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I’m a total homer for my hometown. I will always claim Portland is the best place to live on the planet. This not-small-not-large city is located an hour from both the beach and the mountains. Yes, it rains a lot, but Oregon summers are unbeatable and fall is next level. Portland prides itself on being weird, offers all the city conveniences (shopping, nightlife, activities), and somehow still maintains its lush greenery through its neighborhoods and parks.

Once known only for craft beer, Portland’s food and beverage scene has exploded. Today you can sip natural wine, find every type of donut imaginable, indulge in hand-crafted lattes, or eat your way through an ever-growing food truck culture. If that hasn’t convinced you that Portland deserves a place on your travel list, keep reading.

Here are 10 of my favorite things to do in Portland:

1. Forest Park

This 5,200-acre urban forest is the perfect place to “get out of the city” while staying right in town. Just 15 minutes from downtown, you’ll find over 80 miles of hiking, running, and biking trails. Want a deeper dive? Check out my full post on the best Forest Park trails and a dive into Portland lore.

2. Coffee

It’s basically impossible not to make this list all about food and drinks. Let’s start with coffee:

• Euko Coffee & Company: My favorite coffee shop to grab a latte, conveniently it just a stones throw away from where I work. Add in one of Jen’s Pastries that they carry in the shop (I recommend the homemade Poptarts!) which are just… wow.
  

• Albina Press: A very Portland coffee shop that I have loved for a decade. They have excellent service and some of the best coffee in the city.
  

• Kalesa Coffee: The coconut cold brew with ube whip is uniquely Portland, uniquely Kalesa, and frankly just f*cking delicious.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

3. Powell’s City of Books

Yes, it’s on every Portland list. But when a bookstore takes up a full city block, you include it. Even if you’re not on BookTok, wandering the stacks of Powell’s is a must. With everything from biographies to cook books, hand made tea towels and candles that will remind you of Portland, its hard to walk out of there without spending a fortune.

4. NW 23rd Avenue

A picturesque street lined with boutiques, restaurants, and bars, basically the perfect spot for a leisurely afternoon that leads into happy hour. Start at Burnside, end at Vaughn, and use the alphabetized cross-streets to track your progress. Don’t miss:

• Sloan (trendy women’s fashion)
  
• Salt & Straw (iconic ice cream, rotating seasonal flavors)
  
• Smith Teamaker (Portland tea institution)
  
• Fireside (happy hour cocktails and small bites)

5. McMenamins Kennedy School

McMenamins is technically a chain, but nothing feels chain-like about it. Yes the menus are similar and house brewed beer is the same but that is where the list ends. Each McMinnemans location holds something special and sometimes historical. The Crystal Hotel in downtown Portland has their very narrow annex bar which they call “pint-sized and pie shaped”. Edgefield out in Troutdale is a huge space with a mini golf course and an incredible outdoor concert venue. But McMinneman’s Kennedy School which is in the heart of NE Portland is a former school, turned bar/restaurant/hotel and has some gorgeous soaking pools. Spend the morning soaking, grab lunch (don’t miss the Cajun tots), and wander the quirky, historic building.

6. Bridge Walk

Portland has a lot of nicknames and one of them is Bridgetown. The Willamette River bisects the city to the east and west and there are 12 bridges that cross the river. We host yearly Bridge Pedals (bike races over the bridges) a Bridge to Brews 10k (running + beer over said bridges) amongst other things. If you want to experience the bridges first hand then a bridge to bridge stroll is for you. 

1. Starting at Roseline Coffee Roasters on the east side, grab a little caffeine to enjoy this walk. 
2. Walk down the Eastbank Esplanade towards the Steel Bridge. You’ll see its large towers. Walk across the lower pedestrian bridge. 
3. Walk south along the waterfront, if you are there for our glorious two weeks in March you will be rewarded with an incredible little forest of cherry blossom trees. 
4. Once you are near the Hawthorne Bridge, take note of Mills End Park, which was formerly the smallest urban park in the world, consisting of just one tree. 
5. You will continue walking along the water, passing the marina and large grassy knoll where the 4th of July Blue’s Festival takes place every year. 
6. Eventually you will have to cut away from the water a little bit, but keep going with the Tilikum Crossing Bridge your final destination. 
7. Cross over Portland’s newest (2015) bridge that allows only public transit and pedestrians. Marvel in its giant white structure. 
8. When you arrive back on the east side of Portland, you can walk along the gorgeous Springwater corridor, which is a mainstay of Oregon’s famous Hood to Coast Race. This is a 12 person relay race that races 200 miles from Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood to the beach in Seaside on the coast. 
9. Reward yourself with dinner at Shalom Ya’ll. 

7. Cathedral Park

I know we already did a bridge thing, but this time I want to take you into the heart of the St. John’s neighborhood. I think of it as Portland’s dead end cul-de-sac. It is nearly as north as you can be before hitting Washington and there isn’t much west of the neighborhood either. The draw here is the beautiful St. John’s Bridge. Made in the Gothic style, this green bridge is the tallest in Portland.

But don’t miss what lies under the bridge (said no one, ever). Check out Cathedral Park where you can stand at the top of the park and see the row of arches that support the bridge. Feel free to grab provisions for a picnic and hang out here for a couple hours, or head down to the dock to watch the ducks and boaters go by. 

8. Beer

Portland is one of the best craft beer destinations in the world. With over 80 breweries in Portland alone, you can find almost any beer you like and a style of pub to suit every need. Whether you need a family friendly spot or one open late into the night, the Portland beer scene has you covered. Here are a couple of my favorite spots, for your next visit: 

1. Steeplejack: Housed in a converted 1909 church (yes, there’s stained glass).
   

1. Wayfinder: Top-notch beer, elevated food, and a sunny patio.
   

1. Away Days: Bright, modern taproom with British-style ales. Food pop-ups and Portland sport watch parties are amazing here.
   

1. Schilling Cider: Not beer, but Portland cider deserves love too. They have rotating flavors and fun flights.

9. Donuts, Pastries, and Ice Cream

Portland takes sweets seriously. A few must-stops:

• Voodoo Doughnut: A quintessential Portland stop with Pink boxes, wild donut shapes (penis) and the maple bacon classic.
  

• JinJu Patisserie: James Beard-winning croissants and bonbons (worth the wait).
  

• Blue Star Donuts: Brioche-based, seasonal flavors, and cult favorites like Raspberry Rosemary Old Fashioned.
  

• Salt & Straw: Famous for seasonal flavors (Marionberry Slab Pie in summer, The Great Candicopia in October). You can opt to taste them all before committing or get a scoop or 4 for pure indulgence.
  

• Cheese & Crack Snack Shop: Sundaes layered like trifles, soft serve with “dusts” (coffee, matcha, strawberry), and optional chocolate cowboy hats. Yes, always add a cowboy hat to your cone.

10. Day Trips

If you’re lucky enough to have extra time, these are the best day trips from Portland, and all are just about 1-ish hours outside of the city. If you haven’t rented a car while visiting Portland, below are a couple tour options so you don’t miss whats just outside the city:

• Willamette Valley Wine Country: World-class Pinot Noir, vineyard views, tasting rooms galore.
  • Willamette Valley Wine Tour
  • Wine Tour Option 2
    
• Oregon Coast: An hour west to Seaside or Cannon Beach to see the famous Haystack Rock, chowder at Moe’s, and coastal breweries.
  • Oregon Coast Tour with Pickup
  • From Portland → Oregon Coast
    
• Hood River & Columbia River Gorge: Endless hikes (Dog Mountain, Dry Creek Falls, Multnomah Falls), fall farm stands, and the famous Fruit Loop.
  • Wine and Waterfalls !
  • Mt. Hood Day Tour
  • Columbia Gorge Scenic Bikeway

The Bottom Line

It was hard to pare this down to just 10 activities, Portland is that good. Whether you’re here for the food, the coffee, the beer, or just to see why locals can’t shut up about it, this city will win you over. Let me know your favorite stop when you visit!

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The post Portland Travel Guide: 10 Things Worth Doing on Your First Visit appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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One of my favorite things to do is plan weekends, day trips, or activities in my hometown, Portland, Oregon, especially for newcomers or visitors. I love showing people why Oregon is so much more than just the state above California and why Portland might secretly be the greatest city on the planet. And no matter the itinerary, I always include my local guide to Portland’s Forest Park.

Although it may not be as unique as I think it is, Forest Park is a giant connection of trails for hiking, running, mountain biking, exploring etc. that sits in the middle of the city. And while you will be competing for parking on weekend mornings with the locals, I think a short stroll or even a long trek along the 30 mile long Wildwood trail is an essential Oregon activity. Continue reading for my favorite trails and things to see while visiting Forest Park in Portland.

Warning!

Cute dog ahead. Forest Park was one of my favorite places to take our Golden Retriever- Ron Weasley. He loved to find mud on the trail and sniff every bush we passed. While he was a terrible running companion he did love to explore and adventure through the park. With that said, I apologize for the adorable dog in all my pictures below, you have been warned.

