen the church and wandered the countryside, what’s left to do? You shop.

Luckily, the Cotswolds excels at shopping in a very specific way. We’re not talking Zara or chain stores. Think handmade soaps, tea towels with Cotswolds maps, scarves and sweaters from local sheep, independent bookstores, and yes, Cotswolds cheese shops.

If you love poking your head into small shops, valuing locally made goods, hunting for souvenirs or Christmas gifts, or wandering stores just to see what exists, you’ll love it here. If you like flipping through books you’ve never heard of, discovering local authors, and adding irresponsibly to your TBR, the Cotswolds will treat you well.

If, however, you’re like my husband and truly do not need another tea towel or lotion handmade by Sally from Winchcombe, the charm may wear thin.

History and Context Is Cool (Even If It’s Subtle)

You won’t find the Sistine Chapel or the Parthenon in the Cotswolds, but that doesn’t mean history is absent. It’s just quieter.

Nearly every town church carries significance, whether it’s because it dates back to the 1400s (like St. Peter’s Church in Winchcombe) or because it inspired Tolkien (hello, St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold). These aren’t headline attractions, they’re slow discoveries.

The region also played a major role in England’s wool trade, which shaped its wealth and architecture. You’ll see remnants of this in structures like the Market Hall in Chipping Campden or the Market Cross in Castle Combe, places where traders once gathered.

And honestly? Almost everything is old. Even the Airbnb cottage we stayed in was over 300 years old. You could tell by the cute but wild staircase. If low-key history and context-rich wandering sounds appealing, you’ll love it. If you want grand cathedrals and museum-level artifacts, look elsewhere.

You’re Okay With Rain, Mud, and Wellies

Beyond villages and pubs, the Cotswolds is known for its walking and hiking paths. Every town seems to have an adventure just beyond its edge, rolling fields, stone stiles, sheep-dotted hillsides.

At one point, I genuinely felt like Elizabeth Bennet trudging through a muddy field to meet Mr. Darcy. Sorry for the niche reference, but it’s Darcy season and I refuse to apologize.

Winchcombe hosts a walking festival every spring. The Cotswold Way is a long-distance trail stretching over 100 miles from Chipping Campden to Bath. Popular routes connect towns like Stow-on-the-Wold to Bourton-on-the-Water or Upper and Lower Slaughter. Then there’s the Monarch’s Way, weaving history into countryside miles.

If muddy boots, green fields, historic monuments in the middle of the countryside and working up a light sweat sound appealing, you’ll be in heaven. You could spend an entire week walking the Cotswolds and barely scratch the surface.

If you prefer sunshine, sandals, and staying clean, this may not be your place.

The Bottom Line

The Cotswolds is a beautiful, charming destination, for the right person. I would hate for someone to travel all the way there only to realize that slow village strolling and muddy country lanes were not what they envisioned.

And that is completely okay.

The world is massive, and there is truly something out there for everyone. Keep exploring the blog, your next dream trip might be just a few clicks away.

The post 5 Reasons You Should or Shouldn’t Visit the Cotswolds appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Well, the title pretty much reveals it all. On the first day of our trip in Morocco, someone stole my phone. It was snatched straight from my pocket in Marrakech, before I even had time to fully process that I had arrived in Africa. While this unfortunate incident had the potential to completely derail the trip and leave me bitter, angry, and swearing I would never return, I eventually found moments and opportunities to retrain my thinking. Instead of sinking into a “woe is me” spiral, I tried to ask myself, what can I gain from this? Read on to find out what I learned visiting Morocco.

I didn’t let it ruin my trip by choosing adaptation over anger, leaning on the people around me and refusing to let one bad moment define ten days of travel. I learned a lot during my ten-day trip to Morocco. Not just about Islam, history, the royal family, or Moroccan traditions, but about resilience, adaptability, and the generosity of people who had absolutely no obligation to help me. What started as a stressful loss quickly became a lesson in perspective. Read on for the full story and check out my full Morocco Guide here.

How It Happened

We were on a guided tour of the medina in Marrakech. It was our first day, and it was raining heavily, one of those gray, wet days where everyone is walking with umbrellas and their heads down. We had barely started our walk through town when we arrived at the Ben Youssef Madrasa and began waiting in line to enter.

