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Welcome to day 1 of my W Trek travel diary! The W Trek is a 47-mile backpacking route in Chilean Patagonia that winds through rugged mountain terrain, alongside glacial lakes, beneath jagged peaks and over rivers and suspension bridges. The scenery changes constantly, one moment you’re in a shady forest, the next you’re standing on a windy ridge looking at an ice field. Most people complete it in five days, though some seasoned backpackers manage in less.
If you’re reading this, chances are you’re curious about what it’s actually like. Maybe you want a play-by-play of the trek, or maybe you’re just wondering if you could really do it! Backpacking through South America sounds both thrilling and intimidating. I’m here to share my travel diary with you. Over five posts, I’ll break down how each day went for my group, review our Torres del Paine itinerary, and share tips we learned along the way. You’ll get the good, the bad, the lessons learned, and even which Mountain House meals ended up being favorites.
So let’s get into it, Day 1.
Patagonia W Trek Day 1…ready, go!
If you’re still in the planning stages, wondering how to book transportation, refugios, or permits, I wrote a full post that details exactly how we organized our W Trek adventure.
On Day 1, our alarms went off before dawn, though honestly, none of us were sleeping much anyway. The mix of nerves and excitement was real. We had a bus to catch, luggage to store, and a one-kilometer walk to the station before coffee had even fully kicked in. Us by the way, included my two co-workers: Lindsey and Cassandra. Along with them came Lindsey’s girlfriend (now fiancé!) Kate and Cassandra’s med school buddy Denise. The 5 of us comprised our rag tag group of medical professionals adventuring down south to Chile. Now, to continue…
Here’s my first hot Patagonia tip: store your extra luggage at the Puerto Natales bus station. They have a secure storage room, which is far better than leaving bags scattered in a hostel. The downside? It’s paid by the day and per bag, so consolidate as much as possible before checking them in. We had to do some last-minute shuffling, cramming multiple people’s extra clothes into one duffel. Totally worth it for the money savings.
The Bus Ride to Torres del Paine
We had booked our journey from Puerto Natales to the park with Bus Sur, but even so, finding the right bus at the station felt a little chaotic. Dozens of buses were lined up, many headed to the same general area but staggered by 15–30 minutes. For a moment, we weren’t entirely sure if we were putting our bags under the right bus. Eventually, we spotted our number, stashed our packs (hiking poles secured so they wouldn’t snap in transit), and climbed aboard.
The ride to Torres del Paine takes around three hours. The bus wound its way out of Puerto Natales, past grassy plains dotted with sheep and guanacos (a South American llama, so cute!). Slowly, snowcapped mountains began to rise on the horizon. Every so often, I’d catch myself staring out the window, wondering: Is that one of the towers? Is that where we’re headed? The anticipation built with every mile.
About two hours in, the bus stopped at Laguna Amarga. This is where everyone must get off to show paperwork and confirm park admission. If you haven’t bought your ticket yet, you’ll need to do so here, but ideally you’ll have it sorted ahead of time. The process was quick, and the stop was a nice excuse to stretch our legs.
Note: If you’re hiking east to west, Laguna Amarga is your starting point. Because we were going west to east, we had a little more ground to cover before our trek officially began.
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Arrival in Pudeto & Ferry to Paine Grande
From Laguna Amarga, the bus continued to Pudeto. The closer we got, the better the views became, jagged peaks glowing with snow, sweeping valleys dotted with wildlife. Each glimpse of the mountains made me think: This is it. We’re really here. This trip was 4 years (a Covid related cancellation) in the making and it felt surreal to finally be starting this adventure.
At Pudeto, we had about 30 minutes before the ferry departed, so we popped into the small shop to grab snacks and use the bathroom (highly recommend, you never know when your next bathroom break will be).
The ferry across Lake Pehoé is straightforward but worth noting: you can book in advance or just pay 27,000 CLP cash on the boat. The schedule is designed to match bus arrivals, which means if you’ve just hopped off the ferry, you won’t be waiting long. Boarding was casual. We lined up outside of the dock about 15 minutes before the ferry was due to leave. After we boarded the boat, the boat crew stacked all our backpacks in a pile and hikers sprawled across benches, everyone buzzing with anticipation.
The 30-minute ride was stunning. Lake Pehoé shimmered in an unreal shade of turquoise under the sun. The mountains loomed larger with every passing minute. And then, just like that, we were stepping off at Paine Grande, where our trek would truly begin.
