• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

While London is a big draw and the main reason people travel to England, there is so much more to the country than its capital. Don’t get me wrong, I love London, it’s my favorite city in the world and I’d go back anytime. But limiting yourself to the city is such a disservice when the country has so much to offer.

So when you’re dreaming of getting off the Tube and into the countryside, look no further than the Cotswolds. If you are planning a trip to England and want to channel Elizabeth Bennet walking through a muddy field (IYKYK), then keep reading for your complete Cotswolds travel guide.

What is the Cotswolds

The Cotswolds is a region of England lying northwest of London, about two hours away. It includes over 800 acres of pristine villages and landscape and makes up England’s largest AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). You really can’t beat that title and accolade.

This region is defined by the small towns and villages that are full of history, may have some strange names (looking at you, Stow-on-the-Wold), and are identifiable by the distinct honey-colored limestone that makes up most of their buildings. While visiting the area you’ll see sheep-dotted hills, lazy winding rivers, and picturesque viewpoints. The beautiful scenery makes it an incredible place to explore on foot, through the valleys and the hills, getting up close and personal with the surroundings.

In fact, among the many, many walks and hikes available in the Cotswolds, the town of Winchcombe hosts a walking festival every year, and many people opt to try the 100-mile Cotswold Way, which takes you from Bath to the town of Chipping Campden.

Grab my thoughtfully curated destination guide to Bath, England below

Bath, England Destination Guide

Uncover the charm of Jane Austen’s city with the Bath England Destination Guide. Includes transportation tips, food & drink recommendations, top sights, spa experiences, and a curated itinerary.

$9.99

Shop now

Most importantly, the Cotswolds is where you suspend your disbelief a little bit and just let the place work its magic. Not every destination needs to be busy, packed every minute and exciting in the obvious sense. Sometimes travel means slowing down and embracing the small things around you, like a historic church, a local chocolate shop, or a short jaunt up a hill overlooking the English countryside.

If you are feeling suspicious about whether this is up your alley, check out my post about who should and shouldn’t visit the Cotswolds.

Who Should Go to the Cotswolds

While I personally love the Cotswolds and everything a day in the life of visiting the Cotswolds looks like, I can also recognize that exploring this area of England is not for everyone. So before you download the hype from the internet, let me lay out who exactly would enjoy a trip to the Cotswolds.

You’re okay with seeing all the seasons in one day: if you are looking for a sunny vacation, this isn’t it. England has particularly finicky weather and the Cotswolds is not exempt from that. Even in the summer, the region can have rain and chilly days, so plan accordingly.

You don’t mind a slower vacation: even if you jam-pack your days and try to see everything the Cotswolds has to offer on your trip, you won’t be bustling around like you would in a larger city. Which is actually such a plus. Slow down and take your time to enjoy the small details in the Cotswolds.

You don’t mind driving: while visiting the Cotswolds is doable without a car, if you are trying to get the best bang for your buck, you’ll want to rent a car. I’ve driven on the left a handful of times and it’s really not as confusing as it seems. Check out my guide to all things rental cars here.

You don’t mind that the most exciting thing you may see in a day is a slow-moving creek and a historic church: the Cotswolds is full of history and beauty, but this isn’t the Colosseum or even Big Ben. It’s churches from the 1600s, historic trading posts, and pubs that inspired Tolkien. If that sounds interesting to you, then you’re in the right place.

How Long to Spend in the Cotswolds

If you’re not like me and plotting how you can move to a picturesque village to live out The Holiday while finding your own Jude Law (I say as a happily married gal), then I guess we can talk about time to spend in the Cotswolds.

Your timing depends on a few factors:

• What areas you want to visit
• Where you base yourself, or if you plan to change locations every couple of nights
• What outdoor pursuits you want to accomplish (if any)
• Whether you are depending on train travel or have a car

I’ll tell you what I did to give you an idea. We stayed for one week, with some of those days being Christmas Eve and Christmas. Additionally, we arrived later in the afternoon on the first day. So that really breaks it down to just five full days of exploration, with one of those being Christmas Eve.

In that time, I visited around 13 towns and went on one hike. I had a car and was able to drive myself, which greatly helped my ability to explore.

Itinerary Ideas

If you want to skip ahead and read an in-depth post on Cotswolds itineraries, check out my write-up here that gives detailed ideas on how to spend your time if you have 3, 5 or 7 days to visit the Cotswolds.

One Day

If you don’t have time but still want to dip your toes into visiting the Cotswolds, day trips are absolutely doable. There are a few that leave from London and allow you to see the Cotswolds without the hassle of staying overnight or renting a car.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

2–3 Days

Focus on basing yourself in one region, which could look like this:

• Stay in the south: visit towns like Bath, Lacock, Castle Combe, Tetbury, Stroud, and Cirencester.
• Stay in the east: explore villages like Bibury, Burford, Asthall, Kingham, Charbury, and Chipping Norton.
• Stay in the northwest: stop in places like Winchcombe, Blockley, Moreton-on-the-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and Chipping Campden.

This lets you focus on a smaller area instead of trying to tackle the whole region. If you don’t have a car, this would be a good option. Regional buses are much more manageable this way, and it’s easy to grab a train from London to one of the bigger towns to begin your adventure.

5–7 Days

If you have this much time, I absolutely would recommend renting a car. You’ll be able to adventure throughout the region and dictate your own schedule. We chose Winchcombe as a base, which was great for exploring a lot of the small towns in the northwest of the Cotswolds and only put us about an hour away from the more southern towns like Castle Combe.

Area Overview

Here is a short recap of the regions and why you would want to visit them. Just know that these regions and divisions have all been divided and named by me, so don’t start Googling “Classic Cotswolds.” I mean, you can, but it may not be what you’re looking for.

Classic Cotswolds

This includes the towns you probably imagine when you think of the Cotswolds: Stow-on-the-Wold, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and Bourton-on-the-Water, famous for the River Windrush running through it. These villages are small and all possible to explore on foot.

Don’t miss the mini village in Bourton-on-the-Water, which is a verbatim replica of the actual town. So cool. Otherwise, these towns are separated by minimal driving. If you take a one-day tour from London or Bath, these are some likely stops.

Southern Cotswolds

The southern Cotswolds comprises the towns of Castle Combe, Lacock, and Tetbury. Castle Combe has been named one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds. Don’t miss exploring the gorgeous Castle Combe Manor, view of the town from the river/bridge and end your visit with a stop at Old Stable Tea Rooms.

Lacock is famous for its Abbey, which is not to be missed, as multiple scenes from Harry Potter were filmed in the Abbey and village. Finally, Tetbury is an antique lover’s paradise.

Eastern-ish Cotswolds

Visiting the west allows you to explore Burford, Cirencester, Bibury, and Asthall. Cirencester is one of the larger towns in the Cotswolds and has a beautiful church, the Church of St. John the Baptist, that you can’t help but gawk over.

Burford is said to be the gateway to the Cotswolds and was home to the wool trade in the olden days. While you may not spend a ton of time there after walking up Burford Hill, you will want to stay longer in Asthall, which is quite tranquil and home to an impressive Roman church from the 12th century.

Finally, don’t miss a visit to Arlington Row in Bibury, which is home to some of the most famous cottages in the Cotswolds.

Stroud & Golden Valley

In the west side of the Cotswolds you’ll find Stroud and the Golden Valley. Stroud has some of the best walking in the Cotswolds over its hilly terrain. This is where you really get off the beaten path, away from the crowds in the classic Cotswolds towns.

The nearby town of Painswick is peaceful and refined. Bonus points in this area are its proximity to the towns of Gloucester, Cirencester, and Cheltenham.

North Oxfordshire

In the North Oxfordshire region of the Cotswolds you’ll find Chipping Norton, Charlbury, and Kingham, to name a few. There are a number of great pubs in Charlbury, and Kingham has great access to London via train.

But a lot of the fun things to see and do in the North Oxfordshire area are actually outside of the main villages. Diddly Squat Farm Shop from the well-known show Clarkson’s Farm is in North Oxfordshire, as is Daylesford Farm. You could spend a day at Daylesford shopping their farm store and home goods, or explore the farm and stay for a meal at one of their restaurants.

Northern Gateway

At the northern edge of the Cotswolds you’ll find Chipping Campden, Blockley, and Moreton-in-Marsh. Chipping Campden is the well-known starting location of the Cotswold Way 100-mile walk through the countryside. But strolling through the town is just as fun as getting out into the grassy hills.

Full of sweet little shops, a historic church, and a trading post, you can easily spend a day or afternoon exploring the town. Moreton-in-Marsh hosts a robust market every Tuesday, but don’t miss having a pint at the Bell Inn, which was Tolkien’s inspiration for the Prancing Pony in The Lord of the Rings.

Broadway Hills

Finally, the Broadway Hills include the towns of Broadway, Stanton, and Snowshill. With sweeping views overlooking the entire AONB region, you won’t be disappointed.

Make sure to visit Broadway Tower for its history, incredible views, and the on-site deer park, which makes it great for kids. While you can walk through Snowshill in about five minutes, it’s worth swinging by to see its historic manor. Escape to the fairytale village of Stanton with its timbered buildings and typical limestone manors.

Getting Around

The best way to get around the Cotswolds, without a doubt, is by having a car. The freedom of a car will allow you to access not only the towns and villages of this AONB region, but also restaurants, sights, and unique experiences outside of them. Not every site to see sits in the middle of town. Getting out of the villages is necessary for a true Cotswold experience.

We ate at some amazing pubs while in the Cotswolds, but most of them sat outside of the villages, in those in-between spots down winding roads between towns.

I truly believe that anyone with a bit of confidence can rent a car and drive on the left. I’ve driven on the coast of England, through the Cotswolds, and down crazy “two-way” roads in Ireland where you are almost kissing a brick wall as you let people pass. It isn’t for the faint of heart, but it is absolutely worth the effort. Read more on driving abroad here.

Public Transport

Fear not, if driving isn’t doable for you, the public transport access to the Cotswolds gets better and more creative as time goes on.

Trains

You can easily take the train from London to one of these larger hubs to connect to your time in the Cotswolds:

• Bath
• Charlbury
• Cheltenham
• Chippenham
• Evesham*
• Gloucester*
• Hanborough*
• Honeybourne*
• Kemble
• Moreton-in-Marsh
• Oxford*
• Stratford-upon-Avon*
• Stroud
• Swindon*
• Ashchurch*
• Cam & Dursley*

The starred train stops are on the outer edges of the Cotswolds but have public transport access to nearby towns. For example, if you take the train to Honeybourne, you will be just outside of Chipping Campden, which is a great place to start your journey.

Bus

Once you have accessed the Cotswolds via train, it’s time to load onto a bus. Some things to be wary of when taking a bus through the Cotswolds:

• There are nine different companies that serve the Cotswolds region.
• Bus service wraps up around 6 p.m. most days, not including Sundays and public holidays, which have their own schedules or sometimes nonexistent service.
• Busy bus routes may have several buses throughout the day, but less common routes may only have two buses a day.
• You are completely beholden to the bus timetables.

Bus travel is absolutely doable and relaxing when you get the hang of it. But it involves a lot of pre-planning of routes and sticking to a schedule. If you miss the bus back to your home base and it was the last of the day, a taxi may end up setting you back a bit of money.

The main bus companies are Stagecoach and Pulham’s Coaches, so start there when it comes to planning your route.

Taxi, The Robin & The Cotswolds Pass

Because the bus routes end earlier than most would like throughout the week, you can reserve a taxi if you are wanting to have dinner out of town or in a neighboring town. Reserving in advance will ease your mind about making sure you get back to your home base after a nice pub meal.

The Robin is a new and amazing little service in the Cotswolds. It is a combination of a taxi and bus that provides on-demand mini-bus rides to lesser-known spots throughout the region. The Robin is how you get to more rural villages that traditional buses don’t serve.

There is no regular timetable for this service. Instead, it creates a route based on what people are looking to do. You can book up to two weeks in advance via their website or phone, or up to the hour before you want to depart.

You can only book The Robin by region, so if you want to go from Chipping Campden down to Tetbury, that isn’t possible on a single Robin mini-bus. Instead, you would have to find a common destination where the services connect and then change to another bus.

The Robin is also great for walkers. If you are heading out on a long trek and don’t want to make the return walk, you could opt for a ride on The Robin to get back to your home base, or even back to where you parked if you rented a car.

Safety

While the Cotswolds are safer than a lot of big cities, being a tourist still paints a bit of a target on your back. Keep an eye out for anyone getting too close to you or acting suspiciously. Make sure your personal belongings are secured and, if you are driving, that anything important in the car is tucked away in the trunk.

Here are the UK emergency numbers just in case:

• EU emergency number: 112
• UK emergency number: 999
• Non-emergency line: 101
• Urgent medical problem and need advice: 111
• Or visit 111.nhs.uk

What’s Actually Worth Seeing

I really have nothing negative to say about the Cotswolds. It absolutely caters to one part of my travel style, and that’s the slow part. Strolling through small villages, learning the history of seemingly inconspicuous sites that end up being significant and centuries old, popping into unique shops full of handmade products where the owner is the one ringing you up and giving genuine thanks for supporting their small business and having too many coffees, teas, pastries, and sweets throughout the day because each bakery deserves a stop-in. Walking through muddy fields, waving to sheep, and getting amazing views under that overcast lighting. That, to me, is travel magic.

Don’t get me wrong, I love beach lounging, exploring busy cities, and seeing famous sights, but this is the other side of travel that I adore.

