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I would describe myself as an anxious packer. Here are the demands I place on myself with every trip:

• An outfit for every day, some backup shirts in case I spill coffee, which is both unfortunate and alarmingly common, especially when I’m wearing white.

• A workout outfit and shoes, because what if I want to go for a run?

• I also don’t want my suitcase to be barely closable or feel like I have no space. I am a maximalist packer who wants to fit into a minimalist bag. The fact that my favorite Away bag claims it fits five to six outfits is laughable. Five to six outfits for whom? A cartoon character with no range?

So when it came time to pack for three weeks in South America, including five days of backpacking clothes meant to accommodate every season, because yes, you really can see everything in Torres del Paine, the stress level was high. But through thorough and detailed planning, I actually packed nearly perfectly for Patagonia.

Read on to find out what went on my Patagonia W-trek packing list and, maybe more importantly, what was left behind.

The Plan

We visited Patagonia during February and planned to backpack for 5 days as well as have some city time in Santiago to round out the trip. Overall, the plan was:

• Fly to Puerto Natales
• Hike the W-Trek over five days
• Pick up a rental car and drive to El Calafate
• Drive to El Chaltén
• Drive back to Puerto Natales
• Fly to Santiago
• Fly home

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The itinerary looks simple and straight to the point. Our total time away was 18 days. But here were the factors we had to consider:

• Needed gear for all seasons. You should expect nearly everything on the W-Trek except snow, depending on the season.
• Clothes for walking around Santiago, which was going to be warm (and I wanted to look cute!)
• Travel clothes for long flights and bus rides.
• Space. Not only did I need to pack clothes, but gear as well for camping and the bulk of my meals for the trek.
• Car space. We were five girls renting a small crossover-type SUV, and somehow all of our gear had to fit in the trunk.

So with all of those factors combined, packing became the equivalent of solving a 1,000-piece puzzle. But as a type-A, Capricorn planner, this was a task I was more than ready to take on.

The Bag Breakdown

Let’s start with my packing vessels before we dive into what actually filled them.

Of course, backpacking required a specific backpack. The most important thing when you are considering buying a pack to trek through the mountains is the fit. I highly recommend visiting an REI and getting properly fitted for a backpack. Be open to buying something you hadn’t originally considered. I am a petite 5’1″, and getting fitted was essential.

Years ago, hiking on Mt. Hood in Oregon, I borrowed a friend’s backpack that left me with bruising all over my sides and a lot of back pain because she had about six inches on me. That experience alone sold me on the importance of getting the right fit. I ended up with the right pack for my frame after trying on a few options at REI, and it made all the difference.

Other things to consider with a backpack: if you are planning on doing day hikes during your trip, consider a bag with a removable top that turns into a daypack. Other than fit and function, a rain fly that comes with the bag is absolutely essential.

I ended up with the Osprey 55L Ariel Backpack in an extra small/small. Don’t forget you’ll need and want a bag for your bag. You definitely don’t want to send a backpack with all its straps and doo-dads through the checked luggage system. Grab a duffel like this one to protect your bag.

Packing Cubes

I use packing cubes regularly and somehow now own three different sets of them, which feels excessive but also deeply on brand.

Initially, my in-laws gifted me a starter set, which was perfect. Then I bought the Away packing cubes, thinking that since they were made for the suitcase they would absolutely level up my packing game. Then I got influenced by Instagram and started using compression packing cubes.

Dear God, who needs this many packing cubes?

But here is what I’ve learned about using them:

• Sometimes the small ones are the most valuable. Yes, maybe this little cube only holds five pairs of socks, but having those socks contained in their own neat little world can make the feng shui of your bag significantly better.

• Don’t overfill the cube. Packing cubes are inefficient and not really worth it if you are just jam-packing them full of oddly folded items. The trick is folding and fitting your items to the size of the cube so the shape actually works for you.

• And honestly, having a variety of cubes is the move. While the bag of bags I now own to hold all these cubes is slightly ridiculous, I do love having different sizes and compression options for different types of trips. For optimal packing, diversify your packing cube portfolio.

• I used packing cubes in both my suitcase and backpack. The shape of the cubes in my backpack mattered a lot. I ended up using three of my Away cubes, which helped divide undergarments, camp clothes, and daily hiking clothes.

And now that I’ve talked your ear off about the benefits of packing cubes, I’m also going to recommend that whatever bags you use inside your backpack are actually waterproof. While I used packing cubes, I put my main items in dry bags. I did have a rain fly, but I still wanted to protect my hiking clothes from the elements. Hiking in the rain is hard enough without discovering your supposedly clean clothes are already wet too.

The Away Suitcase

I’m a big apologist for the Away suitcase, and I was thrilled when my friend introduced me to it.

We had registered for beautiful, high-quality, carry-on Samsonite suitcases for our wedding in 2016. And lucky for us, we got them. They were spacious, gorgeous, and the wheels were excellent. Away, frankly, could learn something there.

However, in 2018 in Italy, we were forced to pay and gate-check our bags because they didn’t fit the standard Italia Airways sizing. I wasn’t new to traveling in Europe and knew those airlines could be picky, but I had never had a problem in the past with other bags and backpacks. The key issue was that the Samsonites had soft tops. Yes, a carry-on-sized suitcase can technically fit the dimensions, but anything soft-sided has the opportunity to expand. A hard suitcase doesn’t allow that. It just strains at the zipper. And lucky for me, the Away zipper is basically made of steel.

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While the wheels leave much to be desired, I have packed for two weeks in NYC in the winter in this suitcase, three weeks in Sicily in the summer, and squeezed in more than I ever thought possible. And the best part? I have never had an airline say my bag was too big.

I was boarding Icelandair once to travel from Oregon to Europe, and the agent said, “Please put your bag in the box to check the size.” I did. She was busy on the computer and didn’t watch. It fit just fine, obviously. I pulled it back out, and she looked up and said, “I didn’t hear it hit the sides.”

Smugly, I replied, “Because it didn’t.” Thank you Away.

What I Packed but Didn’t Need

The number one thing my group brought that I don’t think we truly needed was a camp stove.

Luckily, we all own Jetboils, so the real estate required was pretty minimal. But the only place we actually used it was Paine Grande. Since then, I’ve read that all refugios now have hot water available for those bringing their own meals. We obviously couldn’t pack propane on a plane, so the day before the trek we bopped around Puerto Natales to buy a small canister. We used it once and then left it in a propane donation bin along the trek, about 90% full.

So while it wasn’t overly expensive or wildly space-heavy, it was still kind of unnecessary.

Instead, I would opt for one of these alternatives:

• Pack food that can survive the trek and doesn’t require hot water, like tuna packets, bagels and peanut butter
• Grab a meal or snacks at a refugio. Gray and Paine Grande have camp shops, and places like Cuernos offer hot food
• Have something like cold granola mixed with water for dinner instead

Controversial take: I would also ditch the camp pillow.

To be honest, I bought a nice one from REI that rolled up quite small and had an inflatable side with a foam pad. But it sucked. It wasn’t comfortable, my head bobbed around on it all night while I tried to find the perfect amount of inflation, and it just wasn’t smushy. Yes, smushy is the technical term here.

Instead, I would use:

• A couple of clothing items smushed up
• The top of my sleeping bag on part of my backpack
• My actual sleeping bag

It wasn’t that cold when we were in Patagonia, luckily, so most nights I had my head out of the nook at the top of the sleeping bag anyway. Truly, buying a solid sleeping bag is some of the best advice I can give.

What I Packed and Was Glad I Had

If you are like me and love being outdoors but ultimately also love a hot shower and a bed each night, you may find the W-Trek a little outside your comfort zone. I took a few precautions during the trek to help myself survive five days in the wilderness without my usual creature comforts.

And if you are strong and rugged and don’t mind being dirty, feel free to skip ahead.

But if you are like me and want at least the feeling of being clean, bring your shampoo.

My friend said, “It’s a waste of space. You don’t need to wash your hair.”

Let me tell you, that private shower where I washed and conditioned my hair after wearing it in braids for three days was life-changing. No more itchy scalp. No more sweat buildup. I felt like I had rejoined civilization for 17 glorious minutes. So for me, it was worth the weight in my bag.

Clothing Options

I’ve said it in nearly every blog post I’ve written about Patagonia, and at least once or twice already in this one, but you must pack for Patagonia like you may experience all four seasons in one day.

Because I’m here to tell you: you might.

Sleet, rain, heavy winds, and sunshine strong enough to hand you a sunburn without apology. Plan for the best, but prepare for the worst.

So while my bag was heavy, I was thrilled to have a clean top to wear every day that could accommodate the weather for that day, whether that meant a T-shirt or a long sleeve. And when I was freezing and shivering while waiting for the sun to rise at the Towers, I was so happy to be wearing a long-sleeved workout top, fleece jacket, packable puffer jacket, raincoat, beanie, and gloves.