Our guide, Hafid, had an inside line. We just needed to get past the crowd, pay, and explore. Outside the Madrasa a large group of people were waiting making movement slow and chaotic. It was the perfect environment for a thief to take advantage of my petite size, the dense crowd, and the umbrella coverage that blocked cameras.

At some point, he slipped his hand into my coat pocket. I did not feel it. And just as he stepped away, I found myself trapped between groups of people, unable to move freely. Being small didn’t help the situation. Looking up and only seeing other bodies towering shifted my thinking to urgently breaking out of the group, not to where my belongings were.

Finally reaching my husband and our guide Hafid I began to notice the lightness of my pocket. My realization was, my phone was missing and so was the thief.

The Aftermath

We spent the next three hours of our tour chasing the phone via Find My iPhone and filing a police report. To my surprise, the police in Morocco are actually quite skilled at tracking down thieves and retrieving stolen items like purses, phones, and cameras. While I was told this “rarely happens,” I also heard a few hopeful stories of stolen phones and bags being recovered and returned.

To say I was disappointed would be an understatement. This happened right after Christmas and just before my birthday, which meant I was suddenly out of touch with family and friends during a special time of year. My entire life lives on my phone. And while maybe it should not, it does. I document everything, especially while traveling, so losing it complicated what was already a big, meaningful moment for me. Our first trip to Africa, no less.

Still, while inconvenient, expensive, and incredibly annoying, I was determined not to let this be the through line of our ten-day adventure in Morocco.

A Future Return

I would be lying if I said that having my phone stolen did not at least slightly break me. And honestly, it almost broke my husband too. I had him constantly checking my phone’s location, and as the week progressed and we started sharing “our phone” (his phone). As you can imagine, he loved that phrasing.

But it is the people of Morocco, thieves not included, who make me want to come back.

Our guide in Marrakech, Hafid. Our driver, Youssef. The owner of our tour company, Ismail. Even the police officer assigned to our case, also named Youssef. All of them worked tirelessly trying to help recover my phone. None of them brushed it off. None of them minimized it. A guided trip you say? Yes I took a guided tour, as someone who prides herself on excellent planning skills. You can read here how we ended up on this tour and my honest review.

The Helpers

Youssef, our driver, went above and beyond to make sure the rest of our trip was absolutely epic. We had a homemade lunch with his family, which was hands down the highlight of the trip. We rode camels in the Sahara, watched the sun set in the mountain town of Chefchaouen, and bought rugs in the souks of Fes. On top of all that we made roadside stops in canyons and Kasbahs, stayed in a luxury eco camp where I flexed my French language skills and enjoyed a bottle of wine.

Ismail kept me updated on what was happening with the police back in Marrakech and Hafid remained available in case the phone resurfaced.

What struck me most was how seriously everyone took the situation. Theft was not brushed off or normalized. It was treated as something shameful, something that reflected poorly on the country as a whole. Morocco is deeply communal and I felt that in the way people showed up for me. Not because they had to, but because they wanted to make things right. That sense of collective responsibility stayed with me long after the phone stopped pinging on a map.

What I Learned Visiting Morocco: Adaptation

Traveling the world is great for a lot of reasons. You learn about new cultures and ways of life. You expand your horizons. You experience the unexpected. You see corners of the earth that permanently change your brain chemistry.

But what people talk about less is how travel makes you a better human.

Yes, you learn appreciation. You learn to enjoy the small things and feel grateful for what you have. But travel also teaches you resilience, flexibility, and how to embrace the unknown. You learn to control what you can and adapt to what you cannot. You learn how to roll with the punches and treat challenges as opportunities to grow.

Over time, this becomes a superpower. These skills quietly bleed into every other area of life, relationships, career, family, and self-trust.

What I Learned Visiting Morocco: Protection

This situation was unusual for me. I am well traveled and thankfully, my phone had not been stolen since I was 21 and stupidly set it on a table at a club. I am generally aware of my surroundings. I listen to my gut. I keep my belongings close and out of sight.

In fact, earlier that morning while walking through the Marrakech souk, I noticed a woman walking very closely behind me for an extended period of time. My instincts kicked in, and I rearranged my purse so it was under my coat.

