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I have been to Rome 3 separate times in my adulthood. As a poor 20-year-old in college, staying at Happy Days Hostel Roma (lol) and eating in main squares (like a dummy). Again in my late 20s, as a more classy individual who actually explored the city out of the historic center. And now, mid 30s at age 29, I feel like I REALLY have a grasp on the city. Not just the historical sights, and I certainly have a handle on Roman food, but now I understand how the city works, its shape, its neighborhoods and how to navigate it like a local.
I’m happy to share with you now everything I’ve learned from my trips to Rome so that you can make informed decisions about where to stay and most importantly where to spend your time when you’re between the sights.




Overview
Rome is divided a couple different ways. The first is: inside the city walls vs outside the city walls. The Aurelian walls were built between 270 and 275 AD and are some of the best preserved historical city walls in the world.
Another way to navigate around Rome is with the river Tiber. The west side of the river is home to the Vatican and the neighborhood Trastevere (which technically are not within the city walls but are still grouped amongst the “ancient Roman sites”), amongst other things. Meanwhile, the east side of the river houses most of the historical monuments and sights.
Rome is known as the city of 7 hills and for context, every hill is on the east side of the river. So while visiting Rome you can use this guide to keep track of where you are in the city within the context of other spots.



A Note About Accommodations:
Please note: prices listed are estimates based on rates at the time this guide was prepared. They may fluctuate depending on season, demand, and availability, so always check current pricing before booking
Whenever possible, I recommend booking directly through the hotel’s website, this often makes it easier to resolve any issues and ensures the best support. However, if you have loyalty points with a third-party platform (e.g., Hotels.com, Booking.com), booking through them can be worthwhile for perks, upgrades, or rewards.
Trastevere
Now, please don’t be like me and embarrass yourself with the pronunciation on this one. Say it with me: trust-ever-ay. Not trass-ta-veer, like I have been saying for the last decade.
This is the nightlife hub and foodie neighborhood in the city. Located just south of Vatican on the west side of the river there is always something going on within the picturesque streets and alleyways. If you’re visiting in the off season, I would stay here because you will still find the neighborhood to be quite lively. And if the Vatican is on your list (which, let’s be real, it should be), don’t miss my breakdown of the Key Master Tour at the Vatican Museums for a behind-the-scenes look at this iconic spot.
Where to Stay in Trastevere
- Very Nice: Donna Camilla Savelli Roma ~ $350/night.
- Mid-Range: Horti 14 Borgo ~ $220/night.
- Budget: Hotel Trastevere ~$150/night.
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Monti
This neighborhood is my new favorite. But don’t judge it for its label as the “hipster” neighborhood. Similar to Trastevere, it is full of gorgeous buildings covered in delicate green vines. It has a close proximity to the shopping district of Via del Corso and to the Colosseum and Palatine Hill. But the best part of this neighborhood is grabbing a drink in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and admiring the views of the Colosseum from afar while brushing shoulders with the locals. And if you’re planning a bigger Italy trip, I also have a full Trieste itinerary that makes a great pairing with a few days in Rome.
Where to Stay in Monti
- Very Nice: 15 Keys Hotel Rome ~$350/night.
- Mid-Range: Double Tree Rome Monti ~$250/night.
- Budget: Manin Suites Rome ~ $150/night.



Historic Center
If it’s your first time in Rome, the historic center is the obvious choice. You’ll be steps from the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps. From here, you can walk almost anywhere, including the Vatican and Villa Borghese. It’s busy, sure, but there’s nothing like being surrounded by centuries of history (and about 130 churches). In this scenario, a neighborhood catered towards tourists is a good thing and this is an obvious choice for any first-timer to Rome.
Hotels in the Historic Center:
- Very Nice: Palazzo Roma ~ $550/night
- Mid-Range: CitizenM ~ $200/night
- Budget: Hotel Trevi Palace ~ $150/night





Aventine Hill
This is the bougie side of Rome, where apartments cost millions but the streets are calm and leafy. It’s peaceful, tourist-free, and offers some of the best views in the city. Staying here puts you close to the famous Aventine Keyhole (a peek at St. Peter’s through a garden gate) and the Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden). Despite the high cost living here, there are a number of well priced accommodations. While the views from Aventine Hill are unbeatable, be aware that transportation to the historic center will take about 15 minutes by car or about 30 minutes on foot.
Hotels on Aventine Hill:
- Very Nice: Rhinoceros Roma ~ $700/night
- Mid-Range: Seven Suites ~ $240/night
- Budget: Hotel Villa San Pio ~ $175/night



Testaccio
Across the river from Trastevere, Testaccio is where foodies should go. Still under the radar for many tourists, it’s home to a thriving market, authentic Roman trattorias, and piazzas where locals gather late into the night. This is the neighborhood for Cacio e Pepe, Supplì, and evenings that feel like real Rome rather than tourist Rome. Similar to Aventine Hill, because you are outside of the Historic Center you will be a short drive or a long walk away from the big spots in Rome. But what you lose in convenience you gain in less lines, more authenticity and beautiful sights that are off the beaten path.
Hotels in Testaccio:
- Very Nice: Romac San Saba ~ $700/night
- Mid-Range: Vespucci Palace Roma ~ $300/night
- Budget: Roma Suite Piramide ~ $150/night





The Bottom Line
Rome is so much more than its monuments. Where you stay shapes your trip just as much as what you see. Whether you’re sipping wine in Trastevere, people-watching in Monti, or indulging in pasta in Testaccio, each neighborhood has its own flavor. Choose the one that matches your travel style, and don’t forget to order another gelato on your way back to the hotel.
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