Yes, I was still cold. But can you imagine being there without all of that?

So when you begin to think about what to pack for the W-Trek in Patagonia, the answer is simple: bring layers. More layers than your optimistic self thinks you need.

Extra Curriculars

I think the overarching theme of this post is that people will tell you, “You don’t need it,” in the name of saving space and weight on your back.

But I’m here to say: if you train correctly, plan appropriately, and pack efficiently, you can trek through these Chilean mountains and eat your cake too. Bad pun fully intended.

I packed my Kindle, my headphones, and a portable solar charger. Yes, going off the grid sounds amazing and relaxing in theory, but I am not a lover of silence and contemplation. So for me, bringing some extracurricular activities was important.

I listened to audiobooks, podcasts, and music while hiking. I read a few pages of a book each night before falling asleep. And I kept my phone charged not just for photo opportunities, but also for calling my husband on Wi-Fi at the refugios.

Normally, I can go five days without speaking to my spouse. But these were special circumstances.

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Water Bottle

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Food

Packing food for the W-Trek can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make it.

If you are flexible and don’t mind spending a little more, you can absolutely buy food in South America. Stores have everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to camping food. You may just be paying a premium for it.

If you follow a specific diet, though, it may be a little more challenging to find what you need. Traveling abroad with food is no big deal if that’s the route you want to take. I packed all my favorite protein bars, peanut butter packets, trail mix, and favorite Mountain House meals. In addition, I brought Starbucks Via packets for my morning coffee, and the girls and I shared a dried coconut non-dairy creamer.

Bringing that in my checked luggage was no big deal, and it meant I had things I knew I would actually want to eat, with the goal of adding a few fresh extras once we got to town.

Whoopsie

I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I packed way too much food.

It was done with anxiety in mind. I do fear being hungry without options, and a common question I ask myself while traveling is: where is my next meal coming from? In fact, food is such a big part of travel for me that I have an entire section of my blog dedicated to dining while traveling.

But with that said, I was overprepared.

I had Mountain House breakfasts and dinners for each day of the trek. My lunch had a full snack-platter theme. Protein bars, jerky, pickles, apples, peanut butter, trail mix, nuts, and more. While I am a hungry gal, I left the trek with so much extra food because we didn’t really stop for full lunch breaks while hiking. Maybe fifteen minutes here or there to eat an apple or some jerky, but otherwise we saved a lot of our eating for meals at the start and end of the day.

The other factor is that most of the refugios have purchasable snacks and meals. So I would opt for packing less and, if you find yourself in a bind or hungrier than expected, grab a weird zucchini pizza at Cuernos or a bag of Doritos at Paine Grande to fill the void.

What Went in My Suitcase

While I definitely usually ride with the “flexibility is key” mindset when packing clothes for a trip, because a girl needs options, this was not one of those trips.

Outfits needed to be planned out. Space needed to be conserved. And I had to be super intentional about what I was bringing.

After hiking the W-Trek, we still had hikes and visits in El Calafate and El Chaltén to dress ourselves for. We booked a place in El Calafate that had laundry, which was essential, and were able to basically reset our W-Trek clothes and wear them again for future hikes, hangs, and travel days.

I specifically packed what I’d call my “in-between clothes” in my suitcase. Comfortable clothes for our drives, cute clothes for our days in Santiago, and casual clothes for the days between hikes in El Chaltén and El Calafate. I already had my outerwear layers, which made warmth and comfort easy moving forward.

I brought only one other pair of shoes, these comfortable Everlane “band shoes”, as my husband so lovingly calls them, for strolling through towns and exploring Santiago.

What I’d Change Next Time

I can’t help but toot my own horn here, but clothing-wise, I think I packed perfectly.

While I didn’t really need the second cute outfit for Santiago, it would have been sad for my friend Kate, who wore the skirt and top I didn’t end up wearing, if I hadn’t brought it along. And while I never wore the one pair of hiking shorts I packed, if it had been blazing hot one day on the trek, I would have been sad to be sweating and not letting my legs see the sun (it was February after all and I did live in the PNW).

I think it’s important to be as prepared as possible for the W or O treks, and if that means a couple of unused items or an extra few ounces because you brought shampoo to deal with your Hagrid mane, then so be it.

As I said above, though, the food was overkill and the propane was ultimately unnecessary. If you want to read more about what I would change about hiking the W-Trek, check out my post here.

The Bottom Line

Packing for three weeks can be hard. Packing for three weeks of backpacking and hiking in rural South America, plus city visits and long plane rides? Brutal.

But with your type-A, neurotic Capricorn bestie on your side, that would be me, you can absolutely pack efficiently and still bring the items you really care about.

While there are definitely things I would do better next time when packing for the W-Trek and the following two weeks in Chile and Argentina, I think I accomplished what I wanted packing-wise: lots of options and feeling fully prepared.

I’m always happy to advise travelers on anything Patagonia-related, especially if it includes packing. DM me on Instagram or shoot me an email at Jess@updatelater.com.

If you want to read a day-to-day breakdown of my W-trek adventure, check out day 1 here!

The post Patagonia W-Trek Packing List: Complete Guide appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Welcome back to my personal Patagonia travel diary! In this series, I’m spilling all the tea and giving you every detail of hiking in Torres del Paine National Park. If you haven’t read Day 1 yet, I recommend starting with here before diving into today’s adventure.

Day 2 began rainy. But really, how could it not? Patagonia is famous for unpredictable weather, you can get all four seasons in a single day. We hiked in February, which is fall in Chile, but even in summer you should prepare for everything: sunshine, downpours, relentless wind, and maybe even snow or hail. Luckily, we had come ready for it. Rain pants, raincoats, layers upon layers, and (most importantly) a rain fly for our packs. Essential!

After a quick pre-hike group photo in the drizzle, we set off.

Rainy Start, Rocky Trail

Coming off my lowest of lows on Day 1, I was determined to crush the hike back to Paine Grande and not get any further sunburns.

Thankfully, the weather improved quickly. Within the first mile, we were peeling off rain gear and stashing layers. The trail itself was familiar, since we were retracing our steps back toward Paine Grande. But hiking the same path in the opposite direction gave everything a new perspective.

There was one section I’d call mildly technical. The path traverses rocks with a steep incline and decline, and even in good weather, water trickles over the stones. After rain, it’s slicker, so you need to watch your footing. It wasn’t extreme, no ropes or scrambling, but it was one of those “don’t zone out” moments.

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The silver lining of the rain? The water features came alive. Small streams we’d crossed the day before were now rushing mini rivers. And we even spotted a hidden waterfall tumbling out of the rocks, something we’d completely missed in drier conditions. Patagonia really rewards you for paying attention.

The Mental Game of Hiking

Once we reached Lago de los Patos, my mood shifted from cautious to confident. I knew the hardest parts of the hike were behind us, and the rest would be manageable. Hiking is such a mental game. Physically, yes, most people can backpack 47 miles if they’re prepared. But convincing your mind to keep pushing, that’s the real challenge.

I sat on a rock near the lake with one of my friends, soaking in the scenery and pulling out packages of pickles to munch on. Yes, pickles need to be a regular hiking snack. Delish.

Food on the W Trek: Granola, Snacks, and Doritos Dreams

Let’s talk food. My meal plan looked like this:

• Breakfast: Mountain House dehydrated meals, usually the blueberry granola.
  
• Dinner: Another Mountain House meal. Thank you, Costco bulk packs. Similar bulk packs here.
  
• Lunch: Snacks! I wasn’t sure how hungry I’d be on the trail, so I packed options.
  

Now, a quick (and “funny”) confession: for two mornings in a row, I thought the blueberry granola was oatmeal. I added hot water, stirred it up, and happily ate what I thought was warm oatmeal. On Day 3, my friend opened the same package, added cold water, and I said, “Wait, what are you doing?” Turns out, it was granola. Cold granola. My mind was blown. On that third day, I tried it the correct way and it was crunchy, cold, and absolutely delicious. Consider me humbled.

For lunches, I went heavy on snack packs. I had:

• Apple and peanut butter squeeze packs
• Jerky & Chomp Sticks
• Pickles: delish and proven to be great for muscle cramps.
• Trail mix (Trader Joe’s or similar)
• Protein bars (One Bars)
• Freestyle Olive Snack Packs
  • Yes, this is a sponsored link. But, I love a salty snack and supporting a women-founded business!

Each day, I’d eat 1–2 of these items for lunch or snack breaks. Honestly, I overpacked. Many refugios sell food, snacks, sandwiches, even chips. If I’d realized a bag of Doritos was waiting for me at Paine Grande, I would have brought less.

Still, the variety of snacks kept things fun.

Back to Paine Grande

As the day went on, the clouds lifted and the landscape turned vibrant green. The lakes, which had been brilliant aquamarine the day before, looked more subdued in the flat light. Patagonia is funny like that, what you see depends so much on the weather.