With that said, if you are coming to the Cotswolds to be stunned, wowed, and mesmerized by the sights, I’d recommend going somewhere else. I visited 13 towns during my five days in the Cotswolds and while I enjoyed every minute, and each place has something different to offer, I can see how it may get redundant for other people.

If I had to dumb it down, each town has generallllyyyyyy the same things: a historic church, a few other historic buildings like trading posts, manors, or homes of famous people, some cafés, restaurants, and shops. I say this kind of hating myself for saying it that way. But I also want to be realistic.

So instead of saying you absolutely need to go see one hyper-specific thing, I’m going to create an essential Cotswolds visiting guide. Here are the things you absolutely have to do, and you get to choose in which towns you do them based on what interests you most.

Essential Cotswolds Experiences

• A historic church: like St. John’s the Baptist in Cirencester, St. James Church in Chipping Campden, or St. Mary’s Church in Chipping Norton.
• A countryside walk or hike: like the Bourton-on-the-Water to Stow-on-the-Wold circular, the Lower Slaughter and Upper Slaughter loop, or the Castle Combe and Nettleton circular. While not necessary, getting a little muddy is part of the fun.
• A historic manor, building, or sight: Blenheim Palace, Sudeley Castle in Winchcombe, Lacock Abbey in Lacock, or the Manor House in Castle Combe.
• A pub lunch, dinner, or pint: The Horse & Groom outside Bourton-on-the-Hill, the Kingham Plough in Kingham, The Potting Shed in Malmesbury, or The Farmer’s Dog in Asthall.
• Coffee, tea, and pastries at a bakery: Bakery on the Water in Bourton-on-the-Water, Mor in Chipping Norton, or Otis & Belle in Cheltenham.
• Window shopping or actual shopping: all the towns have their own little boutique-filled streets, but my favorite shopping was in Burford and Broadway.

If you hit one thing from each category, I’d say you’ve had a true Cotswolds experience.

Dining

You can’t visit the Cotswolds, or even England for that matter without a stop at the pub. This is an English requisite and they actually won’t stamp your passport without proof you drank a pint (NA included!).

The Cotswolds has some of the best pubs in England, in my personal opinion, and you can find one that caters to whatever you’re feeling that day. Fine dining? Check. Cozy seats and a fire in the grate? Check. Lively atmosphere? Check. Locals approved? Absolutely check.

While each town has a pub, some of the best ones are tucked on the narrow winding roads between the villages. Here are some of the best, some personally tested, pubs in the Cotswolds to add to your list.

• The Fox Inn: Moreton-in-Marsh
• The Double Red Duke: Clanfield
• The Bull: Charlbury
• The Swan: Swineford
• The Fox: Oddington
• The Wild Rabbit: Kingham
• The Chequers: Churchill
• The Bell Inn: Langford
• Eight Bells: Chipping Campden
• The Lion Inn: Winchcombe
• Horse & Groom: Bourton-on-the-Hill

If the pub is not your thing, well, don’t go to the Cotswolds. KIDDING.

In all seriousness, there are plenty of restaurants around the area to get you by when you eventually get sick of mashed potatoes, if that is even possible. Larger cities like Cheltenham and Cirencester have some great Indian food I wish I had more time to try. So don’t be discouraged, but if you’re not huge on pubs, try staying in one of these larger cities for more variety and options.

And if you are really committed make sure to book a Sunday Roast at one of the pubs. Chicken, beef, roasted veg, multiple types of potatoes and of course, Yorkshire pudding. Not to be confused with pudding (meaning dessert, as the Brits say), these are fluffy, airy, gravy holding dinner rolls meets popovers. I’m drooling just thinking about them.

When to Visit

Every time I write a “what to know before you go” post, I get stuck on when to go because I always write the same thing: spring and fall, spring and fall. But alas, I differ today.

I actually think the best time to visit the Cotswolds is… anytime.

If you know English weather, you know it can be quite fickle, and I think there are positives and negatives to visiting any time of year. I wouldn’t have initially opted for a December visit, but it was so magical and perfect that now I can’t imagine going in the summer. Here is a quick breakdown:

Fall: enjoy the beautiful foliage, making the towns somehow even more picturesque than they already are. Crowds will be lower and you may have a mix of sun and rain, but it won’t be too cold yet.

Winter: brace yourself for biting wind and bring a scarf and hat. Yes, it’s cold, but there can still be a decent amount of sun. I had only sprinkles on one or two days I was there in December. Crowds are mixed because locals and Brits are home for the holidays, so to speak, and tourists are also present for the Christmas magic.

Spring: this is probably the time I would least recommend coming. The rain will be the heaviest, and while the flowers blooming in later spring are delightful, the weather may be too unpredictable. But if you spend time getting muddy in the fields, you may see them dotted with lambs.

Summer: this is the obvious crowd-pleaser. Yes, crowds will be the heaviest, but having lots of sunshine makes walking through the countryside and along the Cotswold Way super dreamy. Fair warning though, very few places will have air conditioning, and while 75 may not feel hot in Miami, it does feel stressfully warm in England.

The TLDR is just go to the Cotswolds in whatever time of year you can. You won’t regret it.

The Bottom Line

Can you tell I am absolutely in love with this place? While I am an England apologist and have few negative things to say, I do think I’ve outlined why the Cotswolds deserve their hype. There is a reason Cameron Diaz decided to stay forever, and yes, it was Jude Law, but it was also very much the beautiful region of the Cotswolds.

Ta-ta for now!

The post Cotswolds Travel Guide: Everything to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

If you’re like me, fully committed to all things English and always happy to return to London, you’ve probably considered exploring the countryside at some point. If the Cotswolds haven’t made your list yet, they should. Let this be your introduction, and a little push, to start planning a trip to one of England’s most charming regions.

The Cotswolds stretches over 800 square miles and includes a myriad of towns and villages to visit. In between those towns are historic pubs, countryside trails to explore, and beautiful sites to see. So how do you see it all? How long should you plan for your visit? Well, I’m here to share the perfect 3, 5, and 7 day Cotswolds itinerary.

And if you’re wondering whether the Cotswolds are worth a visit at all, check out my post about why they may or may not be for you here.

What is the Cotswolds

What are the Cotswolds, you may ask? The Cotswolds is a rural region of rolling hills and historic villages in southwest England, known for its honey-colored stone cottages, countryside walks, and traditional market towns. You may have heard of some of the more unique villages, like Stow-on-the-Wold or Bourton-on-the-Water.

Before you start planning your trip to the Cotswolds and deciding how long to spend in this gorgeous area, I recommend reading my Cotswolds: What to Know Before You Go guide. There I break down the main regions, towns, and villages to help give you an idea of what to do and see while visiting.

How to Plan Your Cotswold Itinerary

There are a few factors to consider when planning your trip to the Cotswolds.

Transportation

The Cotswolds is best and most easily explored by car. Because some of the towns are more rural, it is simply easier to have a car to access them. That is not to say you can’t accomplish a trip to the English countryside without one. The Cotswolds’ public transportation gets better every year, and many of the towns are served by train from London. So if you don’t want to rent a car, you can absolutely manage with public transport and by being detail-oriented with your schedule.

Town vs Outdoor Time

One of the best things to do in the Cotswolds is go walking. Yes, walking. Strolling through sheep-dotted fields, climbing hills with incredible views over the region, and following historic trails that lead you to picturesque towns. Walking is so entrenched in the culture of the Cotswolds that there is a walking festival every spring that takes place in the town of Winchcombe.

If you are visiting the Cotswolds for the wonderful walking and hiking, you’ll likely spend a bit less time exploring the villages. And vice versa, if hiking isn’t really your thing, you’ll have plenty of time to poke around the towns.

Main Sights vs Local Gems

I think some of the best sights are the more low-key ones you may not have heard of. The town of Lacock, for example. It’s not on many radars, it sits quite far south, and it’s not super close to a lot of other spots. But it’s home to Lacock Abbey, which is iconic in its own right and grows infinitely cooler when you find out they filmed Harry Potter there.

Venture into town and you’ll see locals with honor-system farm stands outside their homes, selling everything from pickled eggs to friendship bracelets with a little tin nearby to collect cash. Plus, a house in Lacock was used as Harry’s parents’ home in Godric’s Hollow. So yes, did I love Lacock because of its Harry Potter references? Absolutely. Was it worth exploring even without that knowledge? One hundred percent.

If you are more interested in sticking to the better-known towns like Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, or larger towns like Cirencester and Cheltenham, you don’t need a ton of time or even necessarily a car. But if you are hoping to dive into the lesser-known spots, the time and transportation needs do start to add up.

Homebase

Where you choose to make your home base can greatly affect how much time you need to spend in the Cotswolds. If you’re in love with the idea of staying at The Manor House in Castle Combe, one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds, then you’ll likely be spending a lot of time in the car driving north to explore other parts of the region.

So it really comes down to how you want to travel: do you want to settle into one town, get to know it, and embrace the local rhythm? Or use your home base as a jumping-off point to explore more of the region?

3 Day Cotswolds Itinerary

This is the minimum amount of time I would spend in the Cotswolds and is perfect for those using public transportation. In a 3 day Cotswolds itinerary, you’re going to focus on seeing the main sights, having time for one or two countryside walks, and enjoying a couple of great pubs.

• Home base: Stow-on-the-Wold
• Best for: first-time visitors
• Driving time: max 1 hour per day

Day 1

Either drive or take the train to Moreton-in-Marsh before transferring to the 801 bus for about 25 minutes to get to your home base of Stow-on-the-Wold.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon exploring your home base. If you are in need of lunch, look no further than Cotswold Baguettes, which are delicious and won’t slow you down.

There is a lot to see and do in Stow-on-the-Wold. Head first to St. Edward’s Church and have a look around the property and a peek inside the historic church. Don’t miss a photo op at the famous yew-tree door, which is said to have inspired Tolkien’s Doors of Durin in Moria. Pop around to see the historic market area and the Golden Triangle.

Evening

Wander into some of the shops like Cotswold Cheese Company or Cotswold Chocolate. If you are into art, there are a few galleries to explore as well. For a pre-dinner drink, head into Off the Square and grab a beer from the case or on tap. Your dinner stop should be The Porch House, the oldest pub in Britain, which is just rude to skip if you’re already there.

Day 2

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Stow Town Coffee before adventuring to your next town. Once you’re properly caffeinated, head to Lower Slaughter, about a five-minute drive away.

The Slaughters are very small villages, but they are absurdly quaint. Make sure to walk down Copsehill Road, which is often called one of the most romantic streets in Britain. Visit the church and old cemetery, and make sure to stop at the picturesque old mill.

Walk one mile to Upper Slaughter, about 20 minutes. There isn’t a ton to see here, but Lords of the Manor is a sight to behold. I also recommend walking down the hill toward the river to see some gorgeous houses, if that is your thing. Me? I am always picturing myself living in wildly impractical but beautiful places like this.

Afternoon

After your one-mile return walk back to Lower Slaughter, have lunch at The Slaughters Country Inn or continue on for more options in Bourton-on-the-Water.

If you decide to postpone your meal just a little longer, try The Mousetrap Inn for a pub lunch or grab some pasties at the Cornish Bakery for something lighter.

When you’re done, it’s time to explore Bourton-on-the-Water, about a four-minute drive away. Enjoy wandering through the village and make sure to stop at Bakery on the Water, stroll along the River Windrush, and see the 1/9th-size replica of the village at the Model Village. It is delightfully weird and charming.

Evening

When you’re ready to turn back, head toward Stow-on-the-Wold, about 10 minutes away. If you want to have dinner outside of Stow, head to The Fox in Oddington, which is only about a five-minute drive out of town. Otherwise, The Queen’s Head or D’Ambrosi are great options for dinner.

If you are feeling energized and want to spend more time walking in the countryside, this entire day is doable on foot, albeit a bit long. Start in Stow-on-the-Wold and walk to Upper Slaughter, about 3-ish miles. Then walk the mile to Lower Slaughter. After that, continue to Bourton-on-the-Water, about 1.5 miles. From there, you can opt for the V12 bus, about 15 minutes, or the 801 bus, about 20 minutes, back to Stow-on-the-Wold. Or continue the additional three miles and return on foot if you are feeling particularly outdoorsy.

Day 3

Start your day with a proper English breakfast at The Hive in Stow-on-the-Wold. After that, head out to Chipping Norton, about 17 minutes away. On your way, stop at the historic Chastleton House, which sits between Moreton-in-Marsh and Chipping Norton.

Explore Chipping Norton. If you want a more tranquil day, spend a few hours at the lido or visit nearby Soho Farmhouse. But if you’re feeling more adventurous, stroll through town, stopping by the historic theater and the Chipping Norton Museum of Local History. Once you’ve had your fill, move on to Daylesford Farm.

Afternoon

Shop around and have lunch at one of the restaurants at Daylesford Farm, about 15 minutes away. There is a lot to discover here, so take your time. If you want to jam-pack your schedule, swing by the nearby town of Kingham. While you’re there, walk through town and stop by St. Andrew’s Church. On your way out, also stop by All Saints Church, just two miles outside of Kingham. This church was modeled after Christ Church and Magdalen College in Oxford and is very cool to see.

Evening

Spend your early evening strolling down the main drag of Moreton-in-Marsh, about 15 minutes away. Keep an eye out for Redesdale Hall, built in 1886 and once an early venue for Elton John. If you have time and daylight, you could also stop at Bourton House Garden or Batsford Arboretum.

