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While living in France, I had friends and family who took the opportunity of us living abroad to make a trip out to Europe. Some had been putting it off, others wanted an excuse to finally go. For my friend Mel, it was about indulging in the things she hadn’t been able to do on previous trips, no following the budget hawks or more opinionated travelers. This trip was about her with everything she (and I) wanted to do, which included this Burgundy wine tour.

Lucky for me, she’s the perfect travel buddy. We explored parts of France neither of us had seen before, with the focus squarely on wine. We lucked into the most iconic day in Paris, complete with perfect weather, nonstop laughs, and wine from sunup to sundown. But first came Burgundy, and one of the best adventures I’ve ever had: biking the Voie des Vignes.

If you are eager to plan your own trip to Burgundy, head over to my detailed, plug and play destination guides. I have one for the region that covers everything you need to know to visit this gorgeous region and what to see in Dijon and Beaune!

Why Burgundy for Wine Lovers

Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. While small in size, its influence is huge. This is the land of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but you’ll also find pockets of Gamay, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, and Pinot Gris.

If you’re not a fan of Chardonnay, don’t panic. You won’t find the oaky, buttery flavors of California here. Instead, many winemakers use stainless steel, clay eggs, or amphoras, while others rely on neutral French oak for short periods of aging. The result is fresh, mineral-driven wines that are as elegant as they are drinkable.

At the very top of Burgundy wines are the Grand Crus, 33 designated plots producing some of the most prestigious wines in the world. Bottles can cost hundreds (or even tens of thousands) of euros. But here’s the good news: Grand Cru wines only make up about 1–2% of Burgundy’s production. That means you can drink excellent village-level or Premier Cru wines without emptying your bank account.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

The Voie des Vignes Wine Trail

If there’s one thing locals and wine travelers agree on, it’s this: the best way to experience Burgundy is by bike. Enter the Voie des Vignes, a 22 km (13.5 mile) cycling path that winds from Beaune to Santenay. Along the way, you’ll pass rolling vineyards, stone villages, and dozens of wineries.

• Distance: 22 km (13.5 miles)
  
• Route: Beaune to Santenay
  
• Time: 1 day for 2–3 tastings and lunch; 2 days if you want to take it slow
  
• Trail type: Paved with road crossings, well-marked with signage (though I recommend Google Maps as backup)

It’s a choose-your-own-adventure: you follow the set path but decide which wineries, châteaux, or villages to stop in. When planning this route, I chose to go, medium, far, close (if that makes sense). What I mean is our first stop of the day was in Mersault a village about halfway between Beaune (the start) and Santenay (the end). We then biked the remaining half to Santenay and saved our shortest distance (Pommard to Beaune, about 10-15 minutes by bike) for our very last trek. I think this method was perfect to do the bulk of the biking up front and rewarding at the end when your commute is the shortest and your butt is the sorest.

As a Burgundy newbie and first time visitor, I used the Beaune Tourism website to help me decide what villages to stop in and what wineries to visit. So don’t feel trapped making these stops, there are so many different wine houses you can cycle to. In fact I urge to dive in head first and find out which wineries are most intriguing to you and build your own route with those in mind.

Bike Rentals for the Voie des Vignes

Two great options in Beaune:

• Bourgogne Evasion
• Bourgogne Randonees

Pro tip: If you’re not a regular cyclist or don’t love hills, rent an e-bike. The path isn’t flat, and “a few hills” can feel like mountains after wine tastings. I am a fairly athletic gal who hits the gym daily and still felt like all that resistance I added on the Peloton wasn’t enough preparation.

Bike Tours

If you are not a confident biker or would rather someone make sure you can get from point A to point B check out this Full Day Wine Tour by Bike

Our Voie des Vignes Adventure

The day started with… rain. Not a drizzle, a full-on Burgundy monsoon. Mel, ever the smart packer, had a thick waterproof jacket. I, ever the optimist, had a light raincoat and a new trench coat that was cute but very dumb for cycling. Spoiler: the grapes were happy about the rain, we were less so.

Stop 1: Château de Meursault

After powering through some “not-that-bad-but-actually-kinda-bad” hills, we rolled into Château de Meursault, one of the most storied estates in the Côte de Beaune. Even with scaffolding up for renovations, the château looked like something out of a period film.