By the time Paine Grande came into view, relief set in. We’d finished this section, again. Hiking the same path twice takes mental stamina, whether it was good or bad the first time.

This day’s trek was a little shorter than the previous, about 4.5 hours. We left Grey Glacier Refugio around 10:30 a.m. and arrived at Paine Grande around 3:00 p.m.

Life at Paine Grande Refugio

Paine Grande is one of the biggest and most well-equipped refugios on the W Trek. Like others, it offers different accommodation options: pre-set tents, platforms for pitching your own tent, or dorm-style bunk rooms. Because the ground around the refugio can be damp and soft, camping platforms are built with wood slats. Raised walkways connect everything, which keeps you out of the mud when it rains.

We grabbed a platform and set up our tents, securing the rainflies with rocks for extra peace of mind. The platforms even had small hooks around the edges for tying down tents, which was a nice touch.

Showers, Crocs, and Communal Vibes

My first order of business was always the same: shower and Crocs (my go to camp shoe). The bathrooms at Paine Grande were glorious compared to some of the others. Spacious, private, and set up in a way that didn’t make you feel like you were juggling clothes, towel, and toiletries in a phone booth. I luxuriated in my five-minute rinse before heading to the communal room in full off-roading (strap on) Croc mode.

The main building overlooks Lake Pehoé with stunning mountain views. Inside, the communal room was buzzing, long wooden tables filled with hikers playing cards, drinking beer or sodas, and sharing trail stories. We joined in, playing cards over a Diet Coke and, yes, a bag of Nacho Doritos.

When dinner service began, we moved to the camper kitchen in a separate building. The space had sinks (with cold water only), counters for prepping, and a large seating area. We cooked our Mountain House dinners on small camp stoves with mini propane bottles, then spent another hour playing cards before finally calling it a night.

The Windy Night

I’d expected noise from other campers to be the main sleep challenge, but I was wrong. It wasn’t people that kept us up, it was the wind. Patagonia is infamous for strong gusts, and the Paine Grande campsite sits in an exposed field. All night, the wind whipped at the tents, flapping the fabric so loudly it felt like it was inside my brain.

At one point, I pulled my beanie down over my ears and shoved my headphones in just to dull the roar. It reminded me of a disastrous camping trip at the Grand Canyon years ago (a comedy-of-errors story you can read about here). This night wasn’t quite that bad, but sleep came in fits and starts.

Still, that’s Patagonia.

The Day 2 Bottom Line

Day 2 of the W Trek brought rain, hidden waterfalls, crunchy granola epiphanies, Doritos, Crocs, card games, and a sleepless windstorm. It was shorter and easier than Day 1, but just as memorable.

I hope you enjoyed reliving this section of the trek with me! Writing these posts brings me so much joy because it feels like hiking it all over again. Day 3 brings one of the trek’s most iconic highlights, so stay tuned.

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The post W Trek Travel Diary: Day 2 – Grey Glacier to Paine Grande appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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My trip to Chilean Patagonia to hike the famous W-Trek was everything I dreamed of: steep ascents, rugged mountains, sherbet-colored sunrises, teal-blue lakes, and tree-lined trails. It was five days of challenging hikes and unforgettable views. Honestly, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

That said, no trip is perfect. While I don’t regret the adventure at all, there are definitely a few things I would do differently if I had the chance. Consider this your guide to what I learned the hard way on my 47-mile backpacking trip of a lifetime.

So let’s dive in. I’m always willing to admit when I’m wrong (it happens so infrequently, obviously). Here’s what I would change if I could do the W-Trek again.

1. Book in Advance

This one sounds obvious, right? In theory, yes. In practice, not so much.

Our group of five had originally planned to hike the W-Trek in November 2020… and then, well, the world shut down. By September 2023, we decided to go for it again: “Is now our moment to go to Patagonia?” The answer was a loud YES. But because we booked late (October for a February trip), our options were super limited.

We hadn’t even decided if we wanted to stay in refugios (mountain hostels), rent pre-set tents, or bring our own gear. But because of the late booking, the choice was made for us. We had no option but to carry all our own gear: tents, sleeping bags, mats, camp pillows, the works. Schlepping it all was… a fun challenge!

And here’s the thing, when you bring all your own gear and food, you don’t just hike all day. You also have to set up camp, cook, clean, and tear it all down. We thought we’d have afternoons free to read or play cards, but between hiking and camp chores, downtime was minimal.

TLDR

Book early! Especially with a group. You’ll have your pick of refugios, tents, and meal plans. If you want to make life easier, I recommend booking through Torres Hike. They streamline refugio reservations, meals, and park entrance tickets so you can skip the expensive guided tours and still have everything organized.

While a South American backpacking trip may sound intimidating, I don’t think a guided tour is necessary or helpful for this trip. The trails are straight forward, book through Torres Hike is a piece of cake and life at the refugios is a breeze. So skip the expensive guide, you can do it!

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

2. Don’t Be Too Cheap

If you’re on a budget, good news, you don’t need to shell out for a $3,000 guided tour to enjoy Torres del Paine. Flights to Santiago were the most expensive part of our trip, and splitting costs among friends made everything else manageable.

That said… if I could do it again, I’d spend a little more for convenience. Here’s a quick breakdown, but if you want a more thorough explanation of your options, check out my comprehensive Patagonia guide.

• Most expensive option: Stay in refugios in actual beds (with a rented sleeping bag and your liner). Eat breakfast and dinner there, plus get a packed lunch to take on the trail.
  

• Middle-of-the-road option: Stay in refugios or rent a pre-set tent. Either rent a sleeping bag or bring your own. Have refugios prepare your meals or pack in your own food.
  

• Cheapest option (what I did): Rent just a tent space, bring all your own camping gear, and pack in every meal and snack.

Guess which one requires carrying the heaviest pack? Yep, the cheap route. Looking back, I would have at least split it, maybe bringing my own sleeping bag but letting refugios handle meals. Not only would that have lightened my pack, but it would have saved time on cooking and cleaning dishes.

And about the food, honestly, we were way too precious about it. Blogs had warned us that refugio meals were bad, so we skipped them. But by day three, the food looked incredible (yes even the pork and zucchini pizza we had on day 3), the reviews from other hikers were glowing, and their packed lunches were basically gourmet compared to our sad trail food. Lesson learned.

Convenience > pride when you’re carrying a backpack for five days.

3. Skip the Hiking Boots – Bring Trail Runners

Confession: I didn’t bring hiking boots on this trip. And thank goodness, because you don’t need them!

Hiking boots are bulky, heavy, and take up too much space. I used to swear by my Columbia Newton Ridge boots (budget-friendly, Danner-esque, Wild boot dupe for the Reese Witherspoon fans out there). But for Patagonia, my friend convinced me to try trail runners, and I’ll never go back.

The result? Zero blisters. Zero pain. No foot drama at all, which is a miracle for me. My feet usually blister at the thought of hiking, and my toes rub constantly, but the trail runners were perfect.

Sure, ankle support might help with river crossings or rocky patches, but the lightweight comfort was worth it. And if you’re like me, trying to pack light for three weeks in South America, you’ll appreciate every inch of saved suitcase space.

For reference, I used the Hoka Speed Goats, which were so perfect I basically want to tuck them into bed at night.

4. Don’t Split Up

If you’re hiking the W-Trek with friends, stay with your group. Not just for buses and meals, actually hike together. Adjust your pace, slow down when someone needs it, and avoid splitting off.

I say this because… yes, I took a wrong turn, you can read all about it here. Hiking alone in the mountains without service isn’t ideal. As the group’s “medicine keeper,” it also would have been smarter to stick closer in case anyone needed something.

We had five women hiking together, and overall, it was smooth sailing. No fights, no drama, just good vibes. But having set check-in points along the trail would have been smart, especially since half of us were tracking mileage on apps anyway.

The bottom line: don’t wander through Patagonia’s “Death Marshes” alone. Your friends will thank you.

5. Don’t Be Ashamed of Your Creature Comforts

Confession time: I’m not a hardcore backpacker. This was my longest multi-day trek and the most nights I’ve ever spent camping. I loved it, but it was also a stretch for me.

On the first day, I was struggling emotionally. Between listening to a melancholy audiobook and still grieving the loss of my dog, I was craving comfort. And you know what? Paying $10 for refugio WiFi so I could FaceTime my husband was worth every penny.

Forget the purists who say, “You won’t miss your phone.” If WiFi gives you peace of mind, pay for it. I did, at every refugio that offered it, and it kept me connected to my family and sanity and most importantly, my New York Times crossword puzzle streak.

Same goes for packing shampoo. A veteran hiker told me not to bring it (“too heavy, you won’t wash your hair anyway”), but guess what? I did, and it was 100% worth it. Washing my hair once made me feel human again and helped manage my Hagrid level frizz that I had on day 3. Sleeping clean in a tent after a long day of hiking was heaven.