Plan for dinner at The Bell Inn, which was Tolkien’s inspiration for The Prancing Pony. Then head back to your accommodations in Stow-on-the-Wold, about 10 minutes away.

Ta-da. There you have it: a short, sweet, but jam-packed three days in the Cotswolds. To recap, you saw some of the most famous villages in the Cotswolds, like Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Moreton-in-Marsh. You saw multiple centuries-old churches, classic honey-colored stone cottages, and had a few essential pub meals. This is a great itinerary if you are using exclusively public transport.

5 Day Cotswolds Itinerary

Welcome to your 5 day Cotswolds itinerary. I’m so glad you have more time to spend here. We are going to build off the 3 day itinerary and keep exploring this AONB region. This itinerary is best done with a car.

Home base: Stow-on-the-Wold or Winchcombe
Best for: first-time visitors who have a little more time and want to see a lot of the Cotswolds
Driving time: up to 2–3 hours per day

You’re going to start your itinerary by completing Days 1–3. In just those first three days, you can confidently check off two of my eight designated regions of the Cotswolds. Want to know exactly what those regions are? Check out my post on what to know before you go.

This itinerary gives a home base of Stow-on-the-Wold or Winchcombe. Alternatively, you could spend the first three days in Stow and then switch over for Days 4 and 5, staying in Winchcombe.

Day 4

Morning

If you decide to stay in Winchcombe, start your day with a visit to The Old Bakery for breakfast provisions. Make sure to caffeinate, because today we are driving south.

Drive down to Castle Combe, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Parking is up the hill from the village. Stroll down and enjoy exploring the old village. See the market cross anchoring the center of town. Head to the left from the market cross to check out The Manor House. The ivy-covered facade is regal, but the most epic photos come from the nearby staircase.

Exit down the long lane and gate from The Manor House, which will put you right near the famous bridge and view of the town. That river, bridge, and honey-colored building combo is exactly why Castle Combe gets crowned one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds. If you’re feeling peckish, The Old Stables is a great place to stop for a slice of cake.

Don’t hesitate to explore The Manor House. The day we visited they were hosting a wedding and had signage saying the grounds were closed, but we, along with others, were still able to stroll around in the morning without any issue.

Afternoon

Head next to nearby Lacock, about 18 minutes away. Grab tickets to the Abbey and explore the beautiful grounds and ancient building. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, make sure you check out the cloisters, warming room, sacristy, and chapter house, all of which appeared in the films.

Make sure to stroll through town before leaving as well. For a quick lunch, grab a sandwich at Lacock Deli, or if you want to sit down and take a load off, The George Inn is a great option.

Evening

End your day by driving to Tetbury, about 30 minutes away. Stroll through the shops, including the many antique stores. Make sure to see the Chipping Steps and St. Mary’s Church while spending time in Tetbury. If you have time and daylight, the Tetbury Police Museum or Tetbury Goods Shed Arts Centre would also be great stops.

Have dinner at The Royal Oak or opt for Italian at Casa. If you’d rather get the driving over with, head back to Winchcombe first, about an hour away, and have dinner at The Lion Inn.

Day 5

Morning

After a busy Day 4, today we are going to enjoy Winchcombe and stay local and mostly out of the car. Start with a walk down to The Tipsy Egg for breakfast. Once you’re done, head to Sudeley Castle. You can drive there to make your visit quicker, or walk down the long lane. Explore the castle and gardens. If you are there around Christmas, go in the evening for the impressive garden light show and mulled wine.

Afternoon

Enjoy exploring the town of Winchcombe. Stop by St. Peter’s Church and picturesque Vineyard Street. Then it’s time to head out into the countryside. Hike out to Kenelm’s Well via this route to see the site where, as the story goes, a spring appeared to save monks. Or choose this hike that takes you to Belas Knap, an ancient burial site. Either option will take you most of the afternoon.

Evening

After washing the mud from your shoes, it’s time to relax. Head to 5 North Street if you want to indulge in French food in Winchcombe, or The Plaisterers Arms for a pub dinner. If you don’t mind driving, head to the amazing Horse & Groom, which is only about 15 minutes away in Bourton-on-the-Hill.

The 5 day itinerary really opens up your options in the Cotswolds. You now get to see some major and beautiful towns like Castle Combe and Tetbury, explore the smaller hidden gem of Lacock, and spend a day actually walking through the hills. And that, to me, is a true Cotswolds experience everyone should have.

7 Day Cotswold Itinerary

Lucky you. To spend an entire week in the Cotswolds is a dream. You’ll be able to accomplish a lot during this week, or if seeing and doing is not your main goal, a full week is also plenty of time to enjoy small-town life, walk in lush green hills, and lean fully into everything English.

Home base: Winchcombe or Cirencester
Best for: those who want to dive deep into the Cotswolds
Driving time: up to 2-ish hours per day

Similarly to the 5 day itinerary, if you want to change locations after Days 4 and 5, try staying your final two days in Cirencester for slightly bigger-town vibes.

Day 6

Morning

Start this day at Roots + Seeds Café for breakfast in Cirencester. Spend the morning exploring some of the town. Stop at the ornate Church of St. John the Baptist, as it is a core sight of the Cotswolds and one of those churches that makes you stop mid-thought and just gawk a little.

Try the 2.5-mile circular walk around Cirencester, which will take you to the ancient amphitheater and through beautiful Cirencester Park.

Afternoon

Grab lunch in Cirencester at Corn Hall Deli or drive to Bibury, about 18 minutes away, for lunch at Twig. Explore the cute and petite town of Bibury before walking to the famous Arlington Row. These are the quintessential Cotswolds cottages on basically every postcard, so yes, you very much should stop by.

Continue on to the town of Burford, about 17 minutes away. Burford has an incredible church near the main parking area in town. It is very grand and worth a stop. Spend the rest of your time slowly walking up the High Street hill. Pop into whatever shops look appealing or stop for a beverage along the way. Enjoy the view from the top of the hill.

If you have time, stop in the local Tolsey Museum in Burford, which is free to enter, donation appreciated, and just small enough to squeeze into the end of the afternoon.

Evening

If you would like to continue spending your evening in Burford, stay for dinner at The Angel at Burford. Or head just 15 minutes farther out, yes making your drive back to Cirencester a bit longer, to The Bull in Charlbury or The King’s Head in Bledington, both of which are excellent pubs.

Day 7

Morning

For our final day in the Cotswolds, we are heading north again, but this time for a little retail therapy, a famous tower, and a couple of tiny blips of towns.

First, grab breakfast at Jack’s before leaving Cirencester. Then head out to the town of Broadway, about 45 minutes away. Stop at Guilt Trip Coffee if you need a little pick-me-up before exploring. Walk down the picturesque High Street and pop into the shops. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, meeting the locals and seeing all the little goods and tchotchkes is half the fun.

Instead of shopping, or in addition to shopping because I support both, feel free to stop by the Broadway Museum and Art Gallery or the Gordon Russell Design Museum.

Afternoon

Before leaving Broadway, grab lunch at Russell’s Fish and Chips or Broadway Deli. Head next just down the road to Broadway Tower, about seven minutes away. This tall stone tower sits in the middle of an open green space and dates from 1768. Originally it was a retreat for artists and a place for a printing press. Later, the area was used as the site of a nuclear bunker. If possible, opt to go see the bunker while you’re there.

And do not miss the herd of deer located between the tower and the parking lot. This is the second-highest point in the Cotswolds, so make sure to enjoy the view overlooking 16 counties. Casual.

After the tower, head to the town of Stanton, about 14 minutes away. Stroll through the small town, which is one of the most architecturally significant villages in the Cotswolds. Stanway House and Fountain and St. Michael and All Angels Church are great stops to make nearby as well.

Evening

The final stop of your trip is the tiny town of Snowshill, about 12 minutes away. The main stop here is Snowshill Manor. If you have time and daylight, check out the incredible collection of 22,000 objects gathered by Charles Paget Wade. But the gardens, divided by theme, are also worth your time.

The village green is home to classic Cotswolds cottages covered in greenery and a small church. And if you recognize the area, yes, it was used as Bridget Jones’ parents’ house in the movies. Make sure to enjoy the views from the hills in and around Snowshill overlooking the Cotswolds.

Then head back to Cirencester, about 40 minutes away, and have your final dinner at the famous The Bear Inn.

1 Day Only

Not everyone has enough PTO to go frolic in the English countryside. If that sounds like you, fear not you can still enjoy the Cotswolds in just one day! Here are some tour ideas to get you started:

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Bottom Line

Regardless of how much time you have, the Cotswolds is absolutely doable. I hope this post opened your eyes to all the possibilities while visiting this picturesque part of England. There is a reason it is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

So whether you go for three days or a week, take a day trip or explore the countryside in full, just make sure you go.

The post The Perfect 3, 5, and 7 Day Cotswolds Itinerary appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

When I was growing up and started dreaming about traveling the world, Rome was the first place I thought of. Yes, maybe it was because Lizzie McGuire threw her coin into the Trevi Fountain and all her pop star dreams came true. But I like to think I have a little more substance than that.

Note to the readers: I don’t.

Going to Rome lived on my bucket list for years in a way my little travel bug simply would not let go of. Now, many years later, it’s one of the cities in Europe I’ve been to the most, and for me it never gets old. So whether you are a first-timer or a fifth-timer, I think there is something to learn in this Rome travel guide.

Who Should Go to Rome

While I think the Eternal City is just that, eternal, I personally believe Rome is a great destination for any traveler.

Rome is a perfect destination if this is your first time in Europe. Flights may not be as fast, easy, or inexpensive compared to places like London, for example. However, you make up for the lack of travel ease with incredible history, drool-worthy food and a city that truly transports you back in time. Rome is a place that makes you feel like you are genuinely in another country and experiencing a new culture.

You don’t mind big cities. Rome is actually incredibly manageable on foot, with the occasional cab or bus when needed. But there is a reason why Rome is popular and guess what? I’m not the first person to realize it. So while Rome doesn’t feel like a huge city in the way NYC does, the cat is very much out of the bag, and you should expect lines, crowds, and waiting at many of the main attractions.

Food is important to you. In my opinion, Rome has some of the best food in Italy and that is due in part to the regionality of Italian dishes. In Florence you don’t skip the Florentine steak, in Sicily you have pasta alla Norma, and in Rome you get the best of the best. Their local pasta dishes are cacio e pepe, gricia, carbonara, and amatriciana. A white sauce, crunchy pork bits, a peppery cheese situation, and a spicy red sauce, we have covered all the main pasta moods. Add in the street food, like supplì, and you absolutely will not go hungry here.

You want to see and learn about history. Ancient Rome was the building block of seemingly everything in the world: art, architecture, religion, governance, drama, all of it. Having even a small insight into how Roman culture influenced the world is eye-opening. Plus, sites like the Colosseum, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain are jaw-dropping and memorable in their own right.

How Long to Spend in Rome

With a lot of destinations I can easily say, “Stay 2–3 days, but if you really want to know the city, stay a week.” And to be honest, Rome is incredible, but I also don’t think you need a full week to enjoy and embrace it. Some places are best when you leave them still head over heels, rather than staying just a bit too long and falling out of love with the experience.

Here is what I recommend, along with an idea of what is possible in each time frame.

2 Days

This is both the bare minimum and, honestly, maybe the perfect amount of time. If you are motivated and love to walk, you can do a lot in Rome in two days.

In just one morning, you can see many of the sights in the center: the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and the famous Campo de’ Fiori market, all before 10 a.m. Explore the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, and the Borghese Gardens.

Spend the next morning at the Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Castel Sant’Angelo before lunching at Da Enzo in Trastevere. Add in an afternoon tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill before strolling to Giardino degli Aranci for the optical illusion and insane city views. Then have dinner in the hipster and nearby Monti neighborhood before scoring gelato on your way home.

3–4 Days

Perfect for those who don’t want to be rushed and want more time to nibble around the city. Since you can cover many of the major sights in two days, this gives you the chance to spread things out and save one “big sight” per day, think Colosseum, Vatican Museums, or the historic center.

Now you have more time to visit a few of the 900-plus churches in Rome, like St. John Lateran, Santa Maria in Trastevere, or San Clemente. This is the sweet spot for people who want to see the city without feeling like they are being chased through it by their own itinerary.

5 Days

This is the absolute maximum amount of time I would spend in Rome in one go. You have plenty of time to see everything Rome has to offer, and with that freedom, you can opt into more specific tours and experiences.

I have done the Key Master tour in the Vatican Museums and it is single-handedly the best tourist experience I have ever had. You could also opt for a food tour, like the one I took in Trastevere. And if you want a break from history and the hustle of Rome, you can take a day trip out of town.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Neighborhood Overview

If you want a full breakdown of where I think the best areas to stay in Rome are, check out my Rome neighborhood post, which also has great hotel recommendations. Otherwise, here is a quick overview of what you may find in each part of the city.

Historic Center

This one is easy. You are right in the center of Rome, which makes it perfect for first-time visitors. No, I wouldn’t recommend most of the restaurants in this area, but you really can’t beat stepping out your hotel door and being minutes away from gorgeous piazzas, unknown churches and crumbling stone monuments around every corner. You’ll find Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and more.

Prati

This neighborhood sits west of the river and feels more modern than much of the rest of the city. It’s convenient if you are prioritizing the Vatican and is well connected by public transit to the rest of Rome. Here you will find posh restaurants, bars and boutiques.