Why Forest Park is a Must-See in Portland

Forest Park is 5,200 acres of, you guessed it, forest, right in the middle of the city. It actually separates downtown Portland from the western suburbs like Beaverton, home to Nike’s headquarters (and where I grew up). It’s one of the largest urban forests in the United States, with over 80 miles of trails, forest roads, and fire lanes.

Don’t expect a manicured park with fountains, and don’t plan on camping here. Forest Park is its own thing, part wild, part city escape, with mossy trees, quirky Portland touches, and incredible views.

Most visitors come to hike, but you can also run, bike, or wander your way up to Pittock Mansion for a panoramic view of Portland. The best part? You can reach trailheads in just 15 minutes from downtown. While the Columbia River Gorge and Mount Hood area offer epic hikes, they require longer drives, permits, and crowded parking lots. Forest Park gives you a taste of Oregon’s outdoors without leaving the city.

Best Hikes in Forest Park

Lower Macleay to Pittock Mansion

• Distance: 4.9 miles
• Elevation gain: ~900 feet
• Parking: limited parking at the trailhead roundabout, but plenty of street parking on nearby street.

This hike takes you along a shady creek, past mossy trees, and by the iconic Witch’s Castle (more on that below). The bubbling of the creek provides an atmosphere that makes you feel like the city isn’t just a few blocks away. You’ll finish at Pittock Mansion with sweeping views of the city and, on clear days, Mount Hood.

Upper Macleay to Pittock Mansion

• Distance: 2.5 miles
• Elevation gain: ~500 feet
• Parking: located at the trail head is a parking lot with a decent number of spots.

If you’re short on time but still want the big payoff view, start higher up and take this shorter version of the Pittock Mansion hike. Same views, less effort.

Wildwood Trail: any section

• Distance: 30.2 miles total, choose your section
• Parking: varied depending on which section of the trail you choose.

The Wildwood Trail is the backbone of Forest Park. Locals use it for long runs and even ultra-marathon training, but you can hop on anywhere, walk as long as you’d like, and turn around. A great starting point is Washington Park, where you can connect your hike with other Portland icons like the Japanese Garden, International Rose Test Garden, or Hoyt Arboretum.

One of my favorites is a trail which takes you from the Vietnam Memorial to Lower Macleay Park, but most importantly it takes you into a grove of impressive redwood trees. If you want to explore that area check out this trail is for you.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Ridge Trail

• Distance: 4 miles roundtrip
• Elevation gain: ~850 feet
• Parking: plenty of parking in the free lot.

One of my absolute favorites. While I usually do the hike in reverse, starting down near the bridge, follow this trail for navigation ease. The Ridge Trail starts in a downhill, saving your climb back up for the end. You are rewarded at the half way point with epic views of the gothic-style St. Johns Bridge. Enjoy the Trillium flowers and mossy trees as you climb back up towards the parking lot with your car. In general, especially on these remote trailheads, don’t leave anything out in your car.

Honorable Mentions

Here are a few more hikes within Forest Park that are also awesome:

• Northwest Firelane 15
• Dogwood & Wild Cherry Loop
• Witch’s Castle via Wildwood Trail

Witch’s Castle: A Touch of Portland Lore

No Forest Park guide is complete without a stop at the Witch’s Castle (also known as the Stone House). The structure itself is eerie, but the backstory is even darker.

Legend has it that Danford Balch hired a man called Mortimer Stump to help clear out his land. While working for Balch, Stump fell in love with Balch’s eldest daughter. Despite Balch’s disapproval, Stump and the daughter eloped. When they returned to the cabin to collect their belongings, Balch killed Stump for dragging his daughter away and marrying her. While on trial, Balch blamed away his murder by saying that his wife “bewitched” him (classic). He became the first legal hanging in Oregon and locals say their ghosts still haunt the area today.

Whether you believe in ghosts or not, walking past Witch’s Castle is a rite of passage for Portland hikers. While the story is true and ghosts are a maybe (?) you can’t deny the eeriness that is felt when walking past this stone house.

Conservation

Of course, as with any green space in a city, there is a focus on maintaining the trails and keeping the park clean and safe for all visitors. The Forest Park Conservancy tackles this effort with grace over the entire 5,200 acre park. The conservancy’s mission is to protect the park while maintaining access and recreation. On top of a myriad of programs that they provide, they have different benchmarks to meet within the park depending on the season and maintenance goals. While Portlanders and visitors alike do an excellent job of staying on the trail and keeping the paths free of litter and dog waste, the conservancy still has work to do.

While donations are widely accepted to support the conservation of the park, they also host monthly community work days throughout the year. These can be planting parties, raking parties or my favorite, invasive ivy management. There are 3 types of European ivies that have made their way to the US. While they may seem beautiful growing along a brick wall, in the reality of living in a forest is that they grow spiraling up trees, eventually stealing all of the trees nutrients and suffocating them. Additionally, the vines act as fuel if a wildfire were to occur. But for me, yanking the ivy off the trees and from the ground is incredibly fun and satisfying.

The Bottom Line

Forest Park is one of Portland’s true gems, an urban escape where you can hike through mossy trees, explore local legends, and still be back downtown in time for craft beer and food truck tacos. On your next trip to Portland, don’t skip it. You might just find me out there on a run or walking with friends. And who knows, maybe you’ll even spot a ghost at Witch’s Castle.

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The post Portland’s Forest Park: A Local’s Guide to Trails, Views & Planning appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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In 2021, I was on my second national park road trip with my best friend, Lindsey. Our goal was the remote beauty of Big Bend National Park in southwest Texas, where the Rio Grande slices between the United States and Mexico. While Big Bend deserves its own love letter, this story belongs to a different West Texas icon: Marfa, Texas.

Somewhere along Route 90, after two hours of wide-open desert and that particular shade of blue Texas sky, we spotted it. A pristine, all-white Prada boutique standing alone in the Chihuahuan Desert. Real shoes and real handbags. Zero sales associates. If you know, you know. If you do not, welcome to Marfa.

That “store” is Prada Marfa, a permanent art installation created in 2005 by artists Elmgreen & Dragset. It sits along U.S. Route 90 near the tiny town of Valentine, about 30 minutes from Marfa. The door is always locked and the goods inside are from Prada’s 2005 collection. It is not a store at all. It is land art with a sense of humor and a lot to say about luxury and place.

Marfa is full of these delightful contradictions. A tiny ranching town that became a global art destination. A place where you can spend the morning discussing minimalism, the afternoon sipping natural wine, and the evening scanning the horizon for mysterious dancing lights. Below you will find essentials stops, shopping, art and where to grab a drink.

A Quick History of Marfa, Texas

Marfa began as a water stop and freight hub for the Texas railway in the late 1800s. In the mid 1900s it hosted the Marfa Army Airfield. Then 1971 the minimalist artist Donald Judd moved here, transforming portions of the former air base into large-scale indoor and outdoor installations. His vision became the Chinati Foundation, home to major works including 100 untitled pieces installed in two converted artillery sheds, plus fifteen monumental concrete works set out on the land. Guided tours are available, and the outdoor concrete works can be viewed on select days without a tour.

Marfa also caught Hollywood’s eye. It provided backdrops for Giant with James Dean, No Country for Old Men, and There Will Be Blood. Additionally, if you want a dose of the unexplainable, head nine miles east of town to the official Marfa Lights Viewing Area. Some visitors have reported glowing orbs and dancing lights on the horizon for more than a century. The viewing site is right on US 67/90 and is free to visit.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Essential Marfa Art Stops

You could gallery hop here for days. A few musts:

Chinati Foundation
The heart of the Judd story in Marfa. Expect large-scale works that live in conversation with landscape and light. Book a guided tour for the full collection.

Judd Foundation
Judd’s preserved living and working spaces, kept largely as he left them. It is an intimate window into how he thought about space, objects, and place.

Ballroom Marfa
A non-profit contemporary art space housed in a 1920s ballroom with rotating installations and performances. They helped commission Prada Marfa, so yes, you can thank them for the desert boutique that broke the internet and inspired celebrity pit stops.

The Art Blocks
Technology meets craftsmanship. Expect thoughtful exhibitions that play with code, materials, and process.

Bonus light show
If you are visiting in the cooler months, sunrise and sunset reveal why artists obsess over Marfa’s quality of light. Clear skies, big horizons, and long shadows make even the gas stations look cinematic.

Shops You Will Want to Move Into

Marfa’s retail scene is a treasure hunt. Hours change, doors open when they open, and somehow that makes it better. Plan to wander and pop into whatever is calling your name or whatever is available when you visit.

Marfa Mood Mercantile
I left with a marigold cap that says “Queso” in block letters and I feel like that describes the vibe of the mercantile perfectly. I happen to love the hat and live with zero regrets.

Raba Marfa
One-of-a-kind vintage finds with racks that turn over constantly. Stop twice if you can.