Moral of the story: pack what makes you comfortable. Patagonia is hard enough.

The Bottom Line

I survived five days on the W-Trek just fine, but hindsight is 20/20. Hopefully, my missteps help you plan your own adventure with a little more comfort, ease, and joy.

If you want my full day-by-day recap of the W-Trek, start here with day 1. And if you have questions or Patagonia dreams, reach out!

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post 5 Things I Would Do Differently Hiking the W-Trek in Patagonia appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Welcome to Day 3 of my play-by-play series of the W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park! Here, I’m talking trails, snacks, refugios, and everything in between to give you a real glimpse into what hiking Patagonia’s most famous route is actually like.

If you haven’t read about our VERY windy night at Paine Grande in Day 2 or the rough start of Day 1, check those out first before reading this day 3 W Trek guide. If you just want logistics and facts, my Patagonia planning guide is here. Otherwise, let’s get into Day 3.

Leaving Paine Grande

After the tent-flapping chaos of the previous night, we woke up groggy but ready to push on. Breakfast was easy thanks to Paine Grande’s BYO-friendly setup. This refugio is a dream for campers: it has a large indoor kitchen area where you can use your propane stoves and a spacious dining hall full of tables to hunker down from the elements. Having a roof over our heads while cooking felt downright luxurious.

By around 9 a.m., packs were cinched, boots were laced, and we were back on the trail.

Day 3 was always going to be the longest day. Our plan was to hike from Paine Grande to Cuernos, with an optional side hike to Mirador Británico. That extra trek adds about 3 miles and 1,800 feet of elevation gain, but the payoff is some of the best views on the W Trek. Cuernos itself is the most popular choice for Day 3 accommodation, thanks to its unbeatable views and lively atmosphere, but more on that later.

Flat Trails and Big Views

The day began on the flattest section of the entire W Trek. Glorious, glorious flat dirt trail. No rocks, no relentless inclines, just easy walking. With on-and-off showers, a little wind, and clouds drifting overhead, the weather was moody but cooperative.

For the first half of the day, we skirted along the very blue, very choppy Lake Pehoé. In the distance, dramatic snowcapped peaks towered above us. The mix of vivid lake blues, golden grasses, and steel-gray clouds felt like a painting. After two days of ever changing elevation, this part of the trail was a balm.

As we left the lake behind, fog rolled over the mountains, making me feel like Frodo heading toward Mordor. The cliffs were giving drama, and it truly felt like an orc could appear at any moment. The closer we got to the mountains, the more their layers of color stood out. Jagged rock faces striped with minerals, glaciers wedged in between peaks, it was Patagonia in its full cinematic glory.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Crossing the Grey River

We followed the trail alongside the Grey River until reaching one of the W Trek’s few suspension bridges. It swayed slightly as we crossed, adding just enough thrill to make you laugh nervously while tightening your grip on the railing. Beyond the bridge, the inclines stayed gentle, nothing too gnarly.

Soon, turquoise Lake Nordenskjöld came into view. This alpine lake was pure aquamarine, the kind of color you’d think was photoshopped if you saw it in a picture. It reminded me of the glacial lakes in North Cascades National Park, so bright it looked fake.

After a bit, we arrived at Italiano, a now-closed refugio that serves as the base camp for Mirador Británico. Here, there’s a massive pack storage structure, so you can leave your heavy gear behind and hike up with just a day pack.

The Británico Decision

At Italiano, our group split. Some of us (the ambitious ones) headed up to Mirador Británico for the bonus miles and 1,800 feet of climbing. Others, myself included, opted to continue toward Cuernos.

I wanted to save energy for the remainder of the trek, and some of us decided to take the tents ahead to secure our platforms. Still, it was a tough call. Looking back, I feel a little torn. The photos from Mirador Británico are stunning, and yes, part of me wishes I went. But being realistic about my limits was the right choice. The trek is long, and pacing matters.

Lunch, Heat, and Rocky Beaches

After Italiano, the trail wound through brushy greenery before descending into a forested, rockier section. We stopped for lunch on a big boulder with the lake glittering in the distance. It felt good to rest, but as we continued downhill, the day warmed up. The humidity built, and between the rocks and trees, it got uncomfortably sticky.

Eventually, the path opened to fresh air and another jaw-dropping lake, this time right at the shoreline. Some hikers were brave enough to jump in. I settled for a quick toe dip, which was enough to confirm: icy, icy, icy.

The beach was beautiful but challenging. Instead of sand, it was covered in large, uneven rocks. My ankles worked overtime trying to stay steady. We also crossed a few streams where snowmelt ran straight into the lake. With no bridges, it was all rock-hopping. Luckily, trekking poles made it simple enough.

Passing Frances Refugio

Past the rocky beach, the trail began climbing again. We soon passed Frances Refugio, tucked into the forest. With recent rainfall, the area was muddy, and the walkways were basic and uneven wooden planks, not as polished as Paine Grande’s boardwalks.

Frances is a good option if you want a shorter Day 3, but our group was glad we pushed on. Cuernos promised better views, more space, and more energy.

By this point, I was dragging. My legs felt every step, and I was grateful I hadn’t tacked on the extra 6 miles to Mirador Británico.

Arrival at Cuernos Refugio

Finally, Cuernos came into view, and it was everything. Perched among the trees, the whole camp gave off serious treehouse vibes. Wooden walkways, tent platforms, and cabins blended into the forest. After long days of exposure, being nestled in the trees felt cozy and magical.

Cuernos quickly became my favorite refugio of the trek. The kitchen was lively, the atmosphere high-energy, and the views? Unbeatable. I also had a beer at Cuernos, so maybe I am a bit influenced by the booze. The turquoise lake stretched below, and jagged peaks towered above.

We were free to choose our own tent platforms, which meant scoping out three close together wasn’t easy. Eventually, we found a tucked-away spot with gorgeous views and just enough tree coverage. We set up all three tents so everything would be ready when the rest of our group arrived.

The Afternoon We Dreamed About

For the first time on the W Trek, we actually had a relaxing afternoon. We finished hiking around 3:00 p.m., grabbed a beer from the refugio, and spent a couple of hours reading, playing cards, and soaking in the scenery. This was the kind of “be done early, hang out, enjoy” afternoon we had envisioned before the trip, and it turned out to be the only day it actually happened.

At some point, I took out the French braids I’d been rocking since Day 1 and finger-combed my hair. The result? A wild mane that can only be described as “Hagrid chic.” Honestly, the photos are hilarious.

Pizza, Refugio Life, and Early Bedtime

When the rest of our group arrived 3.5 hours later, exhausted but triumphant from Británico, we celebrated with pizza from the refugio. The toppings were… unconventional: pulled pork, zucchini, and shredded carrots. But pizza is pizza, and after three days of dehydrated meals, it tasted amazing.

Like most refugios, Cuernos reserves its main indoor dining area for paying meal guests. Campers have to use the alternate kitchen and seating area. Thankfully, Cuernos’ camper space was solid with plenty of space to spread out and chill.

After dinner and a few more card games, we called it an early night. Tomorrow would be another big day, trekking to Chileno, our penultimate stop.

The Day 3 Bottom Line

Day 3 of the W Trek was long, full of contrasts: flat and easy stretches, humid rocky descents, icy lake dips, and cozy treehouse vibes at Cuernos. While I skipped Mirador Británico, arriving early at Cuernos and finally enjoying a relaxing afternoon was exactly what I needed.

If you’re planning your own trek, think carefully about where to stop this night. Frances is shorter, but Cuernos delivers on views and atmosphere. Either way, Day 3 is a big one.

Stay tuned for Day 4, where we make our way to Chileno Refugio for our second-to-last night.

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The post W Trek Travel Diary: Day 3 – Paine Grande to Cuernos appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Welcome to day 1 of my W Trek travel diary! The W Trek is a 47-mile backpacking route in Chilean Patagonia that winds through rugged mountain terrain, alongside glacial lakes, beneath jagged peaks and over rivers and suspension bridges. The scenery changes constantly, one moment you’re in a shady forest, the next you’re standing on a windy ridge looking at an ice field. Most people complete it in five days, though some seasoned backpackers manage in less.

If you’re reading this, chances are you’re curious about what it’s actually like. Maybe you want a play-by-play of the trek, or maybe you’re just wondering if you could really do it! Backpacking through South America sounds both thrilling and intimidating. I’m here to share my travel diary with you. Over five posts, I’ll break down how each day went for my group, review our Torres del Paine itinerary, and share tips we learned along the way. You’ll get the good, the bad, the lessons learned, and even which Mountain House meals ended up being favorites.

So let’s get into it, Day 1.

Patagonia W Trek Day 1…ready, go!