This situation was a perfect storm. A crowded area, umbrellas, being physically trapped within a group of people. I was so focused on not getting crushed that I did not check my pocket. I was not holding my phone. It was sitting loosely, completely vulnerable.

And yes, my phone case was neon yellow. Rookie move.

Safety While Traveling

I know this might feel like a lot of emphasis on one lost phone, but losing it abroad taught me more in a few hours than years of smooth, uneventful trips ever have.

If you have been rolling your eyes this entire post and thinking I am an idiot for being so vulnerable, I would not blame you. With my phone sitting loosely in my pocket, I was absolutely an easy target.

That said, here are a few things to keep in mind when traveling.

1. Be Prepared

Have pictures of your important documents saved somewhere accessible. This includes boarding passes, passport photos, and visa documents. These can be stored digitally, in hard copy, or shared with your travel partners.

We also learned that phones are highly trackable by their IMEI number, which you can find in your settings. Write this number down and keep it somewhere safe, just in case.

2. Secure Your Stuff

Wear a purse or bag with a strong zipper and keep it in front of your body where you can see it. Even better, American Fille (American living in Paris who outs all the scams around the city) recommends carrying a tote bag (like this cute one you can customize!). Thieves would have to reach deep into the bag, essentially into your armpit, to grab anything. It is awkward and unlikely.

3. Leave Expensive Things Behind

Leave laptops, tablets, and other expensive items locked in your hotel safe. There is no reason to carry everything you own while sightseeing.

4. Stay Vigilant

Crowds and commotions are prime opportunities for theft. Public transit is especially risky, particularly when people are getting on or off quickly. Have valuables zipped away and inaccessible.

Also pay close attention when you first arrive in a city. Looking lost while dragging luggage around is an easy target.

5. Track Your Items

AirTags are worth it. Place them in your purse, backpack, luggage, or even passport holder if it allows.

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What to Do If Your Phone Is Stolen

If you have an iPhone, family sharing is a game changer. My husband and I share locations, which allowed us to see the phone in real time and relay updates to the police. Waiting to log in on a computer would have delayed everything. Here are some steps to follow if you lose your phone (sorry Android users!):

• Turn on Lost Mode immediately to disable Apple Pay and protect personal information.

• Contact local law enforcement and file a police report. Even if nothing comes of it, having documentation matters.

• If you leave the country or give up hope, use the erase phone feature. You can still track its location afterward.

• If you have AppleCare, file a lost phone claim.

• Change passwords, especially your Apple ID.

• Set up a shortcut. There are options online that require Face ID for airplane mode or triggers alerts when a phone is stolen. Read below on how to set up an automation that would have helped find my phone faster.

Stolen Phone Shortcut

This shortcut is triggered by a message, in our case “lost phone,” and activates low power mode, takes a photo of the person holding the phone, and sends the location to a trusted contact. Make sure to give this a test run and work out any bugs with the automation before depending on it. I wish I had known about it sooner.

Why I’d Go Back

It would be easy to let the loss of my phone define my experience in Morocco. To lump everyone into one untrustworthy category. But as I told my mom before our trip, there are just as many scams and thieves in Paris.

I chose to treat this experience as a lesson rather than a failure.

The Positives

I made friends with countless street cats, dogs, and shop cats. Special shoutout to Mimi at the rug shop. After seven years of drought, Morocco finally received rain and snow. I saw more snow driving through the Atlas Mountains than I have in years. We shared a traditional meal with our driver’s family in their home. Despite the language barrier, some things transcend culture. Parents showing YouTube videos to their kids and younger siblings being glued to phones.

The food was incredible, from roadside cafes to tiny souk stalls to elaborate breakfasts and traditional tagine. I fell completely in love with Chefchaouen. I learned endlessly about Islam, Moroccan values, the royal family, colonization, and ancient history. I left more knowledgeable than I arrived.

And above all, the people were kind, helpful, and accommodating.

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The Bottom Line

I will return to Morocco. For the people, the culture, the history, and because I barely scratched the surface. Not letting this experience ruin my trip wasn’t about pretending it didn’t happen. It was about choosing what I carried home with me. Not every trip is perfect, but there is almost always something meaningful to take away if you let yourself see it.