Setting Out: Paine Grande to Grey Glacier Refugio
At Paine Grande, the trail splits: take the left path to Paine Grande Refugio, or head right toward Grey Glacier. We snapped a quick group photo, feeling fresh and optimistic, and turned right.
The hike to Grey Glacier Refugio is about 6.8 miles with roughly 1,100 feet of elevation gain and 1,000 feet of loss. On paper, it looked manageable. We had originally thought it was only a net gain of 100 feet, easy, right? But the reality was a rollercoaster of ups and downs. (I even made detailed elevation graphs you can check out here)
The trail began with a small valley followed by a short and steep climb, and almost immediately I started questioning whether I’d trained enough. Even considering “should I drink my water now just to lighten the load?” Important questions. Within minutes of the first incline, I was out of breath, laughing at myself, and answering all those doubts with a quick yep, this is going to be hard.
Weather, Views, and… Sunscreen Fails
We had gorgeous weather this first day, sunny skies, barely a breeze. Honestly, maybe too gorgeous. I had skipped sunscreen that morning, thinking the cool air meant I wouldn’t burn. Wrong. Within an hour, my forearms were slowly roasting.
The payoff, though, was unbeatable. Around mile three, we reached a ridge with sweeping views of Grey Lake. The water looked like melted cotton candy, pale blue, sparkling under the sun. Off in the distance, the massive hulk of Grey Glacier came into view. It looked almost fake, like a giant block of white and blue plopped into the horizon.
Along the way, we crossed a small wooden bridge, passed trickling streams, and wound our way through gentle, rolling terrain. The W Trek is challenging in terms of mileage and endurance, but technically, the trails are very approachable. No ropes, no scrambling or sharp edges, just steady walking with a heavy pack.
The Tough Part of the Hike
Despite the good weather and good company, my mood took a dip. Just a week before we left, my husband and I lost our first dog- Ron Weasley, to cancer. He was only six years old. The shock and grief hit hard, and it came with me on the trail. Combine that with the heavy, melancholic tone of The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue (my trail audiobook of choice) and the difficulty of the climb and I was a puddle.
Luckily, if there is one thing I have learned after my 30+ years 29 years on earth, is that nothing mends a broken heart like your gal pals. While over the last bit of hiking we had all spread out, I waited for the last 2 to catch up and their presence cheered me right up. Sometimes that’s what you need, a pause, a cry and your soul mates in friend form. And afterward, I felt lighter, ready to keep moving forward.
Arrival at Grey Glacier Refugio
After tackling the downhill, stream covered, rocky bit of the trail, we finally approached the descent into Grey Glacier Refugio and it felt like bliss. We had started around 11:30 a.m. and arrived close to 5:00 p.m., tired but relieved. For me, this stretch of the trek ranks third hardest overall. The constant elevation gain and loss made it more draining than expected, and I wasn’t thrilled about having to hike the same section again the next day.
Check-in was easy. Even campers need to register and receive a campsite number. Ours was tucked just far enough away from the main building to feel quiet and peaceful. The refugio itself has three main structures: the main lodge (with bunks and indoor meal service), a bathroom/shower facility, and a combined check-in, camp store and camper dining area. They offered free hot water, and, luxury of luxuries, a sink to wash dishes in.
My biggest complaint, which applied to most refugios, is that campers were left to fend for themselves outside. Indoor space was reserved for those who paid for meals. It makes sense, given the limited facilities, but still, eating dinner outside in the rain feels like a bummer after a long day of hiking.
Bonus Hike: Getting Closer to Grey Glacier
After pitching tents (for sleeping, teehee), we set off for the optional bonus hike to get us up close and personal with the glacier: about 2.4 miles round trip. The trail led through forest and over suspension bridges, each one swaying gently as we crossed. Eventually, the trees opened up to reveal Grey Glacier in all its massive glory.
You can go as far as you like on this extension. Some people push to the very end; others find a rock with a good view and just sit. We stayed for a while, watching the sunset glow against the ice, the lake calm and reflective. It was one of those moments where you have to remind yourself it’s real.
By the time we made it back, it was time for showers (hallelujah) and bed. We’d need the rest, as tomorrow meant retracing our steps back to Paine Grande.
The Bottom Line
Day 1 of the W Trek was full of contrasts: bus rides and ferry crossings, laughter and grief, sunshine and sunburns, exhaustion and awe. The Grey Glacier was a highlight, and while the hike was tougher than expected, it was a strong start to an unforgettable trek.
Continue reading here for Day 2. If you’re still planning, check out my Patagonia “How-To” guide. For inspiration closer to home check out my US National Park Guides.
See you on the trail!
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