If you’re still in the planning stages, wondering how to book transportation, refugios, or permits, I wrote a full post that details exactly how we organized our W Trek adventure.

On Day 1, our alarms went off before dawn, though honestly, none of us were sleeping much anyway. The mix of nerves and excitement was real. We had a bus to catch, luggage to store, and a one-kilometer walk to the station before coffee had even fully kicked in. Us by the way, included my two co-workers: Lindsey and Cassandra. Along with them came Lindsey’s girlfriend (now fiancé!) Kate and Cassandra’s med school buddy Denise. The 5 of us comprised our rag tag group of medical professionals adventuring down south to Chile. Now, to continue…

Here’s my first hot Patagonia tip: store your extra luggage at the Puerto Natales bus station. They have a secure storage room, which is far better than leaving bags scattered in a hostel. The downside? It’s paid by the day and per bag, so consolidate as much as possible before checking them in. We had to do some last-minute shuffling, cramming multiple people’s extra clothes into one duffel. Totally worth it for the money savings.

The Bus Ride to Torres del Paine

We had booked our journey from Puerto Natales to the park with Bus Sur, but even so, finding the right bus at the station felt a little chaotic. Dozens of buses were lined up, many headed to the same general area but staggered by 15–30 minutes. For a moment, we weren’t entirely sure if we were putting our bags under the right bus. Eventually, we spotted our number, stashed our packs (hiking poles secured so they wouldn’t snap in transit), and climbed aboard.

The ride to Torres del Paine takes around three hours. The bus wound its way out of Puerto Natales, past grassy plains dotted with sheep and guanacos (a South American llama, so cute!). Slowly, snowcapped mountains began to rise on the horizon. Every so often, I’d catch myself staring out the window, wondering: Is that one of the towers? Is that where we’re headed? The anticipation built with every mile.

About two hours in, the bus stopped at Laguna Amarga. This is where everyone must get off to show paperwork and confirm park admission. If you haven’t bought your ticket yet, you’ll need to do so here, but ideally you’ll have it sorted ahead of time. The process was quick, and the stop was a nice excuse to stretch our legs.

Note: If you’re hiking east to west, Laguna Amarga is your starting point. Because we were going west to east, we had a little more ground to cover before our trek officially began.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Arrival in Pudeto & Ferry to Paine Grande

From Laguna Amarga, the bus continued to Pudeto. The closer we got, the better the views became, jagged peaks glowing with snow, sweeping valleys dotted with wildlife. Each glimpse of the mountains made me think: This is it. We’re really here. This trip was 4 years (a Covid related cancellation) in the making and it felt surreal to finally be starting this adventure.

At Pudeto, we had about 30 minutes before the ferry departed, so we popped into the small shop to grab snacks and use the bathroom (highly recommend, you never know when your next bathroom break will be).

The ferry across Lake Pehoé is straightforward but worth noting: you can book in advance or just pay 27,000 CLP cash on the boat. The schedule is designed to match bus arrivals, which means if you’ve just hopped off the ferry, you won’t be waiting long. Boarding was casual. We lined up outside of the dock about 15 minutes before the ferry was due to leave. After we boarded the boat, the boat crew stacked all our backpacks in a pile and hikers sprawled across benches, everyone buzzing with anticipation.

The 30-minute ride was stunning. Lake Pehoé shimmered in an unreal shade of turquoise under the sun. The mountains loomed larger with every passing minute. And then, just like that, we were stepping off at Paine Grande, where our trek would truly begin.

Setting Out: Paine Grande to Grey Glacier Refugio

At Paine Grande, the trail splits: take the left path to Paine Grande Refugio, or head right toward Grey Glacier. We snapped a quick group photo, feeling fresh and optimistic, and turned right.

The hike to Grey Glacier Refugio is about 6.8 miles with roughly 1,100 feet of elevation gain and 1,000 feet of loss. On paper, it looked manageable. We had originally thought it was only a net gain of 100 feet, easy, right? But the reality was a rollercoaster of ups and downs. (I even made detailed elevation graphs you can check out here)

The trail began with a small valley followed by a short and steep climb, and almost immediately I started questioning whether I’d trained enough. Even considering “should I drink my water now just to lighten the load?” Important questions. Within minutes of the first incline, I was out of breath, laughing at myself, and answering all those doubts with a quick yep, this is going to be hard.

Weather, Views, and… Sunscreen Fails

We had gorgeous weather this first day, sunny skies, barely a breeze. Honestly, maybe too gorgeous. I had skipped sunscreen that morning, thinking the cool air meant I wouldn’t burn. Wrong. Within an hour, my forearms were slowly roasting.

The payoff, though, was unbeatable. Around mile three, we reached a ridge with sweeping views of Grey Lake. The water looked like melted cotton candy, pale blue, sparkling under the sun. Off in the distance, the massive hulk of Grey Glacier came into view. It looked almost fake, like a giant block of white and blue plopped into the horizon.

Along the way, we crossed a small wooden bridge, passed trickling streams, and wound our way through gentle, rolling terrain. The W Trek is challenging in terms of mileage and endurance, but technically, the trails are very approachable. No ropes, no scrambling or sharp edges, just steady walking with a heavy pack.

The Tough Part of the Hike

Despite the good weather and good company, my mood took a dip. Just a week before we left, my husband and I lost our first dog- Ron Weasley, to cancer. He was only six years old. The shock and grief hit hard, and it came with me on the trail. Combine that with the heavy, melancholic tone of The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue (my trail audiobook of choice) and the difficulty of the climb and I was a puddle.

Luckily, if there is one thing I have learned after my 30+ years 29 years on earth, is that nothing mends a broken heart like your gal pals. While over the last bit of hiking we had all spread out, I waited for the last 2 to catch up and their presence cheered me right up. Sometimes that’s what you need, a pause, a cry and your soul mates in friend form. And afterward, I felt lighter, ready to keep moving forward.

Arrival at Grey Glacier Refugio

After tackling the downhill, stream covered, rocky bit of the trail, we finally approached the descent into Grey Glacier Refugio and it felt like bliss. We had started around 11:30 a.m. and arrived close to 5:00 p.m., tired but relieved. For me, this stretch of the trek ranks third hardest overall. The constant elevation gain and loss made it more draining than expected, and I wasn’t thrilled about having to hike the same section again the next day.

Check-in was easy. Even campers need to register and receive a campsite number. Ours was tucked just far enough away from the main building to feel quiet and peaceful. The refugio itself has three main structures: the main lodge (with bunks and indoor meal service), a bathroom/shower facility, and a combined check-in, camp store and camper dining area. They offered free hot water, and, luxury of luxuries, a sink to wash dishes in.

My biggest complaint, which applied to most refugios, is that campers were left to fend for themselves outside. Indoor space was reserved for those who paid for meals. It makes sense, given the limited facilities, but still, eating dinner outside in the rain feels like a bummer after a long day of hiking.

Bonus Hike: Getting Closer to Grey Glacier

After pitching tents (for sleeping, teehee), we set off for the optional bonus hike to get us up close and personal with the glacier: about 2.4 miles round trip. The trail led through forest and over suspension bridges, each one swaying gently as we crossed. Eventually, the trees opened up to reveal Grey Glacier in all its massive glory.

You can go as far as you like on this extension. Some people push to the very end; others find a rock with a good view and just sit. We stayed for a while, watching the sunset glow against the ice, the lake calm and reflective. It was one of those moments where you have to remind yourself it’s real.

By the time we made it back, it was time for showers (hallelujah) and bed. We’d need the rest, as tomorrow meant retracing our steps back to Paine Grande.

The Bottom Line

Day 1 of the W Trek was full of contrasts: bus rides and ferry crossings, laughter and grief, sunshine and sunburns, exhaustion and awe. The Grey Glacier was a highlight, and while the hike was tougher than expected, it was a strong start to an unforgettable trek.

Continue reading here for Day 2. If you’re still planning, check out my Patagonia “How-To” guide. For inspiration closer to home check out my US National Park Guides.

See you on the trail!

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The post W Trek Travel Diary: Day 1- a Journey to Grey Glacier appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Greetings and welcome to Day 4 of my mini travel diary, where I share the day-to-day details of completing the W Trek in Chilean Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park. If you need to catch up on the journey so far, start with the earlier entries listed below

• Day 1
  
• Day 2
  
• Day 3
  

Alternatively, if you are on a Patagonia fact finding mission check out my complete guide here or if you want to know what I would do differently hiking the W trek, then this post is for you. Otherwise, today’s route takes us from Cuernos, my favorite refugio for the views, to the Chileno refugio. It turned into a very challenging day. The hiking was hard and the elevation was no joke although, the real drama came from a navigational pickle that had me genuinely worried I wouldn’t make it out. Here we go.