Monti

Best for quick and easy access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill, Monti sits just above the historic center. Here you will have the opportunity to rub shoulders with locals while enjoying a spritz on cobblestoned streets. It’s stylish without being unbearable about it.

Trastevere

The most popular district in Rome, and very much alive. This is a great place to base yourself if your focus is delicious food and you don’t mind walking a bit. You’re just across the bridge from the historic center and near Vatican City. The energy is high, it attracts a younger crowd, and you won’t be disappointed by the cute corners and warm people of Trastevere.

Aventine Hill

Located up a hill past the Colosseum, you’ll find this peaceful and quiet side of Rome. Home to many wealthy locals, and the views absolutely explain the real estate prices. This unspoiled part of the city is great for exploring Giardino degli Aranci, the Aventine Keyhole, and some truly insane views. It is also well connected by public transit.

Getting Around

Like I have said before, Rome is extremely walkable. Yes, some of those walks can be a bit long if you are heading to sights on opposite edges of the city, but a lot of it is totally doable on foot, especially if you group your visits by area.

However, if you are not up for big city-crossing treks just to see the Vatican Museums and the Spanish Steps in the same day, you can always opt for the metro. While it doesn’t go everywhere, major misses include the historic center and Trastevere, it is very useful for longer distances.

Using the Roman Metro

There are underground and overground trains, and both accept the same tickets, despite being run by different operators.

A single ticket costs around €1.50, but there are also passes available for 24 hours up to a full week.

You can always opt for the Roma Pass if you want discounts on some tourist sights and unlimited use of public transportation around the city for a few days.

You can buy tickets at the stations, just make sure to validate your single-use tickets before entering the train.

If you want to use your phone instead, you can opt for the Tap & Go option available in Rome. Tap to enter through the barrier on the circular disc and tap out the same way to exit. The system then charges you accordingly.

You’ll notice above that there are a few places not serviced by public transport, and for good reason. Even now, Italy is working on adding an additional metro line that could open up the transport system immensely, but it is a slow process for a lot of reasons. One of them being that they keep finding gorgeous preserved statues, frescoes, and historic items as they dig to create the underground. Incredible. Inconvenient maybe, but incredible.

Ride Share

Uber is available in Rome, but be aware that they only have black car options. So you will be paying a slight premium if you take an Uber around the city.

You can also try other options like Free Now, which links you up with a taxi and lets you pay everything in the app, or the itTaxi app, which is Italy’s taxi app.

Safety

Where there are tourists, there are pickpockets. Always stay alert when visiting a foreign country or a big city. People are practiced and experienced in the art of being sly.

While I haven’t found as many scam opportunities in Rome as I have in Paris, you should still keep an eye out for those things. Pay special attention in the following scenarios:

• Arriving by Train: there is something about not knowing where you’re going and schlepping your bags around a train station that makes you an excellent option for a pickpocket.

• Big Crowds: Speaking from experience here, watch your bag and your pockets closely when you are stuck in a big crowd. Learn from the mistake I made in Marrakech.

• Metro Stations and Bus Stops: these are prime target spots for thieves. Be especially on guard in these locations, particularly during rush hour.

Emergency Numbers

And as always, I would be remiss if you didn’t know how to get help if you needed it. When in doubt, dial 112.

112 = National emergency number (police, ambulance, firefighters)
118 = Ambulance
115 = Fire department
113 = Police

What’s Actually Worth Seeing

Rome is a city where it is pretty clear what the main sights are. But of course, I would always encourage people to get off the beaten path and explore some of the lesser-known things too. And don’t forget to make time for food. Update Later Travel believes food is just as important, and thus we aim for no bad meals while on vacation.

Main Sights

• Colosseum & Roman Forum
• Vatican Museums
• St. Peter’s Basilica
• Vatican City
• Trevi Fountain
• Piazza Navona
• Campo de’ Fiori
• Pantheon
• Spanish Steps
• Borghese Gallery
• Giardino degli Aranci
• Gianicolo Hill
• Piazza del Popolo
• Altare della Patria
• Aventine Keyhole
• Castel Sant’Angelo

Lesser-Known Spots

• Aqueducts
• Basilica di San Clemente
• Capuchin Crypt
• Domus Aurea
• Palazzo Colonna
• Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
• Via Appia Antica and the Catacombs
• Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
• San Giovanni in Laterano
• Circus Maximus
• Piramide di Caio Cestio
• Baths of Caracalla

Plus, if you are a movie buff, you could follow Robert Langdon from Angels and Demons and traipse through all the churches and sights mentioned there.

This is one of those cases where I think almost everything is worth it. Yes, this is a giant list of sights, and not everyone wants to spend their time in Rome slogging through churches they don’t have context for or waiting in lines all day. But for me, so many of these places give that “wow” or “is this a green screen?” kind of feeling that I wouldn’t want to miss.

Visiting the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museums has been epic every time I’ve been there, which is now three times. It’s a total pinch-me moment when I think about the history that has transpired there and how Michelangelo painted those epic biblical scenes on his back. While security guards are scanning the room with military intensity to see if you’ll snap a picture against the rules and occasionally yelling “shhhh” at everyone, there is still a reason I go every single time I’m in town.

And I feel like that is the true test of Rome. These places really are epic if you are into that sort of thing.

Because there is so much to do and historical context matters, check out a few walking tours around Rome that may help open some doors for you or at least ease the stress of tackling this big list.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Dining

There is one big rule I have when visiting Rome: do not eat in a piazza.

For the most part, when people are standing outside the restaurant trying to wave you in, or there is a giant laminated menu on display showing every possible thing they serve, you are not getting the best food or the best deal. Head down a small quiet street, even in the historic center, and enter a restaurant where it looks like they genuinely could not care less whether you came in or not. Those are the spots that are going to be serving Nonna’s amatriciana, authentic, delicious, and without breaking the bank.

The only time its okay dine in a piazza is for aperitivo. It absolutely will not break the bank to grab an aperol spritz in a square and dine on little nuts and crunchy bits while you people watch.

Don’t miss trying the big four Roman pastas that I mentioned above. But while visiting Rome, make sure to dip your toe into some of the street food too. Supplì, porchetta, focaccia, panino, and of course gelato.

If you want the opportunity to try many of the Roman delicacies in one go, a food tour would be a great idea. I took this evening food tour in Trastevere and was smitten with each bite.

When to Visit

I truly believe shoulder season is the best time of year to travel.

Visiting Rome in the spring allows you to see the city as flowers are blooming, windows are opening and that sense of freshness and newness is everywhere. Yes, you may have a few select days of cooler temperatures or even rain, but those are also the best opportunities to spend your day exploring a museum.

The other time of year I would recommend visiting Rome is early fall. September and October allow you to see the city without the overwhelming crush of summer crowds. So many places in Europe don’t have air conditioning, so visiting during milder temperatures can make tromping around the city much easier.

With all of that said, Rome is a popular destination. There are going to be crowds all year long, no matter when you go. So while spring and fall may be a bit less intense, the city will never exactly be empty.

The Bottom Line

Wow, I love Rome.

I loved writing this and reminiscing on my many trips to the Eternal City. Yes, there is so much history embedded in the museums, the architecture, the churches, and frankly around every corner. But while the sights are great, Roman culture itself is really unmissable. It’s lively, kind, welcoming, and full of the kind of energy that makes you want to come back before you’ve even left.

I think everyone should visit Rome at least once in their lifetime. And if you’re lucky enough to drop a coin in the Trevi Fountain, then Rome will be waiting to welcome you back on your return.

The post Rome Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

One of my favorite little trends on Instagram is “the influencers lied and I cried.” It’s essentially a reality check on destinations that were hyped to hell and then… didn’t quite deliver. Shockingly, I haven’t seen this trend applied to the Cotswolds yet, so I’m stepping in to say the quiet part out loud.

Below, I’m breaking down what some influencers won’t tell you about the Cotswolds, and giving you five honest reasons you should (or absolutely should not) visit. Keep reading to decide if the Cotswolds is your dream destination or one that looks better in movies than in your PTO calendar.

Why Visit the Cotswolds

I had the Cotswolds on my dream destination list for years. Where that dream started, I truly have no idea. But I’d be lying if I didn’t blame the very specific fantasy of spending a snowy Christmas in an old stone cottage à la Cameron Diaz in The Holiday. So when the opportunity arose to live out my own cozy countryside moment, I jumped on it.

The Cotswolds is a large collection of towns, villages, and countryside about two hours west of London in England. What surrounds the villages is just as important as what’s inside them. Each town has its own history, its own church (I’m convinced every single village has one), and at least one pub anchoring the community.

The region is officially designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), which means the rolling hills, farmland, and countryside aren’t just pretty, they’re protected. The honey-colored Cotswold stone used throughout the villages ties everything together visually, making it feel like you’ve wandered into a storybook that forgot to modernize.

The Reasons You Should (or Shouldn’t) Visit

Despite having the Cotswolds on my bucket list for years, I was still surprised by what I found, and what I didn’t. To be very clear, I loved every moment and would return in a heartbeat. My husband? He does not need to go back. He didn’t hate it, it just wasn’t his place.

That’s where this post comes in.

Below are five reasons to help you decide if you’re saying “yes, absolutely, give me the Cotswolds” or if this is a destination that’s been overly romanticized by picturesque movies and eager influencers and you’d rather spend your PTO elsewhere. And listen: it is completely okay if this destination isn’t for you. Update Later Travel is judgment-free. I just want you traveling somewhere you’ll actually enjoy.

You Like Slow Travel

My days in the Cotswolds looked like this (and yes, this is my ideal pace of life):

• Driving through rolling countryside and narrow, tree-lined lanes
  
• Finding the paid parking lot in town
  
• Downloading a different parking app in every village and paying for 1–2 hours
  
• Strolling picturesque streets
  
• Popping into shops: homewares, chocolate, Cotswold wool, local goods
  
• Visiting “the sights,” which usually meant an ancient church, a historic pub, or stone buildings older than my country
  
• Grabbing a coffee, pastry, or lunch at whichever café looked the cutest
  
• Driving to the next town and doing it all again
  

You down?

If that itinerary sounds delightful (this is where I personally thrive), then the Cotswolds is absolutely for you.

If you prefer all-inclusive beach resorts, jam-packed schedules, adrenaline activities, or jaw-dropping historical landmarks that demand awe, the Cotswolds will likely leave you underwhelmed. This is not a thrill-seeker destination. It’s a meander-and-vibe destination.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

You Don’t Mind Driving

I’ve learned that many of my bucket-list destinations share one trait: they’re best explored by car. The Irish countryside, the Cornish coast, ancient ruins in Morocco, all possible with public transportation, but infinitely easier with a car.

The Cotswolds is technically approachable by public transport. From London, you can train to towns like Cheltenham or Moreton-in-Marsh, and buses connect many villages. The region is actively trying to improve accessibility with initiatives like the Cotswolds Pass.

However.

Buses (Pulham’s and Stagecoach) run infrequently, can be packed, and aren’t especially efficient. If you’re relying solely on public transport, visiting more than one town per day can feel unrealistic. Having a car gives you freedom, flexibility, and the ability to actually follow the dreamy itinerary you imagined.

If renting a car and driving on the left doesn’t faze you, the Cotswolds will be a joy. If driving abroad is a hard no, this destination may test your patience. If you’re on the fence, read over my guide about renting a car abroad and driving on the left to hopefully diminish nerves about foreign car rentals.

Window Shopping Sparks Joy

Some towns, like Cheltenham or Stow-on-the-Wold, can easily fill half a day or more with walking paths, dining, and sights. But once you’ve seen the church and wandered the countryside, what’s left to do? You shop.

Luckily, the Cotswolds excels at shopping in a very specific way. We’re not talking Zara or chain stores. Think handmade soaps, tea towels with Cotswolds maps, scarves and sweaters from local sheep, independent bookstores, and yes, Cotswolds cheese shops.

If you love poking your head into small shops, valuing locally made goods, hunting for souvenirs or Christmas gifts, or wandering stores just to see what exists, you’ll love it here. If you like flipping through books you’ve never heard of, discovering local authors, and adding irresponsibly to your TBR, the Cotswolds will treat you well.

If, however, you’re like my husband and truly do not need another tea towel or lotion handmade by Sally from Winchcombe, the charm may wear thin.

History and Context Is Cool (Even If It’s Subtle)

You won’t find the Sistine Chapel or the Parthenon in the Cotswolds, but that doesn’t mean history is absent. It’s just quieter.

Nearly every town church carries significance, whether it’s because it dates back to the 1400s (like St. Peter’s Church in Winchcombe) or because it inspired Tolkien (hello, St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold). These aren’t headline attractions, they’re slow discoveries.

The region also played a major role in England’s wool trade, which shaped its wealth and architecture. You’ll see remnants of this in structures like the Market Hall in Chipping Campden or the Market Cross in Castle Combe, places where traders once gathered.

And honestly? Almost everything is old. Even the Airbnb cottage we stayed in was over 300 years old. You could tell by the cute but wild staircase. If low-key history and context-rich wandering sounds appealing, you’ll love it. If you want grand cathedrals and museum-level artifacts, look elsewhere.

You’re Okay With Rain, Mud, and Wellies

Beyond villages and pubs, the Cotswolds is known for its walking and hiking paths. Every town seems to have an adventure just beyond its edge, rolling fields, stone stiles, sheep-dotted hillsides.

At one point, I genuinely felt like Elizabeth Bennet trudging through a muddy field to meet Mr. Darcy. Sorry for the niche reference, but it’s Darcy season and I refuse to apologize.