Communitie Marfa
A western-leaning boutique with clothing, home goods, and the kind of Stetsons that make you feel like a movie star on a windblown highway.

Wrong Store
A little bit of everything. The selection is so wrong it loops back around to perfect.

The Sentinel
Textiles, gemstones, and coffee by day, cocktails by later-in-the-day. It is run in connection with the local newspaper and doubles as a community hub. I met the world’s friendliest bartender here and discovered the Ranch Water, which became a Texas fave. Tequila, lime and Topo Chico, add a Tajin rim and you’re in business.

Places You’ll Take Food Pics At

Marfa Burrito
Start your morning strong. It is an institution. Massive tortillas, perfect fillings, open early and late enough for all your burrito needs.

Alta Marfa
A small winery with a relaxed tasting room in town. Natural-leaning wines, excellent small plates on select nights, and a cozy vibe that fits Marfa’s artsy pace.

Big Bend Coffee Roasters
Organic and Fair Trade roastery with deep local roots. If the roastery is open, you can stop for a souvenir bag of coffee beans or even a tour. Their blends show up all over West Texas, but getting it at the source hits different.

Marfa Spirit Co.
A destination distillery crafting signature booze in chicly labled bottles. Drop in for a tasting, seasonal cocktails, and live music when the schedule aligns. 

The Water Stop
Brunch to burgers with a fried chicken sandwich that lives rent-free in my mind.

El Turista
Roadside Mexican that tastes like a victory lap. Grab a Marfa Burrito for breakfast and El Turista tacos for dinner to properly indulge in the town’s Mexican fare.

The Marfa Lights

If you are lucky, you will catch the Marfa Lights after sunset from the official viewing area east of town. Some folks chalk them up to car headlights dancing through layers of warm desert air. Others think there is a little magic involved. Either way, bring a jacket and give it time. The show tends to appear without warning.

Practical Marfa Tips

• Plan your driving. Marfa is remote. El Paso is the most common airport and the drive is roughly three hours with big stretches of nothing but open road.
  

• Check hours. Galleries and shops keep unpredictable schedules. If a shop door is open, go in.
  

• Hydrate and protect. The high desert is dry, sunny, and windy. Pack water, SPF, and a hat.
  

• Book ahead for popular tours at Chinati and the Judd Foundation, especially if visiting on weekends.
  

• Make time for side trips. If you can add a few days to your trip then make sure to add Big Bend National Park. In my opinion it is a bucket list destination and worth the drive.
  

The Bottom Line

Marfa is proof that small places can hold big ideas. It is ranch land and refined art. It is a roastery that smells like heaven and a white cube filled with aluminum boxes that somehow make you feel things. The Prada in the desert, acts as a lighthouse of sorts for road trippers who love a good plot twist. And yes, Beyoncé popped by the Prada Marfa site, which feels like the most Marfa sentence ever.

If you find yourself in West Texas, absolutely make sure you detour here. Wander the galleries, sip something delicious, chase the lights, and let this tiny town surprise you.

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If you didn’t know to look for it, you’d never stumble upon Mesa Verde. Tucked outside of Cortez, Colorado, this gem of a park is full of ancient history, jaw-dropping cliff dwellings, and some surprisingly accessible hiking trails. I first visited Mesa Verde during a two-week National Park road trip, and it immediately became one of my favorite stops. Here’s everything you need to know, from cliff dwellings to hiking trails to where to stay, so you can plan your perfect Mesa Verde adventure.

About Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde sits near Mancos, Colorado, west of Durango and just a stone’s throw from the Four Corners. What makes this park unlike any other is its ancient pueblos. For centuries, Ancestral Pueblo people built thriving communities on the mesas and, later, directly into the cliffs themselves. These dwellings range from single storage rooms to complexes with over 150 rooms. And the best part? You can still visit many of them today.

Some of these dwellings are more than 1,400 years old. Standing before them, you can almost picture daily life: families cooking, artisans carving, kids darting between walls. It’s living history in the truest sense.

Most visitors can see the highlights in one day, but if you want to do multiple hikes and tours, plan for two to three days.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps—service is spotty at best.
  
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
  
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need.
  
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
  
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
  
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.
  

Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

How to Get There

Mesa Verde is best as part of a Southwest National Park road trip or if you are visiting the four corners or want to make the trek while visiting Colorado. If you’re flying, here are your airport options:

• Cortez Airport (CEZ): ~1 hour to the park.
  
• Durango Airport (DRO): ~1.5 hours.
  
• Albuquerque (ABQ): ~4.5 hours.
  
• Denver (DEN): ~6 hours.
  

FYI: once you reach the entrance, you’ll still have about a 45-minute winding drive before hitting the first cliff dwellings. You will definitely want to factor in this drive when making your plans for the days and when picking accommodations options. 

Where to Stay

Far View Lodge

• Season dependent. 
• This beautiful hotel resides in the middle of the park. You can’t find a more convenient location. It is about a 30 minute drive from the park entrance and makes a great home base for exploring the park over a couple of days. This hotel is only open from April to October. Please check the website for seasonal prices. 

Morefield Campground

• $38-$51
• This expansive campground is located just 4 miles outside of the park. It has plenty of RV spots and tent camping options, but it is recommended to reserve in advance. This campground is nestled in a scenic canyon where wild deer and turkeys roam. The campground is only open from April to October. You’ll find a fire pit, barbecue, gravel tent pad and picnic table at each spot. Additionally there is a small camp store for firewood and other bits and bobs as well as full bathroom services nearby. 

Cortez Retreat

• $175/night. 
• This beautiful property sits outside of the main town of Cortez. What you lack in convenience to the town you make up for in beauty. The house accommodates up to 6 guests and has a fully equipped kitchen and hot tub. This would be a perfect spot for a family, with tons of outdoor space to run around. 

Mountain View Escape

• $170/night. 
• The Mountain View Escape is a large cabin that sits outside of the main town of Cortez. Its modern amenities and decor make it a perfect spot for those who want to relax and stay in a house with updated features. But the best part is the view form the deck, over looking the never ending prairie and mountains in the distance. 

Single Family Home

• $110/night.
• This house is conveniently located just blocks off of the main street in Cortez. It just nearby to the Carpenter Nature Preserve that has trails for hiking and biking. The house has a driveway for parking convenience, two bedroom and large backyard and fire pit. 

Honorable Mentions

There are a handful of hotels in Cortez itself, but I found the AirBnbs a better bargain. If you are staying a short time or don’t mind more dated accommodations check out these hotels. 

• Retro Inn Mesa Verde (my favorite option!)
• Hampton Inn Mesa Verde
• Holiday Inn Express Mesa Verde

Park Access + Hot Tips

Don’t forget that entry to the park for 4 people/1 car is $30. If you plan on visiting more than 1 day or multiple national parks during the year you should opt for the year long pass. It has paid dividends for me time and time again. The America the Beautiful pass is $80, lasts for an entire year and has unlimited park access. Grab yours here. 

If you’re coming from certain directions, don’t miss the Four Corners Monument, the exact spot where Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico meet. It’s only 40 minutes from Cortez, so it’s a fun extra stop.

Things to Do

Guided Tour

The National Park service provides a guided tour of the Cliff Dwellings that allow you to be boots on the ground in and near the actual dwellings themself. It is such an incredible opportunity to see the hard work of the Ancestral Pueblo people up close and personal. You cannot enter the cliff dwellings (but can see them from afar, keep reading!) without taking this guided tour. There are some caveats for getting this booked. 

• Tours are provided May-October. 
• Create an account at recreation.gov to expedite your tour booking process, as they fill up quickly. 
• Reservations open 2 weeks in advance at 8:00 am MDT. 
• Once you have your tickets, they will be digital only. Make sure to screen shot or have them downloaded/saved on your phone as service in the park is hit or miss. 
• If you aren’t able to obtain tickets, keep an eye on the dates you arrive as people cancel/reschedule and those tickets become available again.

Cliff Palace Loop Drive

A 6-mile scenic loop that delivers the best views of multiple cliff dwellings from overlooks. Besides the guided tour, this is my top choice of activities to accomplish while at the park. Must-see stops:

• Cliff Palace Overlook (my personal favorite)
  
• Cliff Canyon Overlook
  
• House of Many Windows Overlook
  
• Hemenway House Overlook
  
• Soda Canyon Overlook Trail (best view of Balcony House)
  

Mesa Top Loop Road

Another 6-mile loop, especially great for accessibility. Stops include:

• Pit House
  
• Navajo Canyon View
  
• Square Tower House
  
• Oak Tree House
  
• Sun Point View (Cliff Palace)
  
• Sun Temple
  

Stargazing

Mesa Verde is an International Dark Sky Park, so the stars here are unreal. On Wednesday nights, rangers host stargazing talks at the amphitheater, complete with telescopes and laser pointers. Bring a red light flashlight and warm clothes.