Breakfast and Blue Skies

Breakfast began with my newfound truth: the “oatmeal” I had been eating all week was actually blueberry granola. Today I finally ate it the intended way, with cold water. Crunchy, delicious, and honestly it slapped. After packing up, three of us hit the trail a little ahead of the other two. I’m not even sure why we split up, only that we were ready and they weren’t quite there yet. We waved and said, “See you at Chileno!”

The morning was immediately beautiful and immediately uphill. The path threads through camp, crosses a gorgeous stream, and climbs toward the ridge above Lake Nordenskjöld. At this time, the sun was shining, the sky was a deep blue and for a while there were zero complaints.

I traded my French braids and Hagrid-level frizz for space buns, and the vibes were high. A light breeze came and went. In between the short climbs, the trail flattened out and we walked along the lake with the kind of views that make you forget your pack weight.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Where I Went Wrong

Then we reached a three-way junction which had three paths and three different directions. There was a sign with arrows pointing to different destinations, and I was slightly ahead of my two friends. I headed toward what I believed was the river crossing. It made sense on paper. No fancy suspension bridge here, just a scramble down to the water and a rock-hopping crossing. Once on the other side, a steep trail climbed up to the right, so I followed it.

Up and down a few rolling hills, I reached a stunning viewpoint over the lake. It looked like the perfect spot to wait for my friends, so I sat and cracked open my Kindle while I kept an eye on the trail below. Ten minutes passed. Then fifteen. I ate a couple of pickles from my snack stash and continued to wait, waving at hikers as they passed. Odd. Where were my friends? Maybe a bathroom stop. Maybe a quick detour.

A couple approached and we chatted. They asked where I was headed.

“Chileno,” I said. They asked if I’d come from Central.

“No, from Cuernos. We’re doing the Towers tomorrow morning.”

A pause. Then they gently broke the news: this path led to Central. The end of the trek.

A drop in my stomach. Suddenly it made sense why my friends hadn’t appeared. I thanked the couple, wished them well, and immediately jogged back down to the river.

The Wrong Turn and the Unmarked Left

Back at the river crossing I retraced my steps, crossed the water again, and returned to the three-way sign. A small group was sitting there eating lunch. For a moment I thought, great, I’ll tuck in behind them and we’ll all head the same way. But they were staying put for a while. I was on my own.

I read the sign again. The correct way still seemed to require crossing the river. But how had I ended up on the wrong trail? It felt like there was only one obvious route out of the crossing, a well-worn path to the right. As I stepped over the water again, I noticed a man ahead of me crossing. On the far bank he turned left. Left? I hadn’t even seen a left. It looked rocky and overgrown, only faintly treaded, not at all like a main trail. No signs either.

An Unofficial Guide

I followed him and asked, “Chileno?” He didn’t speak English. I tried again: “The Towers? Chileno?” A single “sí” was all I needed. I tucked in behind my new friend and we set out. Immediately the path entered a field of tall grass over soft, swampy ground. Narrow planks appeared here and there, just enough to keep your boots out of the marsh. We balance-beamed across, slow and steady.

Beyond the marsh, the route opened into broad fields of waist-high brown grass. The trail meandered through the open, barely a footpath in places, and for long stretches it was just me and my silent companion. Eventually, we had to part ways as he sat on a low dirt mound to rest. I asked once more, half to him and half to myself, confirming we were headed the right direction. Another nod and gratefully, another “sí.”

Climbing in Eerie Silence and LOTR Brain

Another key point to this saga is: I have a terrible sense of direction. It’s a running joke between my husband and I. While i am the travel organizer, I definitely step into a new city and turn around in a circle until I get google maps pointed the right way.

And out there, that tendency felt amplified. There were no trail markers for long stretches, no crowds, no chatter. The air was undeniably still and stagnant, the grass unmoving, no birdsong and shockingly, zero wind. The silence felt eerie and heavy. Add in the stress of my earlier mistake and the solitude took on a cinematic quality. It felt like the opening scene of a thriller where the soundtrack warns you to turn back. I was absolutely bewildered how I was completely alone on this trail.

I kept going. What else could I do? The elevation began to rise. I was listening to The Fellowship of the Ring audiobook and feeling more hobbit than human obviously convinced that Black Riders might emerge from behind any boulder (it was seriously chilling). Occasionally, I pulled my headphones out, convincing myself I heard horses. You can hire pack horses to carry gear up to Chileno, given that, it wasn’t an outlandish idea. But each time there was nothing.

I wish I took more photos to document the eeriness I felt hiking alone to Chileno. But with the nerves of being lost and my walk/sprint to find other humans, I only have these to show.

A Solo Climb

With the adrenaline and panic humming under the surface, my pace picked up. The climb steepened. The flats ended. My huffing and puffing did not. I planned contingencies in my head. Surely, this had to be Chileno’s approach. Backtrack in the afternoon heat? Wait for other hikers and hope they knew the way?

Finally, the fields gave way to rock and switchbacks while the trail narrowed and the world dropped off to my right into a deep canyon. For the first time in hours, hikers appeared. I could breathe again. If I slipped or twisted an ankle at last now there were people close enough to help. The views sharpened as the grade increased. The wind picked up through a mountain pass that absolutely earned the title “windy.” Then a suspension bridge appeared, swaying gently over a gorge and beyond it came the unmistakable hum of camp.

A sign read “Chileno.” I have never loved a sign more.

Reunited at Chileno

As I walked into camp, the refugio sat right by the trail. A little farther on, my friends were at a picnic table. “Oh, thank God,” one said. Then, “What happened?” I shrugged off my pack, refilled my water and launched into the story. On top of being lost, I had finished the final miles with an empty water bottle, which did not help the anxiety. Between gulps of water and handfuls of snacks, I regaled them with my journey about the confusing junction. It felt like my own hobbit journey through the Dead Marshes, just with trekking poles and space buns.

The picnic table became home base for the afternoon. Chileno is one of the most unique refugios on the W Trek. The kitchen operates out of a small cabin with a few showers in the back. There is uncovered outdoor seating with picnic tables for campers who cook their own meals. Bathrooms live in a separate building. Camping platforms stretch up the hillside behind the refugio. It is a simple setup with a lot of character.

Luckily, my tent was already pitched because the rest of the group arrived before me but getting to it was a mini adventure. The path to the platforms is steep, loose, and angled, not exactly Croc friendly. I picked my way up the slope, tried not to skid, and reminded myself that plenty of people do this in the dark the next morning on the sunrise push to the Towers.

Camp Life on a Hillside

We unpacked and prepped for the pre-dawn hike. Dinner was a quick, satisfying affair at the outdoor tables. Showers were a blessing. The water felt extra good after the stress and the miles. Chileno’s vibe is lively without being overwhelming. Hikers cycle through nonstop, everyone buzzing about sunrise plans or glowing from photos they already took up top.

Sleeping at Chileno isn’t luxurious but the hillside setting feels special. Pines and scrub line the slope. When the wind drops, you can hear the river and when it blows, it roars through the pass. After a last round of snacks and a final check of layers for the morning, we zipped the tent and tried to quiet the nerves. The alarm would be brutal, but the Towers at sunrise were the finale we came for.

What I’d Tell Future Me About Day 4

• Read every junction carefully. Some intersections have signs that feel obvious until they don’t. When in doubt, wait for your group or confirm with another hiker before committing.

• Expect unmarked choices. After river crossings, look for less-traveled options that may be correct even if they are not the most worn. That subtle left was the key.

• Don’t skimp on the water. I ran dry a couple of miles before camp which was not ideal on a climb. Fill up when you can, especially before long, exposed sections.

• Keep a map available. Paper, drawn, printed. Whatever you can find to keep you going the correct direction.
  

The Bottom Line

To sum it up, day 4 from Cuernos to Chileno had everything. Blue skies, a beautiful ridge walk above Lake Nordenskjöld, a confusing three-way junction, a stealthy left after a river crossing, eerie silence across the prairie, a windy mountain pass and the best sign in the world waiting at camp. It was hard and humbling, and it ended in relief and laughter at a picnic table with my people.

Tomorrow was our final day on the W Trek. It is the sunrise push to the Towers, the longest haul, and the day we get beds again. Bliss. Keep reading for Day 5, where I share exactly how the sunrise hike went and how it felt to return to cell service and civilization. And tell me, have you ever gotten lost on a hike?

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Greetings and welcome to the final day of my W trek in Chilean Patagonia. Over the last four posts, I have shared the ups and the downs of our time in Torres del Paine National Park, the comedy of errors and the tiny wins that kept us moving. I hope you have found something to laugh at, something useful for planning, and a little spark to go chase your own version of this trail. This day is not without excitement or important details, so let’s go.

The 3 a.m. Wake-Up and Why Sunrise

Our alarms went off around 3 a.m. Yikes. There are two ways to really see the Towers viewpoint. You can tackle them on Day 1, which means hiking more than twelve miles and gaining roughly 3,000 feet, or you can save them for the final morning and go for sunrise before trekking down. If you partake in the sunrise, there are logistics to juggle. Like refugio check out, the hike down and bus schedules. We always knew we were doing the sunrise version, so when that blaring beep cut through the tent, it basically said, “get your asses hiking.”