Winchcombe hosts a walking festival every spring. The Cotswold Way is a long-distance trail stretching over 100 miles from Chipping Campden to Bath. Popular routes connect towns like Stow-on-the-Wold to Bourton-on-the-Water or Upper and Lower Slaughter. Then there’s the Monarch’s Way, weaving history into countryside miles.

If muddy boots, green fields, historic monuments in the middle of the countryside and working up a light sweat sound appealing, you’ll be in heaven. You could spend an entire week walking the Cotswolds and barely scratch the surface.

If you prefer sunshine, sandals, and staying clean, this may not be your place.

The Bottom Line

The Cotswolds is a beautiful, charming destination, for the right person. I would hate for someone to travel all the way there only to realize that slow village strolling and muddy country lanes were not what they envisioned.

And that is completely okay.

The world is massive, and there is truly something out there for everyone. Keep exploring the blog, your next dream trip might be just a few clicks away.

The post 5 Reasons You Should or Shouldn’t Visit the Cotswolds appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

London is a dream destination for many travelers. Home to the royal family, British Parliament, historic pubs, and genuinely incredible food, it deserves a spot on everyone’s itinerary at least once. In this London travel guide, I’m giving you an overview of what makes the city so special, along with practical details, neighborhood breakdowns, and planning tips so you actually feel prepared before you go. If you’re wondering what to know before visiting London, this guide is meant to be a true starting point.

Who Should Go to London

It is hard not to be biased here. London is my favorite city in the world. I have been about ten times at this point and would go back tomorrow if given the opportunity. But personal bias aside, I want to help you decide if London is right for you.

You should go to London if this is your first trip to Europe. London is an incredible jumping off point for visiting Europe. With a wealth of things to do and the convenience of speaking English, the barrier to entry is extremely low and welcoming for first time travelers.

You like big cities. This capital city has around nine million residents across its 32 boroughs. If those numbers do not intimidate you, then you will likely love London’s energy and scale.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

England has implemented a Visa requirement for foreign visitors. Luckily, attaining the Visa takes (usually) only minutes. Download the ETA app, apply and pay the £20 (yeesh).

The most important thing to keep in mind is to keep the confirmation email. You will be asked for proof of the ETA from airline attendants before you depart and upon arrival in customs. However, going back onto the app (in my experience, maybe they have updated it) does NOT show your visa. Which is why it is essential to maintain the confirmation email.

Reach out to me at jess@updatelater.com if you have questions or need help navigating this.

You want to dive into history. From Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre to Westminster Abbey and a massive collection of museums, London excels when it comes to sightseeing and learning as you explore.

Getting around matters to you. Google Maps paired with Apple Pay or Google Pay gives you the entire city at your fingertips. The Tube is easy to navigate, efficient, and fast, allowing you to move through London with ease.

You care about food and pub culture. While no one ever says “go to London for the food,” I am here to disagree. There are incredible restaurants and innovative chefs around every corner. Add in pub culture and a love for a good pint, and England becomes a dream destination for eating and drinking. After-work pints, Sunday roasts, and ancient pubs with centuries of history create a uniquely British dining experience. Check out my London Pub Crawl to see which pubs you should stop by.

How Long to Spend in London

The age-old question of how long you need in a destination. My answer for most large cities is similar. If you want to see every corner, hit every sight, and live a bit like a local, you need at least a week. That said, not everyone can dedicate seven full days to one city, so here is what different time frames realistically look like.

2 to 3 Days

This is the perfect amount of time to explore the major sights. Think the Tower of London, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Borough Market, Hyde Park, the Natural History Museum, or Tate Modern. Add a stroll past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, and Buckingham Palace. Have a couple of great meals, ride the Tube, bada bing bada boom, you have covered a lot.

4 to 5 Days

With four or five days, you will have time for everything above plus slower exploration. Walk the South Bank past the London Eye, visit the Black Dog pub made famous by a Taylor Swift song, and check out viewpoints like Sky Garden or Garden at 120. Go vintage shopping on Brick Lane in Shoreditch, browse Portobello Road, and admire the iconic white and pastel houses of Notting Hill.

7 Days

A full week allows you to see and do everything above and more. Add another museum like the National Portrait Gallery, explore restaurant scenes in Islington or Hackney, and stroll along Regent’s Canal. Check out the shops around Granary Square and wait in the long but iconic line to take a photo at Platform 9 and ¾ at King’s Cross Station. With this amount of time, day trips become easy. Head south to the coast to see Brighton, explore Canterbury’s history, visit Stonehenge, or check out the university towns of Oxford or Cambridge.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Neighborhoods

With 32 boroughs and roughly 48 neighborhoods, London truly has something for everyone. Whether you want quiet canal walks, nonstop shopping, food-focused areas, or access to major sights, the neighborhood you choose matters. Understanding how London is laid out and what each neighborhood offers will help you focus your time and decide where to stay.

Westminster

Home to some of the most significant sites in London, Westminster is an ideal starting point for first time visitors. This neighborhood is the heart of British political and royal life and is incredibly walkable.

Places of note include Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, 10 Downing Street, the Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Churchill’s War Rooms, the National Gallery, The Mall, and St. James’s Park.

Belgravia

Near Westminster, Belgravia is filled with grand 19th-century mansions and quiet streets. It feels like an untouched piece of London history.

Places of note include Grosvenor Crescent, Belgrave Square, and classic mews streets.

Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia

Bloomsbury sits between King’s Cross and Soho but feels calm and residential. Expect beautiful Victorian, Edwardian, and Georgian homes and a strong literary presence. Blue plaques mark former homes of Charles Darwin, John Maynard Keynes, and Charles Dickens.

Places of note include the Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology, the British Museum, the Charles Dickens Museum, Russell Square, and Brunswick Square Gardens.

King’s Cross and Euston

This is my personal favorite area (which you can read about why here) to stay thanks to its unbeatable transport access. What was once a seedy part of town has transformed into a vibrant canalside hub full of restaurants, arts spaces, and tech headquarters.

Places of note include Platform 9 and ¾, St. Pancras International and King’s Cross Station, Granary Square, the British Library, and Coal Drops Yard.

Marylebone and Mayfair

Both neighborhoods are upscale, but they feel different. Mayfair is elegant and hotel-heavy with luxury shopping and historic prestige, while Marylebone feels more livable and relaxed with excellent transport connections.

Places of note include the Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington Arcade, Grosvenor Square, Savile Row, and the famous Claridge’s Hotel.

Soho, Covent Garden, and Leicester Square

Soho is lively and historically tied to music, nightlife, and LGBTQ+ culture. Covent Garden is tourist-forward with street performers, a central market, and constant energy. Leicester Square is best experienced briefly rather than lingered in.

Places of note include Somerset House, the Courtauld Gallery, and the Royal Opera House.

Notting Hill and Paddington

These neighborhoods live up to their rom-com reputation. With charming winding streets, colorful houses and a quieter pace than central London. Notting Hill is romantic and absolutely worth visiting.

Places of note include Portobello Road Market, Kyoto Garden, Churchill Arms Pub, the Notting Hill Bookshop, Little Venice, Skylark Roof Garden, and the Sherlock Holmes Museum.

Kensington and Chelsea

Polished and museum-rich, these neighborhoods offer more depth than their luxury reputation suggests. Expect beautiful homes, green space, and world-class museums.

Places of note include the Victoria and Albert Museum, Natural History Museum, Science Museum, Serpentine Gallery, Harrods, Hyde Park, Kensington Palace, and the Royal Hospital.

Shoreditch, Hoxton, and Spitalfields

Located in East London, Shoreditch is youthful, creative, and energetic. Vintage shopping, nightlife, and great restaurants keep this area busy from morning to night.

Places of note include Brick Lane, Old Spitalfields Market, Columbia Road Flower Market, Whitechapel Gallery, and a seemingly endless nightlife scene.

Islington

Often overlooked by first time visitors, Islington shines when it comes to food and local charm. It is a great area to slow down and eat well.

Places of note include Regent’s Canal, Camden Passage, Chapel Market, Exmouth Market, and smaller theaters like Almeida, Pleasance, and Sadler’s Wells.

Camden and Primrose Hill

Camden is bold, busy, and rooted in London’s music culture. Primrose Hill balances the chaos with one of the best skyline views in the city and plenty of green space.

Places of note include Camden Market, Primrose Hill, London Zoo, and the colorful houses of Chalcot Square.

South Bank

Much of London sits north of the Thames, but the South Bank is absolutely worth a stop. Walking across Westminster Bridge gives you one of the best views of Big Ben and Parliament, and strolling along the river is genuinely dreamy.

Places of note include the London Eye, Borough Market, Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, and riverside book stalls.

The City

Also known as the Square Mile, this is where historic London meets modern finance. While it is busy during the workweek, it is full of iconic sights.

Places of note include the Tower of London, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Sky Garden, Guildhall Library, Tower Bridge, and Millennium Bridge.

Greenwich

Greenwich feels like stepping into a village outside the city. It is perfect for a slower-paced half day.

Places of note include Greenwich Park, the Royal Observatory on the Prime Meridian, Cutty Sark, markets, bookstores, and antique shops.

Hampstead

Located on London’s northern edge, Hampstead feels charming and residential with picturesque streets and Georgian architecture.

Places of note include Kenwood House, the Freud Museum, Keats House, Hampstead Heath, and Church Row.

Brixton

Brixton is vibrant, diverse, and food-driven. Its markets, nightlife, and music scene make it one of the most energetic areas in London.

Places of note include Market Row, Brixton Village, Brockwell Park, and the Ritzy Cinema.

Getting Around

Because London is such a big and populous city the public transportation is safe, easy to use and fast. The tube is easy to navigate and the classic red double decker buses are extremely efficient in getting you to the places that the tube doesn’t. Luckily, the buses seem to get the right of way often so you likely won’t be stuck sitting in traffic like you may in an Uber. Plus, if you sit up top in the front, you’ll be able to enjoy how much the London transit is actually like the fast paced, alley squeezing, kooky Knight Bus from Harry Potter. 

Using the Tube

Here is a quick overview for navigating the tube:  

1. Type into google maps your destination. Say Kings Cross → Tower of London
2. Pick the route of your choice based on time, distance walking etc. 
3. In this case we are taking the Circle/Metropolitan line towards Aldgate for 5 stops.
4. Enter the tube station and double tap apple or google pay on the card reader with your phone. Alternatively, tap your credit card or an oyster card. 
5. Keep an eye out for signs for the Metropolitan line and follow the signs and arrows to find the train. When you get to a split to decide which direction to go, look for your final destination the station “Aldgate” , to choose your route. 
6. When you arrive at Aldgate follow the signs to exit. At bigger stations your directions may tell you which street exit to take to get to your destination the fastest. Double tap your phone or card again on your way out. The tube charges based on zones traveled. 
7. Ta – da! You did it!

With the bus, walk to your stop noting your letter association (Stop P, stop S etc.). Double tap when you get on the bus and follow the map on your phone so you don’t miss your stop !

Final Note: uber is readily available in London and perfect for those weird/longer distances that public transit doesn’t cover. I will say it is rarely the fastest or cheapest way to get around London. However, be aware as with normal traffic and congestion the buses and tube could be busy during the commuting hours of 9 am and 5 pm. 

Safety

I have rarely felt unsafe in London, but it is still a major city and awareness matters.

On public transport, keep your phone in a zipped pocket or bag and stay mindful in crowded spaces. Crowds create opportunities for pickpocketing, especially on busy Tube lines.

A tote bag worn high under your arm can actually be very secure, even if it does not look it. Avoid displaying large amounts of cash and split cash among your group if you carry it.

A very London-specific note is traffic direction. Cars drive on the left, so double check before crossing streets.

Once a nurse, always a nurse. Emergency information matters:

• EU emergency number: 112
• UK emergency number: 999
• Non-emergency line: 101
• Urgent medical advice: 111 or 111.nhs.uk

What’s Actually Worth Seeing

There are a lot of big hits in London but with any city some are better than others. The big hitters are:

• St. Paul’s Cathedral
• The Tower of London
• Bridges: Westminster (for the views), Tower Bridge, Millennium Bridge
• Parliament
• Big Ben
• Westminster Abbey
• Buckingham Palace and the Mall
• The London Eye
• Trafalgar Square 
• Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre 
• Museums like: Natural History Museum, National Portrait Gallery, British Museum, Tate Modern etc. 
• Markets: Borough, Camden, Portobello, Spitalfields etc. 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

What to See: My Opinion on the Tourist Sights

So many of these sights you can see just walking by and enjoying from the outside. Save money, stroll by, snap some photos and call it a day (Buckingham Palace, London Eye, Trafalgar Square etc.). 

While everyone values different sights and activities, I will explain my personal travel sightseeing ethos. An example, visiting the Globe Theatre isn’t high on my list. The theatre was originally built in 1599 but burned down in the great London fire in 1613. A new theatre was erected in the same spot but closed after some years. The current theatre dates back to 1997. So if you are a die hard Shakespeare fan and want to see a replica of the original theatre and a show, absolutely go. But if you want to see original historical sites there are probably better options. 

Other Options

The museums in London are free so its worth visiting at least one during your stay. You’ll find everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts, contemporary art and WWII history.  

If you’re underwhelmed by the idea of standing outside of Buckingham Palace and watching red guards march around then check out Kensington Palace or Hampton Court Palace (just outside of London) which allow you access inside the palace and grounds. 

