Marfa, Texas: a tiny town with big art vibes.
In 2021, I was on my second national park road trip with my best friend, Lindsey, which led us to the remote beauty of Big Bend National Park. I could go on about BBNP, (a stunning national Park in SW Texas, with incredible hiking and the famous Rio Grande River running through it, separating Mexico and the US), but thats not why we are here.
After flying into El Paso, Texas, we had been driving for just over two hours when we spotted our beacon, in the vast, desolate Chihuahuan Desert—a Prada boutique. Yes, you read that right: a Prada boutique.
Located along the side of Route 90, this curious, all-white art installation looked like something straight out of an art lover's dream—or perhaps a surrealist's. Inside, it showcased real Prada shoes and bags circa 2005. Peeking through the windows might lead you to believe it was abandoned (Prada would never!), but it wasn’t. This peculiar boutique is just a glimpse into the larger-than-life art scene that defines Marfa, Texas. If you know, you know, but if you don’t I’m here to tell you.
Historically, Marfa was a key water stop and freight hub for the Texas Railway in the late 1800s. By the mid-1900s, the town served as a military site, most notably housing the Marfa Army Airfield for a brief period. However, it wasn't until 1971, when minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to Marfa, that the town's artistic identity began to flourish. Judd repurposed the abandoned airbase into a space to showcase his art, and from there, Marfa’s reputation as an art destination grew.
The town also made its mark on the film world, serving as the backdrop for James Dean’s final film, Giant, as well as the Coen Brothers’ No Country for Old Men and Paul Thomas Anderson’s There Will Be Blood. But art and cinema aren’t the only things that make Marfa stand out. Just nine miles east of town, facing the Chinati Mountains, you can experience the Marfa Lights—an unexplained phenomenon where colorful, dancing lights appear on the horizon, baffling visitors and adding an air of mystery to the town.
While Marfa is a bit off the beaten path in southwest Texas, it’s well worth the detour. Had I not been heading to Big Bend National Park, I might have taken longer to visit, but if you find yourself in Texas, I can’t recommend stopping by enough. Keep reading to discover why Marfa deserves a spot on your travel bucket list!
The Art
It would be remiss to not step foot in at least a few of the art galleries housed in Marfa. Artists from all over the world visit the home that Donald Judd built. You can see everything from paintings, photographs, textiles, light shows, giant statues and performances. Here are some great options for your visit:
Chinati Foundation: the heart and soul of Judd’s work. Combining his love for art and nature you can see much of his work outside the building. If you want to know more, head to their website and set up a guided tour or a self guided walking tour of the outdoor art.
Judd Foundation: Judd’s house, left in perfectly intact from his last visit before his death in 1990.
The Art Blocks: technology meets craftsmanship in this gallery.
Ballroom Marfa: check out changing art installations in a 1920’s ballroom. This group is responsible for the Prada Store outside of town, which Beyoncé has also visited. If its’ good enough for Beyoncé, it’s good enough for me.
New Star Grocery Art Museum: part grocery store part art museum, this spot showcases the work of Lineaus Hooper Lorette. He was an eclectic man, and this museum showcases some of his collections. Make sure to hop in while you can, as the gallery is only open for 3 hours a day Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
The Sentinel.
The Shops
My time in Marfa was spent traipsing around town and popping into whatever gallery or shop that was open that day. You will learn while visiting Marfa, that the standard rules of business don’t apply. Some shops close at lunch, only to reopen the following week with no notice. My advice is to experience everything the town has to offer while you are there. Most of the things I bought in Marfa can be categorized as “don’t need, but might die if I don’t get it” or “this is the cutest thing I never knew I needed.” Ignore the rational side of your brain, and let Marfa tell you what you need. Here are some of the shops you don’t want to miss, assuming you catch them while they are open.
Marfa Mood Mercantile: I think I can fully explain this spot by saying, I left it happily with a marigold hat with white block lettering, spelling out the word “Queso”.
Raba Marfa: one of a kind, vintage finds. Their stock is updated daily, so make sure to stop by at least twice while in Marfa.
Communitie Marfa: a Western boutique selling clothing, home goods and most importantly, Stetsons.
Wrong Store: a little bit of everything at this shop, so wrong it's right (not their slogan, but maybe it should be).
The Sentinel: Similar to the other stores in town, think textiles, gems etc. BUT, you can also get a drink here. Thanks to the amazing proprietor slash bartender the day I visited, I experienced my first Ranch Water ! In addition to their flawless cocktails, they also serve coffee and breakfast.
Where to Eat & Drink
Marfa Burrito: I almost stopped the list here. Head here for the most iconic breakfast burrito, open early and late to meet all your burrito needs.
Lost Horse Saloon: seen on parts unknown with Anthony Bourdain. Follow the instructions at the restaurant and you won’t be steered wrong.
Alta Marfa: the best (albeit only) wine bar in Marfa! Don’t miss the cozy atmosphere and small plates to go with your glass of wine.
Big Bend Coffee Roasters: with 20 different kinds of beans that are roasted daily, this might be your best stop for a coffee in the Marfa area.
Marfa Spirit Company: a true gem in Marfa (although what isn't?), don’t miss the tastings, seasonal cocktails and live music.
The Water Stop: brunch, lunch, dinner, cocktails, burgers and an incredible fried chicken sandwich. What else do you need?
El Turista: El Turista is serving the gamut of Mexican food in a roadside stand. Don’t miss the side of beans which has peppers and chunks of bacon and hot dog in it. I’m drooling.
There's no wrong way to explore Marfa—every stop offers something unique. Supporting the local businesses and art spaces helps keep this vibrant town alive. The only mistake you could make is not visiting at all