We warmed up with a quick bathroom break, some half-hearted eyeliner fixes, and then descended into their underground cellars. These vaulted stone caves stretch for kilometers, stacked floor to ceiling with barrels aging Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Our guide walked us through the history of the estate before leading us into a tasting room where we compared multiple vintages of the same wine, a vertical tasting. For two wine lovers, it was a dream to taste how different years shaped the same vineyard. Even dripping wet in jeans, we were in heaven.

Stop 2: Domaine Evenstad, Santenay

Back on the trail, the rain hadn’t let up, but the scenery almost distracted us from being soaked. We pedaled through villages where time seemed to stand still, stone houses with blue shutters, little cafés with chalkboard menus and of course, endless rows of vines. While picturesque, I did wonder what I was actually doing. Misery was a word being tossed around my head, between the thigh burn and relentless weather.

We eventually reached Santenay, a charming wine town at the far end of the trail. Despite running late, the team at Domaine Evenstad welcomed us warmly. Their tasting room was sleek and modern, a contrast to the medieval caves we’d just come from. Over glasses of Pinot Noir, our host explained the winery’s unique story: the owners also run a highly regarded estate in Oregon. Suddenly, the connections between Burgundy and the Willamette Valley made perfect sense, both regions are Pinot Noir havens with cool climates and passionate vintners. We of course knew of their Oregon winery Domaine Serene which produces some coveted pinots.

This stop was shorter than our first, but it was one of those tastings where you walk away feeling like you’ve learned as much about people and places as about wine.

Stop 3: Château de Pommard

The last stretch of cycling was blessedly dry, and for the first time all day, the sun peeked out. The landscape lit up, golden stone walls, rolling vines, and church spires in the distance. It felt like a reward for powering through the earlier chaos. Even giving me the feeling of “what could I have been complaining about earlier??”

We arrived at Château de Pommard, a true gem and easily my favorite stop of the day. The château itself is stunning, with manicured grounds and elegant tasting rooms. But what really won me over was the winery’s biodynamic philosophy. Instead of tractors, they use horses to plow the vineyards, a practice that feels both traditional and forward-thinking. Standing in the vines, hearing about the lunar calendar and organic farming methods, was interesting in a way I hadn’t expected. But to be honest, I absolutely nerd out on winemaking, a dream career in another life.

The tasting itself was equally memorable, thoughtful pours, generous explanations, and a chance to really savor the wines. I ended up buying a case to ship home (in France, a “case” is six bottles, which made me feel very restrained). This was the kind of experience you travel for.

The Bottom Line

At the end of the day I was thankful that we did the long biking up front and only had about 10 minutes from Pommard back to Beaune to return our bikes. My butt was beginning to smart from the bike and surviving the weather had tired me out. If you choose to adventure down the Voie des Vignes, learn from me and follow these tips:

• Rent the e-bike. Even if you think you’re athletic, save your legs for enjoying the wine.
  
• Bring real rain gear. A poncho or proper waterproof jacket is essential.
  
• Pad your timing. Don’t underestimate the hills, the weather, or how long you’ll want to linger at tastings.
  
• Embrace the chaos. The rain, the late arrivals, the wet jeans, it all makes for better stories.
  

Despite the mishaps, this was one of my favorite days in France. The Voie des Vignes gave us rolling vineyards, historic châteaux, hidden villages, and more wine than we could carry. We capped it all off with dinner at La Dilettante in Beaune, which I cannot recommend enough.

Would I do it again? Absolutely. But next time, I’m bringing a poncho and hitting the “reserve e-bike” button.

The post Cycling the Voie des Vignes: A Self-Guided Burgundy Wine Route appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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I had the absolute pleasure of hosting my friend Mel as we explored some of the best wine regions of France. While I love hosting people in my city (Bordeaux!), I also love the adventure of discovering a new place together. When we knew we wanted a trip focused on wine, Burgundy became our must-stop. Home to some of the best Pinot Noirs and grand cru Chardonnays exploring this famous wine region is an absolute must for any casual or serious wine enthusiasts. What we didn’t expect was the joy of guiding ourselves through Dijon’s owl trail, more on that below!

While I researched how best to see Burgundy, I quickly realized that the towns of Dijon and Beaune were essential stops. They are perfect bases for exploring Burgundy’s famous wine subregions: Côte de Nuits, Côte d’Or, and Côte de Beaune. While this was a very wine-focused trip (read about our bike adventure on the Voie des Vignes here), what surprised me most was how much I fell in love with the town of Dijon.

About Dijon

Dijon is more than mustard, it’s a picturesque city with the charm of a village, welcoming locals, leafy parks, and historic architecture around every corner. Just exploring around town had me ooh-ing and ah-ing. One of the top things to do in Dijon, and something I knew I couldn’t miss, was the Parcours de la Chouette (Owl Trail).