I think it’s absolutely worth noshing your afternoon away in one of the Markets. For me it’s Borough or Camden and Portobello for shopping. But if you would rather eat in restaurants or have other dietary needs, these are easily skipped. 

The Tower of London is a fun stop if you like history and gems! It does house some of the crown jewels but be warned there are a number of replica gems on display. But take a guided tour with a traditional Yeoman Warder or explore on your own. Walk to the nearby Tower Bridge after. 

In Summary

Its hard to say definitively what is worth and what isn’t when each individual person has different preferences, goals, hopes and dreams. So figure out what is top of your list and plan your trip around those things! If you want to see how I spent a solo day in London, as a frequent visitor, check out my day in the city.

Dining

I will never understand the idea that English food is bad. I love a Sunday roast, exploring curry shops, and attempting to hit every Dishoom location in the city. London offers everything from fast casual to Michelin-star dining.

If you are overwhelmed by options, consider a food tour. They are a great way to sample multiple spots and learn as you go.

On weekends, prioritize a Sunday roast at a pub. Solid options include The Swan Inn, Blacklock, The Devonshire, The Mall Tavern, The Angel, and Duke of Cambridge.

Avoid eating blindly in tourist-heavy areas like Covent Garden unless you have researched the restaurant. Some of the best meals come from wandering into neighborhood spots farther out.

And truly, if nothing else, go eat at Dishoom. It is my favorite restaurant in the world and worth planning around. If you are traveling with a group or picky eaters, markets are always a safe bet.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Dining Tips

• Save your pounds and ask for tap water instead of still or sparkling
• Book in advance when possible
• Check out Top Jaw for excellent curated London recs. 

When to Visit

This one is tough for me, because I think the best time to visit pretty much anywhere is the spring or fall. Shoulder seasons mean less crowds, potentially cheaper prices and have the added benefit of nature doing the most to ensure you’re looking at beauty all day. With the blooming cherry blossoms in the spring and changing leaves in the fall your backdrop will always be lovely. 

Visiting in the spring or fall means you may have some days with less than ideal weather, but you won’t be dealing with the extremes of winter or summer. Plus, don’t forget many places in Europe in the summer lack air conditioning. So plan accordingly if you think the temps will be extreme! 

The Bottom Line

I hope this London travel guide has helped you understand what to expect when visiting the city. As one of my favorite places in the world, I hope you love it as much as I do. Happy travels and cheers.

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post London Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

There is truly something magical about Tuscany. It is the kind of place where you picture yourself learning to make fresh pasta with a nonna, sipping wine down cypress tree lined roads, and wandering into medieval churches that have seen more centuries than you can count. While almost every corner of this region is gorgeous in its own way, today I want to share five of the most unmissable towns to visit in Tuscany and hopefully inspire you to add them to your own itinerary.

How We Made It Here

One of life’s great joys is when your friends get married. And no, I’m not talking about the whole love and vows part, although that is lovely. I’m talking about when they choose a destination wedding. Nothing says “I adore you” quite like being forced to hop on a plane to Italy, Mexico or Bali. What a hardship.

A few years ago, one of my close high school friends got married in Italy. And while it technically wasn’t a destination wedding, (she was marrying an Italian winemaker) it still felt like one. A very dreamy one. It was the perfect excuse for my husband and me to plan our first European adventure together. It wasn’t my first time in Europe, but it was his, which meant I was determined to make it epic.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

My Personal Travel Style

This trip was also when I shifted how I travel. In college, I bounced around from city to city with friends, trying to cram in as much as possible. London to Barcelona to Rome to Amsterdam all in one go. At the time, it felt iconic. But later I realized how chaotic and surface level it all was.

Now I travel by region. Instead of hopping between five countries in two weeks, I pick one area and deep dive. For example, during one trip we road tripped on the Wild Atlantic way in Ireland, tested tons of great pubs and historical sights in Dublin, kissed the Blarney Stone in Cork and even put our toes in the ocean in Donegal. I may have never been to Murder Hole Beach (more on this beach here) or had time to explore the Gap of Dunloe or the Ring of Kerry if we had just popped over to Ireland for a couple days, while (likely) never making it out of the capital.

Traveling this way makes everything feel richer. Driving small roads, chatting with locals, discovering tiny towns you never would have considered before. You spend less time sitting at airports and more time experiencing the actual country. Plus, if you are a type A Capricorn like me, this style feels extremely satisfying. So many boxes checked in one area.

Of course, there is zero shame in bopping from country to country if that’s your thing. But if you have a long trip coming up, whether it is a national park road trip or backpacking through South America, slowing down and focusing on one region is absolutely worth trying.

Tuscany

Alright, back to Italy. My friend was getting married near a small town called La California on the Tuscan coast, so we decided to make a full adventure out of it. We started in Rome and then spent ten days road tripping through Tuscany before ending the trip with Lake Como. It was cute, it was busy, and we saw some truly incredible places. Here are my favorites and why they are my most unmissable Tuscan spots.

Pienza

This list isn’t technically ranked by favorites, but if it were, Pienza would win. Nestled in the Val d’Orcia, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has such an interesting backstory. It was originally known as Corsignana and belonged to the Piccolomini family before Aeneas Piccolomini was born. He later became Pope Pius II and decided to rebuild the entire town in Renaissance style as his personal escape from Rome. Pope Pius was definitely giving main character energy, long before it we had a label for it.

Pienza still carries that history in its bones. It is genuinely one of the most beautiful towns we visited in Tuscany. The historic streets are filled with little shops, and every corner feels photogenic. Locals decorate their doorways with plants, flowers and ceramic pieces that make the whole place feel cared for.

Don’t miss the Cathedral in Piazza Pio II with its striking Gothic exterior. My personal favorite stop was Palazzo Piccolomini, the Pope’s former summer residence. When you step into the cloister, pale beige curtains hanging between white columns, looking out at a quiet garden, it feels like stepping into another century.

And of course, Pienza is the home of pecorino. If you smell cheese before you see it, congratulations, you are doing Pienza correctly.

Montalcino

A quick drive from Pienza brings you to Montalcino, also in the Val d’Orcia. This hilltop town has been settled since Etruscan times and still carries a medieval, slightly dramatic energy that I adored.

You can see most of Montalcino in a few hours, which makes it perfect for road trippers. The highlight is the 14th century Fortress where you can walk the courtyard, climb the tower and explore the outer walls. The views are unreal. You get sweeping panoramas of the rolling Tuscan countryside in every direction.

Montalcino is also the holy land of Brunello wine. This is one of Italy’s most iconic (and pricey) wines, made from 100 percent Sangiovese. We loved our tasting at Il Palazzone, where we learned about the wild rules for Brunello DOCG production. Wear good shoes though. This town sits on a hill, and some of the climbs are no joke, especially in summer heat.

Siena

Siena is more of a city than a town, but the impact it left on me earns it a spot on this list. The historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has deep ties to banking history. It is home to Monte dei Paschi, the oldest bank in the world, founded in 1472. You also might know Siena for its famous Palio horse races that take place twice a year in Piazza del Campo. Each rider represents one of the city’s 17 districts, and the whole event is a full spectacle.

If you visit in July or August, you may catch the Palio decorations and celebrations filling the square. The flags of each district transform the city into something that feels theatrical and deeply local.

Even without the Palio, there is so much to do. My favorite experience was climbing the Torre del Mangia, built between 1338 and 1348. It is narrow and the 505 steps will make you question your life choices, but the views at the top are worth it. Afterward, wander over to Siena’s stunning cathedral. Fun fact: it is intentionally the same height as the tower to symbolize that the church and state held equal power. The façade alone is unforgettable.

Montepulciano

About 40 minutes from Montalcino sits Montepulciano, home of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (more delicious red wine). This medieval and Renaissance town sits high on a giant limestone ridge, which makes the views some of the best we experienced in Italy.

Montepulciano has been fought over throughout history and later became a sort of training ground for Renaissance architects, including Antonio da Sangallo the Elder. Today, it is a gorgeous place to wander and get “lost” among honey colored alleys and sweeping lookouts.

The main square, Piazza Grande, is home to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and Palazzo Contucci. And of course you should go wine tasting. Enoliteca Consorzio Vino Nobile is a great stop because they have glass floors where you can look down into an old stone wine cellar. It feels very secret passageway chic.

If you can time it right, stay for sunset. The hills glow gold, and you may have a spiritual experience.

Volterra

The last town on this list is Volterra. And yes, I fully stopped here because of the second Twilight movie. Zero shame. But honestly, I found a town even better than the Edward-and-Bella saga made it seem.

Volterra was once one of the main cities of the Etruscan Federation and still has sections of its ancient fortification walls dating back to the 4th century BC. Today, the town is known for its Roman ruins, medieval squares and its beautiful alabaster carvings.

Start your visit in Piazza dei Priori, surrounded by grand medieval palaces. Then wander through town imagining yourself running through the crowd in a red cloak during St. Marcus Day. Twilight fans get it. Don’t miss the Roman theater ruins and take time to enjoy the local wine and restaurants. Volterra feels both ancient and cinematic all at once.

The Bottom Line

You really cannot go wrong anywhere in Tuscany. The vineyards, rolling hills, medieval towns and centuries old traditions make this region endlessly enchanting. A few places still on my list that I have heard amazing things about include Orvieto, Lucca and San Gimignano. I hope you get the chance to explore this magical region, let me know how it goes.

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post The 5 Tuscany Towns I’d Visit Again appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

The Ring of Kerry is one of those quintessential stops on any Ireland itinerary. Located in County Kerry (shocking, I know), this scenic loop winds past castles, stone forts, jaw-dropping viewpoints, sandy beaches, and most importantly, the best bowl of beef stew you’ll ever eat.

The beef stew isn’t technically part of the Ring of Kerry, but trust me, it’s worth the detour.

Like so many places in Ireland, the Ring of Kerry is a “choose your own adventure.” You can stop at every landmark or just a handful. Drive it yourself at your own pace or hop on a guided tour. You can join the tour buses by driving counterclockwise, or go clockwise and experience the thrill of squeezing past them on narrow Irish roads. No matter what you choose, set aside an entire day for the journey, because the Ring is about the views, the atmosphere, and the unexpected discoveries along the way.

If you want a super detailed map with every possible stop, check out my favorite resource: The Irish Road Trip. But if you want the best highlights and practical tips all in one place, this guide will take you through step by step.

Tour Options

Driving is the most flexible way to experience the Ring of Kerry, but not everyone wants to brave Ireland’s winding country roads. Luckily, there are plenty of guided tours available:

• Rail Tours: that combine scenic train rides with coach transfers.
• Bus Tours: that take the stress out of driving and navigation.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Step by Step Ring of Kerry Guide

This guide has you starting in Killarney. My recommendation is to download offline maps with Google Maps and enter your points of interest step by step and follow those directions. Alternatively, you can open this map on your phone and navigate to each stop you would like to check out. Follow along below for my favorite stops along the Ring!

Step 1. Ladies Viewpoint and Moll’s Gap ~1 hour

Start your day with two of the most famous viewpoints in County Kerry. Ladies View is named after Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting, who swooned over the sweeping vistas during the royal visit in 1861. From here, you can see the Lakes of Killarney framed by rolling green hills.

Continue on to Moll’s Gap, a mountain pass where the road snakes between dramatic peaks. The views are especially striking on a clear morning when the light spills over the valley. It’s the perfect place to pull over, breathe in that fresh Irish air, and snap a few photos before moving on. If you want to add into your Ring of Kerry itinerary a stop through the Gap of Dunloe, read my post on how best to visit this magnificent area.

Step 2. Kenmare ~10 minutes

This colorful town is a gem. Known for its traditional shopfronts painted in bright colors, Kenmare feels lively but still cozy. Take a quick stroll through the streets and pop into a café for breakfast. I recommend Rookery Lane Food & Lodging for fresh pastries, coffee, and a warm welcome.

If you have time, wander down to the stone circle at the edge of town, one of the largest in southwest Ireland. It dates back to the Bronze Age and adds a touch of mystique to your morning.

Step 3. Dunkerron Castle ~6 minutes

Hidden behind holiday cottages, the ruins of Dunkerron Castle are worth a quick stop. Built in 1596, this was once the stronghold of the O’Sullivan clan. Today, ivy drapes across the stone walls and it feels like a forgotten corner of history. Even though it’s not as well-known as some of the bigger castles on the Ring, it makes for atmospheric photos and a quiet moment away from the main road.

Step 4. Sneem ~25 minutes

Arriving in Sneem feels like stepping into a postcard. The brightly painted houses pop against the green hills, and the town square is perfect for stretching your legs. Grab a coffee, browse the local shops, or simply admire the views. Sneem is small but memorable, the kind of place that leaves you smiling as you head back on the road.

Step 5. Staigue Stone Fort ~25 minutes

One of the highlights of the Ring, Staigue Stone Fort is a masterpiece of Iron Age engineering. Built around 300 AD, the circular stone structure was likely a defensive stronghold for local kings. The walls are up to 18 feet thick and stand without mortar, a testament to ancient craftsmanship.

Climb inside and you’ll feel the weight of history. The fort sits high on a hill with sweeping views, so it is both practical and dramatic. If you want more, Caherdaniel Fort nearby offers a similar experience.

Step 6. First Beach Stop ~20 minutes

By now, you’ll be ready for some sea air. You have two excellent choices:

• Castle Cove Beach with its small bay and calm waters
• Derrynane Beach, a larger expanse of golden sand backed by dunes

Nearby, you can also visit Derrynane House, the historic home of Daniel O’Connell, one of Ireland’s most famous political leaders. The house is now a museum and the grounds are a peaceful place for a walk.

