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While the COVID era of our lives was pretty crap, it offered me the opportunity to slow down my travel and focus on what was right in front of me. Instead of jetting off to an all-inclusive in Mexico or spending two weeks traipsing around Europe, I was grounded, so to speak. This meant exploring my surroundings, driving instead of flying, and appreciating the outdoors.

I’ve taken three national park road trips, so I’m basically an expert at this point. Keep reading to learn how to plan a national park road trip that is equal parts epic and manageable.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps, service can be spotty.
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need (trust me).
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.

Park Access

 Don’t forget that entry to most national parks for four people in one car is about $30. If you plan on visiting more than one park or staying multiple days, you should absolutely opt for the annual pass.

The America the Beautiful Pass costs $80, lasts an entire year, and gives you unlimited access to national parks across the United States. It has paid dividends for me time and time again.

My Road Trips

What was originally supposed to be a trip to Patagonia turned into a two-week American Southwest national park road trip (read about it all here). We started in Las Vegas and visited the following parks (you can find my complete travel guides to some of these below):

• Death Valley National Park
• Grand Canyon National Park
• Mesa Verde National Park
• Capitol Reef National Park
• Arches National Park
• Canyonlands National Park

Four girls, countless miles driven, dozens of miles hiked, one bonus state park, a photo shoot in the salt flats, and more giggles than I could count.

That spring we continued our exploration with a shorter—but still robust—road trip through Texas (which you can read about here). We flew into El Paso and visited Big Bend National Park, explored the caves at Carlsbad Caverns National Park, climbed the highest peak in Texas at Guadalupe Mountains National Park, had a dance party in the desert at White Sands National Park, and wrapped up the trip at Saguaro National Park seeing the famous cacti.

While not nearly as expansive, I also visited almost every national park in Florida the following year. We flew to Miami and, after soaking in the sun and accidentally feeding my phone to what I now refer to as the sewer crocodiles (a phrase I made up after stepping off a curb and watching my phone slip straight from my hand into a giant sewer drain), we began our park tour.

We started at Everglades National Park, followed it with a slightly comical boat ride through Biscayne National Park, and finished the adventure with a ferry ride to Dry Tortugas National Park.

Consider this my résumé for how to plan a national park road trip. Now let me help you plan yours.

Hopes & Dreams

I think the most important step when figuring out how to plan a national park road trip is deciding what your hopes and dreams are. This is a phrase my best friend and I use constantly when planning trips. It’s how we frame everything we want to see, eat, accomplish, or experience.

Yes, I’ve had friends roll their eyes when I ask the question. But it genuinely captures what matters: what do you want to get out of this trip, and how do we design an itinerary that makes that happen?

Do you want to see the bottom of the Grand Canyon? Visit the most remote national park in the U.S.? Start checking parks off a list in a quest to visit them all? Are you craving beautiful scenic drives or rugged multi-day hikes? Something close to a city, or completely off the grid?

The beauty of national parks is that there is truly an experience for everyone. Once you know what you want, it becomes much easier to start shaping the trip.

Time

The next question when planning a national park road trip is how much time you actually have.

Are you renting a van for a month and planning to explore every nook and cranny? Or do you have a long weekend where you want to see as much of one park as possible? Can you fly to a starting point, or do you need to begin driving from where you live?

Once you’ve chosen your starting point, you also need to decide how much time you’re comfortable spending in the car each day. Is five hours too much? Would you rather visit fewer parks but spend less time driving? Or are you totally fine with a longer drive if it means seeing something incredible?

Travel time between parks is important, but so is the commute once you’re there, which we’ll talk about more later.

I’ve visited three national parks in three days, I’ve seen everything I wanted in one park in a single day, and also felt like I could easily spend more time somewhere like Arches even after multiple visits. It really comes down to personal preference, PTO, budget, and your tolerance for long drives.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Proximity

Every good road trip is built on proximity. You probably aren’t going to visit Dry Tortugas in the Florida Keys and then swing over to Zion National Park on the same trip.

Yes, this sounds obvious, but choosing parks close to each other is how you maximize a national park road trip. Even visiting all the national parks in Florida still requires several hours of driving.

When you’re deciding which parks to visit together, think about regional clusters. A few ideas to get you started:

• Alaska parks
• Florida parks: Everglades, Dry Tortugas, Biscayne
• Utah parks: Zion, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, Arches
• Northern California parks: Redwood, Kings Canyon, Sequoia
• Pacific Northwest parks: Crater Lake, Mount Rainier, Olympic, North Cascades

When to Go

I have a hard time recommending travel outside of spring and fall. In my opinion, those seasons are the sweet spot for exploring almost anywhere and that includes national parks.

My first national park road trip happened in November. It was perfect for the Grand Canyon, where I was hiking in a T-shirt by noon, but I also accidentally smoked us out of our yurt trying to keep warm at night (you can read all about that here).

Timing becomes even more important if you plan on camping or backpacking. Trailheads may be closed due to snow or seasonal conditions. For example, Highway 20 in Washington doesn’t reopen until April or May, which makes visiting North Cascades National Park difficult outside of summer.

While I don’t love traveling during June, July, or August, sometimes you just have to make it work. If that’s the case, avoid places with extreme weather. Visiting Death Valley in July, for example, would be a nightmare.

Camping Accommodations

If you’re feeling adventurous and planning to visit multiple national parks over an extended period, you might consider renting a camper van or motorhome. These can be pricey, but they come with everything you need: a kitchenette, a place to sleep, sometimes even a bathroom and shower.

Traveling this way opens up campground options within the parks themselves.

If you’re starting the road trip from home, you can also bring your own camping gear. This significantly lowers accommodation costs and gives you more flexibility.

One thing to keep in mind with camping is reservations. Some campgrounds take bookings, while others are first-come, first-served. During peak summer season, competition can be intense. Camping in the Pacific Northwest is particularly cutthroat, I’ve learned the hard way that even when you think it won’t be busy, it absolutely will be.

Finally, there is often BLM land available near parks. Around Capitol Reef, for example, there are many free first-come-first-serve camping areas on BLM land. If you go this route, remember to pack everything out, leave no trace, and respect the landscape (a rule we should all be practicing regardless of where we go !!).

Planning Your Stay

If you’re like me and will camp if necessary but still prefer a roof and a bed each night, don’t worry, there are plenty of options.

Towns surrounding national parks often have a surprising number of Airbnbs specifically catering to park visitors. Many even include maps, hiking suggestions, and local restaurant recommendations.

That said, proximity can be tricky.

When visiting North Cascades National Park, we stayed outside the town of Winthrop in a beautiful cabin. It was cozy and scenic, but hiking Cascade Pass required nearly three hours of driving each way, including about an hour on a gravel road leading to the trailhead.

During our trip to Big Bend National Park, we stayed in the town of Alpine and drove an hour just to reach the park entrance each day. From there, reaching hikes like Santa Elena Canyon required even more driving inside the park.

When choosing accommodations, consider the following:

How many days you plan to spend in the park. If you’re just passing through, a longer commute may be fine. If you’re staying several days, it might get old quickly.

• Use Google Maps to estimate drive times, not just to the visitor center, but to the actual hikes you want to do.
• Be honest with yourself about early mornings. Are you really going to wake up at 4 a.m. to drive three hours to a trailhead?
• If you can’t find clear directions online, contact the park’s visitor center. Rangers are some of the most helpful people in the world and are always happy to give advice.
• And finally, AllTrails is your best friend when planning hikes. Trail descriptions, closures, conditions, and trailhead details are all there, which means fewer surprises when you start your drive down that inevitable gravel road.

Activities

Hiking is usually the main activity for me in national parks, but if you’re more adventurous, the options are endless. Rock climbing, cycling, backpacking, canyoneering, remote backcountry hikes, there is truly something for everyone.

If you’re planning to do multiple hikes in one day, read the trail descriptions carefully on AllTrails or the national park website to estimate how long they will realistically take.

For certain activities, you’ll also want to reserve gear ahead of time. For example, if you plan to hike the Narrows in Zion, stop by Zion Outfitters the afternoon before to get fitted for shoes, socks, and waders. They allow early pickup the day before your hike, which lets you start whenever you want instead of waiting for the shop to open.

Add Ons

Don’t miss the chance to explore nearby destinations during your national park road trip. While the parks are the main attraction, you’ll often pass incredible places along the way.

