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Provence is one of those dreamy destinations you hear about constantly and see all over social media. With gorgeous sun-drenched streets, picturesque lavender fields, and stony ancient villages, it’s kind of a beautiful French fever dream.
While I have been living in France for the past two years, the country is quite large, and hitting all the top French destinations has proved to be a challenge. So when I had the opportunity to spend a weekend in Aix-en-Provence before a two-week trip to the Côte d’Azur, I jumped at the chance.
It ended up being as dreamy as I thought it would be and also the perfect amount of time to dip my toes into the relaxed rhythm of Provence. Let me walk you through a perfect little weekend in Aix-en-Provence that you can add to your next trip to France.
Why Aix-en-Provence
Aix, pronounced like the letter X, is a perfect jumping-off point for exploring Provence. But if you are wondering if it’s worth your time, here are some reasons to visit the region.
It is uniquely French: Yes, while Paris has that je ne sais quoi, it doesn’t feel particularly French to me. And I can say that, as I am now part French after living in the country for the past two years. But Provence is so French, in all the best ways. Markets spilling into town squares, villages perched on hilltops, gorgeous vineyards, countryside that inspired painters like Van Gogh and Cézanne, and seasonal festivals celebrating local traditions. It is France doing the most, but somehow still being effortless about it.
Markets: I briefly mentioned them above, but the markets in Provence go hard. While I love a French market, and every town in France has one, these markets are particularly special. They are vast and full of fresh local produce, but don’t miss the brocante markets with antique dishes, jewelry, records, linens, and things you absolutely do not need but will convince yourself are essential to your new French countryside identity.
Nature: Nature lovers will also be excited to explore the region. With the famous lavender fields blooming roughly from mid-June through July, depending on the area and the year, you could spend an entire week chasing lavender alone. Additionally, you can kayak and hike around the famous Roman aqueduct Pont du Gard or explore the trails around Luberon Regional Nature Park.
Rosé: Yes, wine, of course. We are in France after all. But Provence is especially known for rosé. Provence AOC dedicates the overwhelming majority of its vines to rosé, and the region is one of the most important rosé producers in the world. So yes, go to Provence and drink rosé. It’s a rite of passage.
Aix-en-Provence & villages: While I have talked broadly about Provence as a whole, this guide will focus on a weekend in Aix-en-Provence. But that is not the only part of Provence worth exploring. The Luberon villages like Gordes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, and Saint-Martin-de-Castillon, just to name a few, are great options for seeing different parts of the region.
Getting to Aix-en-Provence
From Paris, getting to Aix-en-Provence couldn’t be easier. There is a direct train that leaves from Gare de Lyon in Paris and arrives at Aix-en-Provence TGV in about three hours. Book your tickets through SNCF either online or within their app, and book in advance for the best prices. The best part of this route is that, despite it being a bit long, there are no connections, so you can just sit back and enjoy the journey.
If you want to join me in being shocked by the size of France, keep reading. This fast train gets you to Provence in about three hours, but if you were to drive from Paris to Aix, it would take over 7.5 hours. Color me shocked and also in need of a quick return to geography class.
If you are visiting Aix on a road trip around the south or around Provence, renting a car is a great option. You can find the best deals at Discover Cars and while smaller companies may be less expensive try and stick with a larger and more reputable company like Hertz, Avis, Enterprise etc.
Where to Stay
Aquabella Hotel & Spa
About $250/night.
One of the few hotels in Aix with a true spa experience, Aquabella stands out for its thermal-style facilities, pool, and garden setting, all just steps from the historic center. Rooms are modern and comfortable, making it a great balance of location and amenities.
Hôtel Cézanne Boutique Hotel
About $220/night.
A polished boutique option just a short walk from the historic center, Hôtel Cézanne offers a more contemporary take on staying in Aix. The rooms are clean and modern with subtle artistic touches, a nod to Cézanne himself, and the overall feel is calm and well put together.
There’s a small spa area and an on-site bar/lounge, which gives it a little more than your typical boutique stay. It’s a great middle-ground option: central, comfortable, and slightly elevated without trying too hard. This is where I stayed in Aix-en-Provence and enjoying an espresso from my little balcony, with the sounds of the birds and sun shining in, was extremely picturesque.
Hotel Escaletto
About $180/night.
A simple but well-designed hotel right in the historic center. The rooftop terrace is the main draw, offering views over Aix’s terracotta rooftops. Rooms are minimal and clean, making this a great value option that still feels intentional.