We layered up, skipped teeth brushing for speed (sorry, Mom), and started moving. The afternoon before, we had found the start of the trail from Chileno so it would not be confusing when we were bleary-eyed and fumbling for headlamps. Of course, it was raining. At 3 a.m., the weather should be none of my business frankly, but Patagonia does what it wants. The first stretch was lovely and mostly gentle, mini rolling hills on wooded paths and forest trails, soft dirt underfoot and the quiet crunch of boots.

The Sign in the Dark

Our first hiccup came in a forested section where the trees opened to a ridge clearing. A large sign said the trail was closed until 6 a.m. I am pretty sure there was a rope across the path too. It was raining, it was the middle of the night and my brain was working at half power. But the message seemed clear. Other hikers were stopped there as well, milling under the canopy and peering out into the wind and drizzle.

We sat and thought it through. People do this sunrise push every day, so how did we miss this detail? Technically, night hiking is not approved anywhere in Torres del Paine National Park, which explains the sign and rope. In practice, many hikers continue. Keep that context in mind and hike with caution if you plan to see the towers at sunrise. After a quick huddle with the small group around us, we decided to go on.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Wind, Rock, and the Headlamp Parade

The ridge continued and the character of the trail changed. Dirt gave way to rock and trees. First came long runs of rock steps, then the kind of boulder hopping that sets your thighs on fire. Not climbing in the literal sense, but big steps up and around, squeezing between boulders, hands out for balance, poles clacking against stone.

It was giving Mt. Everest summit vibes, a slow procession with each hiker following closely behind the last. Through rain and headlamps I had no idea what was going on beyond three feet of visibility in front of me. I just kept climbing and following the leader. It was an absolute mind f*ck, in the way only a pitch-black boulder climbing can be. You look one to three steps ahead, step from giant rock to giant rock, and have no sense of who is in front or how many switchbacks are left. The trees thinned. Space opened. Far up the slope, a galaxy of headlamps danced in the distance and then in the even farther distance, making me think, “omg how much further.”

The final approach crosses a boulder field as you get closer to the Towers and the lake. There are poles stuck in the ground to keep you on the path, but at 4 a.m., in rain and wind, who is really seeing those. We moved carefully, testing each foothold and keeping our eyes on the trail of light at our feet.

Claiming a Boulder and Waiting It Out

We reached the viewpoint zone and found a huge rock that offered both a seat and a wind break. We parked right in front of it, close enough to the lake that no one could pop in front of us and also slightly protected from the gusts. Even with four layers on top and two on the bottom, the cold moved straight through the gaps and settled in my bones. The rain had finally stopped, but the wind stayed present, needling every exposed inch of skin.

We huddled together and waited. I may have fallen asleep for twenty minutes, that strange pre-dawn micro-nap you take sitting upright while your brain still hums. Having a solid sunrise spot was great, but getting there so early and waiting was a bit difficult. The payoff, though, would be worth it.

Sunrise That Earned the Hype

As the horizon softened, sunrise gave us a slow-motion color show. Pastel blues and purples shifted to fiery oranges and pinks as the light climbed. The towers caught and held it like beacons. This was the moment we had spent five days working toward, and seeing it bloom right in front of us felt unreal.

Low clouds hovered over the tips for a while, teasing us, then slowly lifted and blew away. And if you can believe it, we got a rainbow crossing over the towers. Unreal is the only word that fits. We took the necessary photos, put our phones away, and just looked. I can still feel the sting of cold on my cheeks and that warm, fuzzy feeling in my chest.

Daylight, Knees, and Gravity

We started down when feeling returned to our fingers. Seeing the route in daylight was… illuminating (heh). The rock gardens that felt endless in the dark looked orderly in the morning, cairns and poles easier to spot, boot paths suddenly obvious. As I began the descent, my right knee chimed in. I do not have chronic knee problems and I had been seeing a PT before the trip, but that patellar tendon picked this moment to file a formal complaint.

After packing up the rest of our gear at Chileno, we began our hike down to Centre & Norte. We had an absolutely jam packed schedule that began at 3 a.m. and wouldn’t end until about 8 p.m. that night. The day looked like this:

• 3 a.m. sunrise hike
• Pack up the remainder of our gear at Chileno
• 6 miles back down to Centre & Norte
• *Hopefully, a cocktail at Las Torres Hotel, time permitting*
• Catch a shuttle bus to the park entrance
• Take our 3 p.m. bus for 2 hours back to Puerto Natales
• Pick up our stored luggage from the bus station
• Take a taxi to our rental car pickup (we rented a car to drive to Argentina)
• Dinner with a friend who was just about to begin her W Trek
• Finally, sleep at our very cute Domos.

Whew !

Across the Ascensio and Toward Real Lunch

We departed Chileno and I immediately popped ibuprofen to ease my my knee pain and moved carefully through the steepest bits until the medicine kicked in. The sun came out and with it my mood. The trail stays steep for long stretches, and a little controlled jog was easier on the big steps than a slow stomp. We passed a stream of day hikers coming up for the late-morning view. I was a tiny bit jealous of the sunshine and blue skies they might get at the lake, but I was not jealous of the climb they had ahead. I do not remember much flat until the very end.

Lower down, another suspension bridge appeared. We crossed the teal Ascensio River, the same ribbon we had seen threading the canyon near Windy Pass. At that point my brain pivoted to the Hotel Las Torres. We had planned to stop there for lunch and a very deserved cocktail before catching our buses.

As the hotel came into view, my mouth watered for French fries and tequila. I would pretty much pay anything at this point. We dropped our packs next to a parade of other dusty backpacks on the covered porch, used very clean, very nice bathrooms, and were seated inside. Honestly, this could have been a fast-food joint and I would still have been euphoric, but Las Torres is genuinely lovely after days of trail food.

The cocktails were out of this world. I ordered one that came with a slightly smoking cinnamon stick. It was truly delicious, regardless of the five days of backpacking that preceded it. We ate, we drank, and we talked through our favorite tiny moments from the trek, the ones you forget unless you pause to say them out loud.

Shuttle, Bus Shuffle, and How to Keep Your Seat

Fed and happy, we walked to the shuttle stop. This shuttle takes you from the hotel area back to the entrance where everyone shows park paperwork on the way in. The waiting building had souvenirs, bathrooms, and vending machines, a painless place to sit and reboot. When the shuttle rolled up, we loaded our stuff and headed for the transfer point to the larger bus to Puerto Natales.

At the next station, we found a friendly sea of weary hikers, packs everywhere, boots off, people slumped against walls with that half-asleep smile. Our bus was at 3:00 p.m. Getting back to Puerto Natales is usually simpler than leaving, but this staging area can get lively. Folks with later tickets sometimes try to board earlier buses, which can throw a wrench in the process.

What worked for us: load your things into the bus hold as soon as boarding begins and be direct with the driver about your ticket. When you book, it is for a specific time and seat. As long as you can show that you belong on that bus, you should be good. Hold firm. Do not let people with later tickets nudge you out of your spot. Be polite, be clear, and you will be fine.

Once we were in our seats on that lovely air-conditioned coach, sleep arrived fast. A book in my hands never felt heavier.

The W Trek Bottom Line

There it is, about seventeen hundred words on our final day of the W Trek: a 3 a.m. start in the rain, a ridge walk into rock steps and boulder hops, a sunrise that shifted from blue to pink to fire, a rainbow, a perfect drink at Las Torres, and the satisfying clunk of a bus seat under tired legs.

I am not a huge camper and this was the longest backpacking trip I had ever done, and still have done. It was worth the hours of travel, the wrong turns, the flapping tents, and the tendonitis. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Honestly, if you need a buddy for your trek, say the word.

If you want to know exactly what I would do differently check out my post here that highlights just that. If you are ready to plan your own Chilean Patagonia adventure, my Patagonia 101 post is here .

Thanks for reading. If you have questions, reach out. I am always happy to help fellow travelers and new backpackers with honest, practical feedback.

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The post W Trek Travel Diary: Day 5 – Sunrise at the Towers appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Chilean Patagonia is a bucket list dream for anyone who loves hiking and travel. And Torres del Paine National Park is the icon of the region, the place you picture when you think of jagged granite towers, teal lakes, and of course, the Patagonia logo. Reaching southern Chile usually takes some effort. So it makes sense to make the most of it. This comprehensive guide to the W trek will help you do exactly that.

There are a million resources on how to hike the W Trek. You could spend days comparing advice on routes, gear, camps, and food. Here, I am doing the heavy lifting for you and sharing the essentials I learned along the way, so you can plan with confidence.