During our Texas road trip we stopped in the quirky art town of Marfa (read all about what to do in Marfa here). On our Southwest road trip we visited Dead Horse Point State Park and hiked there as well. We ended that trip in the Bonneville Salt Flats outside Salt Lake City, where we made some of the most memorable moments of the entire adventure.

Enjoying the journey and what’s along the way is just as important as reaching the summit.

The Bottom Line

National parks are truly one of the greatest treasures in the United States, and I hope everyone gets the chance to visit at least one in their lifetime.

Whether your goal is to check every park off your list or simply see what America has to offer, learning how to plan a national park road trip is absolutely worth the time and effort it takes.

And if you need help planning your national park itinerary, send me an email or slide into my DMs at @updatelater on Instagram.

Happy trails.

The post How to Plan an Epic National Park Road Trip appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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If you didn’t know to look for it, you’d never stumble upon Mesa Verde. Tucked outside of Cortez, Colorado, this gem of a park is full of ancient history, jaw-dropping cliff dwellings, and some surprisingly accessible hiking trails. I first visited Mesa Verde during a two-week National Park road trip, and it immediately became one of my favorite stops. Here’s everything you need to know, from cliff dwellings to hiking trails to where to stay, so you can plan your perfect Mesa Verde adventure.

About Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde sits near Mancos, Colorado, west of Durango and just a stone’s throw from the Four Corners. What makes this park unlike any other is its ancient pueblos. For centuries, Ancestral Pueblo people built thriving communities on the mesas and, later, directly into the cliffs themselves. These dwellings range from single storage rooms to complexes with over 150 rooms. And the best part? You can still visit many of them today.

Some of these dwellings are more than 1,400 years old. Standing before them, you can almost picture daily life: families cooking, artisans carving, kids darting between walls. It’s living history in the truest sense.

Most visitors can see the highlights in one day, but if you want to do multiple hikes and tours, plan for two to three days.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps—service is spotty at best.
  
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
  
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need.
  
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
  
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
  
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.
  

Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

How to Get There

Mesa Verde is best as part of a Southwest National Park road trip or if you are visiting the four corners or want to make the trek while visiting Colorado. If you’re flying, here are your airport options:

• Cortez Airport (CEZ): ~1 hour to the park.
  
• Durango Airport (DRO): ~1.5 hours.
  
• Albuquerque (ABQ): ~4.5 hours.
  
• Denver (DEN): ~6 hours.
  

FYI: once you reach the entrance, you’ll still have about a 45-minute winding drive before hitting the first cliff dwellings. You will definitely want to factor in this drive when making your plans for the days and when picking accommodations options. 

Where to Stay

Far View Lodge

• Season dependent. 
• This beautiful hotel resides in the middle of the park. You can’t find a more convenient location. It is about a 30 minute drive from the park entrance and makes a great home base for exploring the park over a couple of days. This hotel is only open from April to October. Please check the website for seasonal prices. 

Morefield Campground

• $38-$51
• This expansive campground is located just 4 miles outside of the park. It has plenty of RV spots and tent camping options, but it is recommended to reserve in advance. This campground is nestled in a scenic canyon where wild deer and turkeys roam. The campground is only open from April to October. You’ll find a fire pit, barbecue, gravel tent pad and picnic table at each spot. Additionally there is a small camp store for firewood and other bits and bobs as well as full bathroom services nearby. 

Cortez Retreat

• $175/night. 
• This beautiful property sits outside of the main town of Cortez. What you lack in convenience to the town you make up for in beauty. The house accommodates up to 6 guests and has a fully equipped kitchen and hot tub. This would be a perfect spot for a family, with tons of outdoor space to run around. 

Mountain View Escape

• $170/night. 
• The Mountain View Escape is a large cabin that sits outside of the main town of Cortez. Its modern amenities and decor make it a perfect spot for those who want to relax and stay in a house with updated features. But the best part is the view form the deck, over looking the never ending prairie and mountains in the distance. 

Single Family Home

• $110/night.
• This house is conveniently located just blocks off of the main street in Cortez. It just nearby to the Carpenter Nature Preserve that has trails for hiking and biking. The house has a driveway for parking convenience, two bedroom and large backyard and fire pit. 

Honorable Mentions

There are a handful of hotels in Cortez itself, but I found the AirBnbs a better bargain. If you are staying a short time or don’t mind more dated accommodations check out these hotels. 

• Retro Inn Mesa Verde (my favorite option!)
• Hampton Inn Mesa Verde
• Holiday Inn Express Mesa Verde

Park Access + Hot Tips

Don’t forget that entry to the park for 4 people/1 car is $30. If you plan on visiting more than 1 day or multiple national parks during the year you should opt for the year long pass. It has paid dividends for me time and time again. The America the Beautiful pass is $80, lasts for an entire year and has unlimited park access. Grab yours here. 

If you’re coming from certain directions, don’t miss the Four Corners Monument, the exact spot where Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico meet. It’s only 40 minutes from Cortez, so it’s a fun extra stop.

Things to Do

Guided Tour

The National Park service provides a guided tour of the Cliff Dwellings that allow you to be boots on the ground in and near the actual dwellings themself. It is such an incredible opportunity to see the hard work of the Ancestral Pueblo people up close and personal. You cannot enter the cliff dwellings (but can see them from afar, keep reading!) without taking this guided tour. There are some caveats for getting this booked. 

• Tours are provided May-October. 
• Create an account at recreation.gov to expedite your tour booking process, as they fill up quickly. 
• Reservations open 2 weeks in advance at 8:00 am MDT. 
• Once you have your tickets, they will be digital only. Make sure to screen shot or have them downloaded/saved on your phone as service in the park is hit or miss. 
• If you aren’t able to obtain tickets, keep an eye on the dates you arrive as people cancel/reschedule and those tickets become available again.

Cliff Palace Loop Drive

A 6-mile scenic loop that delivers the best views of multiple cliff dwellings from overlooks. Besides the guided tour, this is my top choice of activities to accomplish while at the park. Must-see stops:

• Cliff Palace Overlook (my personal favorite)
  
• Cliff Canyon Overlook
  
• House of Many Windows Overlook
  
• Hemenway House Overlook
  
• Soda Canyon Overlook Trail (best view of Balcony House)
  

Mesa Top Loop Road

Another 6-mile loop, especially great for accessibility. Stops include:

• Pit House
  
• Navajo Canyon View
  
• Square Tower House
  
• Oak Tree House
  
• Sun Point View (Cliff Palace)
  
• Sun Temple
  

Stargazing

Mesa Verde is an International Dark Sky Park, so the stars here are unreal. On Wednesday nights, rangers host stargazing talks at the amphitheater, complete with telescopes and laser pointers. Bring a red light flashlight and warm clothes.

Hikes

The park is split up into 3 separate areas: Morefield Canyon, Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa. You can find hikes in all 3 parts of the park ranging from little half mile quickies to more strenuous outings. Here are some recommended hikes from each section. 

Morefield Canyon

Point Lookout Trail

• 2.2 miles, + 400 feet elevation
• This hike takes you the top of point Lookout, from here you will have views of the San Juan and La Plata Mountains as well as the Mancos and Montezuma Valleys. A beautiful hike with an even better view point. 

Prater Ridge Trail

• 7.8 miles roundtrip. North loop 5.7 miles, South loop 4.6 miles, +675 feet. 
• Prater Ridge has a choose your own adventure vibe. You start by hiking the ridge itself and can follow the North loop to follow the mesa’s edge looking out over Montezuma Valley or the south loop which overlooks Prater and Morefield Canyons. 

Chapin Mesa

Petroglyph Point Trail

• 2.4 miles, + 227 feet. 
• If there is one hike you do while in Mesa Verde NP this is the one. You get iconic viewpoints of Navajo and Spruce Canyon and on top of that you can see an ancient petroglyph panel that is really quite impressive. This hike does include a little rock scrambling and narrow passage ways, but is generally easy to complete. 

Spruce Canyon Trail

• 2.4 miles, +558 feet.
• This hike takes you down into Spruce Canyon and back out again. While it is a beautiful hike amongst the long grasses and plants of the canyon, some find it not terribly scenic. However, if you are doing the Petroglpyh trail, you can combine both hikes. Here is how:
  • Turn left at the Spruce Tree House Overlook and hike around the head the canyon, following the Petroglyph trail in reverse.
  • When you arrive at the trail junction with Spruce Canyon Trail, take a left. 