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I like to think of Morocco as the perfect little appetizer to exploring Africa. While parts of the country still fall into the “developing” country category, most of the places you’ll visit are surprisingly approachable and easy to navigate. You can spend your time in Morocco checking off historic sights like the Ben Youssef Madrasa in Marrakech, learning about Islamic culture through stunning mosques, adventuring in the mountains (yes, the ones that get snow in winter), and riding camels through the Sahara in the south.

The contrasts are what make Morocco so compelling. One moment you’re weaving through narrow, rustic alleyways in the souks, and the next you’re strolling pristine, palm-lined streets in Rabat. It’s a country of opposites, and that tension is exactly what makes the adventure feel exciting and alive. Keep reading for my Morocco travel guide and everything you should know before you go.

Setting Expectations

One of the best parts of traveling is stepping into a culture that already exists and learning how to move within it. Whether that’s the nonstop hustle of New York City or a place where daily life pauses for prayer, meals, and family, you’re being dropped into someone else’s rhythm. That’s the whole point.

That said, expectations matter. Morocco is not London, Paris, or anywhere else in Western Europe, and you shouldn’t arrive expecting it to operate the same way. Things may run on a different schedule, conveniences may look different, and logic (at least your logic) may not always apply. If you’re using this guide to plan your trip, temper what you think Morocco is about and leave room for what it actually is. The more flexible you are, the better experience you’ll have.

Language FYI

The primary language spoken in Morocco is Arabic, and a large portion of the population also speaks Berber, an indigenous language with several regional dialects. Because of French colonization in the 19th century, French is widely spoken and used throughout the country.

With tourism increasing every year, English is becoming more common, especially in major cities. Some locals even believe that French will eventually be phased out in favor of English over the next few decades. That said, most street signs, menus, official information, and place names are still written in French and Arabic.

I speak decent French, but honestly didn’t find many opportunities to use it. In some cases people didn’t speak French at all, and in others they switched to English after a few words. Just to add an extra layer of confusion, if you spend time in the north, especially in places like Chefchaouen, you may hear a lot of Spanish. This comes from Morocco’s long Andalusian connection with Spain. At its narrowest point, Spain and Morocco are only 14 kilometers apart across the Strait of Gibraltar, and their shared history dates back to 711.

Moral of the story: you’ll be totally fine speaking English in many parts of Morocco. Once you venture into smaller towns or rural areas, communication can be more challenging. If you’re planning to drive, note that many street and highway signs are only in French and/or Arabic.

Who Should Go to Morocco

Morocco is an incredible destination, but it’s not for everyone, and that’s okay. Here’s who I think will genuinely enjoy a trip to Morocco.

If you want an easy entry point into exploring Africa, Morocco is a great choice. The major cities are very tourist-friendly, and people are generally accommodating and welcoming. There’s also a huge variety of tour options, from guided walks through the souks to multi-day desert trips, which makes logistics much easier if you’re feeling overwhelmed by planning.

The proximity to Europe is a major bonus. Yes, it’s a long haul from the US, but Morocco is incredibly easy to tack onto a European trip. Marrakech is about a two-hour flight from Spain or France, making it a great long weekend destination or a natural extension of a Europe itinerary.

If you love experiencing new cultures, food, and ways of life, Morocco will absolutely light you up. This was my favorite part of the trip. I’m an easily impressed, lifelong learner who nerds out over history, religion, and the small details that make a place what it is. I loved having guides in Marrakech, Fes, and Volubilis, learning about Greek and Roman gods, Islamic traditions, art, and daily life.

Morocco is also a great destination if you’re easygoing and adaptable. Plans may change due to cultural traditions, road closures, or shifting schedules. While that can happen anywhere, flexibility really matters here. If you’re dead set on eating at a specific restaurant at a specific time, just know it might be closed for prayer, especially on Fridays around lunchtime.

If budget is a concern, Morocco is very manageable once you arrive. Flights from the US can be expensive, but daily costs are reasonable. Shopping in the souks can add up quickly, but in general a very nice dinner might cost around $50, and the best lunch I had was under $5. Tipping will take up part of your budget, but it doesn’t need to be excessive. I’ll break that down later in this guide.

