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Welcome to Day 3 of my play-by-play series of the W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park! Here, I’m talking trails, snacks, refugios, and everything in between to give you a real glimpse into what hiking Patagonia’s most famous route is actually like.
If you haven’t read about our VERY windy night at Paine Grande in Day 2 or the rough start of Day 1, check those out first before reading this day 3 W Trek guide. If you just want logistics and facts, my Patagonia planning guide is here. Otherwise, let’s get into Day 3.
Leaving Paine Grande
After the tent-flapping chaos of the previous night, we woke up groggy but ready to push on. Breakfast was easy thanks to Paine Grande’s BYO-friendly setup. This refugio is a dream for campers: it has a large indoor kitchen area where you can use your propane stoves and a spacious dining hall full of tables to hunker down from the elements. Having a roof over our heads while cooking felt downright luxurious.
By around 9 a.m., packs were cinched, boots were laced, and we were back on the trail.
Day 3 was always going to be the longest day. Our plan was to hike from Paine Grande to Cuernos, with an optional side hike to Mirador Británico. That extra trek adds about 3 miles and 1,800 feet of elevation gain, but the payoff is some of the best views on the W Trek. Cuernos itself is the most popular choice for Day 3 accommodation, thanks to its unbeatable views and lively atmosphere, but more on that later.
Flat Trails and Big Views
The day began on the flattest section of the entire W Trek. Glorious, glorious flat dirt trail. No rocks, no relentless inclines, just easy walking. With on-and-off showers, a little wind, and clouds drifting overhead, the weather was moody but cooperative.
For the first half of the day, we skirted along the very blue, very choppy Lake Pehoé. In the distance, dramatic snowcapped peaks towered above us. The mix of vivid lake blues, golden grasses, and steel-gray clouds felt like a painting. After two days of ever changing elevation, this part of the trail was a balm.
As we left the lake behind, fog rolled over the mountains, making me feel like Frodo heading toward Mordor. The cliffs were giving drama, and it truly felt like an orc could appear at any moment. The closer we got to the mountains, the more their layers of color stood out. Jagged rock faces striped with minerals, glaciers wedged in between peaks, it was Patagonia in its full cinematic glory.
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Crossing the Grey River
We followed the trail alongside the Grey River until reaching one of the W Trek’s few suspension bridges. It swayed slightly as we crossed, adding just enough thrill to make you laugh nervously while tightening your grip on the railing. Beyond the bridge, the inclines stayed gentle, nothing too gnarly.
Soon, turquoise Lake Nordenskjöld came into view. This alpine lake was pure aquamarine, the kind of color you’d think was photoshopped if you saw it in a picture. It reminded me of the glacial lakes in North Cascades National Park, so bright it looked fake.
After a bit, we arrived at Italiano, a now-closed refugio that serves as the base camp for Mirador Británico. Here, there’s a massive pack storage structure, so you can leave your heavy gear behind and hike up with just a day pack.
The Británico Decision
At Italiano, our group split. Some of us (the ambitious ones) headed up to Mirador Británico for the bonus miles and 1,800 feet of climbing. Others, myself included, opted to continue toward Cuernos.
I wanted to save energy for the remainder of the trek, and some of us decided to take the tents ahead to secure our platforms. Still, it was a tough call. Looking back, I feel a little torn. The photos from Mirador Británico are stunning, and yes, part of me wishes I went. But being realistic about my limits was the right choice. The trek is long, and pacing matters.
Lunch, Heat, and Rocky Beaches
After Italiano, the trail wound through brushy greenery before descending into a forested, rockier section. We stopped for lunch on a big boulder with the lake glittering in the distance. It felt good to rest, but as we continued downhill, the day warmed up. The humidity built, and between the rocks and trees, it got uncomfortably sticky.
Eventually, the path opened to fresh air and another jaw-dropping lake, this time right at the shoreline. Some hikers were brave enough to jump in. I settled for a quick toe dip, which was enough to confirm: icy, icy, icy.
The beach was beautiful but challenging. Instead of sand, it was covered in large, uneven rocks. My ankles worked overtime trying to stay steady. We also crossed a few streams where snowmelt ran straight into the lake. With no bridges, it was all rock-hopping. Luckily, trekking poles made it simple enough.
Passing Frances Refugio
Past the rocky beach, the trail began climbing again. We soon passed Frances Refugio, tucked into the forest. With recent rainfall, the area was muddy, and the walkways were basic and uneven wooden planks, not as polished as Paine Grande’s boardwalks.
Frances is a good option if you want a shorter Day 3, but our group was glad we pushed on. Cuernos promised better views, more space, and more energy.
By this point, I was dragging. My legs felt every step, and I was grateful I hadn’t tacked on the extra 6 miles to Mirador Británico.
Arrival at Cuernos Refugio
Finally, Cuernos came into view, and it was everything. Perched among the trees, the whole camp gave off serious treehouse vibes. Wooden walkways, tent platforms, and cabins blended into the forest. After long days of exposure, being nestled in the trees felt cozy and magical.
Cuernos quickly became my favorite refugio of the trek. The kitchen was lively, the atmosphere high-energy, and the views? Unbeatable. I also had a beer at Cuernos, so maybe I am a bit influenced by the booze. The turquoise lake stretched below, and jagged peaks towered above.
We were free to choose our own tent platforms, which meant scoping out three close together wasn’t easy. Eventually, we found a tucked-away spot with gorgeous views and just enough tree coverage. We set up all three tents so everything would be ready when the rest of our group arrived.
The Afternoon We Dreamed About
For the first time on the W Trek, we actually had a relaxing afternoon. We finished hiking around 3:00 p.m., grabbed a beer from the refugio, and spent a couple of hours reading, playing cards, and soaking in the scenery. This was the kind of “be done early, hang out, enjoy” afternoon we had envisioned before the trip, and it turned out to be the only day it actually happened.
At some point, I took out the French braids I’d been rocking since Day 1 and finger-combed my hair. The result? A wild mane that can only be described as “Hagrid chic.” Honestly, the photos are hilarious.
Pizza, Refugio Life, and Early Bedtime
When the rest of our group arrived 3.5 hours later, exhausted but triumphant from Británico, we celebrated with pizza from the refugio. The toppings were… unconventional: pulled pork, zucchini, and shredded carrots. But pizza is pizza, and after three days of dehydrated meals, it tasted amazing.
Like most refugios, Cuernos reserves its main indoor dining area for paying meal guests. Campers have to use the alternate kitchen and seating area. Thankfully, Cuernos’ camper space was solid with plenty of space to spread out and chill.
After dinner and a few more card games, we called it an early night. Tomorrow would be another big day, trekking to Chileno, our penultimate stop.
The Day 3 Bottom Line
Day 3 of the W Trek was long, full of contrasts: flat and easy stretches, humid rocky descents, icy lake dips, and cozy treehouse vibes at Cuernos. While I skipped Mirador Británico, arriving early at Cuernos and finally enjoying a relaxing afternoon was exactly what I needed.
If you’re planning your own trek, think carefully about where to stop this night. Frances is shorter, but Cuernos delivers on views and atmosphere. Either way, Day 3 is a big one.
Stay tuned for Day 4, where we make our way to Chileno Refugio for our second-to-last night.
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