Wetherill Mesa

Opt for the guided tour while in this part of the park. See above for booking. 

Nordenskiold Site No. 16 Trail

• 2 miles, +95 feet
• This hike is named for Swedish scholar Gustaf Nordenskiöld who excavated these dwellings in 1891. This easy hike looks off cliff dwellings in Rock Canyon and is comprised of about 50 rooms. 

The Bottom Line

Mesa Verde National Park might be a little out of the way, but it’s absolutely worth the journey. With its unique cliff dwellings, scenic drives, stargazing, and diverse hikes, it’s unlike any other park in the U.S. If you’re planning a National Park road trip, or just want to experience living history in the American Southwest, add Mesa Verde to your list.

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post Mesa Verde National Park: A Complete Travel Guide appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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In 2020, when the world shut down during the Coronavirus pandemic, my girlfriends and I needed an escape. Originally, we had planned a two-week backpacking trip through Patagonia (which we did up taking and you can read about here! ), but international restrictions pushed us to stay stateside. Instead, we mapped out a two-week National Park road trip through the American Southwest.

Minimal flying, lots of driving, and six incredible parks later, it turned out to be exactly what we needed. We started in Death Valley, continued to the Grand Canyon, and then made stops at Petrified Forest, Capitol Reef, Mesa Verde, Arches, Canyonlands, and finally the Bonneville Salt Flats outside Salt Lake City.

This post, however, is not just a trip recap. It’s the story of our time at the Grand Canyon, a rim-to-river hike, and what turned out to be a comedy of errors in our glamping accommodations.

Hiking the Grand Canyon

We arrived at the Grand Canyon around 5 pm, just in time for sunset at the Drive 11 viewpoint. Breathtaking doesn’t even begin to describe it. We spent our evening here admiring how the canyon was lighting up golden in the evening light and watched as the cotton candy sky turned from pink to purple. We were mesmerized thinking about how we would be at the bottom of the canyon the next day, and for some reason not at all intimidated that we had to climb out of that canyon too.

Originally, we had planned to do a shorter hike, like Plateau Point via Bright Angel  or South Kaibob to Skeleton Point. But in classic overconfident fashion, we thought, “Why not go all in?”

So we set out to hike from South Kaibab down to Phantom Ranch and back up via Bright Angel Trail, a rim-to-river-to-rim adventure. It was one of the three hardest hikes I’ve ever done, but also one of the most rewarding.

Looking back, we were young and unprepared. No hiking poles, no electrolytes, and not nearly enough water. Reviews will now tell you how critical those things are, and they’re right. I remember looking up, late into the hike when I was out of water and my apple watch had died, and thought “surely I don’t have to climb to the edge up there??” Well, surely, I was wrong. The rim is the edge and you’re not out of the canyon until you reach it. Somehow, we survived (some of us even thrived), and the memory is one I’ll never forget.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Accommodation Goals

At some point in the planning process, we decided we wanted to indulge in a glamping experience. But because some of the National Parks we were visiting were a bit remote we decided that the Grand Canyon was probably our best option. We thought about how cool we would be versus staying with all the other hikers in the hotels near the park entrance. Now, these were not Under Canvas tents FYI (the best for glamping!) , but Yurts found on AirBnb. And actually this story is no shade to them and all shade to us. We had 2 separate yurts, so I was bunking with my bestie Lindsey. 

Night One: The “Murderer”

After sunset at the canyon, we drove off-road through a dark field to find the yurts. While the sunset was beautiful, we did have regrets as we were off-roading in the pitch black, with only a distant lit up cabin guiding our way. We were able to identify our yurts and discovered we were a bit farther apart than we thought we would be. With our plans in place and meeting time set Lindsey and I traversed the makeshift roads over to our yurt after dropping the other gals off.

Once settled, we were chatting in bed when we heard scratching on the “walls”. Naturally, as Millennial women, and true crime junkies, our first thought was “murderer.” We let the sound go and thought weird, maybe it was the wind, or the yurt? But the scratching kept coming. We peaked outside to our friends across the way and the lights were off. We contemplated waking them up, but as friends it was our duty to protect the others from the murderer.

Our Heroes

Armed with nothing but car keys and our phones, we messaged the host via the Airbnb app.

“Hey, we are hearing some weird noises at our yurt, are there people walking around here at night?”, we asked innocently.

Luckily, it wasn’t too late so we received a swift response from the host. She said she would come check it out, meanwhile we were crossing our fingers that she brought mace or a knife with her.

We diligently watched the tent for shadows outside and were trying to make a plan before our knight and shining armor (a woman and her teenage daughter) arrived. They quickly came to check… only to find the culprit was a cow brushing against the yurt. The owner of the neighboring land had cows who were known to wander. Not exactly a murderer, but enough to keep us on edge the rest of the night.

Were we over dramatic? Maybe. But was it terrifying in the moment, yes.

Night Two: The Smoke Show

The second day commences and we do a beautiful, all day, thigh burning, never ending hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back out. I spent last few miles of the hike with a group of girls (my friends were a bit faster than me), as we stopped for a break at about every other switchback. COVID be damned, I was just happy to find others struggling as much as I was.

When we arrived back at our yurts, desperately needing sleep and comfort, we decided to light the wood stove for warmth (it was November after all). The yurt had a wood stove and a small propane space heater. The night before had not been as cold, but we were expecting a windy night and after a long day we wanted some warmth for our already sore muscles.

We filled the stove with wood and got the fire blazing. We thought “lets make a big one, so that it will be warm and it will last all night.” Well we did that! Within minutes of lights out and an attempt at sleep, my eyes started burning, and my friend began coughing. We flipped the lights on to discover the yurt was filled with smoke.

Rectifying our Mistake

Turns out, the stove pipe wasn’t sealed correctly. Thus the smoke was billowing into the yurt instead of venting outside. In a matter of minutes our beautiful, warm, blazing fire was actually trying to suffocate us slowly with thick, black smoke.

We snuffed the fire immediately and began to empty the yurt of smoke and all the warmth we had procured. We opened all our doors and windows to air the yurt out. This was my personal nightmare, as I hate, hate, hate when I smell of campfire smoke. So one of my main priorities was getting all of our stuff outside to air out before the smoke had time to set into every article of clothing I would wear for the next week.

With our warmth gone and the wind starting to pick up, we had to rely on the small propane heater for the rest of the night. Not exactly the cozy glamping evening we envisioned. Add that on to sore muscles, exhaustion and an early wake up call to drive to the next park, yikes. 

Insult to Injury

Remember how I said we knew it was going to be a windy night? Well, after the task of fixing our fire mistakes, we then had the weather to contest with. As soon as we started to doze off the wind started making itself known. The canvas sides of our yurt were flapping excessively with each blow of the wind. We were in a large field, with no trees or large rocks to protect our camps.

And unfortunately, I am a very light sleeper. But to be honest, you could be a heavy sleeper and probably would have still suffered the tent flapping like we did. So after smoking ourselves out and the DOMS turning out to not be so delayed, we also spent all night tossing and turning. Covering our head with pillows and sweatshirt hoods, pulling our beanies down over our eyes and ears to lessen the constant flap of the yurt.

I count this as one of the worst nights of sleep I have ever had.

Lessons Learned from Our Grand Canyon Yurt Stay

• Don’t panic, scratching on the tent is probably not a murderer (but stay alert).
  

• If you want a seamless glamping experience, book with Under Canvas or another reputable provider. Again, no shade to the owner of these yurts, these were mostly user errors and weather which is outside of their control.
  

• Always test your wood stove with a small fire before committing to a roaring blaze.
  

• Bring humor with you, these kinds of mishaps turn into the best stories later.

The Bottom Line

Our Grand Canyon trip was equal parts exhausting, hilarious, and unforgettable. Between the thigh-burning rim-to-river hike and the comedy of errors at our Airbnb yurt, it was an adventure that made us laugh for years to come.

If you want to read more about our COVID years National Park roadtrips you can find them here:

1. American Southwest National Park Roadtrip
2. Texas to Arizona National Park Roadtrip

Pin this post for your next trip! ↓

The post Grand Canyon Glamping Gone Wrong (What I’d Never Do Again) appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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About Death Valley

Death Valley is one of the hottest places in the United States, not just among national parks, but anywhere in the country. In summer, temperatures regularly soar past 115°F. Yet this desert is also a land of opposites. When rain does fall, the cracked earth blooms into wildflowers. Winter can dust the Panamint Range with snow while the basin below sits hundreds of feet beneath sea level.