How Long to Spend in Morocco

You could absolutely hop over to Marrakech for a long weekend and feel like you got a taste of Morocco. Or you could spend a full month exploring cities, deserts, mountains, and coastlines. I spent 10 days in Morocco, visited five major cities, went into the Sahara, and made about 15 additional stops along the way. Even then, I missed popular places like Tangier and Essaouira.

Before deciding how long to stay, take a hard look at your Morocco hopes and dreams. While parts of the country are connected by fast trains, most travel between regions is done by car. If you want to see a lot, expect to spend several hours a day driving.

Here’s a rough breakdown of timing:

• Imperial Cities (Marrakech, Fes, Rabat, Meknes): 7–8 days
  
• Imperial Cities + Sahara Desert: 8–10 days
  
• Imperial Cities + Sahara + a coastal town (Essaouira, Tangier): 10–12 days
  
• All of the above plus Casablanca, Ifrane, Atlas Mountains, Chefchaouen: 12–18 days
  

The TL;DR

If you’re thinking, damn, I need two and a half weeks to see Morocco, you’re not wrong. A trip to the Sahara alone will eat up about two full days of driving, eight hours or more each way.

Personally, I think Morocco is worth the hit to your PTO bank. Realistically, a return trip isn’t super likely for most people, and if you rush through destinations you’ll spend more time in transit than actually experiencing them. Slow travel works beautifully in Morocco. You’ll have more energy, enjoy yourself more, and honestly, no one wants to live in a car that much anyway.

Where to Visit in Morocco

Let’s talk about where you should actually visit in Morocco and why. This section is meant to help you narrow your focus and build an itinerary that makes sense for your travel style, not just one that looks good on Instagram.

Imperial Cities

Rabat is the capital of Morocco, and yes, you can absolutely tell. This is home to the King of Morocco, and while you can’t go inside the palace, you can see the exterior, gardens, and grounds, along with the impressive number of guards protecting the complex. The city itself feels orderly and polished, with pristine streets, a beautiful kasbah overlooking the water, the iconic Hassan Tower, and the smaller sister city of Salé sitting just across the river.

Marrakech is the tourist capital of Morocco and the most commonly visited city in the country. It’s an excellent starting point for first-time visitors thanks to the sheer number of sights, gardens, riads, and experiences packed into one place. Add in the massive souk (where you will absolutely get lost at least once) and Marrakech becomes an essential stop on almost any Moroccan itinerary.

While many people assume they’ll just “do Marrakech,” Fes has so much to offer. From its ancient city walls to the traditional leather tanneries and intricate tilework, Fes feels deeply historical and lived-in. Fun fact: one of the vats in the tanneries is filled with pigeon poop. Its acidity helps soften the leather. Disgusting? Yes. Fascinating? Also yes.

Meknes is a city you may not have heard of yet, and that’s part of the appeal. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is quieter and feels more authentic compared to the other imperial cities. It sees fewer tourists and offers a slower pace, making it a great contrast stop. While you’re here, don’t miss the nearby ancient ruins of Volubilis, they’re absolutely worth the detour.

Coastal Stops

Essaouira is a fantastic coastal stop, especially for first-time visitors who want a break from the intensity of Morocco’s medinas. It’s well developed but still charming, with a historic old town, relaxed vibe, and easy beach access. While the wind can make it less ideal for sunbathing and swimming, it’s perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing. If you’re looking to decompress after Fes or Marrakech, Essaouira is your girl.

Agadir is a totally different coastal experience. It’s large, modern, and very developed, ideal if you’re craving a resort-style stay. The downtown area is filled with contemporary cafés, restaurants, and shopping, and the main beach stretches for about 12 kilometers, so there’s plenty of space to spread out.

Al Hoceima, located in northern Morocco along the Mediterranean, is known for its isolated beaches, views of the Rif Mountains, and reputation for being both clean and safe. It’s quieter and less touristy, with colonial-inspired architecture in town and stunning beach stops in between.

Tangier is… a mixed bag. Some people love it, others really don’t. The infrastructure isn’t great, which can make getting around feel frustrating and time-consuming. That said, its proximity to Spain makes it an interesting option for day trips or short stays, especially if you’re hopping between Europe and Africa.