If you’re not a Francophone, “chouette” means owl (though the French also use it to mean “cool” as well). Legend has it that an owl saved Dijon from destruction and ever since, the little bird has been the city’s mascot.

The Chouette Trail guides you through Dijon’s historic center in the most delightful way possible and is the number one thing to do while visiting Dijon. The plan is simple, follow the golden triangular plaques embedded in the ground, each one etched with an owl pointing the way. The plaques are numbered which makes following this guide quite easy. The best part is, this walking tour is self-guided and free ! If you are interested in my full Burgundy region guide you can grab it here.

However, if you want to take the guess work out of a walking tour, I recommend checking out a guided tour:

• 2 Hour Dijon Walking Tour
• Express Walking Tour: 1 hour
• 90 minutes of the best photogenic spots in Dijon

Below, I’ve outlined all 22 stops on Dijon’s Chouette Trail with details, history, and tips. If you’re dreaming of a trip to France and wondering where to go, I hope this convinces you that Dijon deserves a place on your list.

Le Parcours de La Chouette

1. Jardin Darcy

This elegant public garden marks the starting point of the trail. Designed in the 19th century, Jardin Darcy is known for its fountain and its stone bear statue by sculptor François Pompon. We visited in spring when the flowers were blooming and the fountains had just been turned back on, magical.

2. Grand Hôtel La Cloche

Once an imperial palace welcoming Dijon’s most prestigious visitors, this building is now a five-star hotel. Its façade is gorgeous during the day, but if you come back in the evening, the illuminated exterior has a completely different glow.

3. Porte Guillaume

Dating back to 1788, this triumphal arch was built in honor of Guillaume de Volpiano who found numerous abbeys in Burgundy and Normandy. It stands as one of the few remaining gates into Dijon and marks the western entrance to the old city.

4. Poste, Place Grangier

Named for Henri and Sophie Grangier, who left their fortune to Dijon, this square is home to several architectural gems. Don’t miss the striking Art Nouveau Hôtel Central and the grand post office. If you need a break, nearby Espresso-T is a great café, my order in France is always a café noisette (double espresso with a dash of milk).

5. Les Halles

Every French city has a market, but Dijon’s covered market is exceptional. Designed by Gustave Eiffel’s workshop in the 19th century, Les Halles is the beating heart of local life. You’ll find produce, cheeses, Burgundy wines, and mustard, of course. Visit in the morning when it’s at its liveliest, grab a snack, or even enjoy a glass of wine.

6. Place François Rude

This lively square is named after Dijon-born sculptor François Rude. You will know Rude from his La Marseillaise relief on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Don’t miss the carousel in the middle, a charming spot surrounded by cafés and mustard shops.

7. Rue des Forges

Rue des Forges is considered Dijon’s most beautiful street as it is lined with historic mansions. Look out for Hôtel Aubriot, Maison Maillard, and Hôtel Chambellan, each a testament to the city’s prosperous past.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

8. Notre-Dame de Dijon

This 13th-century Gothic church is famous for its intricate façade with gargoyles and mechanical clock, the Jacquemart, which chimes every quarter hour.

9. La Chouette

On the north side of Notre-Dame you’ll find Dijon’s most beloved symbol: the little stone owl. Legend says if you rub it with your left hand while placing your right hand over your heart, your wish will come true.

10. Maison Millière

Maison Millière is an excellent example of preserved medieval architecture in Dijon. It was built in 1483 and is half-timbered. Luckily, Dijon was spared heavy WWII bombings, which is why so many historic structures like this remain intact.

11. Hôtel de Vogüé

This 17th-century private mansion is one of the city’s finest Renaissance buildings. Today it hosts cultural events, expositions, and concerts.

12. Place du Théâtre

This spacious square houses several cultural landmarks: the Dijon Opera House, the Musée Rude, and Église Saint-Michel.

13. Place de la Sainte-Chapelle

Here you’ll find the entrance to the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Dijon’s best art museum, housed in the former palace of the Dukes of Burgundy.

14. Square des Ducs

This is the perfect spot to enjoy views of the Tour Philippe le Bon, the tower that dominates Dijon’s skyline.

15. Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne

The grand palace of the Dukes of Burgundy dates back to the 14th century. Once the seat of ducal power, it now houses Dijon’s City Hall and part of the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

16. Tour Philippe le Bon

Climb the 316 steps of this 15th-century tower for the best panoramic view of Dijon. Tours are organized by the Dijon Office of Tourism, and it’s worth every step.