I visited Death Valley National Park as the very first stop on a two-week National Park road trip. Starting here set the tone for the trip in the best way. The landscapes shocked me, shimmering salt flats, jagged salt spires that look otherworldly, hidden waterfalls tucked into canyons, and soft golden dunes.

This is not a one-day park. Because the sights are spread out and many of the accommodations are outside the park boundaries, you need at least three days to cover the highlights without feeling rushed. Honestly, you could easily spend a week here and still discover new corners while exploring Death Valley National Park.

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps—service is spotty at best.
  
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike.
  
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need (trust me).
  
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
  
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
  
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.

FYI: Death Valley is quite remote. There is nearly no cell phone service in the park and any help may be hours away. Please be prepared with plenty of water, food and a spare tire. It is recommended to bring 2 spare tires if you are traveling on any of the backroads. 

How to Get to Death Valley

Death Valley straddles the California–Nevada border. While most of the park is in California, the easiest access is from Nevada.

The most logical airport is Las Vegas (LAS), about a two-hour drive to the park depending on which entrance you use.

• While there are a number of unpaved roads entering the park, these are the paved roads used to access Death Valley. 

Where to Stay in Death Valley

Accommodations inside the park are limited and can be pricey during peak season. Staying within the park cuts down on driving time, but nearby towns can also make great bases.

 Otherwise here is a breakdown of access time from a couple nearby towns. 

• Beatty, Nevada: about 45 minutes from Furnace Creek. 
• Parumph, Nevada: about 1.5 hours from Furnace Creek.
• Lone Pine, California: about 1 hour 45 minutes from Furnace Creek. 

In Park Lodging

Stovepipe Wells Village

• About $180/night
• This hotel has both hotel accommodations and full RV hookups for those traveling that route. They have two onsite restaurants, a little shop and even a pool to cool off after a hot day of hiking. Located in the Stovepipe Wells area, the in park accommodations are a great jumping off point for exploring the park. Fuel is available here. 

The Inn at Death Valley

• About $450-$550/night. 
• This gorgeous hotel is located near Furnace Creek and provides luxury accommodations while staying in Death Valley. They have a number of dining options, pool, spa and golf course. A perfect place to relax after a day of hiking in the desert. 

The Ranch at Death Valley

• About $200/night. 
• This hotel is located just down the road from its sister hotel The Inn at Death Valley. Full of amenities the Ranch has a pool, tennis courts, golf course and spa. Furthermore, this is a great spot for families as they have small casitas and cottages to accommodate groups. Finally, there are onsite campgrounds you can book as well. 

Panamint Springs Resort

• $15-$300/night depending on accommodations. 
• Panamint Springs Resort is a great stop with a multitude of options for accommodations and price ranges. They have camping sites, tents, glamping tents, dry RV spots, RV spots with hookups, hotel rooms, cabins and even bunk rooms. Located conveniently near Panamint Springs, this is a great option if you are approaching the park from the west. Fuel is available here. 

Camping in Death Valley

Death Valley has both developed and primitive campgrounds. Conditions vary widely, so always check closures on the NPS site before heading out.

• Furnace Creek Campgrounds: Only site with reservations, though limited in summer.
  
• Texas Springs: Each site has a picnic table and fire grate.
  
• Sunset Campground: Large, open campground; no fires allowed.
  
• Wildrose Campground: At 4,100 feet in the Panamint Mountains, prone to strong winds.
  
• Mesquite Spring Campground: At 1,800 feet, near Scotty’s Castle Road, with fire grates and picnic tables.

Primitive Campgrounds (all require high-clearance vehicles; some 4×4 only):

• Thorndike: forested, 7,400 feet.
• Mahogany Flat: forest views at 8,300 feet.
• Eureka Dunes: at the base of giant sand dunes. 
• Homestake: rugged, remote.
• Saline Valley: famous for its hot spring, but tough to reach.

Staying Outside the Park

Beatty, Nevada (45 minutes to Furnace Creek) is my personal favorite. Wild donkeys roam the streets, there’s a small but fun local bar, and it makes a charming home base. I stayed in a cozy cabin from Airbnb here, which made mornings and evenings extra memorable.

Other options:

• Pahrump, NV – About 1.5 hours away.
  
• Lone Pine, CA – Roughly 1 hour 45 minutes away, great if you’re also planning a Mount Whitney or Alabama Hills detour.

Park Access

Don’t forget that entry to the park for 4 people/1 car is $30. If you plan on visiting more than 1 day or multiple national parks during the year you must opt for the year long pass. It has paid dividends for me time and time again. The American the Beautiful pass is $80, lasts for an entire year and has unlimited park access. Grab yours here. 

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Things to do

Artists Palette 

It is nearly impossible to choose one place I loved the most in Death Valley National Park, but the Artists Palette was definitely near the top. You can explore this area via the 9 mile Artists Drive Scenic Loop. You’ll see how volcanic deposits have created a multitude of colors across the landscape. Make sure to hop out of the car and explore around the hills, when you’re done you’ll enjoy the remaining drive through the gorgeous loop. 

Ubehebe Crater

Located in the northern part of the park, you can see this crater. Known as a Maar volcano, the crater was created when lava came in contact with ground water, which created steam and enough pressure to blow through the earth above. This is the largest of the craters in this crater field and is a sight to behold.

Badwater Basin

This is the lowest point in continental North America at 282 feet below sea level. It is a stark difference in view compared to the rest of the beige and gold colored park. Home to the former Lake Manly, over the years its slowly accumulated sediment and salt and the lake eventually ceased to exist in that form. Today we can now see and traipse over the concentrated salt deposits. 

Wildrose Charcoal Kilns

Ten beehive-shaped kilns built in the 1870s to produce charcoal for silver mining. They’re remarkably well-preserved and make for an eerie, photogenic stop. 

Devils Golfcourse

This surreal landscape was named for its craggy, sharp salt spires that take up the entire space. Because “only the Devil can play golf here”. Another monument to the diversity of Death Valley National Park, this unique type of salt is incredible to see up close and personal. While there isn’t much to do here and it is certainly difficult to walk along, it is absolutely worth stopping by.

Viewpoints

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Golden dunes right next to the road. Hike out far enough to leave the crowds behind, then watch the sunset paint the sand in soft oranges and pinks. Cartwheels optional but encouraged.

Dantes View

Rising up to 5,575 feet this is an opportune spot to watch the sunrise or the sunset and is a popular stop for photographers. Sitting above Badwater Basin and along the ridge of the Black Mountains, it’s truly a spectacular sight.

 Zabriskie Point

Named for Christian Zabriskie, a prominent person of the Pacific Coast Borax Company (lol), this is a popular spot to enjoy the incredible views. From this viewpoint you will see the striped hills and badlands below. 

Father Crowley Vista Point

Named after a priest who often stopped to admire the views between his home of Lone Pine and Death Valley, he was known as the Desert Padre. 

Stargazing

Death Valley National Park has been dubbed part of the International Dark Sky Park. On a moonless night, the Milky Way blazes across the sky. Bring a red flashlight to preserve your night vision.

Hikes

There are a number of great hikes throughout the park and some for all levels. There are also hikes that have no exact marked path and are trail-less so to speak. Feel free to adventure to those, but with caution and a compass. 

Natural Bridge 

• 1 mile and 86 feet of gain. 
• This is a quick hike with negligible gain. On this short hike you’ll see a rock formed natural bridge and just beyond is a dry waterfall. 

Darwin Falls

• 7 miles and 450 feet of gain. 
• This is by far and away the best hike in Death Valley National Park. A rocky trail turns foresty (yes a word) and a bit wild as you continue along this relatively flat path. You’ll see sneak peaks of water and algae along the way before you end at a small oasis and waterfall. A stark difference from the desert around you, this water feature and rocky waterfall feels like you have been transported to Neverland. 