Hikes

The park is split up into 3 separate areas: Morefield Canyon, Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa. You can find hikes in all 3 parts of the park ranging from little half mile quickies to more strenuous outings. Here are some recommended hikes from each section. 

Morefield Canyon

Point Lookout Trail

• 2.2 miles, + 400 feet elevation
• This hike takes you the top of point Lookout, from here you will have views of the San Juan and La Plata Mountains as well as the Mancos and Montezuma Valleys. A beautiful hike with an even better view point. 

Prater Ridge Trail

• 7.8 miles roundtrip. North loop 5.7 miles, South loop 4.6 miles, +675 feet. 
• Prater Ridge has a choose your own adventure vibe. You start by hiking the ridge itself and can follow the North loop to follow the mesa’s edge looking out over Montezuma Valley or the south loop which overlooks Prater and Morefield Canyons. 

Chapin Mesa

Petroglyph Point Trail

• 2.4 miles, + 227 feet. 
• If there is one hike you do while in Mesa Verde NP this is the one. You get iconic viewpoints of Navajo and Spruce Canyon and on top of that you can see an ancient petroglyph panel that is really quite impressive. This hike does include a little rock scrambling and narrow passage ways, but is generally easy to complete. 

Spruce Canyon Trail

• 2.4 miles, +558 feet.
• This hike takes you down into Spruce Canyon and back out again. While it is a beautiful hike amongst the long grasses and plants of the canyon, some find it not terribly scenic. However, if you are doing the Petroglpyh trail, you can combine both hikes. Here is how:
  • Turn left at the Spruce Tree House Overlook and hike around the head the canyon, following the Petroglyph trail in reverse.
  • When you arrive at the trail junction with Spruce Canyon Trail, take a left. 

Wetherill Mesa

Opt for the guided tour while in this part of the park. See above for booking. 

Nordenskiold Site No. 16 Trail

• 2 miles, +95 feet
• This hike is named for Swedish scholar Gustaf Nordenskiöld who excavated these dwellings in 1891. This easy hike looks off cliff dwellings in Rock Canyon and is comprised of about 50 rooms. 

The Bottom Line

Mesa Verde National Park might be a little out of the way, but it’s absolutely worth the journey. With its unique cliff dwellings, scenic drives, stargazing, and diverse hikes, it’s unlike any other park in the U.S. If you’re planning a National Park road trip, or just want to experience living history in the American Southwest, add Mesa Verde to your list.

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In 2020, when the world shut down during the Coronavirus pandemic, my girlfriends and I needed an escape. Originally, we had planned a two-week backpacking trip through Patagonia (which we did up taking and you can read about here! ), but international restrictions pushed us to stay stateside. Instead, we mapped out a two-week National Park road trip through the American Southwest.

Minimal flying, lots of driving, and six incredible parks later, it turned out to be exactly what we needed. We started in Death Valley, continued to the Grand Canyon, and then made stops at Petrified Forest, Capitol Reef, Mesa Verde, Arches, Canyonlands, and finally the Bonneville Salt Flats outside Salt Lake City.

This post, however, is not just a trip recap. It’s the story of our time at the Grand Canyon, a rim-to-river hike, and what turned out to be a comedy of errors in our glamping accommodations.

Hiking the Grand Canyon

We arrived at the Grand Canyon around 5 pm, just in time for sunset at the Drive 11 viewpoint. Breathtaking doesn’t even begin to describe it. We spent our evening here admiring how the canyon was lighting up golden in the evening light and watched as the cotton candy sky turned from pink to purple. We were mesmerized thinking about how we would be at the bottom of the canyon the next day, and for some reason not at all intimidated that we had to climb out of that canyon too.

Originally, we had planned to do a shorter hike, like Plateau Point via Bright Angel  or South Kaibob to Skeleton Point. But in classic overconfident fashion, we thought, “Why not go all in?”

So we set out to hike from South Kaibab down to Phantom Ranch and back up via Bright Angel Trail, a rim-to-river-to-rim adventure. It was one of the three hardest hikes I’ve ever done, but also one of the most rewarding.

Looking back, we were young and unprepared. No hiking poles, no electrolytes, and not nearly enough water. Reviews will now tell you how critical those things are, and they’re right. I remember looking up, late into the hike when I was out of water and my apple watch had died, and thought “surely I don’t have to climb to the edge up there??” Well, surely, I was wrong. The rim is the edge and you’re not out of the canyon until you reach it. Somehow, we survived (some of us even thrived), and the memory is one I’ll never forget.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Accommodation Goals

At some point in the planning process, we decided we wanted to indulge in a glamping experience. But because some of the National Parks we were visiting were a bit remote we decided that the Grand Canyon was probably our best option. We thought about how cool we would be versus staying with all the other hikers in the hotels near the park entrance. Now, these were not Under Canvas tents FYI (the best for glamping!) , but Yurts found on AirBnb. And actually this story is no shade to them and all shade to us. We had 2 separate yurts, so I was bunking with my bestie Lindsey. 

Night One: The “Murderer”

After sunset at the canyon, we drove off-road through a dark field to find the yurts. While the sunset was beautiful, we did have regrets as we were off-roading in the pitch black, with only a distant lit up cabin guiding our way. We were able to identify our yurts and discovered we were a bit farther apart than we thought we would be. With our plans in place and meeting time set Lindsey and I traversed the makeshift roads over to our yurt after dropping the other gals off.

Once settled, we were chatting in bed when we heard scratching on the “walls”. Naturally, as Millennial women, and true crime junkies, our first thought was “murderer.” We let the sound go and thought weird, maybe it was the wind, or the yurt? But the scratching kept coming. We peaked outside to our friends across the way and the lights were off. We contemplated waking them up, but as friends it was our duty to protect the others from the murderer.

Our Heroes

Armed with nothing but car keys and our phones, we messaged the host via the Airbnb app.

“Hey, we are hearing some weird noises at our yurt, are there people walking around here at night?”, we asked innocently.

Luckily, it wasn’t too late so we received a swift response from the host. She said she would come check it out, meanwhile we were crossing our fingers that she brought mace or a knife with her.

We diligently watched the tent for shadows outside and were trying to make a plan before our knight and shining armor (a woman and her teenage daughter) arrived. They quickly came to check… only to find the culprit was a cow brushing against the yurt. The owner of the neighboring land had cows who were known to wander. Not exactly a murderer, but enough to keep us on edge the rest of the night.

Were we over dramatic? Maybe. But was it terrifying in the moment, yes.

Night Two: The Smoke Show

The second day commences and we do a beautiful, all day, thigh burning, never ending hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back out. I spent last few miles of the hike with a group of girls (my friends were a bit faster than me), as we stopped for a break at about every other switchback. COVID be damned, I was just happy to find others struggling as much as I was.

When we arrived back at our yurts, desperately needing sleep and comfort, we decided to light the wood stove for warmth (it was November after all). The yurt had a wood stove and a small propane space heater. The night before had not been as cold, but we were expecting a windy night and after a long day we wanted some warmth for our already sore muscles.

We filled the stove with wood and got the fire blazing. We thought “lets make a big one, so that it will be warm and it will last all night.” Well we did that! Within minutes of lights out and an attempt at sleep, my eyes started burning, and my friend began coughing. We flipped the lights on to discover the yurt was filled with smoke.

Rectifying our Mistake

Turns out, the stove pipe wasn’t sealed correctly. Thus the smoke was billowing into the yurt instead of venting outside. In a matter of minutes our beautiful, warm, blazing fire was actually trying to suffocate us slowly with thick, black smoke.

We snuffed the fire immediately and began to empty the yurt of smoke and all the warmth we had procured. We opened all our doors and windows to air the yurt out. This was my personal nightmare, as I hate, hate, hate when I smell of campfire smoke. So one of my main priorities was getting all of our stuff outside to air out before the smoke had time to set into every article of clothing I would wear for the next week.

With our warmth gone and the wind starting to pick up, we had to rely on the small propane heater for the rest of the night. Not exactly the cozy glamping evening we envisioned. Add that on to sore muscles, exhaustion and an early wake up call to drive to the next park, yikes. 

Insult to Injury

Remember how I said we knew it was going to be a windy night? Well, after the task of fixing our fire mistakes, we then had the weather to contest with. As soon as we started to doze off the wind started making itself known. The canvas sides of our yurt were flapping excessively with each blow of the wind. We were in a large field, with no trees or large rocks to protect our camps.

And unfortunately, I am a very light sleeper. But to be honest, you could be a heavy sleeper and probably would have still suffered the tent flapping like we did. So after smoking ourselves out and the DOMS turning out to not be so delayed, we also spent all night tossing and turning. Covering our head with pillows and sweatshirt hoods, pulling our beanies down over our eyes and ears to lessen the constant flap of the yurt.

I count this as one of the worst nights of sleep I have ever had.

Lessons Learned from Our Grand Canyon Yurt Stay

• Don’t panic, scratching on the tent is probably not a murderer (but stay alert).
  