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Mountains & Desert

You would be seriously remiss not to stick your toes in the dunes of the Sahara while visiting Morocco. Yes, the drive to Merzouga or Zagora from Marrakech is long, but when else are you going to casually say you went to the Sahara? The sunsets and sunrises are unreal, and a camel ride through the desert is a true once-in-a-lifetime experience. Spend a night glamping, eat dinner under the stars, bada bing bada boom, you did it.

Ifrane, located in the Atlas Mountains, is often called “Little Switzerland,” and honestly, it earns the nickname. With alpine-style architecture, ski opportunities, forests, and waterfalls, it feels wildly out of place in the best way possible. Go for a hike, ski if that’s your thing, and keep an eye out for Barbary macaque monkeys in Ifrane National Park.

Stops Along the Way

Not every destination needs an overnight stay. Some places are perfect for hopping out of the car, soaking it in, and moving on. These stops are worth it for their beauty and because they’re uniquely Moroccan:

• Ouzoud Falls: stunning waterfalls near Marrakech
  
• Dades Gorge: a rugged, rock-lined gorge carved by the Dades River—think Zion National Park vibes
  
• Aït Ben Haddou: a famous kasbah used as a filming location for Game of Thrones and Gladiator
  
• Dades Valley: a scenic drive through winding mountain roads and dramatic red rock landscapes
  
• Volubilis: ancient Roman ruins with remarkably preserved mosaics that will fully transport you out of Morocco
  

Getting Around

There are plenty of ways to explore Morocco, and the best option depends on your itinerary and comfort level.

• Trains (ONCF): Reliable and efficient for major routes. There are only a few “fast” trains, but they’re great for city-to-city travel. Splurge for first class on longer rides.
  
• Coaches (CTM and Supratours): A more expansive option than trains. These buses are air-conditioned, practical, and inexpensive if booked in advance and they’ll get you where the train won’t.
  
• Car: Highways and main roads are generally in good shape, but rural roads can be rough. Watch for animals, don’t speed unless you enjoy chatting with the police, and drive cautiously. Hiring a driver is often worth the peace of mind.
  
• Taxi: Ideal for short distances within cities. Close your eyes and hope for the best, it’s chaotic, mildly terrifying, but usually safe in a darkly comedic way. Always ask them to start the meter.
  
• Guides: Guided tours are great for both short excursions and long-haul trips. You can do just the desert or, like I did, a full 10-day guided exploration.
  
• Day Trips: Morocco is prime for day trips. From Marrakech alone you can reach Ouzoud Falls, Lake Takerkoust, Essaouira, and the Atlas Mountains.
  

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What Every Morocco Itinerary Should Include

If this is your first time in Morocco, there are a few essential experiences you should prioritize. Rather than listing city-specific sights (because there will be overlap), let’s talk about the big-picture musts.

Souks

Every city has a souk. Some are small and charming, while others, like those in Marrakech and Fes, can swallow hours of your life. You’ll find everything from slippers and leather jackets to silver lamps, rugs, spices, skincare, and traditional clothing. Even if shopping isn’t your thing, the chaos is worth experiencing. The sights, sounds, smells, and sheer overwhelm are part of the magic.

My one complaint: be aware and prepared while shopping to get the time share presentation. You know the ones. Where you sit patiently as someone pitches you wha they have to offer and have a seriously sour attitude when you decline. This is a bit like shopping in the souks. The artisans in the souks are proud of what they have made and listening to their schpiel is part of the process. Make sure to leave a few Dirhams for a tip if you don’t purchase anything. Whether you wanted it or not, sometimes its best to just accept it and move on.

Mosques

Non-Muslims can’t enter most mosques in Morocco, but the exteriors alone are fascinating. Pay attention to architectural details, entrances, and the symbolism, like the structures on top of mosques that once held green flags representing the Prophet on Fridays and just so happen to look like gallows. You can often peek inside from the doorway, and the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is an absolute must.

Natural Wonders

Morocco is packed with natural beauty, but you don’t need to see everything. Aim for one or two major experiences: the dunes of Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga, waterfalls like Ouzoud, mountain ranges such as the High Atlas or Rif Mountains, and beaches like Plage Sauvage or Legzira.