Golden Canyon

• This trail gives you a choice of your own adventure. You can complete one portion of the hike or combine them to make it longer.
  • Badlands loop: 2.7 miles and 535 feet. This starts at Zabriskie Point and loops through the badlands. 
  • *Golden Canyon to Red Cathedral: 3 miles and 577 feet of gain. this was my favorite hike of the three. The Red Cathedral is a truly jaw dropping end point to this hike between golden walls and up rocky corridors. 
  • Gower Gulch Loop: 4.3 miles and 850 feet of gain. As you make your way through narrow canyons, you’ll have the opportunity to do a little rock scrambling before eventually finding the gulch. 

Mosaic Canyon

• 4 miles and 1,200 feet of gain
• To complete this hike you’ll pass through 3 narrow canyons, climb over a giant boulder jam to find your trail and end at a rock amphitheater. Keep an eye out for the mosaic rocks that give the canyon its name. 

Wildrose Peak

• 8.4 miles, 2200 feet of gain. 
• This hike starts at the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns (two for one!) and ends on a peak overlooking Death Valley. The hiking trail winds through a forest before the switchbacks take you up the peak. 

Hikes with Unmarked Routes

• Desolation Canyon
• Willow Canyon
• Panamint Dunes
• Little Bridge Canyon
• Sidewinder Canyon
• Fall Canyon
• Corkscrew Peak
• Telescope Peak 

Backpacking

Backpacking here is for the bold. Trails are often unmarked, water is scarce, and the solitude is profound. Here is a list of all the backpacking options you can explore. FYI: most of these require high clearance vehicles and some 4×4 capable. 

• Bighorn Gorge
• Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop: permit required
• Fall Canyon
• Red Empitheatre
• Hungry Bill’s Ranch
• Indian Pass
• Owlshead Mountains
• Panamint Dunes
• Surprise Canyon
• Telescope Peak
• Titanothere Canyon

Final Tip

After a long day of heat, dust, and rock scrambling, reward yourself with a stop at The Inn at Death Valley. Sit in the cool, shaded lobby and order a prickly pear margarita. It might be the best cocktail you’ll ever have, equal parts refreshing and life-changing after a desert hike. 

The Bottom Line

Death Valley is a park of extremes, contradictions, and unforgettable experiences. From the lowest basin to snow-capped peaks, from fiery sunsets to star-filled nights, it’s a place that challenges you and rewards you in equal measure.

Spend at least three days here if you can. You’ll leave dusty, tired, and completely awed by the beauty of this desert.

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There comes a time in every traveler’s life when the universe gently reminds you that you are not, in fact, invincible. Welcome to the humbling of your friendly, neighborhood travel expert. As someone who usually plans every detail and prides herself on being prepared, it was impressive how many ways I managed to mess up one single morning visit to Haleakalā National Park. If you’re searching for Haleakalā sunrise tips, let my missteps guide you.

Before I embarrass myself thoroughly, let’s set the scene. Four besties. One week in Maui. Endless sunshine, poke bowls, laughs and adventure. Our friends Chris and Nicole are the kind of travel buddies that make even grocery runs fun. Normally Chris and I tag-team the planning, but for this particular mission, I took full control. General of the Sunrise Operation.

The mission: wake up at 2 a.m., drive 90 minutes up a volcano, reach 10,000 feet and watch the world wake up.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Mission: Accomplished

When we were in Maui there wer still remnants of COVID restrictions and Hawaii was a place that was easy to get to but didn’t have the difficulties and risk of international travel. So while grabbing these sunrise reservations may be easier now, back then they were absolutely cutthroat.

We had four separate phones get online as soon as the reservations opened for the next day and for 6 days, we failed. Until our last chance, and boom, we got lucky. We managed to snag sunrise reservation tickets for our final day on Maui. I really think it was my expertly timed “refresh” button clicking that did the trick, but I digress.

We were excited, we were optimistic, we were slightly delusional.

Could anything possibly go wrong?

Read on to find out.

Why Haleakalā National Park Belongs on Your Maui Itinerary

Before I tell you how I failed spectacularly, let me tell you why Haleakalā National Park is worth your time no matter what. Located on Maui, the park is split into two regions: the Summit District and the Kīpahulu District. Both are wildly different and offer experiences you can’t find anywhere else in Hawaii.

Kīpahulu District

The Kīpahulu side is lush and dramatic. The famous Pipiwai Trail takes you past Makahiku Falls, through a towering Bamboo Forest and ends at the 400 foot Waimoku Falls. There are several giant banyan trees that make you feel like you’re stepping into a fantasy book.

Summit District

This is where you’ll witness that bucket list Haleakalā sunrise. The landscape feels otherworldly with shifting colors, volcanic rock and panoramic crater views. Most visitors come for sunrise, but there are gorgeous trails and viewpoints worth exploring after the main event.

If you’re here for Haleakalā sunrise tips, trust me, you want to read these three.

1. Go To Bed Early (And Hydrate)

Let me begin with the most obvious and most ignored piece of advice. Go to bed early. Hydrate. Do basic human things.

We did not.

After nearly a week in Hawaii with friends, we realized one tragic truth: our overambitious Costco liquor haul was not going to drink itself. So instead of going to bed early for our painful 2 a.m. wake-up, we made mudslides until midnight.

Predictably, our alarms felt like personal attacks. Hydration was lacking. Regrets were immediate.

So here is the first and most important of my Haleakalā sunrise tips: hydrate like it’s your job and go to sleep early. Your future self will thank you when you aren’t dragging your soul out of bed before sunrise.

2. Don’t Rush the Sunrise Experience

Most people wake up early, race to the summit, watch the sunrise and immediately head back down once their fingers go numb. And while that’s understandable (and definitely what my group did), you can make the entire morning so much better.

If I could redo the day, I would:

• bring a breakfast picnic
• pack hot coffee in a thermos
• stay after sunrise and hike a little
• explore Red Hill
• take advantage of being above the clouds

The drive itself is beautiful. From Kihei or Lahaina, it takes about 90 minutes on winding mountain roads, and you get to watch the stars fade as you climb into the darkness. Instead of heading back down right after sunrise, stay awhile. Make it a whole morning. Then nap on the beach later like the responsible adult you are.

3. Dress For 10,000 Feet

This mistake? Painful. Literally.

Just because you’ve been in a swimsuit all week does not mean you can roll up to a 10,000 foot mountain summit in a sweatshirt. I knew it would be cold. I did. As my puffy coat was hovering over my suitcase in the bring or leave pile. But I convinced myself it “couldn’t be that cold.” And frankly, my suitcase could not accommodate a puffy jacket.

Reader, it was that cold.

Meanwhile, do you know what we did bring? Inflatable stand-up paddleboards. Full size SUPs. Because Alaska Airlines lets you check a free bag and we thought this was the time for aquatics.

I absolutely had space for a jacket. Or even a warm layer. Instead, I wrapped myself in a hotel blanket and hid behind a rock like a cold, confused burrito. The wind chill was real. My toes were questioning all my life decisions.

If you take only one thing from these Haleakalā sunrise tips, let it be this: bring layers. Real layers. Jacket, gloves, beanie. Do not underestimate the summit. And honestly, bring the hotel blankets too, because those were lifesavers.

The Sunrise Itself

Even with the missteps, the sunrise was magic. The sky shifted through purples, oranges and golds. Clouds stretched out like rolling waves. The whole crater glowed. It felt ancient, spiritual and completely worth the struggle. You really are watching the island breathe.

The feeling of sitting above the island while the rest of Maui was waking up is something I won’t forget.

No matter how cold or sleep-deprived you are, that moment stays with you.

The Bottom Line

Haleakalā National Park is one of the most incredible places to visit in Hawaii, and with a little preparation, you can make the experience smooth, warm and unforgettable. Hydrate, rest, bring layers and treat the sunrise like a full adventure, not a quick stop. If you are looking for more Maui content, check out my post on my absolute favorite beaches in Maui.

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The post The 3 Mistakes I Made Visiting Haleakalā National Park (So You Don’t) appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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Would it shock you, if I said that North Cascades National Park is in the top ten of the LEAST visited National Parks in the United States? Somehow this beautiful place nestled in the Cascade Mountains, draws less visitors per year than most other parks. However, if you make the time to visit this stunning area, you will not be disappointed.

I am going to give an overview of NCNP, including hikes, best places to stay and pitfalls to avoid. I hope you enjoy this post, as I am truly in bliss reliving my adventures in this park!

National Park Musts

Before we jump in, a quick PSA:

• Download offline maps, service is spotty at best
  
• Tell someone your plans and check in after your hike
  
• Carry more water than you think you’ll need (trust me)
  
• Pack salty + protein snacks.
  