• If you want a seamless glamping experience, book with Under Canvas or another reputable provider. Again, no shade to the owner of these yurts, these were mostly user errors and weather which is outside of their control.
  

• Always test your wood stove with a small fire before committing to a roaring blaze.
  

• Bring humor with you, these kinds of mishaps turn into the best stories later.

The Bottom Line

Our Grand Canyon trip was equal parts exhausting, hilarious, and unforgettable. Between the thigh-burning rim-to-river hike and the comedy of errors at our Airbnb yurt, it was an adventure that made us laugh for years to come.

If you want to read more about our COVID years National Park roadtrips you can find them here:

1. American Southwest National Park Roadtrip
2. Texas to Arizona National Park Roadtrip

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You really can’t go wrong when visiting Maui. The island has blossomed into a full-on vacation mecca, surf lessons, mai tais topped with lilikoi foam (IYKYK), sea turtles crawling up the sand, and sunsets that turn the sky into a sherbet-colored dreamscape. Bliss comes easy here and how could it not when there is a myriad of white sand wonders to spend your day. Read on to discover the 5 amazing beaches in Maui that I would tell my best friend about.

While posting up at the beach near your hotel is always convenient (and fun), I’m here to urge you: rent that car, pack your towel, and go explore. Maui is meant to be experienced through its beaches, and each one brings something unique to the table. Whether it’s snorkeling, swimming, or simply finding a peaceful cove to watch the sun melt into the horizon, there’s a spot for everyone.

So, grab your SPF, toss a cooler in the backseat, and let’s explore five of the best beaches in Maui.

1. Honolua Bay Beach – Best for Snorkeling

Tucked into Maui’s northwest coast, Honolua Bay Beach isn’t your typical Kaanapali stretch of soft sand. Instead, it’s a secluded bay surrounded by jungle, with rocky shores that give way to some of the island’s best snorkeling.

Slip into the water here and you’ll likely spot vibrant fish, sea turtles, and maybe even a pod of dolphins if you’re lucky. On land, chickens roam freely, and the short jungle walk to the bay feels like its own adventure. Don’t miss the lookout point before you descend, the water below shifts from deep navy blue to turquoise in a way that’s almost unreal.

Pro tip: This beach is rocky, so bring water shoes and beach chairs for comfort.

Parking: Dirt lot just after crossing the one-way bridge. If it’s full, park along the road south of the bridge.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

2. Kapalua Beach – Calm and Family-Friendly

Nestled between resorts in northern Maui, Kapalua Beach is a crowd favorite, and for good reason. While you’ll find more people here than at a hidden cove, the perks outweigh the popularity.

The snorkeling is incredible thanks to the calm bay, which stays fairly sheltered from large waves. It’s one of the best places for beginners to get in the water. On land, the soft golden sand is perfect for lounging and families especially love the safe swimming conditions.

Once you’ve had your fill of the water, walk the Kapalua Coastal Trail, a scenic little path that hugs the shoreline with views that will make you stop every five minutes for photos.

Parking: Free street parking only on Lower Honoapi’ilani Rd. Arrive early or circle patiently.

3. Pa’ako Cove (Secret Beach) – A Hidden Gem

While not exactly a “secret” anymore, Pa’ako Cove still feels like a special discovery. Tucked away in Kihei, this cove is framed by a wall of trees and split by a massive rock that juts out into the water. Locals often fish from the rock, and the divided surf creates unique swimming conditions, with stronger waves on one side.

The golden sand, cozy size, and turquoise waters make this my personal favorite beach in Maui. It feels intimate and magical, even when a few other beachgoers are around.

Pro tip: Keep an eye out for the tiny “beach access” sign near a speed bump. If you miss the break in the stone wall, you’ll walk right past it.

Parking: Street parking only. Arrive early for the best spots, or park near Makena State Park and walk over.

4. Big Beach (Makena Beach) – Wide Open Sands

Drive just a little further south from Pa’ako Cove and you’ll hit Big Beach , which, as the name suggests, is massive. The white sand stretches out endlessly, making it easy to spread out and claim your own slice of paradise.

The swimming here is excellent. With no rocks to worry about, you can wade in and out freely. The contrast of blue skies against the ombre shades of the water, from deep navy to bright teal, is postcard perfect.

If you’re traveling with a group or want a spot to spend an entire day, Big Beach has plenty of space and facilities to make it comfortable.

Parking: Large paid lot onsite. Pay at the kiosk near the beach entrance.

5. Maluaka Beach – Turtle Town

At first glance, Maluaka Beach might look like “just another Maui beach.” But this small golden stretch is home to some of the island’s best turtle sightings, which is why it’s often called Turtle Town.

Snorkeling here is fantastic, especially if you swim out a little further. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself floating next to a honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle). On clear days, you can also see the islands of Molokini and Lanai in the distance.

Come in the morning if you want shade, or return for sunset when the view turns into a watercolor painting of pinks, oranges, and purples.

Parking: Across from Keawala’i Church. Look for the lot with restrooms and showers.

Tips for Respecting Maui’s Beaches

• Always pack out what you pack in.
  

• Respect wildlife, especially turtles. Observe, don’t touch and don’t be the ass hole who gets too close for photo ops. Its yucky.
  

• Keep your music low or wear headphones. Not everyone came for your beach playlist.
  

• Be mindful of locals. Many beaches are their daily hangouts, not just tourist spots.
  

The Bottom Line

While you can’t really go wrong with any beach in Maui, these five stand out for their beauty, variety, and unique experiences. From snorkeling with turtles to lounging on wide-open sands, each beach offers its own slice of paradise.

I hope this inspires you to explore beyond your resort and see more of what Maui has to offer. Trust me, once you dip into the turquoise waters and feel that Hawaiian sun, you’ll already be planning your next trip back. If you are hoping to explore more of the island or just want to read my Haleakala sunrise do-overs, you can find that here.

If you have questions or want more Maui tips, drop me a note, I love helping fellow travelers plan their adventures.

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About Death Valley

Death Valley is one of the hottest places in the United States, not just among national parks, but anywhere in the country. In summer, temperatures regularly soar past 115°F. Yet this desert is also a land of opposites. When rain does fall, the cracked earth blooms into wildflowers. Winter can dust the Panamint Range with snow while the basin below sits hundreds of feet beneath sea level.

I visited Death Valley National Park as the very first stop on a two-week National Park road trip. Starting here set the tone for the trip in the best way. The landscapes shocked me, shimmering salt flats, jagged salt spires that look otherworldly, hidden waterfalls tucked into canyons, and soft golden dunes.

This is not a one-day park. Because the sights are spread out and many of the accommodations are outside the park boundaries, you need at least three days to cover the highlights without feeling rushed. Honestly, you could easily spend a week here and still discover new corners while exploring Death Valley National Park.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps—service is spotty at best.
  
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
  
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need (trust me).
  
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
  
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
  
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.

FYI: Death Valley is quite remote. There is nearly no cell phone service in the park and any help may be hours away. Please be prepared with plenty of water, food and a spare tire. It is recommended to bring 2 spare tires if you are traveling on any of the backroads. 

How to Get to Death Valley

Death Valley straddles the California–Nevada border. While most of the park is in California, the easiest access is from Nevada.

The most logical airport is Las Vegas (LAS), about a two-hour drive to the park depending on which entrance you use.

• While there are a number of unpaved roads entering the park, these are the paved roads used to access Death Valley. 

Where to Stay in Death Valley

Accommodations inside the park are limited and can be pricey during peak season. Staying within the park cuts down on driving time, but nearby towns can also make great bases.

 Otherwise here is a breakdown of access time from a couple nearby towns. 

• Beatty, Nevada: about 45 minutes from Furnace Creek. 
• Parumph, Nevada: about 1.5 hours from Furnace Creek.
• Lone Pine, California: about 1 hour 45 minutes from Furnace Creek. 

In Park Lodging

Stovepipe Wells Village

• About $180/night
• This hotel has both hotel accommodations and full RV hookups for those traveling that route. They have two onsite restaurants, a little shop and even a pool to cool off after a hot day of hiking. Located in the Stovepipe Wells area, the in park accommodations are a great jumping off point for exploring the park. Fuel is available here. 

The Inn at Death Valley

• About $450-$550/night. 
• This gorgeous hotel is located near Furnace Creek and provides luxury accommodations while staying in Death Valley. They have a number of dining options, pool, spa and golf course. A perfect place to relax after a day of hiking in the desert. 

The Ranch at Death Valley

• About $200/night. 
• This hotel is located just down the road from its sister hotel The Inn at Death Valley. Full of amenities the Ranch has a pool, tennis courts, golf course and spa. Furthermore, this is a great spot for families as they have small casitas and cottages to accommodate groups. Finally, there are onsite campgrounds you can book as well. 

Panamint Springs Resort

• $15-$300/night depending on accommodations. 
• Panamint Springs Resort is a great stop with a multitude of options for accommodations and price ranges. They have camping sites, tents, glamping tents, dry RV spots, RV spots with hookups, hotel rooms, cabins and even bunk rooms. Located conveniently near Panamint Springs, this is a great option if you are approaching the park from the west. Fuel is available here. 