Hammam

A hammam is equal parts cultural ritual and spa experience. Traditionally, locals would gather in public hammams to bathe, socialize, and scrub each other clean. Today, you’ll find options ranging from public to very private. Expect steam, soaking, and an aggressively thorough scrub with Moroccan black soap that leaves your skin baby-soft and your soul slightly shaken.

The Desert

Yes, I mentioned it already (too many times) but it deserves repeating. A Sahara trek is worth the effort. Most tours include stops in the Atlas Mountains, film studios, and kasbahs used in famous movies before heading into the desert. Once there, it’s all camel rides, chic desert camps, fires, traditional music, and an experience unlike anything else.

Riads

Sure, Morocco has Western-style hotels, but do yourself a favor and stay in a riad. These were once homes of traders and wealthy merchants, many of which have been converted into stunning guesthouses. Rooms are typically on the upper floors, while the ground level features soaring ceilings, intricate mosaics, fountains, and sometimes a plunge pool. Most riads serve a traditional Moroccan breakfast, and honestly, they’re an experience in themselves.

Rooftops

Morocco loves a rooftop terrace, and so should you. Many restaurants and cafés offer panoramic views over the city, so take advantage. There is nothing better than eating lunch in the sunshine while looking out over a sea of rooftops, minarets, and medinas.

Moroccan Architecture

Morocco’s architecture tells its history. The country has been invaded, colonized, and influenced by Spain, Andalusia, Rome, and the Middle East, with Islam shaping much of its artistic expression. You’ll see everything from hand-carved Arabic script from the Quran to centuries-old woodwork and intricate tile patterns. Standout examples include the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V, Bahia Palace, royal palaces in Rabat, the clay structures of Aït Ben Haddou, and the Roman ruins of Volubilis—just to name a few.

Dining

I have to say, my favorite meal in Morocco was not what you’d expect. It was a tiny, hole-in-the-wall spot tucked inside the medina in Fes. No sign, no frills, just grilled meats on skewers, a pita-style bread pocket, and a spicy chili sauce that meant business. You paid for how much you ate. I had 20 dirhams’ worth of chicken (about $2), which was more than enough. My husband went with the kefta, juicy, flavorful, and honestly perfect.

We sat at a small metal table just a few feet from where the guy was grilling our meat. A cat parked itself at our feet, patiently waiting for scraps among the wood shavings covering the floor. From our stools, we watched the world go by: locals hauling propane tanks and wheelbarrows piled high with ingredients, tourists snapping photos, everyone soaking in the sights, sounds, and smells of the medina.

It was cultural. It was authentic. The food was simple, no-nonsense, and phenomenal. The service was warm and effortless. I could have kissed the owner for the entire experience. And in case I didn’t say it clearly enough, the food was impeccable.

What You’ll Find in Morocco

Most riads include breakfast with your stay, and even if you’re usually a black-coffee-and-go kind of person, indulge in the traditional Moroccan breakfast. It typically starts with coffee or mint tea, followed by fresh fruit, an assortment of breads with jams and honey, and made-to-order eggs or omelets. It’s a generous, comforting way to start the day.

Lunch is a follow-your-heart situation. Find a cozy café, or be brave and grab street food. For dinner, you can eat at your riad or head out into the city. Grab a table at a panoramic rooftop or a well-rated local spot and lean into Moroccan staples like tagine, couscous, and brochettes (skewers). If you have your heart set on somewhere specific, reservations can help, but I often made dinner plans just 15 minutes before eating without issue. Dining in Morocco is generally relaxed and straightforward.

Keep reading for tipping info, it matters here.

Tea
Tea is the backbone of Moroccan hospitality. You don’t need to seek it out; it will find you. It’s served while rug shopping, while waiting, and sometimes just because. Ask for it without sugar if that’s your preference, it’s great either way. When in Morocco, drink the tea. Often.

Helpful Hints

Morocco is a sensory overload in the best and worst ways, colors, noise, movement, language barriers, religious customs, cultural norms. It can feel like a lot. These tips will help you stay grounded.

Tipping

This was surprisingly confusing when we arrived. We tipped when we didn’t need to and forgot when we absolutely should have. Tipping is customary in Morocco because many workers rely on it to supplement very low wages. Ignore anyone telling you tipping isn’t necessary.