• Always stay on the trail to protect the landscape.
  
• Absolutely no smoking in or near the park.

Park Access

Don’t forget that entry to the park for 4 people/1 car is $30. If you plan on visiting more than 1 day or multiple national parks during the year you must opt for the year long pass. It has paid dividends for me time and time again. The American the Beautiful pass is $80, lasts for an entire year and has unlimited park access. Grab yours here. 

How to Get There

Unfortunately, I think there is a reason why North Cascades National Park is continually one of the least visited of the US National Parks, and its location, location, location. As with most parks, driving is 100% necessary and there is also a fair bit of commuting while you are visiting this park as well. But I promise the juice is worth the squeeze!

• Seattle/Tacoma Airport (SEA) ~ 2.5 hours
• Paine Field (PAE) ~ 2 hours.
• Portland, OR Airport (PDX) ~ 5 hours
• Vancouver, BC (YVR) ~ 2.5 hours

Where to Stay

In my opinion, the best place to stay (if you want to camp) is at Colonial Creek Campground. These campsites are fairly “central” in the park, so your commute whether to the east or west won’t be too excessive. If you would rather stay somewhere with running water (me), you’ll end up sacrificing shorter drive times for hot showers. Here are a couple of spots in and around the park to stay. The good news is, if you plan early you will have access to a plethora of choices.

Ross Lake Resort

• Prices and sleeping arrangements vary by cabin.
• You may have seen this spot on social media, and for good reason! Ross Lake Resort hosts a myriad of different sized cabins set directly on the teal water of Ross Lake. The cabins on the lake are lottery style only, meaning you put your information and preferred dates into their system and they let you know if you have won the lottery. Alternatively, Ross Lake Resort has campsites available and you can access their grounds for day use as well. Make sure you read their detailed instructions on how to get to the resort, spoiler alert you can’t drive to it.

Peaceful Forest Cabin, Winthrop

• ~$250/night. Sleeps 4-6.
• I am a little biased, because I stayed in this sweet cabin during my time in the North Cascades. The host was gracious and attentive, the cabin felt *woodsy* while still ensuring you wouldn’t be attacked by a bear or serial killer (the fear of every millennial). Additionally, if you happen to run out of, let’s say, beer? Driving to the town of Winthrop is no biggie.

Skagit Riverhouse Retreat

• ~$530/night. Sleeps 4.
• This lovely Airbnb sits 15 minutes west of the park entrance. Making it easy access for hikes that begin near the visitors center (looking at you Cascade Pass). The bonus part of this beautifully designed house is that it is dog friendly and directly on the river. After a long day of hiking and exploring, you can sit on the patio and watch the river run by or around the fire pit with your pals reminiscing on the day.

Camping

If you have ever camped in the Pacific Northwest, you will know it is a cutthroat and competitive process for campsite reservations. If you are wanting to camp in this spectacular national park, bring your fastest clicking fingers to snag a site. However, many campgrounds leave access for first come, first serve sites as well. Here are the campground options in NCNP:

• Goodell Creek Campground: 18 sites with 2 large group sites. Right next to the Skagit River

• Colonial Creek Campground: two grounds on either side of the bridge that divides Diablo Lake. There is a total of around 120 sites, but its a hot spot being next to the lake, so plan accordingly!

• Gorge Lake Campground: only 8 sites right on the Skagit River.

• Newhalem Creek Campground: 107 sites located right next to Newhalem, just past the visitor center of the park.

Hiking Overview

North Cascades spans 788 square miles and is the largest of the 3 national parks that are in Washington. From short and sweet to long and rewarding there is a hike here for everyone. As always stop by the visitors center for tips from the rangers, a NCNP sticker (a must) and to play around with their light up, topographical map of the Cascade Mountain Range (I loved it!).

Quickies

• Sterling Munro Boardwalk: a short 0.3 mile stroll behind the visitors center to a stunning mountain view. The walk will take less than 5 minutes and is well worth your stop.

• Trail of Cedars: 0.6 mile walk near the river, includes educational signs, magnificent trees, a suspension bridge and stunning river views. Perfect for the whole family!

• Ladder Creek Falls: 0.5 miles around a powerhouse that includes lovely gardens, bridge access and waterfall to top it all off.

• Gorge Creek Falls: see below for drivable viewpoints to check out these falls. Take the 0.5 mile walk from the parking lot to see the real pièce de résistance: the views of the lake.

Mediums

• Blue Lake: 4.6 miles, 900 feet of elevation gain. The hike ends epically with a crystal clear lake mirroring the mountain views. Bring bug spray if you want to hang out near the lake!

• Diablo Lake Trail: 7.6 miles, 1500 feet of elevation gain. Who can resist a medium hike with peek-a-boo lake views throughout? Not this gal.

• Pyramid Lake: 4.2 miles, 1500 feet of elevation gain, a steep and clear hike ending in a small lake. If you are looking for peace and quiet this trail is slightly less busy during the peak summer months.

• Maple Pass to Lake Ann: 7.4 miles, 2200 feet of elevation gain. I recognize those stats don’t scream easy, but this is a quick, not technical, extremely rewarding hike with forest and lake views.

Toughies

• Cascade Pass+ Sahale Arm: 11.5 miles and 4000 feet of elevation gain. A challenging hike with big efforts and big payoffs. This path includes mountain goats, bears (potentially!), forest pathways, rock scrambling, alpine lakes and incredible mountain views. Don’t be too intimidated by the mileage or elevation, there are multiple opportunities to call it a day while still experiencing the hike. If you aren’t ready to conquer the Sahale Arm turn back at the Cascade Pass Viewpoint or near Doubtful Lake. If you are ready for a real challenge continue the trail up the Sahale Arm for *peak* views of the peaks.

• Hidden Lake Lookout: 8.8 miles and 3750 feet of elevation gain. Described by many as a bucket list trail and a favorite of many PNW-ers, you won’t regret completing this hike. Ending with incredible views at a fire lookout. Make sure to plan your drive in advance, the road is easy to miss and if driving a low clearance vehicle- drive slowly!

Don’t Miss Viewpoints

• Gorge Creek Falls: easily accessible from highway 20.
• Ross Lake Overlook: you really can’t get enough views of these aquamarine colored lakes.
• Washington Pass Observation Site: your jaw will be on the ground looking at the mountains from this viewpoint. Keep on your Birkenstocks, this an easy paved pathway to traverse.
• Diablo Lake Vista Point: have I made it clear that you should do everything you can to see these lakes? Don’t skip this one!

Lakes

You would be remiss to not spend an afternoon at Diablo Lake or Ross Lake enjoying the sun and aquamarine water. My recommendation would be to bring SUPs, kayaks or canoes along to full enjoy the lakes. Drive either to Thunder Knob Trailhead or Colonial Creek Campgrounds and set up along the shore for your lake day. Don’t be surprised if the water is just a little chilly, but it is well worth it paddle, swim or float along the lake.

If visiting Ross Lake, make sure to read their “getting here page” on their website so you are well informed!

Cycling

There are a few great cycling routes for enthusiasts in the park. Of course as with any adventure make sure you are well prepared with water, snacks, flat tire kit and spare tube as services in the park are limited.

• North Cascades Highway (state route 20)
• Stehekin Valley Road
• Cascade River Road

Hot Tips

Car Time

Anticipate spending a bit of time in the car! From our place between Winthrop and Mazama to the Cascade Pass trailhead was about 3 hours. Highway 20 (that runs through the park) is a 2 lane, very windy mountain pass. The mileage was short, but the nature of the highway doesn’t allow it to be traveled quickly.

Additionally, in the case of our trek to Cascade Pass, the 23 mile road up to the trailhead takes about an hour itself. This resulted in an early morning and long trek back after a long day of hiking. My best recommendation would be calling the visitor center before booking a stay to fully understand the drive time to your chosen hikes and potential accommodations. If you don’t mind beautiful, scenic drives then you are in luck there are plenty of those.

Maps

The largest challenge of planning a trip to NCNP, is doing the actual planning of routes. Highway 20, which is the highway that is the through line of the entire park closes due to snow from about November – May. Well, google maps will not route you down a highway when its closed, so it can be a little difficult when trying to plan during the off season and get an accurate idea of distance and time.

