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Ireland is packed with beautiful landscapes: rolling green hills dotted with sheep, dramatic cliffs and some of the most underrated beaches in Europe. Seriously, I kept calling it the “Hawaii of Europe” because of its plentiful white sand beaches. (Don’t miss my Ireland beach recommendations here!). But one of the most unforgettable spots I visited wasn’t a beach at all, but it was the Gap of Dunloe.
This glacier-carved mountain pass stretches 11 km between McGillycuddy’s Reeks (mountains) and Purple Mountain (also a mountain) and was formed during the last ice age. Even with the paved road running through it, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped straight into Middle Earth. With its mountain lakes, sweeping views and charming “wishing bridge”, the Gap is an absolute must on any Ring of Kerry or Killarney itinerary.
I first became obsessed with the idea of discovering the Gap of Dunloe while planning my Ring of Kerry trip and quickly realized there are countless ways to experience it. Below, I’ll walk you through the options and share my favorite stealthy (and safe) way to enjoy the Gap without the crowds.
Here is an overview of how you can discover the Gap of Dunloe in all its beauty:
- Bike or Bike + Boat
- Walk or Walk + Boat
- Jaunty + Boat
- Drive 😈
The Details
- Start: Kate Kearney’s Cottage (about 15 minutes driving from Killarney)
- End: Lord Brandon’s Lodge (11km/ 7 miles from the start)
- Parking: available at Kate Kearney’s, but fills up in peak season.
Gap of Dunloe Lore
Fun fact: Kate Kearney’s cottage is named after a famously beautiful woman known for distilling Poitin (a traditional Irish spirit) here. Now, it’s a cozy stop for snacks and coffee and the official welcome sign for the Gap of Dunloe. On the other end, Lord Brandon’s Lodge comes with its own drama: legend says Lord Brandon locked his wife in the stone tower when she was caught having an affair with Lord Melbourne (who later became Britain’s Prime Minister!). The scandal !
How to experience the Gap of Dunloe
1. Bike or Boat
Cost: €45 E-Bike Rental + Optional €35 Boat Tour and Transfer
Route A: Bike
I started with the most physically demanding of the options. From the town of Killarney you can rent a bike (Killarney Rent-a-Bike or Killarney Bike Rental) and bike around 56 km (35 miles) from the town through the Gap, Black Valley, Moll’s Gap and ending at the Ladies Viewpoint before taking the main road (N71) back to Killarney. This is both a long adventure and has a steep ascent (especially near the end), so be warned or rent an E-bike to make that hill a bit more manageable! You will have total freedom, epic views and can turn back anytime.
Route B: Bike + Boat
Alternatively, if you want to bike from Killarney through the Gap of Dunloe, I recommend stopping at Lord Brandon’s Lodge and taking the scenic boat tour through the lakes of Killarney with your bike in tow. The boat tour will start at the Lodge and end at Ross Castle, which is just a short 5 minute bike ride back to the center of Killarney. You can opt for the reverse route, starting at Ross Castle and taking the boat to Lord Brandon’s Lodge, then biking the gap from the “end” to Kate Kearney’s Cottage before heading back into Killarney. Both are great options !
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2. Walking
Walking lets you soak in every detail, at your own pace.You will have to arrive by car or Uber to start your trek at Kate Kearney’s Cottage.
- If you want to keep it quick, walk about 30 total minutes to the Wishing Bridge and back.
- Walk the full 11 km path, which will take a few hours. You can opt for a jaunty back, boat tour or walk back.
3. Jaunty
What the heck is a jaunty? This traditional horse-drawn carriage is super popular in the Gap of Dunloe. While I’m not usually a fan of any horse-drawn rides, in my experience the drivers here are generally respectful of the animals. Expect to pay around €35 per person from start to finish. You can return by jaunty (same price), walking or boat tour.
4. Professional Guide
If you want to take the headache out of planning your pathway but still want to experience the majesty as you travel between two misty mountains, check out one of these two tours that will get you from point A to point B with ease.
5. Drive (Yes, Really)
Everything you will read everywhere, will tell you not to drive. And to be honest, you shouldn’t. The Gap of Dunloe is a narrow “2 lane road” winding between mountains, with sheep crossings and bridges (a lot even for the stone lined, thin roads of Ireland). As if that wasn’t a deterrent enough, you have to cope with bikers, walkers and jaunty’s throughout the drive.
But here’s the secret. You absolutely can drive it, if you go early. I mean before sunrise early. I did it myself and only passed one other car. No stress, no traffic, just stunning views all to myself and during the peak travel months, no less.
The reason this works is you are arriving before the crowds (obviously), but also before the jaunty’s start showing up (which is 8-9am). If you are feeling brave and want to check it out via car, read how below.
The Plan
- Leave your accommodations around 0600. It will take about 15 minutes to arrive at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, if you are staying in the town of Killarney. It shouldn’t be severely dark outside, but you should be traveling as the sun is coming up, so adjust your departure time with the season.
- From here, enter the Gap. Safely stop at pull-offs for photo ops (and sheep crossings).
- Without stops, it will take about 45 minutes to reach Lord Brandon’s Lodge.
- You are going to continue from the Lodge to Moll’s Gap, admiring the views all along your route. This will take about another 35 minutes.
From here you can follow the N71 and head back to Killarney. If you want to make a morning of it and enjoy some well earned coffee continue on this path:
- From Moll’s Gap you are going to drive an additional 10 minutes to the adorable town of Kenmare. After your early morning, and about 2 hours on the road you have earned yourself a giant coffee and lovely breakfast. Stop by the tasty Rookery Lane Food & Lodging and make sure to stretch your legs with a stroll around town to admire the colorful buildings and general peace and quiet you get in the mornings.
- Return to Killarney by making a stop at the Ladies Viewpoint, which overlooks everywhere you have been, to round out your Gap of Dunloe experience.
The Gap of Dunloe is one of the most magical places in Ireland. The serene drive along the windy road, with spray painted sheep around every corner, stone bridges and rolling hills. The best part is you can experience however you like. Bike and boat, walk, hop in a jaunty or sneak in an early morning drive. Mix and match to fit your group and your energy levels.
However you choose, don’t miss this gem on your Ring of Kerry trip. And as always, if you have questions, reach out, I love helping fellow travelers make the most of their adventures.
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