Also: cash is king. Expecting to rely on cards is… optimistic. Plan to carry cash, more than you think, and use small purchases to build up change for tips.

Here’s a quick, practical breakdown:

• Food stalls: 1–2 dirhams
  
• Restaurants: ~10% of the bill
  
• Taxis: 5–10 dirhams or round up (and always confirm the meter is running)
  
• Multi-day tour driver: 100 dirhams per day
  
• Single-day tour driver: 200 dirhams
  
• Unofficial guides (like at the Fes tanneries): 5–10 dirhams
  
• Street performers (especially for photos): 10–20 dirhams
  
• Public restrooms: 1–3 dirhams
  
• Help with bags at riads/hotels: 5 dirhams
  
• Housekeeping: 10–20 dirhams
  
• Parking attendants: 2–5 dirhams
  
• Rug shop attendants: 100–200 dirhams total if you’re shown rugs
  

Tip well for good service, adjust when needed, and don’t be surprised if some people ask for tips directly or refuse them. When in doubt, be generous if the service was solid.

Maps

Google Maps is my ride-or-die, but even it struggles in Moroccan souks. Expect to get lost. Do not panic. There is always a way out. Ask the police or a shop owner for help, not random people offering to guide you.

Download offline maps, because service is spotty in the medinas. And if you’re in Marrakech, make sure you know what to do when you get to Jemaa el-Fnaa square; most souks eventually funnel you there.

Bargaining

Bargaining is part of the deal in the souks. While many guides suggest starting at 50% of the asking price, I recommend keeping a respectful number in mind. Not every shop owner is selling cheap junk at inflated tourist prices.

Convert the cost into your home currency. If it’s more than you’d reasonably pay, start negotiating. Some owners may get offended or pushy, stay calm, pay only what you’re comfortable with and be willing to walk away.

We visited two incredible rug shops and absolutely overpaid at both. And you know what? I don’t regret it. I have three stunning, handmade Moroccan rugs, detailed care instructions, and direct contact info for the shops. I paid for quality and service, and I’m okay with that trade-off.

Moroccan Scams (and How to Avoid Them)

I don’t want to paint Morocco negatively, but scams exist. If you want to read how my phone was stolen in Morocco and how to keep your phone and important belongings safe while traveling, you can read about it here. Here’s how to sidestep them:

• “Guides”: If someone offers help because you look lost, say “Choukran” (thank you) and keep walking. Following them = expected tip + potential harassment. Ask shop owners for directions instead.
  
• Souk shopping: Ask your riad for reputable shops or hire a guide. Not everything labeled “handmade” actually is. Fake argan oil and imitation saffron are common.
  
• “Official” guides: Lanyards and badges don’t mean legitimacy. Firmly decline unless you’ve booked in advance.
  
• Pickpockets: Learn from my mistakes. Stay alert.
  
• Henna: Some women will “accidentally” spill henna and then pressure you into overpriced designs. Agree on a price beforehand, and only accept dark green/brown henna (black can be harmful).
  
• Hashish dealers: Don’t do drugs in a foreign country just because its there. It’s stupid.
  

Emergency Info (Because It Matters)

Once a nurse, always a nurse, emergency info is non-negotiable:

• Police: 190 or 112
  
• Police (outside cities): 177
  
• Ambulance: 150
  
• Fire department: 15
  

Fun fact: while wandering the narrow alleyways of the Fes medina, I asked our guide what happens if someone has a heart attack in their home between these thin roads. The streets are barely wide enough to walk through. His answer? Donkeys. They use donkeys to carry people out. Whatever works.

When to Visit Morocco

There are limited windows when Morocco is truly enjoyable, and crowds come with them. Do not visit in summer. Temperatures can hit 110°F+, and even with air conditioning, it’s brutal.

Spring and late fall are ideal: warm but manageable, with plenty of sun. Winter is doable, but expect rain and even snow, which can make medinas muddy and unpleasant.

I always preach shoulder season travel, but with Morocco, accept that crowds are part of the deal during the best weather.

The Bottom Line

I hope this Morocco guide made you feel more confident planning your trip and knowing what to expect once you’re there. Morocco is layered, chaotic, beautiful, frustrating, and unforgettable all at once.

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