My best recommendation is to plan in advance, read the NPS website, chat with the NCNP visitor center OR ask me! Shoot me and email and let’s chat all things NCNP in the off season. I would love to be a resource for you.

Gas

Be advised there is no gas inside the park. The final gas station is the Chevron in Marblemount until you get to the other side of the park (about 2 hours) and have access to the town of Winthrop. Drive safely and fill up early and often!

The Bottom Line

Do whatever you can to spend time in this stunning park. The teal lakes and their viewpoints are enough to make me want to go again. Throw in the spectacular hikes like Cascade Pass and you’ll be forgetting that you spent an hour on a gravel road to get to the trailhead.

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If you’ve read my Epic 2-Week Southwest National Parks Road Trip Itinerary, you know that during the pandemic my two besties (fellow healthcare workers) and I were desperate to escape the hospital grind. So, we packed up and spent two weeks hitting six national parks.

It was epic, six parks, two weeks, a dance party on the salt flats, and even a surprise state park stop (shout out Dead Horse Point State Park, epic hiking, terrible name). We came home exhausted, proud, and ready for more.

With PTO still burning a hole in our pockets, we decided to run it back. This time, our goal was to road trip from Texas to Arizona, covering five national parks in just under two weeks. If you’re looking for a manageable but adventure-filled itinerary, here’s how we did it.

Days 1–4: El Paso & Big Bend National Park

Fly into: El Paso, Texas
Drive to: Big Bend National Park (~4 hours)

From Portland, we flew into El Paso, picked up our rental car, and drove to Big Bend National Park.

With over 800,000 acres, Big Bend is spread out, but worth every mile. We stayed in an Airbnb in Alpine Texas, which put us about a 2 hour drive away from the park each day. While the drive was brutal, we were too late in trying get camping spots in the park and had the added difficulty of deciding if we were going to camp everywhere or no where.

Regardless of our haphazard living situation the park was absolutely stunning. The mountains were so impressive, the desert setting was barren yet full of life. Unfortunately, there was a small fire in Big Bend while we were there. This made most hikes near the Chisos Mountain unavailable to us. If I ever go back the Window Trail would be top of my list. Other highlights include:

• Hiking trails with stunning desert and mountain views
  
• Santa Elena Canyon, where you can stand with one foot in the U.S. and one in Mexico
  
• Balanced rock on the Grapevine Hill Trail
  
• Some of the darkest skies in the country for stargazing
  

Hot Tips

• I will say, one of my least favorite hikes I have ever been on was at Big Bend National Park. Because the fire had made some hikes inaccessible we ended up on the Marufo Vega Trail. To be completely honest, it was unnecessarily long, had some unexpected boulder climbing and full exposure on the entire trail. And! The view that was the payoff was lack luster. We ended up drinking warm Truly Seltzers during the last mile because we were sunburned and out of water, yikes. So yes, I will say partial fault on the hikers (us) for not picking a better trail or packing for 6 hours in the Texas heat.

• Stop in Marfa, Texas on your way in or out of Big Bend. This quirky, artsy desert town is worth at least a few hours (or even an overnight stay). We loved it so much we visited twice. If you want more info on Marfa check out my guide here. 

• If you are driving into Big Bend National Park everyday, like we did, make sure to stop at V6 Coffee in Marathon, Texas to fuel your drive. You won’t regret it!

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Days 5–8: Carlsbad, Guadalupe Mountains & Carlsbad Caverns

Drive to: Carlsbad, New Mexico (~4 hours)

Carlsbad makes a perfect home base for two national parks: Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns. There are plenty of restaurants and grocery stores so you can set up camp in this small town with ease.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

We spent two separate days hiking in Guadalupe Mountains. Only about 45 minutes from where we stationed ourself in Carlsbad was the park entrance. This park is home to the highest point in Texas Guadalupe Peak (8,751 feet) and this hike was a “must-do” on our list.

While summiting a mountain sounds intimidating on paper, this “mountain” is a big bang for your buck. While it was challenging it wasn’t impossible. Technically the trail is a piece of cake with some narrow, rocky bits leading to the summit. This doable hike gains only 3,000 feet and is totally worth it to say you have stood at the highest point in Texas.

Other hiking highlights include Devil’s Hall Trail which you should accomplish for the name alone.

Someone: “What did you do in Texas?”

Me/You: “Well, I went to the highest point in Texas and survived the Devil’s Hall”.

Sounds pretty bad ass to me.

In Devil’s Hall Trail be prepared for a bit of boulder climbing and in general walking on uneven rock for a majority of the trail. We also met so many new friends on this hike and enjoyed chatting and drinking trail beers right outside of the Devil’s Hall.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

After summiting Guadalupe Peak, give your legs a break and head underground at Carlsbad Caverns for a change of pace. This labyrinth of 119 caves was formed 4–6 million years ago when hydrogen-sulfide rich waters, while migrating through the limestone mixed with rain water and formed sulfuric acid, dissolving the stone through cracks and folds. And there folks, is your science lesson for the day.

The TLDR is a jaw-dropping underground world of stalactites and stalagmites. You do have to walk down a series of windy switchbacks to get to the cave entrance but once inside you follow a paved, railed pathway throughout the caverns. While there is plenty of light around the caves, especially lighting up the more significant structures in the cave, still parts are dark and moody.

Plan to spend at a minimum of 45 minutes in the caverns but possibly up to a couple of hours. There aren’t any bathrooms until to the end so plan accordingly! Also make sure to reserve your ticket in advance, this is a timed and ticket mandatory situation.

Days 9–10: White Sands National Park

Drive to: Las Cruces, NM (~3 hours) or El Paso (~2 hours, 40 minutes)

Your next stop is the dazzling White Sands National Park. Don’t confuse it with Great Sand Dunes in Colorado, this park is its own surreal experience. Exploring the park is quick and easy and only requires a few hours at minimum.

Drive the 8-mile Dunes Scenic Drive through the gypsum sand fields, then pull over, walk out into the dunes, and soak it all in. It’s the perfect place for photos, exploring, or even a dance party in the dunes. (trust me, you’ll want to and there is enough park for everyone to jam out in peace). If you are feeling adventurous you can rent sand sleds at the visitors center and take them out to the dunes and sled down snows much hotter cousin.

If you want to do more than dance in the dunes and the scenic drive there are a number of great hikes in the park that get you up close and personal with the variety of plants and surroundings of the area. Here are some I would recommend:

1. Dune Life Nature Trail: great for families!
2. Playa Trail
3. Alkali Flat Trail

Safety Tips for White Sands: its very easy to become disoriented on directions when out exploring the dunes so be cautious and follow these instructions. 

• Bring plenty of water and salty snacks
• Download offline maps and pin your parking spot
• Stick with your group
• Wear sunscreen and pack a first aid kit
• Let someone know where you will be that day and what time you will check in.
  

Days 10–11: Tucson & Saguaro National Park

Drive to: Tucson, Arizona (~4 hours)

For your final stop, head to Tucson to explore Saguaro National Park, home to the iconic giant cacti. Notably, the pronunciation of this cactus is Sa-Woh-Ro, no G sounds at all. The Saguaro cactus only grows in certain parts in the United States, so to see an entire park full of these impressive cacti is a real treat.

Now for a new segment on the show, Cactus Facts ! The Saguaro cactus is actually such an anomaly, we learned all these facts while stopping by the visitor center. The Saguaro cactus only grows a few inches in the first 10 years of their life and only starts to sprout arms when upwards of 60 years old.

You can estimate a cacti’s age around the park just by looking at its height and arm distribution. Additionally, a Saguaro will grow under a nurse tree, that literally nurses the cactus, providing protection from extreme weather. As the cactus continues to grow over time, the nurse tree will usually die ! So rude of the cactus, but tis the circle of life.

Flowering season starts in April and a Saguaro that is at least 35 years old will flower during that time. The pleats on the cactus help expand and contract the structure of the Saguaro when it is either very rainy and it needs to store water (expand) or very dry and it is using all its water (contract). Crazy!

We loved driving the scenic loop at Saguaro National Park and hiking the trails. When you visit check out the Ridge View Trail or the Mica Trail for cacti viewing. Afterward, treat yourself to some incredible Tucson eats, check out 5 Points Market or El Taco Rustico for local favorites.

Tucson itself is a fun city with plenty of food and culture, and the park being next door makes it an ideal final stop for a National Park road trip.