Camping in Death Valley

Death Valley has both developed and primitive campgrounds. Conditions vary widely, so always check closures on the NPS site before heading out.

• Furnace Creek Campgrounds: Only site with reservations, though limited in summer.
  
• Texas Springs: Each site has a picnic table and fire grate.
  
• Sunset Campground: Large, open campground; no fires allowed.
  
• Wildrose Campground: At 4,100 feet in the Panamint Mountains, prone to strong winds.
  
• Mesquite Spring Campground: At 1,800 feet, near Scotty’s Castle Road, with fire grates and picnic tables.

Primitive Campgrounds (all require high-clearance vehicles; some 4×4 only):

• Thorndike: forested, 7,400 feet.
• Mahogany Flat: forest views at 8,300 feet.
• Eureka Dunes: at the base of giant sand dunes. 
• Homestake: rugged, remote.
• Saline Valley: famous for its hot spring, but tough to reach.

Staying Outside the Park

Beatty, Nevada (45 minutes to Furnace Creek) is my personal favorite. Wild donkeys roam the streets, there’s a small but fun local bar, and it makes a charming home base. I stayed in a cozy cabin from Airbnb here, which made mornings and evenings extra memorable.

Other options:

• Pahrump, NV – About 1.5 hours away.
  
• Lone Pine, CA – Roughly 1 hour 45 minutes away, great if you’re also planning a Mount Whitney or Alabama Hills detour.

Park Access

Don’t forget that entry to the park for 4 people/1 car is $30. If you plan on visiting more than 1 day or multiple national parks during the year you must opt for the year long pass. It has paid dividends for me time and time again. The American the Beautiful pass is $80, lasts for an entire year and has unlimited park access. Grab yours here. 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Things to do

Artists Palette 

It is nearly impossible to choose one place I loved the most in Death Valley National Park, but the Artists Palette was definitely near the top. You can explore this area via the 9 mile Artists Drive Scenic Loop. You’ll see how volcanic deposits have created a multitude of colors across the landscape. Make sure to hop out of the car and explore around the hills, when you’re done you’ll enjoy the remaining drive through the gorgeous loop. 

Ubehebe Crater

Located in the northern part of the park, you can see this crater. Known as a Maar volcano, the crater was created when lava came in contact with ground water, which created steam and enough pressure to blow through the earth above. This is the largest of the craters in this crater field and is a sight to behold.

Badwater Basin

This is the lowest point in continental North America at 282 feet below sea level. It is a stark difference in view compared to the rest of the beige and gold colored park. Home to the former Lake Manly, over the years its slowly accumulated sediment and salt and the lake eventually ceased to exist in that form. Today we can now see and traipse over the concentrated salt deposits. 

Wildrose Charcoal Kilns

Ten beehive-shaped kilns built in the 1870s to produce charcoal for silver mining. They’re remarkably well-preserved and make for an eerie, photogenic stop. 

Devils Golfcourse

This surreal landscape was named for its craggy, sharp salt spires that take up the entire space. Because “only the Devil can play golf here”. Another monument to the diversity of Death Valley National Park, this unique type of salt is incredible to see up close and personal. While there isn’t much to do here and it is certainly difficult to walk along, it is absolutely worth stopping by.

Viewpoints

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Golden dunes right next to the road. Hike out far enough to leave the crowds behind, then watch the sunset paint the sand in soft oranges and pinks. Cartwheels optional but encouraged.

Dantes View

Rising up to 5,575 feet this is an opportune spot to watch the sunrise or the sunset and is a popular stop for photographers. Sitting above Badwater Basin and along the ridge of the Black Mountains, it’s truly a spectacular sight.

 Zabriskie Point

Named for Christian Zabriskie, a prominent person of the Pacific Coast Borax Company (lol), this is a popular spot to enjoy the incredible views. From this viewpoint you will see the striped hills and badlands below. 

Father Crowley Vista Point

Named after a priest who often stopped to admire the views between his home of Lone Pine and Death Valley, he was known as the Desert Padre. 

Stargazing

Death Valley National Park has been dubbed part of the International Dark Sky Park. On a moonless night, the Milky Way blazes across the sky. Bring a red flashlight to preserve your night vision.

Hikes

There are a number of great hikes throughout the park and some for all levels. There are also hikes that have no exact marked path and are trail-less so to speak. Feel free to adventure to those, but with caution and a compass. 

Natural Bridge 

• 1 mile and 86 feet of gain. 
• This is a quick hike with negligible gain. On this short hike you’ll see a rock formed natural bridge and just beyond is a dry waterfall. 

Darwin Falls

• 7 miles and 450 feet of gain. 
• This is by far and away the best hike in Death Valley National Park. A rocky trail turns foresty (yes a word) and a bit wild as you continue along this relatively flat path. You’ll see sneak peaks of water and algae along the way before you end at a small oasis and waterfall. A stark difference from the desert around you, this water feature and rocky waterfall feels like you have been transported to Neverland. 

Golden Canyon

• This trail gives you a choice of your own adventure. You can complete one portion of the hike or combine them to make it longer.
  • Badlands loop: 2.7 miles and 535 feet. This starts at Zabriskie Point and loops through the badlands. 
  • *Golden Canyon to Red Cathedral: 3 miles and 577 feet of gain. this was my favorite hike of the three. The Red Cathedral is a truly jaw dropping end point to this hike between golden walls and up rocky corridors. 
  • Gower Gulch Loop: 4.3 miles and 850 feet of gain. As you make your way through narrow canyons, you’ll have the opportunity to do a little rock scrambling before eventually finding the gulch. 

Mosaic Canyon

• 4 miles and 1,200 feet of gain
• To complete this hike you’ll pass through 3 narrow canyons, climb over a giant boulder jam to find your trail and end at a rock amphitheater. Keep an eye out for the mosaic rocks that give the canyon its name. 

Wildrose Peak

• 8.4 miles, 2200 feet of gain. 
• This hike starts at the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns (two for one!) and ends on a peak overlooking Death Valley. The hiking trail winds through a forest before the switchbacks take you up the peak. 

Hikes with Unmarked Routes

• Desolation Canyon
• Willow Canyon
• Panamint Dunes
• Little Bridge Canyon
• Sidewinder Canyon
• Fall Canyon
• Corkscrew Peak
• Telescope Peak 

Backpacking

Backpacking here is for the bold. Trails are often unmarked, water is scarce, and the solitude is profound. Here is a list of all the backpacking options you can explore. FYI: most of these require high clearance vehicles and some 4×4 capable. 

• Bighorn Gorge
• Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop: permit required
• Fall Canyon
• Red Empitheatre
• Hungry Bill’s Ranch
• Indian Pass
• Owlshead Mountains
• Panamint Dunes
• Surprise Canyon
• Telescope Peak
• Titanothere Canyon

Final Tip

After a long day of heat, dust, and rock scrambling, reward yourself with a stop at The Inn at Death Valley. Sit in the cool, shaded lobby and order a prickly pear margarita. It might be the best cocktail you’ll ever have, equal parts refreshing and life-changing after a desert hike. 

The Bottom Line

Death Valley is a park of extremes, contradictions, and unforgettable experiences. From the lowest basin to snow-capped peaks, from fiery sunsets to star-filled nights, it’s a place that challenges you and rewards you in equal measure.

Spend at least three days here if you can. You’ll leave dusty, tired, and completely awed by the beauty of this desert.

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Big Sur was one of those California destinations I dreamed about for years. Then came Big Little Lies, and suddenly I was even more obsessed. The winding cliffside roads and epic ocean views. Add in a playlist that makes you want to roll your windows down and you have the perfect road trip down Highway 1.

Below you’ll find my guide to driving Big Sur in a day: the best stops, iconic viewpoints, hidden gems, foodie breaks, and the little pitfalls to avoid so you don’t miss anything.

Tips for Driving Big Sur

• Stop on the way south. Most pullouts are only on the west/ocean side of Highway 1. If you skip a stop thinking you’ll hit it on the way back, you’ll probably miss it. (Learn from my Bixby Bridge fail.)
  

• Download offline maps. Service is almost nonexistent. You won’t get totally lost, there’s one road, after all, but you don’t want to miss Pfeiffer Beach because your GPS bailed.
  

• Expect delays. Highway 1 is two lanes. Accidents, construction, or rock slides can mean long waits. Instead of stressing, make it fun: pull into a beach, grab a drink at Nepenthe, and call it part of the adventure.
  

• Check road closures. Fires and landslides are not uncommon in this area. Always double-check the Caltrans Highway 1 road conditions before heading out.

Starting in Carmel-by-the-sea, you’re going to have a delicious breakfast before beginning your journey. Stop at La Bicyclette and make sure to indulge in one of their amazing pastries. When you are well caffeinated, turn on this playlist and enjoy the road.