Step 7. Waterville ~15 minutes

This seaside town has a long beach, a relaxed vibe, and an unexpected Hollywood connection. Charlie Chaplin spent many vacations here, and there’s even a statue of him on the promenade. Waterville is also popular with golfers, but even if you are not into the sport, it’s a scenic spot for a stroll and a quick bite.

Step 8. Ballinskellig ~15 minutes

At this point, you have reached the gateway to the Skellig Ring, a smaller but equally scenic loop that branches off the main Ring of Kerry. Stop at Ballinskellig Castle, a crumbling tower right on the water, and Ballinskellig Abbey, perched dramatically on the edge of the ocean. The Abbey ruins are hauntingly beautiful, with waves crashing just below.

Step 9. Skellig Ring Highlights ~20–30 minutes

If you have time, continue onto the Skellig Ring for extra viewpoints. Coomanaspig Pass offers breathtaking panoramas across the ocean, while the Kerry Cliffs give you towering sea cliffs without the crowds of the Cliffs of Moher. The short walk to the viewing platform is well worth the small entrance fee.

For a sweet stop, head to Skelligs Chocolate Factory, where you can sample handmade chocolates while gazing out to sea.

Step 10. Portmagee ~5 minutes

By now you will be hungry, and Portmagee is the perfect lunch stop. Head straight to Moorings Guesthouse & Seafood, famous (according to me) for its hearty beef stew and seafood dishes. The cozy pub atmosphere is everything you imagine an Irish meal should be with the added bonus of a shrine to Star Wars.

Star Wars fans will love Portmagee. Nearby Skellig Michael was a filming location for The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. If you are a mega fan, you can even take a boat trip to the island, though tours require advance booking.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Step 11. Viewpoints Part Two ~7 minutes

After lunch, choose between two more spectacular viewpoints.

• Bray Head for a cliff walk with endless ocean views
• Geokaun Mountain and Cliffs, which has panoramic views of Valentia Island and the Atlantic

If you can only pick one, Geokaun’s cliffs are especially impressive.

We had a beautiful trip to Ireland where nearly everyday was filled with sunshine and blue skies. However, our day exploring the Ring of Kerry was by far the worst weather we had. It is a risk on any trip, but especially in Ireland where the rain is frequent and the conditions fickle. Please enjoy our completely fogged in view points and just imagine what you may see on a clear day!

Wrapping Up the Ring

At this point you’re heading into the final stretch. The scenery remains beautiful but the stops begin to resemble those you’ve already seen, so feel free to prioritize.

Cahersiveen ~20 minutes
Pass through the town or detour to Cahergall Stone Fort, another remarkable example of ancient Irish stonework.

Kells Bay House and Garden ~15 minutes
This botanical garden features waterfalls, exotic plants, and playful rope bridges. It’s a wonderful place to stretch your legs and wander among giant ferns.

Rossbeigh Beach ~20 minutes
Another long sandy beach, perfect for one last walk by the water before finishing the loop.

Killorglin ~30 minutes, optional
Your final town on the loop. Stop to see the quirky King Puck Monument, which celebrates Ireland’s oldest festival where a goat is crowned king. For a local shopping fix, head to Kerry Woollen Mills. End your adventure with pizza and craft beer at Killarney Brewing and Distilling.

The Bottom Line

The Ring of Kerry is one of Ireland’s most iconic drives for a reason. Along the way you’ll encounter castles, stone forts, cliffs, beaches, colorful towns, and views that change with every bend in the road. Even if the weather turns gray and misty, lean into the drama. Fog and rain only make the landscape more atmospheric.

Set aside a full day, pack snacks, and give yourself the gift of slow travel. Whether you join a tour or drive it yourself, the Ring of Kerry will leave you with stories, photos, and memories that stay with you long after you’ve left Ireland.

For more Ireland travel tips, check out my shop for detailed itineraries for Irish destinations. Or continue to explore other Ireland posts below!

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post Ultimate Ring of Kerry Itinerary: Best Stops, Views, and Tips appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

While living in France, I had friends and family who took the opportunity of us living abroad to make a trip out to Europe. Some had been putting it off, others wanted an excuse to finally go. For my friend Mel, it was about indulging in the things she hadn’t been able to do on previous trips, no following the budget hawks or more opinionated travelers. This trip was about her with everything she (and I) wanted to do, which included this Burgundy wine tour.

Lucky for me, she’s the perfect travel buddy. We explored parts of France neither of us had seen before, with the focus squarely on wine. We lucked into the most iconic day in Paris, complete with perfect weather, nonstop laughs, and wine from sunup to sundown. But first came Burgundy, and one of the best adventures I’ve ever had: biking the Voie des Vignes.

If you are eager to plan your own trip to Burgundy, head over to my detailed, plug and play destination guides. I have one for the region that covers everything you need to know to visit this gorgeous region and what to see in Dijon and Beaune!

Why Burgundy for Wine Lovers

Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. While small in size, its influence is huge. This is the land of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but you’ll also find pockets of Gamay, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, and Pinot Gris.

If you’re not a fan of Chardonnay, don’t panic. You won’t find the oaky, buttery flavors of California here. Instead, many winemakers use stainless steel, clay eggs, or amphoras, while others rely on neutral French oak for short periods of aging. The result is fresh, mineral-driven wines that are as elegant as they are drinkable.

At the very top of Burgundy wines are the Grand Crus, 33 designated plots producing some of the most prestigious wines in the world. Bottles can cost hundreds (or even tens of thousands) of euros. But here’s the good news: Grand Cru wines only make up about 1–2% of Burgundy’s production. That means you can drink excellent village-level or Premier Cru wines without emptying your bank account.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Voie des Vignes Wine Trail

If there’s one thing locals and wine travelers agree on, it’s this: the best way to experience Burgundy is by bike. Enter the Voie des Vignes, a 22 km (13.5 mile) cycling path that winds from Beaune to Santenay. Along the way, you’ll pass rolling vineyards, stone villages, and dozens of wineries.

• Distance: 22 km (13.5 miles)
  
• Route: Beaune to Santenay
  
• Time: 1 day for 2–3 tastings and lunch; 2 days if you want to take it slow
  
• Trail type: Paved with road crossings, well-marked with signage (though I recommend Google Maps as backup)

It’s a choose-your-own-adventure: you follow the set path but decide which wineries, châteaux, or villages to stop in. When planning this route, I chose to go, medium, far, close (if that makes sense). What I mean is our first stop of the day was in Mersault a village about halfway between Beaune (the start) and Santenay (the end). We then biked the remaining half to Santenay and saved our shortest distance (Pommard to Beaune, about 10-15 minutes by bike) for our very last trek. I think this method was perfect to do the bulk of the biking up front and rewarding at the end when your commute is the shortest and your butt is the sorest.

As a Burgundy newbie and first time visitor, I used the Beaune Tourism website to help me decide what villages to stop in and what wineries to visit. So don’t feel trapped making these stops, there are so many different wine houses you can cycle to. In fact I urge to dive in head first and find out which wineries are most intriguing to you and build your own route with those in mind.

Bike Rentals for the Voie des Vignes

Two great options in Beaune:

• Bourgogne Evasion
• Bourgogne Randonees

Pro tip: If you’re not a regular cyclist or don’t love hills, rent an e-bike. The path isn’t flat, and “a few hills” can feel like mountains after wine tastings. I am a fairly athletic gal who hits the gym daily and still felt like all that resistance I added on the Peloton wasn’t enough preparation.

Bike Tours

If you are not a confident biker or would rather someone make sure you can get from point A to point B check out this Full Day Wine Tour by Bike

Our Voie des Vignes Adventure

The day started with… rain. Not a drizzle, a full-on Burgundy monsoon. Mel, ever the smart packer, had a thick waterproof jacket. I, ever the optimist, had a light raincoat and a new trench coat that was cute but very dumb for cycling. Spoiler: the grapes were happy about the rain, we were less so.

Stop 1: Château de Meursault

After powering through some “not-that-bad-but-actually-kinda-bad” hills, we rolled into Château de Meursault, one of the most storied estates in the Côte de Beaune. Even with scaffolding up for renovations, the château looked like something out of a period film.

We warmed up with a quick bathroom break, some half-hearted eyeliner fixes, and then descended into their underground cellars. These vaulted stone caves stretch for kilometers, stacked floor to ceiling with barrels aging Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Our guide walked us through the history of the estate before leading us into a tasting room where we compared multiple vintages of the same wine, a vertical tasting. For two wine lovers, it was a dream to taste how different years shaped the same vineyard. Even dripping wet in jeans, we were in heaven.

Stop 2: Domaine Evenstad, Santenay

Back on the trail, the rain hadn’t let up, but the scenery almost distracted us from being soaked. We pedaled through villages where time seemed to stand still, stone houses with blue shutters, little cafés with chalkboard menus and of course, endless rows of vines. While picturesque, I did wonder what I was actually doing. Misery was a word being tossed around my head, between the thigh burn and relentless weather.

We eventually reached Santenay, a charming wine town at the far end of the trail. Despite running late, the team at Domaine Evenstad welcomed us warmly. Their tasting room was sleek and modern, a contrast to the medieval caves we’d just come from. Over glasses of Pinot Noir, our host explained the winery’s unique story: the owners also run a highly regarded estate in Oregon. Suddenly, the connections between Burgundy and the Willamette Valley made perfect sense, both regions are Pinot Noir havens with cool climates and passionate vintners. We of course knew of their Oregon winery Domaine Serene which produces some coveted pinots.

This stop was shorter than our first, but it was one of those tastings where you walk away feeling like you’ve learned as much about people and places as about wine.

Stop 3: Château de Pommard

The last stretch of cycling was blessedly dry, and for the first time all day, the sun peeked out. The landscape lit up, golden stone walls, rolling vines, and church spires in the distance. It felt like a reward for powering through the earlier chaos. Even giving me the feeling of “what could I have been complaining about earlier??”

We arrived at Château de Pommard, a true gem and easily my favorite stop of the day. The château itself is stunning, with manicured grounds and elegant tasting rooms. But what really won me over was the winery’s biodynamic philosophy. Instead of tractors, they use horses to plow the vineyards, a practice that feels both traditional and forward-thinking. Standing in the vines, hearing about the lunar calendar and organic farming methods, was interesting in a way I hadn’t expected. But to be honest, I absolutely nerd out on winemaking, a dream career in another life.

The tasting itself was equally memorable, thoughtful pours, generous explanations, and a chance to really savor the wines. I ended up buying a case to ship home (in France, a “case” is six bottles, which made me feel very restrained). This was the kind of experience you travel for.

The Bottom Line

At the end of the day I was thankful that we did the long biking up front and only had about 10 minutes from Pommard back to Beaune to return our bikes. My butt was beginning to smart from the bike and surviving the weather had tired me out. If you choose to adventure down the Voie des Vignes, learn from me and follow these tips:

• Rent the e-bike. Even if you think you’re athletic, save your legs for enjoying the wine.
  
• Bring real rain gear. A poncho or proper waterproof jacket is essential.
  
• Pad your timing. Don’t underestimate the hills, the weather, or how long you’ll want to linger at tastings.
  
• Embrace the chaos. The rain, the late arrivals, the wet jeans, it all makes for better stories.
  

Despite the mishaps, this was one of my favorite days in France. The Voie des Vignes gave us rolling vineyards, historic châteaux, hidden villages, and more wine than we could carry. We capped it all off with dinner at La Dilettante in Beaune, which I cannot recommend enough.

Would I do it again? Absolutely. But next time, I’m bringing a poncho and hitting the “reserve e-bike” button.

The post Cycling the Voie des Vignes: A Self-Guided Burgundy Wine Route appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

I had the absolute pleasure of hosting my friend Mel as we explored some of the best wine regions of France. While I love hosting people in my city (Bordeaux!), I also love the adventure of discovering a new place together. When we knew we wanted a trip focused on wine, Burgundy became our must-stop. Home to some of the best Pinot Noirs and grand cru Chardonnays exploring this famous wine region is an absolute must for any casual or serious wine enthusiasts. What we didn’t expect was the joy of guiding ourselves through Dijon’s owl trail, more on that below!

While I researched how best to see Burgundy, I quickly realized that the towns of Dijon and Beaune were essential stops. They are perfect bases for exploring Burgundy’s famous wine subregions: Côte de Nuits, Côte d’Or, and Côte de Beaune. While this was a very wine-focused trip (read about our bike adventure on the Voie des Vignes here), what surprised me most was how much I fell in love with the town of Dijon.

About Dijon

Dijon is more than mustard, it’s a picturesque city with the charm of a village, welcoming locals, leafy parks, and historic architecture around every corner. Just exploring around town had me ooh-ing and ah-ing. One of the top things to do in Dijon, and something I knew I couldn’t miss, was the Parcours de la Chouette (Owl Trail).

If you’re not a Francophone, “chouette” means owl (though the French also use it to mean “cool” as well). Legend has it that an owl saved Dijon from destruction and ever since, the little bird has been the city’s mascot.

The Chouette Trail guides you through Dijon’s historic center in the most delightful way possible and is the number one thing to do while visiting Dijon. The plan is simple, follow the golden triangular plaques embedded in the ground, each one etched with an owl pointing the way. The plaques are numbered which makes following this guide quite easy. The best part is, this walking tour is self-guided and free ! If you are interested in my full Burgundy region guide you can grab it here.