The Bottom Line

What made this itinerary so great is how different each park felt. From desert canyons to caves, gypsum dunes to cactus forests, every stop was its own adventure. You could easily stretch this into a longer trip if you want more time at each park, but even in under two weeks it felt doable and unforgettable.

If you liked this itinerary, check out my 2-Week Southwest National Park Road Trip or my guides on Death Valley National Park or Mesa Verde National Park.

As always, feel free to reach out with questions, and remember, when you’re out on the trail, leave no trace.

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The post A National Park Road Trip: 5 Parks in 12 Days. appeared first on Update Later Travel.

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The Covid years. What a blur. A blackout. What even happened? Looking back, it feels surreal that we were all trapped inside for months and even stranger that I worked as a nurse during a global pandemic. Between the constantly changing hospital environment, hearing horror stories from the ER, and sanitizing everything in sight, it was… a lot. Needless to say, I’m thrilled those days are behind us.

But there was one silver lining: the forced slowdown. No hustle culture, no packed social calendars, no big trips abroad. Travel shifted inward. 2020 was supposed to be the year I went to Patagonia with two coworkers-turned-besties. Instead, we pivoted and created our own Southwest National Parks road trip. Just us, a car, wide open roads, and the best of America’s landscapes.

Now that life has resumed, it’s tempting to skip straight to the Amalfi Coast or Bali. But I’m here to encourage you: carve out two weeks to explore the National Parks of the American Southwest. Whether you summit a mountain or roll down scenic highways, this itinerary has a bit of everything.

Here’s exactly how we pulled off 6 National Parks + 2 bonus stops in 14 days.

Days 1–4: Las Vegas & Death Valley National Park

• Fly into: Las Vegas, Nevada
  
• Drive to: Death Valley National Park (~2 hours)
  

Death Valley covers a staggering 3.4 million acres, with landscapes ranging from sand dunes to salt flats. In November, we lucked out with 80-degree days but camping is limited due to the soaring temperatures throughout the year. While you could easily spend a week exploring Death Valley, I recommend a minimum of 3 days.

Not only is Death Valley a huge park, but the spread out nature of the hikes and activities make for a lot of time in the car. Additionally, if you are staying in Beatty, Nevada, for example, you’ll spend about an hour commuting from where you enter the park to different destinations within. If you want to read up on what sights I’m talking about that are so far apart, check out my full guide here.

Days 4–6: Grand Canyon National Park

• Drive: Death Valley → Grand Canyon (~6 hours)
  
• Alternative: Break it up by overnighting in Vegas (2 hours + 4 hours)
  

You can shorten this itinerary if you are willing to drive 6 hours to the Grand Canyon from Death Valley National Park. Spend the rest of that day doing the scenic drive around the park, watching sunset along the rim and preparing for any hiking you may do. Otherwise you can opt to split the drive up by spending one night in Las Vegas in between. That is what we did! Granted we had to swing by the airport to swoop another friend, but alas we had a lovely time at Bellagio watching the famous fountain from our room and eating tacos at a restaurant off the strip.

For the Grand Canyon visit itself, two days is plenty to enjoy rim lookouts, scenic drives, and one full day for a big hike into the canyon. If you are feeling brave try the rim-to river-to rim hike of South Kaibob to Bright Angel.

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Day 6–7: Petrified Forest National Park

• Drive: Grand Canyon → Petrified Forest (~3 hours)
  
• Continue to: Gallup, NM (~1 hour) or Cortez, CO (~3 hours)
  

On your way, stop in Flagstaff for coffee and some house-hunting daydreams (trust me, it’s charming and we kept saying “I could totally live here” while browsing Redfin). Petrified Forest is small and can be seen in just a few hours. Learn how ancient wood turned to stone through flooding and science.

If you’re tired, crash in Gallup. If you’ve got the stamina, push on to Cortez which will put you closer to the next park.

Day 7: Mesa Verde National Park

• Drive: Gallup → Mesa Verde (~3 hours)
  
• Afterward: Mesa Verde → Moab, Utah (~2.5 hours)
  

Mesa Verde is one of the most underrated parks. Ancient Pueblo cliff dwellings, petroglyphs, and scenic trails make it unforgettable. If you want to read more about Mesa Verde or find inspiration for a visit, check out my full Mesa Verde National Park Guide.

During our one day visit here we managed two hikes, a scenic drive and a couple of viewpoints all before continuing our drive to the next park. While you could spend 2 days seeing every corner of Mesa Verde, a half-day is enough before heading to Moab.

Days 8–12: Moab (Arches, Canyonlands, Dead Horse Point)

Finally, a chance to unpack! Moab is the base for three incredible parks:

• Arches National Park — home to over 2,000 natural arches
  
• Canyonlands National Park — vast canyons and mesas carved by the Colorado River
  
• Dead Horse Point State Park — not a National Park, but worth it for sweeping views
  

You could spend four full days in just one of these parks, but with 4–5 days total you’ll get a solid mix of highlights and hikes. For me the time spent in Arches was unforgettable. It was snowing a bit while I listened to “Delicate” by Taylor Swift while staring at Delicate Arch. A little on the nose, I know.

But the best hike in Arches National Park is the Devil’s Garden. It takes you past Landscape Arch which is one of the most impressive arches (and will probably cease to exist one day) and allows to you visit 8 or so arches on one hike.

Canyonlands National Park is quite vast, if you have time, extend your stay in Moab to properly visit this park. The park is divided into three sections: Island in the Sky, The Maze and The Needles.

To visit the Maze District you will need a car with high clearance and 4-wheel drive. Island in the Sky has some quick and easy hikes if you aren’t up for some of the more challenging bits in The Needles and The Maze. Check out Mesa Arch Trail, Upheaval Dome and White Rim Overlook Trail if you want something fast and easy.

The “must-do” hike in Dead Horse Point State Park is a the east and west rim loop trail which has you circle the river, following cairns and having majestic views the whole way.

Days 12–13: Capitol Reef National Park

• Drive: Moab → Capitol Reef (~2 hours)

Capitol Reef is an underrated beauty. From the moment you pass into the park to the sunset viewpoints and all the hikes in between your jaw will be on the floor. I was so enamored with the all of the red rock and the color gradients that defined the space around the park.

It felt like I was driving through Radiator Springs while we did the 7 mile scenic drive and our hike up to Cassidy Arch was picturesque. I hope to return to Capitol Reef and continue to explore everything this park has to offer!

Ready to Explore? Book Here ↓

Days 13–14: Bonneville Salt Flats & Salt Lake City

• Drive: Capitol Reef → Salt Lake City (~3.5 hours)
  
• Detour: Bonneville Salt Flats (~1.5 hours outside SLC)
  

Unfortunately, the end of our roadtrip is near, but there is still one left sight to see before returning your rental car and flying home from the Salt Lake City Airport. About 1.5 hours outside of SLC is an absolute stunner of a spot, the Bonneville Salt Flats.

Over 300,000 acres of white, crusted salt from less than 1 inch thick to 5 feet deep, there is no end in sight. Drive out onto the flats, take photos, and yes, you’ll probably bring some salt home on your shoes.

Add Ons

If you are wondering why the heck this itinerary didn’t include Zion National Park, at the time one of the friends I was with had just recently visited. So we opted for smaller parks than adding Zion to our itinerary. But because you are in the area, here are a couple of options you could swap in, or add on to this itinerary. 

Antelope Canyon

If you are able to snag a permit/ticket for a guided tour through Antelope Canyon, it is conveniently located just 1.5 hours away from the Grand Canyon and could be a great add on or day trip option. Due to its location in the Navajo Nation, a guide is REQUIRED to visit these famous slot canyons. 

Zion National Park 

After visiting Capitol Reef National Park you could deviate west instead of North and visit the famous Zion National Park. Hiking the intense Angels Landing or wading through The Narrows are just a couple of amazing options while visiting the park. It is about 3 hours driving from Capitol Reef and if you stayed near Zion for a couple days, you could opt to drive the 2 hours back to Vegas and return your car/fly out of where you started! 

The Bottom Line

This two-week itinerary was the best road trip I’ve ever taken. Six National Parks, jaw-dropping landscapes, and a reminder that adventure doesn’t always mean hopping on a plane overseas. If you’re planning your own Southwest National Parks road trip, I hope this guide helps you hit the highlights.

Happy hiking, and let me know if you have questions while planning.

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