17. Place de la Libération

Designed in the 17th century by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (the architect of Versailles), this semi-circular square is considered one of France’s most beautiful royal squares. Fountains dance here in the evening, adding to the atmosphere. This was by far my favorite stop on the Chouette Trail.

18. Palais de Justice

This 16th-century former courthouse can still be visited by booking with the Dijon Office of Tourism. While skippable if short on time, it offers an interesting glimpse into Dijon’s legal history.

19. Hôtels Particuliers

Also known as Hôtel Legouz de Gerland, this 19th-century townhouse is especially admired for its elegant courtyard.

20. Saint-Jean and Place Bossuet

This former 14th-century church has been repurposed as a theater. The surrounding square, named after Bishop Bossuet, is a quiet corner of the old town.

21. Saint-Philibert

Built in the 11th century, this is Dijon’s only Romanesque-style church. It hasn’t been used for religious services since the French Revolution but remains an important historical site.

22. Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne

This 13th-century Gothic cathedral is named after Saint Bénigne, a 1st-century martyr. Its crypt is one of the oldest Christian monuments in Burgundy, and stepping inside is well worth your time.

The Bottom Line

I hope this guide helps you save the town of Dijon with the help of its legendary owl. Whether you’re here for mustard, wine, or history, this charming walk is one of the best ways to discover the city.

If you want more, check out my full Burgundy wine guide here or read about my hilarious (and actually best ever) day bicycling through Burgundy vineyards. And if you’re planning a trip to France, don’t hesitate to reach out, I love helping fellow travelers make the most of their adventures.

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There are good days in Paris, and then there are magical ones. The kind of day that makes you understand the city’s je ne sais quoi, the reason people flock here, the reason tiny apartments without bathrooms still rent for a fortune, the reason you forgive the occasional chaos and fall head-over-heels all over again. And I had one amazing, perfect day in Paris in the spring.

I didn’t expect Paris in the spring to knock my socks off. So many destinations you arrive in thinking you’ll have cooler summer weather and are disappointed with rain, cloudy skies and an overall underwhelming feeling. But not Paris, who is clearly exempt from these tropes. Instead, I had blue skies, wisteria climbing balconies, the Seine sparkling, and just enough glasses of wine to remind me why Paris is, and always will be, the city of dreams. And because I love you, I’m sharing my full one-day spring Paris itinerary: art, iconic sights, picnic perfection, a little biking adventure, and a whole lot of wine.

Morning: Monet’s Masterpieces at Musée de l’Orangerie

Start your day with a cultural hit. Book advance tickets for a morning slot (between 9–10 AM) at the Musée de l’Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement of Paris. This jewel box museum houses Monet’s Water Lilies in two massive, curved rooms designed to give you a nearly 360° immersive experience. Standing in front of those dreamy brushstrokes feels like stepping inside his garden at Giverny.

But don’t stop at the lilies. Head downstairs for a collection that traces 20th-century art through the eyes of Paul Guillaume, an art dealer who championed Cézanne, Matisse, Renoir, and early cubists. With the audio guide, plan about two hours here. While Monet’s pieces were other worldly, I really enjoyed following the story telling aspect of the lower floor.

Walk Along the Seine to Pont Alexandre III

From the Orangerie, stroll down to the Seine. Paris mornings are made for this, couples arm-in-arm, vendors setting up bookstalls, light bouncing off the water. In 15 minutes, you’ll arrive at Pont Alexandre III, arguably the city’s most beautiful bridge. Think ornate street lamps, golden statues, and straight-on views of the Eiffel Tower. It is one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower, but it won’t compare to the views you will find later in this guide.

Quick caffeine stop: head to Torre Coffee nearby in the 7th and order a café noisette (basically a double espresso shot kissed with milk) and, whatever you do, get the marble cake. Don’t question it. Just thank me later.

Rue Cler Market Street + Picnic Shopping

Now that you’re fueled, head toward Rue Cler, one of Paris’s liveliest streets. If you have been researching a trip to Paris you may have read that Rue Cler is the prettiest street in the city. While I haven’t seen every inch of Paris, I can attest to the fact that this area is absolutely to die for. It helped that the outdoor terraces were buzzing, locals were dashing in and out of shops. Here is where you’ll find everything you need for a very Parisian picnic:

• La Fromagerie – grab a wedge of cheese, cut into bite-size pieces on request.
  