Want the long version with daily feelings and funny moments? Read my W Trek travel diary for a day by day recap, check out the posts below:

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Transportation Overview

The trailheads for the W and O routes sit deep in the mountains of southern Chile and the town of Puerto Natales is the start for visiting Torres del Paine. Puerto Natales has domestic flights from Santiago and Puerto Montt and frequent buses.

You can technically fly to El Calafate in Argentina. Unless your trip already includes Argentina, this adds a border crossing and rarely saves time or money.

Two Key Decisions Before You Book

1. Direction. Do you want to hike west to east or east to west?
   • East to west: You complete the most difficult part of the hike first and get to see Las Torres during the true middle of the day. Additionally, there may be slightly less traffic going this direction. 
   • West to east: Build up over the 4-5 days of hiking. Day 5 culminates in a hike watching the sunrise over Las Torres. 
2. Comfort level. How much do you want to carry compared with how much you want to spend for convenience and a lighter pack?
   

Hiking Overview

Listed below are the two main routes to complete the W trek, both with advantages and disadvantages. See the charts below for more details, including: distance and elevation for each hiking section included. Apologies in advance for the clarity on the graphs.

Sample Itinerary West → East

Day 1

Option 1: Grey Glacier Catamaran → Refugio Grey

• Bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine entrance. Communicate with Hotel Lago Grey for a transfer from the park entrance to their hotel where you will take the catamaran.
• Book the catamaran cruise with Hotel Lago Grey for a one way journey. The best option is to grab the 3rd navigation, which is quite late in the day. However, this is the only navigation that allows you to stay on the boat AND see Grey Glacier up close and personal prior to disembarking at Refugio Grey.

Option #2:  Bus → Paine Grande → Refugio Grey

• Bus from Puerto Natales to Pudeto. 
• Hop on the Lake Pehoe ferry that jumps over a lake to Refugio Paine Grande. Otherwise plan on paying 27,000 CLP on the boat in cash. This route has you hike from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey where you will stay the night. You will return to Paine Grande the following day and stay the night there on day 2.

Day 2: Grey Glacier → Paine Grande

Day 3: Paine Grande → Cuernos or Frances with optional Mirador Britanico hike.

Day 4: Cuernos or Francés → Chileno

Day 5: Sunrise hike to the towers → Centre & Norte → Puerto Natales 

Sample Itinerary: East → West

Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Centre & Norte. Complete the hike to the towers and stay at Chileno or make it a day hike and head back down to Centre & Norte. 

Day 2: Centre & Norte or Chileno to Cuernos or Frances

Day 3: Cuernos or Frances → Paine Grande 

Day 4: Paine Grande → Grey Glacier

Day 5: Grey Glacier → Paine Grande → Lake Pehoe Ferry → bus to Puerto Natales 

What To Carry Versus What To Pay For

Sleeping and Shelter

Hot tip: I definitely have become more aware of germs since Covid and my years working in a hospital. While I wouldn’t say I am a complete germaphobe, I would recommend at least bringing your own sleeping bag if you choose to stay in the refugio cabins or tents. Sharing a sleeping bag (even utilizing your own liner!) with other sweaty hikers in remote locations where laundry and disinfection are limited, does not sound like my cup of tea.

Food

Bookings You Will Need

• Refugios and camps. Once you pick your direction and comfort level, book each night. I highly recommend booking through Torres Hike , which bundles all refugio and meal bookings and keeps your paperwork organized.

• Admission to Torres del Paine National Park  is mandatory. Buses stop at the administration building so staff can verify your entry. .

• Buses. Popular options include Bus Sur and aggregators like Bus bud. Buy your tickets early during peak months.

Packing List

Similar to all the guides/plans/recommendations on ways to complete the trek, you will also find a million packing lists all over the internet. Here are my straight to the point essentials. Packing is a bit of “choose your own adventure”, just remember everything you bring you have to carry. I have linked the exact things I brought with me! We had wind, rain, freezing temperatures, sun, sunburns (eek!) and everything in between. Through all that, my gear was never an issue. If you want a full break down on what went well packing and what I would change, check out my post here.

Clothing

• Rain Pants
• Rain Coat
• Fleece layer
• Warmer Coat/Puffer layer (optional). Bonus points if its packable.
• Undergarments (underwear, sports bras etc.)
• Pajamas: your choice. I bought Chill Angel‘s joggers which are temperature balancing pants. Check out their website to see all the amazing work they do for women and those with cancer!
• Socks for each day of the trek, including a fresh pair for sleeping. This will total 6 pairs of socks. 
• Shoes: hiking boots are NOT necessary ! A simple waterproof hiking shoe/trail runner will work perfectly. I LOVED these Hoka’s. I am notorious for foot blisters, and I had absolutely zero problems with these shoes for the entire trek.
• Camp Shoes: flip flops, sandals, I brought crocs for walking around camp and giving my feet some breathing time out of the hiking shoes.
• Tops: such as this Lulu Lemon or a classic Merino Wool. Bring 2-5, with at least one short sleeved and one long sleeved. This depends on how much you want to rewear.
• Bottoms: hiking pants/shorts, leggings etc. 2-4. I recommend at least 1 pant and 1 short. This depends on how much you want to rewear. A third bottom would be very nice if one pair of bottoms is wet from hiking the day before. 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Accessories

• Baseball cap : I recommend a custom one by Magnolia Made to commemorate your trek!
• Sunglasses
• Beanie
• Wallet and cash
• Toiletries: your call ! Showers are available at every refugio. So feel free to bring shampoo, conditioner, body wash, bar soap, whatever you’re willing to carry.
• Any medicines, glasses, contact lenses, hearing aids or personal items. 
• Electronics and solar charger. I brought: phone, apple watch, headphones and my kindle for evenings. 

Gear

• Backpacking backpack: find an REI and get fit for a backpack, it’s an invaluable experience. Must have a backpack rain fly, bonus points if the backpack turns into a day pack. I used the Osprey Ariel 55 L size small and it worked well for my petite 5’1 frame!
• Backpack Travel Pack : a bag for a bag yes, but keeps your backpacking straps, clips, handles etc. safe while traveling.
• Quick dry towel
• Head Lamp
• Water bottle and/or camelbak/hydration bladder
• If bringing your own gear/food
  • Backpacking tent
  • Camping pillow
  • Sleeping bag
  • Sleeping pad
  • Backpacking stove, pot, utensil
  • Coffee/hot water/hot drink mug

My Path

We booked later than ideal and could not find enough refugio beds for a group of five on every night. Thus, we chose to carry our own camping gear so we would be covered at all stops. Additionally, there was mixed reviews at the time about refugio meals, so we also packed our own food.

Our group hiked west to east. Starting at Grey Glacier and finishing with a sunrise at Las Torres, which was unforgettable. The towers hike felt brutal to me and the sunrise was both freezing (I had every layer on) and spectacular. As I was jogging down to Central and Norte mid morning, I was very happy not to be making that intense climb (central to the towers in one day, woof!). The one tradeoff is that I would have liked to see the towers under blue skies during the day instead of just at sunrise.

You: “why didn’t you just stick around for the sun to finish rising and see the towers in the daylight?”

That would have been ideal ! However, with this being the last day of our trek, we had a bus at 3pm that we had to make, plus a rental car pick up and drive to our accommodations just outside of town for the night. So that meant we had to hike down about 9 miles in total, plus packing up our gear and making sure we made it to the bus on time.

Overall, our choices worked. With hindsight, I might pay for a few more conveniences. Check out my post on what I would have done differently if I were to hike the W Trek again.

The Bottom Line

• Do not stress. Every mile of the W Trek is gorgeous. You will have an amazing time no matter which direction you hike or which refugio you choose.

• Train a little. The internet sometimes calls the W easy. While the trail is accessible, the elevation changes are real and “Patagonia flat” often means rolling climbs that add up. Try to get in some solid weight lifting and cardio before you go, just in case.

• Bag storage. The Puerto Natales bus station offers luggage storage. We combined suitcases into our backpack bags and stored three large bags for about $120 total for five days. It was simple to pick everything up on the way back as the bus from Torres del Paine arrived at the Puerto Natales bus station.

• Bus sanity. Leaving Puerto Natales is orderly and easy. Leaving the park can feel chaotic. Get in line early, show the driver your ticket, and make sure your bag is loaded. Some travelers will try to board buses they are not ticketed for because they are there and ready. Be patient and firm.

• That little white card. On arrival in Chile you receive a small PDI slip at immigration. Keep it with your passport. You may be asked for it at refugios, car rentals, or border checks. I threw mine in the garbage (no one said it was important!) in Puerto Natales. Fortunately, nothing dramatic happened and I was only asked for it at Grey Glacier, but the official guidance mentions a hefty fine. Better to keep it safe.

Have the best time. The effort you put into planning and hiking pays off with views and memories that do not fade.

The post Patagonia’s W Trek: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.