Day 1: Welcome to Provence
The Morning
Start your day, as every day should in my opinion, with coffee. Pop into a bakery like Maison Mooks, or take your time with a French brunch situation at Maison Nosh.
Once you are caffeinated and energized, head to Fontaine de la Rotonde. Aix is known as the City of a Thousand Fountains, and this is the biggest and most impressive fountain in Aix-en-Provence.
Continue your walk down the tree-lined Cours Mirabeau. If you are here on a Saturday, you’ll be right in the middle of a large market full of clothes, records, antiques, and artisanal items. But make sure to turn off the main drag and explore the sweet side streets too. Aix is the kind of place where the best moments are usually hiding one street over.
Stop at Maison Béchard to pick up a package of calissons, the diamond-shaped almond and candied melon sweets that are famous in the region.
Make sure to stroll by the picturesque squares of Place des Prêcheurs and Place d’Albertas.
Afternoon
When you’re shopped and strolled out, head to Le Jambon Beurre for a delicious and typical French sandwich. Then wait in the nearby line for warm, fresh madeleines from Madeleines de Christophe. Trust me on this. This sandwich-and-madeleine combination is the kind of casual lunch that will have you wondering why every meal can’t be this simple and this perfect.
After, walk past Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, which is on your way to the next destination. Walk into the church, and if it’s the weekend, enjoy the small art market in the surrounding square.
After a quick stop at the cathedral, continue on to Atelier de Cézanne, tucked away north of the historic center. Follow the “C” plaques in the ground along the Cézanne walking route to get there. This was Cézanne’s final studio, and while it doesn’t hold a huge collection of his paintings, it gives you a more intimate look at the objects, space, and quiet daily world surrounding his work.
Evening
After exploring, either head back to your accommodations to regroup or go to La Méduse for a pre-dinner drink and snack.
A few nearby dinner options would be Mammo, Les Galinas, or Grenache. If you want to head closer to the center, check out Le Kemia, which puts you right in the evening hustle of town.
If you are looking for a nightcap, check out Bar à Bières or pop into one of the many English or Irish pubs that surround the area.
Day 2: Hit the Sights
Morning
If you are looking for a quicker breakfast, grab coffee and a pastry at Farinoman Fou. If you are wanting a fuller breakfast, head to Cava Brunchynomie.
Next, we are heading out for a museum day. On your way, stroll by Fontaine des Trois Ormeaux. As you pass the Palais de Justice, you’ll end up walking through Passage Agard. Continue past Fontaine du Roi René, and eventually you’ll end up at Rue d’Italie. Walk down this street and check out all the shops and restaurants on your way.
Finally, you’ll end at Église Saint-Jean-de-Malte. Free to enter, this historic church is absolutely worth a quick bop inside.
Then visit Musée Granet. Enjoy seeing some of the best painters of France here, including works connected to Cézanne and other major artists. It’s a great museum without being one of those exhausting mega-museums where you leave needing a snack, a nap, and a new personality.
Afternoon
After hitting so many spots this morning, you may be ready for lunch. Check out La Brocherie or Focaccia Novettino for something more casual.
Grab an afternoon pick-me-up at Book in Bar while browsing the large selection of books, many of them in English. I am an avid Kindle user because I simply do not have the space to store all the books my little heart desires. But I still love to visit a bookstore in every city I visit.
I feel like bookshops tell a story of the town: what’s important, what’s popular in the moment, what people are reading, even if all the books are in a different language. And when I have the space or feel especially compelled, I will buy a book as a souvenir to remember my visit. On our trip to Provence, I walked out of Book in Bar with a French short story book to help with my language skills. Growth, but make it charming.
Next, check out Hôtel de Caumont or the Gallifet Art Center. If you decide on Hôtel de Caumont, you could opt for a visit and lunch at their café. Regardless, make sure you head out to the beautiful gardens.
If you still have the energy to continue exploring, head down to Parc Jourdan.
Evening
If you are hoping for a splurge dinner, check out La Table de la Pierre Reboul. Otherwise, check out Tandem, or if you want a more Mediterranean experience, try Tita.
End your evening with a nightcap at Back to Bac.
Optional Day 3: Explore the Provençal Region
While a weekend is, in my opinion, the perfect amount of time to spend in Aix-en-Provence, it doesn’t leave a ton of time for exploring the surrounding area. Here is how I would potentially spend a third day visiting the region.