• Maison Bergeron – the baguette that will remind you why bread is the most elite carb.
  

• Les Petits Domaines – a small wine shop with affordable bottles to go.
  

• A grocery stop for extras – strawberries, charcuterie, and olives work perfectly.
  

Pro tip: Don’t forget the essentials, a wine opener, cups (if you want) and something to cut cheese with (okay, lets be serious now) if you don’t get it pre-cubed.

Picnic with a View: Port Debilly

From Rue Cler, take a scenic detour past La Fontaine de Mars (a bistro where Barack Obama once dined), then pause at Rue de l’Université for one of those jaw-dropping Eiffel Tower photo ops. Rue de l’Université is our second Eiffel Tower viewpoint and still yet, we haven’t seen the best.

Cross Pont d’Iéna, hang a right, and look for stairs down to the riverside promenade. You can’t miss them. You’ll find that no one else is going down these stairs. Despite this picnic location being all over the internet, people still opt not to visit (beats me!) This area is Port Debilly in Paris’ 8th and is a low-key local favorite. You’ll have front-row Eiffel Tower views without the Champ de Mars crowds. Spread out your feast, sip your wine, and watch boats glide along the Seine. If you’re lucky some fishermen will be magnetizing things out of the Seine, which could make for an interesting afternoon!

Afternoon: Bike to Jardin du Luxembourg

When the picnic winds down, traverse back over the Pont d’Iéna and walk back to the area in front of the Eiffel Tower. Along the street, grab a Lime e-bike. Don’t stress, the route is flat, lined with bike lanes, and most bikes have phone holders to keep your navigation visible. Ride along the Seine toward the Pont des Arts, then dock the bike at any nearby parking. From here, walk through the Left Bank to the Jardin du Luxembourg.

This 400-year-old garden is Paris at its most enchanting: chestnut trees, statues tucked in shady corners, the elegant Medici Fountain, and children sailing wooden boats on the central basin. Pull up a green chair and soak up the spring sunshine.

Evening: St-Germain-des-Prés Wine Crawl

From the gardens, stroll into St-Germain-des-Prés (the 6th, for anyone keeping track of their arrondissements), a neighborhood dripping with charm. Narrow streets, chic boutiques, and historic cafés are everywhere. Stop for a glass at:

• Chez Nous – tiny, cozy, very Parisian.
  
• L’Avant Comptoir du Marché – a standing-room-only wine bar with small plates. The vibes here were lively and fun. The bar feels like a place to meet your friends before a dinner reservation or to end your evening with a night cap.
  

Wander at leisure. Pop into bookstores, admire shop windows, and keep heading north until you reach the Seine. While we have spent the day crossing the Seine, we are going to do it one last time before ending the night on the right bank. Cross the bridge and along the way, you’ll spot Notre-Dame Cathedral. Even post-fire, it’s still breathtaking. Entry is free if you have time to step inside.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Dinner Options: Bistro or Bold

As you trek deeper into the right bank with the brie and bread long gone, its time now to investigate some places for dinner. You can explore anywhere in this general area for dinner, but here are a three solid picks to get you started:

• Le Dénicheur – intimate, with natural wines and small plates.
  

• Poulette – a classic French bistro with all the favorites.
  

• Dalmata – an Instagrammable all-pink pizza joint that’s as fun as it sounds.
  

Final Touch: Sunset on the Seine

This day is full of walking and hopefully your feet aren’t too tired yet. Walk back toward Pont d’Iéna or Pont Alexandre III or really anywhere along the river and watch the sun dip behind the Eiffel Tower. Paris shines brightest during golden hour on the Seine and there are few things more Parisian than this.

Depending on the time of year and the time of sunset, you can watch the sun go down before dinner.

Nightcap

If you’re not ready to call it a night there are a couple more spots I can recommend:

• Bachir – Lebanese-style ice cream topped with pistachios.
  

• Bar Nouveau – inventive cocktails with a stylish vibe and my favorite cocktail bar in Paris.
  

• Folderol – part natural wine bar, part ice cream shop, because why not?
  

Cheers to your perfect spring day in Paris.

The Bottom Line

Paris in spring is pure magic, blooms on every balcony, wine in every glass, and art around every corner. Whether you follow this itinerary to the letter or just take inspiration, you’ll discover why the city keeps pulling us back. One perfect day here reminds you of everything Paris does best: beauty, culture, and a little sparkle of joie de vivre.

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