However, if you want to take the guess work out of a walking tour, I recommend checking out a guided tour:

• 2 Hour Dijon Walking Tour
• Express Walking Tour: 1 hour
• 90 minutes of the best photogenic spots in Dijon

Below, I’ve outlined all 22 stops on Dijon’s Chouette Trail with details, history, and tips. If you’re dreaming of a trip to France and wondering where to go, I hope this convinces you that Dijon deserves a place on your list.

Le Parcours de La Chouette

1. Jardin Darcy

This elegant public garden marks the starting point of the trail. Designed in the 19th century, Jardin Darcy is known for its fountain and its stone bear statue by sculptor François Pompon. We visited in spring when the flowers were blooming and the fountains had just been turned back on, magical.

2. Grand Hôtel La Cloche

Once an imperial palace welcoming Dijon’s most prestigious visitors, this building is now a five-star hotel. Its façade is gorgeous during the day, but if you come back in the evening, the illuminated exterior has a completely different glow.

3. Porte Guillaume

Dating back to 1788, this triumphal arch was built in honor of Guillaume de Volpiano who found numerous abbeys in Burgundy and Normandy. It stands as one of the few remaining gates into Dijon and marks the western entrance to the old city.

4. Poste, Place Grangier

Named for Henri and Sophie Grangier, who left their fortune to Dijon, this square is home to several architectural gems. Don’t miss the striking Art Nouveau Hôtel Central and the grand post office. If you need a break, nearby Espresso-T is a great café, my order in France is always a café noisette (double espresso with a dash of milk).

5. Les Halles

Every French city has a market, but Dijon’s covered market is exceptional. Designed by Gustave Eiffel’s workshop in the 19th century, Les Halles is the beating heart of local life. You’ll find produce, cheeses, Burgundy wines, and mustard, of course. Visit in the morning when it’s at its liveliest, grab a snack, or even enjoy a glass of wine.

6. Place François Rude

This lively square is named after Dijon-born sculptor François Rude. You will know Rude from his La Marseillaise relief on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Don’t miss the carousel in the middle, a charming spot surrounded by cafés and mustard shops.

7. Rue des Forges

Rue des Forges is considered Dijon’s most beautiful street as it is lined with historic mansions. Look out for Hôtel Aubriot, Maison Maillard, and Hôtel Chambellan, each a testament to the city’s prosperous past.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

8. Notre-Dame de Dijon

This 13th-century Gothic church is famous for its intricate façade with gargoyles and mechanical clock, the Jacquemart, which chimes every quarter hour.

9. La Chouette

On the north side of Notre-Dame you’ll find Dijon’s most beloved symbol: the little stone owl. Legend says if you rub it with your left hand while placing your right hand over your heart, your wish will come true.

10. Maison Millière

Maison Millière is an excellent example of preserved medieval architecture in Dijon. It was built in 1483 and is half-timbered. Luckily, Dijon was spared heavy WWII bombings, which is why so many historic structures like this remain intact.

11. Hôtel de Vogüé

This 17th-century private mansion is one of the city’s finest Renaissance buildings. Today it hosts cultural events, expositions, and concerts.

12. Place du Théâtre

This spacious square houses several cultural landmarks: the Dijon Opera House, the Musée Rude, and Église Saint-Michel.

13. Place de la Sainte-Chapelle

Here you’ll find the entrance to the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Dijon’s best art museum, housed in the former palace of the Dukes of Burgundy.

14. Square des Ducs

This is the perfect spot to enjoy views of the Tour Philippe le Bon, the tower that dominates Dijon’s skyline.

15. Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne

The grand palace of the Dukes of Burgundy dates back to the 14th century. Once the seat of ducal power, it now houses Dijon’s City Hall and part of the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

16. Tour Philippe le Bon

Climb the 316 steps of this 15th-century tower for the best panoramic view of Dijon. Tours are organized by the Dijon Office of Tourism, and it’s worth every step.

17. Place de la Libération

Designed in the 17th century by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the architect of Versailles), this semi-circular square is considered one of France’s most beautiful royal squares. Fountains dance here in the evening, adding to the atmosphere. This was by far my favorite stop on the Chouette Trail.

18. Palais de Justice

This 16th-century former courthouse can still be visited by booking with the Dijon Office of Tourism. While skippable if short on time, it offers an interesting glimpse into Dijon’s legal history.

19. Hôtels Particuliers

Also known as Hôtel Legouz de Gerland, this 19th-century townhouse is especially admired for its elegant courtyard.

20. Saint-Jean and Place Bossuet

This former 14th-century church has been repurposed as a theater. The surrounding square, named after Bishop Bossuet, is a quiet corner of the old town.

21. Saint-Philibert

Built in the 11th century, this is Dijon’s only Romanesque-style church. It hasn’t been used for religious services since the French Revolution but remains an important historical site.

22. Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne

This 13th-century Gothic cathedral is named after Saint Bénigne, a 1st-century martyr. Its crypt is one of the oldest Christian monuments in Burgundy, and stepping inside is well worth your time.

The Bottom Line

I hope this guide helps you save the town of Dijon with the help of its legendary owl. Whether you’re here for mustard, wine, or history, this charming walk is one of the best ways to discover the city.

If you want more, check out my full Burgundy wine guide here or read about my hilarious (and actually best ever) day bicycling through Burgundy vineyards. And if you’re planning a trip to France, don’t hesitate to reach out, I love helping fellow travelers make the most of their adventures.

The post Dijon’s Owl Trail: A Self-Guided Walking Route Through the Old Town appeared first on Update Later Travel.

• Instagram
• Pinterest
• Mail

There’s something you need to know about me: I love tourist sights. I like to visit the thing in the place, in fact, its kind of the point, no? I’m a sucker for a good tour, I’ll happily wait in line, I’ll book my tickets in advance, I’ll even put on a funny headset.

I learned the value of tours and guides and knowing what you’re experiencing when I compared my first visit to the Vatican museum to my second one (more on that below). But, I decided on my 3rd trip to Rome, I was going all out. I’d already checked off the big ones, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Spanish Steps, but this time I wanted to dig deeper. Enter: the Vatican Keymaster Tour.

How it Works

The idea is simple but genius: a small group joins the man with the keys as he opens the Vatican Museum before sunrise, unlocking doors and turning on lights room by room. Normally this process takes four hours every morning and evening, but for two hours you get to “help.” When I heard about it, I knew I had to go. Yes, I’d already visited the Vatican twice before, but this felt special. Spoiler: it was.

Color me devastated when I found it to be fully booked for every day I was in Rome, even looking a few months in advance. After weeks of obsessively refreshing two different booking sites, the travel gods (and maybe Pope Leo’s blessing) smiled on me. I snagged a spot for my final morning in Rome.

The Early Start

This tour is not for late risers. You need to be outside the Vatican Museum by 5:50 a.m. And if you’re like me, overexcited and worried about oversleeping, you show up at 5:20, standing there with about 19 other strangers wondering why you’re awake at such an ungodly hour. The Vatican Museum opens promptly at 8:00 am so this tour runs before the massive crowds arrive.

Two guides lead the way:

• The Keymaster: one of the Vatican staff who handles unlocking duties. He let us turn keys, flip switches and accepts that everyone is taking pictures of everything and gives us time to make sure our shots were just right.
  

• The Tour Guide: ours was an art historian trained in restoration and preservation. She added context, translated when needed, and sprinkled in details that made the halls come alive. She also was an excellent photographer and hype woman.

The Tour

I have spent a lot of time in the Louvre in the past year (3 separate visits) and it just makes me really appreciate the Vatican Museum. While the Louvre is humongous and houses a ton of incredible art. The Vatican Museum is palatable and doable, has great art, impressive frescos and is steeped in religious and Italian history. You can leave the museum after only a couple hours feeling like you saw nearly everything.

Typically you aren’t allowed access to the backside of Laocoön and His Sons, but the Keymaster Tour provides some extra privileges.

Unlocking History

We began at the rotunda with its famous spiral staircase. I snuck my way to the front (worth it) and coincidentally got to open the first door. The keys don’t even slide in very far, you twist and suddenly a centuries-old door creaks open. We stepped onto a terrace with St. Peter’s Basilica glowing in the dark.

From there, the tour followed the usual Vatican path, but with the magic of being alone.

• The Sarcophagus of St. Helena: made of rare red porphyry marble, once reserved only for emperors. St. Helena was the mother of Constantine the Great, and this massive coffin was her resting place.
  

• The Rotunda Room: modeled after the Pantheon by Michelangelo himself, complete with a dome and oculus. In the center is a bathtub-sized basin carved from a single piece of marble, valued at more than €2 billion.
  

• The Courtyard of the Belvedere: usually shoulder-to-shoulder with tour groups, but here it was utterly quiet. The statue of Laocoön and His Sons is the star: a dramatic scene from the Trojan War where serpents sent by Athena and Poseidon strangle the priest Laocoön and his sons for opposing the Wooden Horse. Fun fact: when the statue was discovered in 1506, Laocoön’s arm was missing. For centuries, artists debated whether it was raised in struggle or bent. In 1905, the missing arm turned up in an antiques shop, bent at the elbow, proving Michelangelo’s guess had been right all along. It wasn’t reattached until 1958.
  

Icky Things from Ancient Rome

• The Athlete: this statue was excavated in Trastevere, in the cellar that’s now part of the restaurant Spirito di Vino (which still has great food, by the way). The figure is caught mid-action, scraping sweat and grime off his body with a strigil. Here’s where it gets gross: athletes used to save that sweat, hair, and oil in bowls and sell it to women, who applied it as skincare. Yes, ancient athlete sweat as moisturizer. History is wild and kind of gross. 

Now that your done gagging over that last bit of history, we breezed past the Egyptian Rooms (sarcophagi, relics, even some mummies) before entering the Gallery of the Candelabra. Among the marble statues, my favorite detail was Faun with Infant Dionysus, one of the few statues with painted eyes. Most ancient statues are blank stone, so seeing color feels uncanny.

The Lights-On Moment

One of the absolute highlights was the Gallery of Maps. We waited in the dark while our guide flipped the switch, and suddenly the hallway glowed: intricate frescoes covering the vaulted ceiling, giant maps of Italy lining the walls, golden details catching the light. Through open windows, we caught glimpses of sunrise over the Vatican gardens and St. Peter’s dome.

Next were the Raphael Rooms. The first time I came here at 21, I barely looked, just rushed to the Sistine Chapel. On my second visit, I learned more context as we followed Rick Steve’s Vatican Tour playing in our ears while we learned the significance of these rooms. On this visit, I really appreciated them. Raphael’s School of Athens is iconic, featuring Plato, Aristotle, and other great thinkers. But the coolest detail? A self-portrait of Raphael himself, tucked shyly on the right.

PS: If you like context and history, I can’t recommend Rick Steve’s Audio Europe app enough. Very specific tours for a number of destination.

The Sistine Chapel

At last, the grand finale: the Sistine Chapel. Unlocking this door felt surreal. Each night, the key is sealed in an envelope signed by two guards, so breaking that seal in the early morning was a real privilege. A couple who was celebrating their 30th wedding anniversary had the opportunity to unseal the envelope and together, unlocked this iconic door.

No matter how many times I’ve seen it, the Sistine Chapel takes my breath away. Michelangelo painted the ceiling alone, at just 33 years old, covering it with scenes from Genesis, the Creation of Adam, the Fall of Man, and more. Decades later, at 66, he returned to paint The Last Judgment, a monumental fresco of heaven, earth, and hell. The sheer scale and detail are overwhelming.

We lingered here longer than anywhere else, marveling in silence. Every guest was given the chance to unlock the chapel doors. It was a staged close the door, unlock, enter, be wowed! Of course I took my opportunity to do the same. Standing in the same space where cardinals gather to elect a new Pope? Unreal.

A note about pictures. This was definitely a guided tour for those who want photos and videos. The guide and keymaster made it abundantly apparent where the good photo ops were and let us stay in each place until we had all exhausted our photo options. The keymaster kindly “turned his head” while in the Sistine Chapel, which is notorious for not allowing photos or videos. I plead the 5th 🙂 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Bottom Line

By 8 a.m., we were back at the gift shop as other groups began trickling in. I grabbed a cappuccino and croissant in the Pinecone Courtyard café (and reluctantly returned my husband’s phone, which I’d stolen for the better camera). The sun was shining brightly now, with St. Peter’s in the background it was a stark difference in where we started to now. As I walked to grab in uber through the crowds, lines and guides with flags I felt so grateful to have the opportunity to take the Vatican Keymaster Tour.

Was it worth it? Without question. This tour is for you if:

• You don’t mind a tour that isn’t terribly in depth.
• You crave a crowd-free Vatican.
• You’re okay with a brutal alarm clock.
• You don’t mind spending extra for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Technically, you can re-enter afterward and do the whole museum again to see what you did’t see in depth or stroll slowly through the rooms of artifacts. But honestly, nothing compares to wandering it in silence, flipping on the lights as you go.

If you want to book, try:

• Liv Tours
• Walks of Italy Tour

This was hands-down one of my favorite travel experiences ever. And if you made it through my nerdy history tangents, thanks for indulging me.

If you need help deciding where to stay in Rome check out my guide to the best Roman neighborhoods or explore the next destination on your Italy itinerary with my favorite Tuscan towns! 

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post The Vatican Keymaster Tour Recap appeared first on Update Later Travel.