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve ~10 minutes

Your first official stop is Point Lobos State Reserve, known as the “crown jewel” of California’s state parks. The $10 entry fee is well worth it. Inside you’ll find rugged coves, turquoise water, sea lion colonies, tide pools, and hiking trails that range from easy strolls to moderate treks.

If you have the time, I recommend the Cypress Grove Trail, which winds through one of the only two naturally growing stands of Monterey cypress trees left on Earth. If you have time and the legs for multiple hikes, this one is another great option. 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Garrapata Vista Point ~5 minutes

Next up is Garrapata State Park Vista Point, a quick but jaw-dropping pullout. From here, cliffs plunge straight into the Pacific, waves crash against the rocks, and wildflowers often blanket the hillsides. It’s one of those “how is this even real?” views. If you head down to Garrapata Beach in the spring, you will be rewarded with a field of Calla Lilies. Coincidentally called Calla Lily Valley, you’ll find a sea of white lilies that line your walk down to the beach, so lovely!

Obviously, please do not pick or cut the flowers. We want everyone to enjoy their beauty while they bloom!

Bixby Creek Bridge (~10 minutes)

Bixby Bridge is Big Sur’s celebrity landmark. Opened in 1932, this elegant concrete arch spans 714 feet and sits 260 feet above a canyon. You’ve seen it in car commercials, postcards, and yes, Big Little Lies.

Remember: the pullout is only accessible driving southbound. Do not skip it thinking you’ll catch it later. The view here is the definition of iconic Big Sur.

Hurricane Point ~2 minutes

At Hurricane Point, the coastal highway unfurls below you, with sweeping views of the rugged coastline and another distant glimpse of Bixby Bridge. In spring, wildflowers line the roadside, adding pops of color against the blue ocean backdrop.

Great Sur Vista Point ~1 minute

Another quick-but-worthy pullout, Great Sur Vista Point offers wide-open views of white sand beaches and jagged cliffs tumbling into the ocean. It’s a classic Big Sur photo stop, no hike required.

Little Sur River Beach ~3 minutes

This underrated gem was one of my personal favorites. Little Sur River Beach combines Big Sur essentials: a sandy beach and a scenic viewpoint. The winding river cuts an S-shape through the sand before meeting the waves, and during wildflower season, the hillsides burst with color.

Point Sur State Historic Park ~10 minutes

The massive volcanic rock crowned with a historic lighthouse is impossible to miss. Point Sur Lighthouse has guarded this stretch of coast since 1889, and ranger-led tours let you climb up for history and panoramic views. Even if you don’t go inside, just admiring the lighthouse from afar feels very “California coast.”

Pfeiffer Beach & Pfeiffer Falls ~15 minutes

Pfeiffer Beach is one of Big Sur’s must-sees. With its dunes on the left and lagoon created by the Sycamore Canyon Creek runoff on the right, it is an essential Big Sur stop. It’s famous for its keyhole rock arch where the sunset light beams through the opening in winter months. Photographers from around the world flock here for that shot. On the north side of the beach, look for patches of purple sand, created by manganese garnet in the surrounding cliffs.

Across the highway, hike to Pfeiffer Falls. The 1.6-mile trail climbs about 450 feet through shaded redwoods to a 60-foot waterfall. It’s short, refreshing, and a perfect break from the car.

Lunch or Drinks: Nepenthe vs. Big Sur Taphouse

At this point, you’ve earned a food and drink stop.

• Big Sur Taphouse: Casual, laid-back, with local craft beers and pub food. Perfect if you want a quick, budget-friendly break.
  
• Nepenthe: Iconic restaurant perched high above the ocean with jaw-dropping views. The patio is perfect for sipping a glass of wine. Reservations recommended in peak season.

Both are great,  it just depends if you want cozy pub vibes or sweeping coastal glamour.

Partington Cove ~10 minutes

One of Big Sur’s hidden gems. From the road, hike down a dirt trail, cross a wooden bridge, and walk through a tunnel to emerge at Partington Cove. The rocky inlet sparkles turquoise on sunny days, framed by steep green cliffs. It feels almost tropical, like you’ve stumbled into a secret Hawaiian cove.

McWay Falls ~10 minutes

The finale: McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. This 80-foot waterfall tumbles from a granite cliff directly onto the beach below. While photos make it look huge and dramatic, in person it’s smaller than expected, but still absolutely worth the stop.

Currently, access is limited to the overlook platform near the highway while trail repairs continue. Even so, the view of the cove, waterfall, and crashing waves is unforgettable.

Heading North

From McWay Falls, you can turn around and head north to Carmel or continue farther south if your road trip allows. Either way, by the end of the day you’ll have seen beaches, redwoods, waterfalls, lighthouses, and some of the most dramatic coastline in the world. Big Sur truly lives up to the hype.

The Bottom Line

Big Sur is not just a road trip; it’s a pilgrimage for anyone who loves dramatic landscapes and coastal beauty. From iconic stops like Bixby Bridge and McWay Falls to hidden gems like Partington Cove, every viewpoint feels like a postcard come to life.

Take your time, stop often, and let Big Sur wow you at every curve. Trust me, you’ll already be planning your return trip before you even leave Highway 1.

The post Big Sur Travel Guide: How to Plan the Perfect Highway 1 Trip appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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If you haven’t gathered, I am a big fan of girls trips. Don’t get me wrong, I love traveling with my husband, but there’s something inherently magical about quality time with your best girlfriends. I come back from every girls trip with my cup full and my abs sore from laughing.

In 2022, I had a birthday idea: a cozy, slightly spooky cabin in the woods with my favorite people. A weekend of reading, snuggling, and eating delicious food. Luckily, my friends were on board. That December we had our first Ladies Reading Weekend, and since then it’s become a yearly tradition (with bonus spring trips or even single-day versions at someone’s house).

Because it was such a hit, I’m sharing exactly how to throw your own ultimate Ladies Reading Weekend with your besties.

Location: Find the Perfect Cabin

The destination doesn’t matter as much as the house itself. You want cozy, comfortable, and slightly atmospheric. For us, the ideal was a cute A-frame in the woods with foggy mornings and a big, squishy couch. The very large and very comfortable couch is the key to the weekend. Although, more on adapting later. After a few trips, we’ve perfected the cabin checklist:

• Within 2 hours driving from your home base (ours is Portland)
  

• One very large, very squishy couch
  

• Two separate sitting areas (one for silence, one for chatting). Not completely necessary, but a good goal to aim for!
  

• A big kitchen for cooking together
  

• Enough beds for proper rest
  

• Outdoor space for fresh air breaks. Or tucked in a neighborhood where you can go for hot girl walks.

Here are the AirBnbs we have conducted our reading weekends in the past and a couple of others around the United States to give you inspo. 

My Stays

• Long Lake Home in Washington
  • $650/night. Sleeps 12.
  • This is our go to. Although it does have two separate living spaces so we can divide the chatters from the “I actually need complete silence to focus on my book”, we love the room with the doors overlooking the lake. So eventually, we just take cushions from the other room, get cozy making floor beds and squeeze onto the two couches. Then, when its chilly out we hunker down under heated blankets, crack the door for some cool air and put on a spooky playlist.
  • Bonus points for the dock, grassy space and paddle boat for when the weather is nice.

• The Storm Watcher in Tillamook, OR
  • $875/night. Sleeps 10.
  • The pictures are slightly better than the actual product when it comes to this house, but you really can’t go wrong with the view. Posted close to Tillamook, a midday ice cream/squeaky cheese/pepperoni stick break at the Tillamook Cheese Factory is a great opportunity to stretch your legs. Additionally, the hill up and down to the beach is perfect for working up a little sweat between chapters.

• Peaceful Forest Cabin near North Cascades National Park
  • $385/night. Sleeps 6.
  • If you have been perusing my blog you may have seen this house on my post about North Cascades National Park. And while this wasn’t exactly a “ladies reading weekend location” it was a location in which some ladies, did in fact read a lot. The couches were cozy and the outdoor space tucked away in the woods felt perfect for lounging with a good book.

• Family Home in Union, Washington
  • $450/night. Sleeps 10.
  • This was the destination of our very first reading weekend. It accomplished all the things we were looking for. Foggy mornings over the lake, double living rooms and super comfortable couches for reading. This was where we really indulged in eating like kings but had far too many leftovers at the end of the weekend.

Other Cabin Inspo

• Cozy Cabin in the Poconos
  • $300/night. 8 guests.
  • This steal of cabin resides next to Lake Harmony in the Poconos. The wood walls and cozy fireplace give peak cabin vibes. When you are done reading for the day head to the outdoors and roast marshmallows over the fire pit. The cabin is really well supplied to cook some gourmet meals and there is even a book exchange shelf. Perfect if you need a new read or want to share yours with future guests!