Wine Tasting
I mentioned rosé above, and so I would be remiss to leave out wine tasting options. If you have rented a car to explore the region, there are a number of wineries within 30 minutes of Aix-en-Provence to add to your list. Check out Château de la Gaude, Domaine Terre de Mistral, or Château de Trois Sautets.
If you would prefer to have someone else do the heavy lifting, there are a number of amazing wine tours you can book instead.
Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓
Lavender Field Tromping
If you are visiting Provence in the heart of summer, you likely have a lavender field visit on your itinerary. I wrote all about visiting the lavender fields, complete with a map that includes 20 different fields to visit, in my full Aix-en-Provence guide.
Aix-en-Provence, France Destination Guide
Discover markets, cafés, and Provençal charm with the Aix-en-Provence destination guide. Includes transport tips, dining, top sights, and a curated itinerary.
There are four main lavender regions to explore. Here is an overview of blooming times, but just remember every year is different and the exact timing depends on weather.
Valensole Plateau: Bloom typically starts in mid-June and lasts about a month, with peak bloom often in late June or early July. Visit the town of Valensole in mid-July to join the Lavender Festival.
Luberon Valley: Home to picturesque villages, the Luberon region has a combination of lavender fields, hilltop villages, and rolling hills. Early July is often a great time to see lavender near parts of the Luberon and around Aix.
Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓
Sault Plateau: Set at a higher altitude, these blooms usually peak later, often from mid-July into early August. Don’t miss the Lavender Festival in Sault on August 15 every year.
Drôme: A lesser-known region, with blooms often best from mid-June through late July depending on the area.
Again, if you haven’t rented a car for your visit, check out some of the great lavender field tours available from Aix.
Luberon Villages
I hate to be repetitive, but there are two main options for visiting the Luberon villages outside Aix-en-Provence. If you have rented a car, you’re free to explore. Otherwise, grab a well-rated tour for a day trip outside the city.
Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓
Most Beautiful Villages of France
Yes, this is an actual title. And boy, wouldn’t you love to be one of the towns with it? However, with the title comes the crowds, so make sure to mix a few of these beautiful spots with some lesser-known and therefore less crowded villages.
Here is an overview of some villages and why they are worth the stop.
- Gordes: Perched on a hilltop, Gordes is one of the most famous Luberon villages. Walk through the narrow cobblestoned streets lined with cafés, galleries, and shops, and don’t miss stopping at Château de Gordes, which has views of the surrounding valley.
- Roussillon: Famous for its ochre cliffs, you’ll be surrounded by shades of red, yellow, and orange during your visit. The color comes from local ochre deposits that have been harvested for centuries.
- L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: This village is known as the Venice of Provence. Seriously, you get one canal in town and suddenly you’re “the Venice of” or “little Venice.” That said, the riverside cafés, waterwheels, antique shops, and pretty buildings do make it very charming. Stroll in the morning or evening for the best atmosphere.
- Ménerbes: While the village is small, the surrounding panoramic vistas are huge. It’s worth a pit stop, especially at sunset when you can sit and admire the sun going down over the serene valley. Don’t sleep on wine here either. There are many nearby domaines, like Domaine de la Citadelle, which is also home to a corkscrew museum, Domaine de Marie, and plenty of wine tasting spots in the village.
- Bonnieux: Located on a hillside, the terraced layout of the town makes a stroll through it that much more interesting. This town is also home to several excellent restaurants and a wealth of other great eateries.
- Saignon: This is a must-stop for lavender fans. You’re in the heart of the lavender region, and if you have a car, just driving around the area will lead you to a wealth of lavender fields.
- Rustrel: Outdoor lovers, unite. This town is known for the Colorado Provençal. With impressive ochre rock formations and canyon-like landscapes, you will have no trouble finding adventure here. Check out some of the hiking options if you want to stretch your legs.
Honorable Mentions
- Goult
- Lacoste
- Apt
- Oppède-le-Vieux
The Bottom Line
You really can’t go wrong with a visit to Provence. Whether you are only able to visit for a day or explore the whole region thoroughly over a week or two, the most important part is that you go.
Aix-en-Provence is a perfect weekend destination, and now you have some inspiration for how to extend the trip into the villages, wine country, lavender fields, or day trip experiences.
If you have any questions, I always love to help fellow travelers with their itineraries and plans. As always, reach out to me on Instagram or email me at jess@updatelater.com with questions.