• Luxury Log Cabin on Lake Michigan
  • $540/night. Sleeps 10.
  • This gorgeous house would be perfect to plan a spring or summer reading weekend. The huge deck is perfect for spreading out and enjoying the sunshine while crushing some chapters. Take wellness breaks in the sauna or even dips in the lake. What this cabin lacks in indoor seating it absolutely makes up for in location and outdoor space.

The Activities 

The main goal is obvious: smash as many pages as possible. It could be fun to make it a competition, track and record number of pages read by individuals or the group or even start a new book together for the weekend. While reading is the focus, its important to let others explore what relaxes them. So to keep the weekend balanced, we mix in a few other low-key activities:

• Reading (duh)
  
• Visiting a local bookstore
  
• Coffee shop runs
  
• Hot girl walks
  
• Chatting on the dock or porch
  
• Crafting, knitting, crocheting (bonus points with an audiobook)
  
• Board games
  
• Soft music on Youtube with coordinated backgrounds like this or this.
  
• Watching a major sports event if it’s happening (we once read through a soccer tournament on TV)
  

This way, if anyone in your group can’t spend hours reading in one go, there will be a little something for everyone.

The Food: Cozy Weekend Fuel

Full disclosure: one of my biggest anxieties in life is knowing where my next meal is coming from. It is so important to me, I have an entire section of this blog dedicated to eating and drinking while traveling! If you need restaurant reviews, want to know where to skip or read about unique food experiences checkout the eat & drink section of my site.

As I was saying, I like knowing what’s next on the menu. For our weekends, we divide meals so no one is cooking the whole time. Each person signs up for a breakfast or dinner, and we skip lunch in favor of snacking (otherwise we end up with food waste).

Snacks and charcuterie boards are essential. Breakfasts and dinners are the time to bust out the recipes you’ve been saving for “someday.” Wine, Aperol spritz, ciders and bubbly waters are on the menu to sip on and usually we even start the day with a mimosa (what could be better?).

Packing List: Cozy Essentials

If you want the weekend to live up to its dreamy potential, don’t forget the basics (yes, these are all required!):

• A jumpsuit. Nothing says cozy to me than a baggy jumpsuit/onesie. This one from Free People is my go-to and I consider it my reading weekend uniform.

• Slippers/indoor shoes: I don’t know if it’s because I’m in my 30s or have dealt with plantar fasciitis but I love an indoor shoe and honestly a slipper is important when cultivating cozy vibes. I’m a personal fan of these Birkenstocks but also respect the air flow on these open toed slippers.

• A warm and snuggly blanket. It’s best not to depend on the AirBnb to supply a great blanket and take matters into your own hands. A giant Lola Blanket, Bubble Blanket or even a heated blanket are all excellent choices.  

• Kindle or hard copy book. I’m a kindle girly myself, but have been known to buy a hard copy especially for reading weekend. It feels like a fun opportunity to splurge to “do the thing in the place”.

• If you and your group are feeling especially fun, we have made gift bags in prior years. They have included book themed stickers, candies, bookmarks with our initials on them etc. Not necessary for a good time, but it is fun finding the sticker that is close to everyone’s personality. Mine was “The book was better”, duh.

The Bottom Line

A Ladies Reading Weekend is the perfect girls trip: simple to plan, affordable, and equal parts fun and restorative. Adapt the formula however you like: do it in summer at a pool, order takeout instead of cooking, or wear jeans if that’s your comfort zone (wild choice, but you do you).

I guarantee you’ll return refreshed, cozy, and with a stack of finished books. And if you need help planning your own, I’m always happy to chat!

The post How to Plan the Ultimate Ladies Reading Weekend appeared first on Update Later Travel.

There comes a time in every traveler’s life when the universe gently reminds you that you are not, in fact, invincible. Welcome to the humbling of your friendly, neighborhood travel expert. As someone who usually plans every detail and prides herself on being prepared, it was impressive how many ways I managed to mess up one single morning visit to Haleakalā National Park. If you’re searching for Haleakalā sunrise tips, let my missteps guide you.

Before I embarrass myself thoroughly, let’s set the scene. Four besties. One week in Maui. Endless sunshine, poke bowls, laughs and adventure. Our friends Chris and Nicole are the kind of travel buddies that make even grocery runs fun. Normally Chris and I tag-team the planning, but for this particular mission, I took full control. General of the Sunrise Operation.

The mission: wake up at 2 a.m., drive 90 minutes up a volcano, reach 10,000 feet and watch the world wake up.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Mission: Accomplished

When we were in Maui there wer still remnants of COVID restrictions and Hawaii was a place that was easy to get to but didn’t have the difficulties and risk of international travel. So while grabbing these sunrise reservations may be easier now, back then they were absolutely cutthroat.

We had four separate phones get online as soon as the reservations opened for the next day and for 6 days, we failed. Until our last chance, and boom, we got lucky. We managed to snag sunrise reservation tickets for our final day on Maui. I really think it was my expertly timed “refresh” button clicking that did the trick, but I digress.

We were excited, we were optimistic, we were slightly delusional.

Could anything possibly go wrong?

Read on to find out.

Why Haleakalā National Park Belongs on Your Maui Itinerary

Before I tell you how I failed spectacularly, let me tell you why Haleakalā National Park is worth your time no matter what. Located on Maui, the park is split into two regions: the Summit District and the Kīpahulu District. Both are wildly different and offer experiences you can’t find anywhere else in Hawaii.

Kīpahulu District

The Kīpahulu side is lush and dramatic. The famous Pipiwai Trail takes you past Makahiku Falls, through a towering Bamboo Forest and ends at the 400 foot Waimoku Falls. There are several giant banyan trees that make you feel like you’re stepping into a fantasy book.

Summit District

This is where you’ll witness that bucket list Haleakalā sunrise. The landscape feels otherworldly with shifting colors, volcanic rock and panoramic crater views. Most visitors come for sunrise, but there are gorgeous trails and viewpoints worth exploring after the main event.

If you’re here for Haleakalā sunrise tips, trust me, you want to read these three.

1. Go To Bed Early (And Hydrate)

Let me begin with the most obvious and most ignored piece of advice. Go to bed early. Hydrate. Do basic human things.

We did not.

After nearly a week in Hawaii with friends, we realized one tragic truth: our overambitious Costco liquor haul was not going to drink itself. So instead of going to bed early for our painful 2 a.m. wake-up, we made mudslides until midnight.

Predictably, our alarms felt like personal attacks. Hydration was lacking. Regrets were immediate.

So here is the first and most important of my Haleakalā sunrise tips: hydrate like it’s your job and go to sleep early. Your future self will thank you when you aren’t dragging your soul out of bed before sunrise.

2. Don’t Rush the Sunrise Experience

Most people wake up early, race to the summit, watch the sunrise and immediately head back down once their fingers go numb. And while that’s understandable (and definitely what my group did), you can make the entire morning so much better.

If I could redo the day, I would:

• bring a breakfast picnic
• pack hot coffee in a thermos
• stay after sunrise and hike a little
• explore Red Hill
• take advantage of being above the clouds

The drive itself is beautiful. From Kihei or Lahaina, it takes about 90 minutes on winding mountain roads, and you get to watch the stars fade as you climb into the darkness. Instead of heading back down right after sunrise, stay awhile. Make it a whole morning. Then nap on the beach later like the responsible adult you are.

3. Dress For 10,000 Feet

This mistake? Painful. Literally.

Just because you’ve been in a swimsuit all week does not mean you can roll up to a 10,000 foot mountain summit in a sweatshirt. I knew it would be cold. I did. As my puffy coat was hovering over my suitcase in the bring or leave pile. But I convinced myself it “couldn’t be that cold.” And frankly, my suitcase could not accommodate a puffy jacket.

Reader, it was that cold.

Meanwhile, do you know what we did bring? Inflatable stand-up paddleboards. Full size SUPs. Because Alaska Airlines lets you check a free bag and we thought this was the time for aquatics.

I absolutely had space for a jacket. Or even a warm layer. Instead, I wrapped myself in a hotel blanket and hid behind a rock like a cold, confused burrito. The wind chill was real. My toes were questioning all my life decisions.

If you take only one thing from these Haleakalā sunrise tips, let it be this: bring layers. Real layers. Jacket, gloves, beanie. Do not underestimate the summit. And honestly, bring the hotel blankets too, because those were lifesavers.

The Sunrise Itself

Even with the missteps, the sunrise was magic. The sky shifted through purples, oranges and golds. Clouds stretched out like rolling waves. The whole crater glowed. It felt ancient, spiritual and completely worth the struggle. You really are watching the island breathe.

The feeling of sitting above the island while the rest of Maui was waking up is something I won’t forget.

No matter how cold or sleep-deprived you are, that moment stays with you.

The Bottom Line

Haleakalā National Park is one of the most incredible places to visit in Hawaii, and with a little preparation, you can make the experience smooth, warm and unforgettable. Hydrate, rest, bring layers and treat the sunrise like a full adventure, not a quick stop. If you are looking for more Maui content, check out my post on my absolute favorite beaches in Maui.

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